Support Group/Thread For Mod Addiction or MA

littleblazer said:
Competitor Name Competitor Part
BOSCH P3730
DEFENSE DC031
GENERAL MOTORS 52473340
HASTINGS AFC1114
KLEENER CAF1707
KLEENER CAF7707
PRONTO PC-5388
PUROLATOR C15388
SERVICE PRO MC15388
STP CAF7707
WIX 24805
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Wow way to go above and beyond Paul, much appreciated brother[emoji4]
 
Sparky said:
07+ GMT900 1/2 ton trucks actually use a coilover front shock similar to the GMT360 which is quite nice. Rides better than torsion bars too. 3/4 ton and higher use the torsion bars still because they are stronger but for a 1/2 ton the coils work great.

The level spacer goes between the lower control arm and the bottom of the shock. There is enough flex left in the suspension that the spacer won't over stress the CV axles. It is 1" tall but because of the suspension geometry it results in an almost 2" lift.

I'd really like the 4" CST suspension lift but that's really expensive.
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Oh haha what a blatant generalization I made in my mind, I just assumed the t-bars kept going. From what I've seen 03-07 classic 2wd trucks use springs too but the 4wd counterparts use t-bars. My buds 04 silverado has springs.

-pretty sure our 03 (2wd) had springs as well because I never noticed bars under it.
 
:rotfl:
 
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I sure do miss my Kon
 
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Were you fellow mod junkies aware that there are endoscopes that are Mini USB and USB powered? And they're of great quality too. Film in 720p & 1080p and capture stills of coarse. I think I'm gonna get a Mini USB version to use for the rig, that way I can just use my phone to view instead of my computer. The Mini USB version length runs 2m, that's plenty. Regular USB versions can be up to 10m from what I've seen so far. Figured I'd give y'all knowledge of this considering how cheap they are (less than $15) and I'm sure you guys can think of ways to use it.
 
I've seen dogfish aka chrisfix religiously use one on his YouTube channel to inspect combustion chambers, seems to do an exceptional job for the price. If I ever need one it'd be what I would get instead of the high price ones that most people think of.
 
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:undecided: I found a 2M one for $27, and a 1M one for $15. Pretty interesting, I definitely coulda used this when fishing for my IAT sensor that fell into the engine bay. Still have no clue where that lil funky bastard went! :mad: Could make it easier to check for fluid leaks, and to spot bolts that are hidden from view (intake manifold ones come to mind) when doing maintenance.

I saw one of the regular USB ones came with a little screw-on mirror to see at right angles. That would be nice to have if you wanted to inspect wires in a rubber boot for any obvious damage like melted or damaged insulation and stuff with less tear-down. :yes:

Damnnit Aaron, now I want one too!
 
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Blckshdw said:
:undecided: I found a 2M one for $27, and a 1M one for $15. Pretty interesting, I definitely coulda used this when fishing for my IAT sensor that fell into the engine bay. Still have no clue where that lil funky bastard went! :mad: Could make it easier to check for fluid leaks, and to spot bolts that are hidden from view (intake manifold ones come to mind) when doing maintenance.

I saw one of the regular USB ones came with a little screw-on mirror to see at right angles. That would be nice to have if you wanted to inspect wires in a rubber boot for any obvious damage like melted or damaged insulation and stuff with less tear-down. :yes:

Damnnit Aaron, now I want one too!
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Yeah I agree, would be highly useful for all that Carlton. I saw the ones with the different attachments, would for sure get one that included them.

Yeesssss buy another Carlton, buy, buy, buy [emoji23] [emoji23]
 
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Mounce said:
Oh haha what a blatant generalization I made in my mind, I just assumed the t-bars kept going. From what I've seen 03-07 classic 2wd trucks use springs too but the 4wd counterparts use t-bars. My buds 04 silverado has springs.

-pretty sure our 03 (2wd) had springs as well because I never noticed bars under it.
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Did I ever tell you the escalade has torsion bars too?
 
Me thinks it's time for the big three. [emoji1]
 
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One of these days I will do that. Can't hurt
 
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I don't think it can hurt either. I have some 4awg from a previous project and I don't think it'll break the bank anyway. 10$ in lugs and a post adapter at the most.
 
littleblazer said:
Me thinks it's time for the big three. [emoji1]
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I did one of them the other day. I am planning to do the other 2 wires soon. I'm getting this welding wire from work. It is very nice.

uploadfromtaptalk1443294408858.jpg

I'm going to add another wire from this point to the frame as well, and then new wire to the alternator and battery ground. I'm also going to add a ground wire from the body to the frame in the back as well.
uploadfromtaptalk1443294436103.jpg
 
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Does beefing up the grounding help with the light dimming when rolling the windows up? I have never had the lights dim when rolling the window up on any vehicle before. Mine dim so much that i can hit the drivers window up to signal that it is ok for the person passing me to merge over in front of me instead of flashing the high beams.
 
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It can, yeah. If they're dimming that bad I'd also have your battery and alt load tested. I can hit all four window buttons and it doesn't dim that bad.
 
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Had the battery load tested when i purchased the envoy last year. It was only putting out three hundred amps. Dealership replaced the battery when i requested it. Planned on taking the alternator in to be load tested when i get around to replacing the thermostat.
 
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Well, it seems like every time I get fired up to get back on my retro, some other mod pops up with higher importance. Battery here, LEDs there, IAT sensor somewhere yet to be found...

With the weakened battery, one of the first things I noticed is the power folding mirrors operate REALLY slowly when the alternator isn't running (park and shut down). Got to the point I just left them stock, or would trip the kill switch when parking before I shut the engine off. And even with it running, operating the mirrors via the mirror switch would sometimes be slow too, or one of them wouldn't go all the way. Simply not enough current making it's way through the system.

SOOO, it's time to rewire the door functionality. Definitely time to pull power from somewhere else and not drive it with what's leftover by the mirror switch. Been sketching out some ideas, and think I have one that should work with components I already have at home. Maybe if it goes well, I'll be in a good enough mood to make a full schematic. :undecided:

I'm also considering moving the kill switch. Having it in the center console seemed like a great idea at the time, but I think I'd prefer it in a more convenient location. Headlight switch makes the most sense, also thinking overhead console.

In some other random news, had a revelation last night after putting my soldering station away. The hot air gun will be perfect for heat shrinking wires!! No more having to find a Bic lighter, or trying to use the big heat gun. :celebrate:
 
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Got my husky liners sent back due to the edges curling, but luckily they have a lifetime warranty. Be nice to have some new ones after the abuse mine have taken.
 
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We use the little heat blower from our solder station at work for heat shrink all the time.
 
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Well providing I get paid on Tuesday as planned the C10 will be getting some goodies... Considering the same Walmart led panel I had in the old k3500...might see if I can find some twistlocks to do an led retrofit to the cluster as well providing I can find the ones I had here for the k3500.
 
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Need to get ahold of my transmission guy today and see how the progress is on that, 5 pinion planetaries, hardened sunshell, clutchpack upgrade, corvette servos, firmed up shifts, trans cooler. All stuff well beyond my comfort level to do. Should tow well when done and handle oversized tires too.
 
I found a deal on a 50' Kinetic Rope i know I do not really need, but I think I must buy it cause the deal is too good and I "may" be able to use it once or twice.
 
Getting closer to ordering that inverter...
 
My reverse camera arrived for the truck. Now just to get time to install the head unit and the camera.
 
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I keep thinking I should get a reverse camera to play with. Typically have a spotter on a trail, but could be handy if out solo.
 
I spent a good bit of time trying to de-pin/re-pin a dual bosch relay socket last night. Wanted to change the wire colors to better coincide with how I want them connected to the mirror switch outputs and power folding logic relay. First pin I tried to press and pull, the crimp gave way and the wire came out. Didn't seem to take much force either. So resorted to pressing and pushing from the top for the rest.

Will get back into the truck maybe this evening with the socket and do some test fitting to see which leads need to be shortened, by how much, and what ground point I want to use. Should also take that time to figure out where I want to relocate the kill switch to.

HARDTRAILZ said:
I keep thinking I should get a reverse camera to play with. Typically have a spotter on a trail, but could be handy if out solo.
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I think you should too. I like having mine in the trailer hitch receiver, since I don't tow anything, lets me know if something is behind me since visibility is terrible out of the back window, especially when the 3rd row seats are up.

Where are you considering mounting yours?
 
I've never really cared for one previously but now with the pickup and having over 6 feet of truck behind the rear window I thought it would be a really helpful thing, particularly in tight spaces. Plus if I ever tow anything it'll be easier to line up the hitch.
 
I would likely need it offset next to the hitch since I tow weekly, but I am also redo'ing the jerry can setup for 2 cans and maybe a small basket so I might be able to do something there, esp if i relocate the plate again.
 
Yeah I'm a little on the fence about the whole touch screen deal. I guess we'll see how well it works out.

At least the one I got has a physical volume knob so that's good. My parents' new Trax uses the touchscreen for the volume control and it is a little annoying IMO.
 
I am hopefully upgrading the Alpine to a double din touch Kenwood so I should be able to have a camera.
 
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