LED Mod Thread

Yeah, I think they are triggered at 35 degrees or something like that. I used a piece of double sided tape to stick it on the underside of the hood.

That would be pretty cool to have some aux lighting come on automatically when wheeling at night when you hit a certain pitch. :undecided:
 
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mcsteven said:
OTHER NOTE - for those who have replaced both map and vanity mirror lamps with LEDs. Mine does this (below). Does yours? Do you know of any fixes?

When I had the regular bulbs in the mirrors, I would click on one map light and it would do the "low power" mode. Open the mirror and it would make the map light go to full power mode. With LEDs in both, same low power mode in the map light, but when I open the mirror, it also is dim. It won't brighten the map light. I turn off the map light, the mirror goes to full power. No matter what order, it is the same thing. I can have all 4 maps lights on, it's the same thing. The map lights now won't go to full bright unless I turn the switch for panel brightness, lock/unlock with the remote, or open the door, at which point they all come on. At that point the mirror lamps also come on at full brightness.
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I never tried that when I had halogen bulbs but I do know that with LEDs in the vanities there is a bug or two. IIRC if I open a mirror with a map light on, the map light turns off. I can't remember who I was talking with about this but we were talking about putting a dummy load on the mirror circuit to simulate the load of the halogen bulbs.
 
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Blckshdw said:
Yeah, I think they are triggered at 35 degrees or something like that. I used a piece of double sided tape to stick it on the underside of the hood.

That would be pretty cool to have some aux lighting come on automatically when wheeling at night when you hit a certain pitch. :undecided:
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I saw an LED underhood light today on a Trailblazer where the guy added a small rocker switch right behind the hood release lever. It has an LED indicator on the switch to remind him it's on. At first I was thinking - why run the extra to a switch? I remembered that he needed to run wire off the hood one way or another, and it's low power, so he said he didn't use a relay. Nice, hidden, and in the right spot.
 
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Dealer's choice really. That setup wouldn't work very well for me at all. My legs are long, and almost up against the knee bolster with the seat all the way back as it is, so I would never see the indicator light, unless I made it a point to check for it. Most of the time when I'm doing underhood tinkering, I don't go back in the cabin when I'm done so I'd likely forget the switch there too.

As for the low power bit, that depends on what type, and how many LEDs are being used in the setup, and what current the switch is rated to handle. The tilt switches are rated for pretty low current, since their internals consist of 2 thin pins and electrically conductive fluid, or a metal ball. A mechanical switch can have larger contacts that can handle more current, and make the wiring setup a lot easier.
 
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I would like it just to come on at tilt and not have a switch to flip
 
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Kyle said:
Got the mercury switches in.. 3D printed a case for it that has two strong magnets in it. Now to figure out where to put it.. The magnets are 10mm in diameter.
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Sweet. You could vary the angle that they come on by printing the case with a deeper end. I like it, but I think the lights will come on up hill, during some acceleration, and more. Nice case though.
 
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Kyle said:
Got the mercury switches in.. 3D printed a case for it that has two strong magnets in it. Now to figure out where to put it.. The magnets are 10mm in diameter.
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Pretty cool, I dig it. What were you planning to use it for? Underhood activation? If so, I think you'll be fine, since the hood slopes downwards on level ground anyway. :twocents:
 
OK.. Underhood lighting almost complete. Need to print a bezel for the front side and install a 2 amp fuse. That hood pad is not solid at all. Going to sandwich it between front and back. It will look a lot cleaner. Mercury switch is mounted and works perfect. I can adjust if need be.
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Ordered the license plate bar after looking the bolt lights and just being disappointed again. Stick with what worked for years.
 
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I had an idea, was wondering if anyone has done it, my idea is to take whatever length looks right (once I'm under there) of these 5630 waterproof strips http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-5630-LED-Strip-Pure-White-Waterproof-Light-Flexible-Brighter-than-5050/301641286651?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D30d342e4a54f4b3abe5f8456b0b44c42%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D291210673760 and running them up around where the factory running boards bolt up to the body (purpose being to HIDE the actual strips from any view when walking up to the vehicle, something commonly overlooked when doing under body glow kits) and then wire them into the dome light circuit so they function like puddle lights, anyone done that? I scanned thru this whole 50 page thread looking at the pics and didn't see anything like it, other then the typical underbody kits.

figured it was better to ask here so as to keep all the LED info in one thread.
 
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I haven't seen anyone do that, but a few members have tapped into the dome lights to do puddle light mods. That'd be an interesting idea though man
 
Daniel644 said:
I had an idea, was wondering if anyone has done it, my idea is to take whatever length looks right (once I'm under there) of these 5630 waterproof strips http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-5630-LED-Strip-Pure-White-Waterproof-Light-Flexible-Brighter-than-5050/301641286651?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D30d342e4a54f4b3abe5f8456b0b44c42%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D291210673760 and running them up around where the factory running boards bolt up to the body....
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I had thought of actually running them right under the running boards. I think this would put the light a little bit farther out from the body. I wanted to put the same strips under the front bumper and rear bumper to give it an all around effect for lighting when I locked or unlocked it with the remote.

If you do it, we want to see pictures.
 
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mcsteven said:
I had thought of actually running them right under the running boards. I think this would put the light a little bit farther out from the body. I wanted to put the same strips under the front bumper and rear bumper to give it an all around effect for lighting when I locked or unlocked it with the remote.

If you do it, we want to see pictures.
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Well you see I removed my running boards and I remember from taking them off how the body goes up there and figured if they are bright enough (which is a good question as I've not seen these in person before, anyone here ever use them?) that it would still work good and maybe if there was enough length on the one strip do the wrap around, could also be a good light source when under the truck working.
 
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JimmyJam did that mod not too long before he retired from the forum. He didn't post pics of it, because the LED strips he got were too blue for his tastes. After a couple of months, he took them off his TBSS and gave them to me. I now have a section of those strips as my underhood lighting. They weren't 5630 chips... Not even 5050s, they were much smaller, but still bright as :lipsrsealed:

He took long pieces of angled aluminum, drilled a couple of screw holes along one edge and screwed them into the inside of his frame, and then had the strips facing down. I'll try to see if I can find a pic from somewhere... :book:
 
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5630s are very bright. I have used both red and blue and the red seems less bright than the blue. Of course the wavelength will do that.

Didn't realize you had removed the running boards. As mentioned, hoping to see pictures when it's done.
 
mcsteven said:
5630s are very bright. I have used both red and blue and the red seems less bright than the blue. Of course the wavelength will do that.

Didn't realize you had removed the running boards. As mentioned, hoping to see pictures when it's done.
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So just to confirm I can just tap those 12 volt led strips right into the dome wiring or do I need some type of resistors or other stuff? these strips are new to me.

and yeah not much room for the running boards these days with the 2/3 belltech drop
 

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Tap em right in, they have proper resistors built in. You'll need average soldering skills and soldering tools because after you cut them to length you have to solder wires on to it. I assume you know that but just making sure lol.
 
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Mounce said:
Tap em right in, they have proper resistors built in. You'll need average soldering skills and soldering tools because after you cut them to length you have to solder wires on to it. I assume you know that but just making sure lol.
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Alright, good to go then, I have decent experience at soldering, may not have the steadiest hands but I can get the job done. I'll order the strip later tonight.


edit: order placed, we'll see how quickly they'll get here.
 
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Does anyone have an extra 8" length of 5630 strip in red or white they would like to sell?
 
I've got a few feet of it left over from other projects and figured if he needed some I'd let him have some so that it will be used. Not doing me any good just sitting there lol.

He's just gotta post up the finished product in here. :yes: :wink:
 
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The 5630 LED strip arrived today, did a quick tap (should leads into amp power connections) and stretched out a section the length of the side doors, these puppies put off a good bit of light, we'll have to see how much gets blocked by tucking them up where I want this weekend, in the mean time here is a shot of the strip at about level with the door sills (you can see the strip in the middle of the shot)
 

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any tips on good locations to run the wires from these led strips up into the truck, like say a drain plug in the floor pan or something like that? I'll be climbing under it tomorrow (weather permitting) and any help that will make this go quicker is welcome.
 
I don't think there's a convenient place. Depending on the gauge of wiring, you can likely buy small rubber grommets, pull your carpeting up, drill access holes where you want them, and run the wires into the cabin that way.

For my scuff plate LED mod, I pulled up the door seals, ran the wiring over the lip, and put the door seals back over it. Have been fine for the last couple of years, and the wiring hasn't been damaged. So if you wanted to remove your rocker panels, run the wiring behind them, under the scuff plates and weather seals, that scenario would work. Just depends on how much work you want to put into it.
 
I like that setup Brandon, looks very clean. I pushed mine through the acrylic piece so they'd be brighter against the button face. Possibly due to being ultra cheap LEDs. Knowing what I know now about quality components, I'd probably do mine that way too next time around. :yes:

Blckshdw said:
any tips on good locations to run the wires from these led strips up into the truck, like say a drain plug in the floor pan or something like that? I'll be climbing under it tomorrow (weather permitting) and any help that will make this go quicker is welcome.
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I don't think there's a convenient place. Depending on the gauge of wiring, you can likely buy small rubber grommets, pull your carpeting up, drill access holes where you want them, and run the wires into the cabin that way.
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While hanging with JimmyJam today, I noticed what I mentioned to you earlier. Here's some wires he's running to his underglow LEDs, through the body at the base of the C pillars, through a rubber grommet underneath the panel.

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Blckshdw said:
I like that setup Brandon, looks very clean. I pushed mine through the acrylic piece so they'd be brighter against the button face. Possibly due to being ultra cheap LEDs. Knowing what I know now about quality components, I'd probably do mine that way too next time around. :yes:
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Thanks Brother! I really like the light output with that setup, I remember when I first did mine i tried to use the factory configuration and could not even see light when assembled. I will get another picture from the button side in the morning somehow I forgot to take one lol.


(Here is the top pic from my 05 for now)
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All I have left to do now is finish the Manual HVAC controller and the rear HVAC panel. For the front I have decided to put a 12" led strip in the case. (I have one left over from the cluster it was a 4 pack and only use 3 in the cluster) I do not know why but when I soldered all of the leds in the front panel only 1 lit up?? I didn't have trouble like that with my 05, but none of the lights in it worked before I started so I think it may be a problem with the board. I ran out of time this morning and had to get to bed around 8am because I am on night shift. So I spose I will get the 2 white leds in the center to work and throw the strip in there and call it a day. Also going to investigate doing the radio because only one little button is lit up on the whole thing :yes:

Also when i was disassembling the cluster somehow all but one of the stepper motors broke. I have never had that happen before...... but the pins just pulled right out, even when i tried to spin the needle to "break them loose" the pin just pulled out of the stepper. SO now new ones are in route, in the meantime i soldered the only good one to the fuel gauge and let her use my tablet until they come in. L-O-L :no:


:tiphat:
 
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24v 4.2 said:
Put Aaron amber leds in my headlights.

Apparently the Saab doesn't need resistors for the headlight leds...?

The Aaron 3157 are brighter than the stock bulb by about 40%.

Aaron bulb on right, stock on left.
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24v 4.2 - pulling this to here to discuss it but don't be surprised if it starts hyper flashing soon. Happens like that to some people. Also, link to the bulbs? Did they look like this? (the ones on the left)

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Mounce said:
24v 4.2 - pulling this to here to discuss it but don't be surprised if it starts hyper flashing soon. Happens like that to some people. Also, link to the bulbs? Did they look like this? (the ones on the left)

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I was questioning that as well, but he said that the headlight LEDs does not need resistors. I assume he is talking about LED headlights :undecided: The only reason I could think of needing a resistor on an LED headlight is to prevent the "bulb out" warning on the dash. I am not too familiar with Saab and do not know if they are equipped with that feature.

I would imagine you definitely would have to have resistors tied into the turn signals as all the wiring should be the same on other platforms.
 
Same leds I have in both of my vehicles, they are indeed bright.

Ps: all 3157 sockets have 3 wires. I guess you'll just have to wait and see if they HF or not.
 
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