Mounce
Member
I wondered if he tested them but thought he did since at first he said they didn't need resistors.
LED Mod Thread
- Thread starter Blckshdw
- Start date
The aero has a different flasher module setup than our trucks do. I remember this, because an aero owner over on TBSSO PMed me forever ago asking about the LED flasher replacement. When he took his out, it was different than ours.
It's hard to remember, I'm getting old ya know, but I wanna say there was an LED flasher module for the Saab, so I'm not sure if it will start hyperflashing later or not. Time will tell.
It's hard to remember, I'm getting old ya know, but I wanna say there was an LED flasher module for the Saab, so I'm not sure if it will start hyperflashing later or not. Time will tell.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Finished my dome lights finally. [emoji13] Truck was disgusting inside last night so I'll take pictures tonight.
Porkins
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 6,960
Mounce
Member
Daniel644
Member
- Feb 27, 2015
- 590
Found where I will run the wiring for the under body lighting. Plan is to try and find some rubber grommets of the appropriate sizes to replace these metal units that are literally inches from where the light strip will start and I can then run the wiring under the carpet to where I will tap them in, speaking of which is there dome light wiring in the b-pillar between the doors? I seam to remember reading that somewhere.
Attachments
Daniel644
Member
- Feb 27, 2015
- 590
they have like a rubber coating on top and then paint over that so you have to hit them from under neath to break it apart so they come out. they are easy to get to, there are 2 at each side and the outer most is outside of the frame rail, just look at where it is in the pic and it's easy to spot when you get underneathBlckshdw said:
I couldn't find a rubber grommet that would serve the purpose so I'm going to plan B, I bought some of that rubber flashing stuff many of us use as an alternative to dynamat and I'm going to put a layer or 2 on top of the hole under the carpet and another layer or 2 under the truck to create my own plug then just push the wires thru that for a nice tight seal.
Sounds good, make sure you take pics of that. I too had nooo idea those little ports were thereDaniel644 said:
Mounce
Member
Here's a pic of those bulbs in two other applications. Only one applies here lol.24v 4.2 said:
That's just running mode, flashing is multiple times brighter.
Mounce
Member
Nah there are some here lol. Personally on my car I just got tired of switchbacks tbh and now that I'm itching for them again I know they won't match my headlights so I can't decide whether to get them or not.
Turned out mine are custom because the guy who made them had to have the yellow SMD's made by Samsung because it didn't exist lol. He's got some still left, switchbacks, normal turns, 194's, etc.Mounce said:
Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
- 3,446
When Ryan did my headlights he added led switchback strips. Awesome, I say. Awesome.
Mounce
Member
Mounce
Member
Daniel644
Member
- Feb 27, 2015
- 590
Alrighty, now time for some Pics and VIDEO
lets start with a video I shot showing all the floor "punch outs" in the area I ran my LED strips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r05HmSiDTMs
I used window flashing on both top and bottom of the hole create a weather tight seal since I couldn't find a grommet to easily fit there locally, plus the one on the passenger side is a bit oddly shaped and likely would never find a grommet to work, and just to try to give a better surface for the LED's to stick to I ran strips of the flashing along the under body in the area
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSHWIJQnNk4
after I shot that video I added another layer of flashing to the top and bottom of where the wires went through to get as tight a seal as possible
the wires then run under the carpet to the B-pillar and tap into the courtesy light circuit which FYI is the small group of wires toward the front side of the B-pillar, in that bundle you will find 3 wires (Orange, Grey w/ black stripe and Black) the black is your ground (there is also a ground bolt on the B-pillar) the Orange is the reading lights and the Grey/Black is the courtesy lighting positive, tap into the Black (or use the ground bolt) for your negative lead and then tap your positive to the Grey/Black and now the LED strip will fully function with the interior lights and you are free to repeat the process on the other side.
I have installed the LED strip to the body but I still need to route the wiring over to the B-pillar and tap it in, I think I will also alter My earlier plans to use the extra festoons for footwell lighting and add a few shorter strips of the remaining strip to the circuit.
in the 4 attached pics you have one taken around 7:15PM when it was still light outside and then 2 pics showing the spread and brightness at night (trying to avoid the headlights) and the last pic has the driver door open so you get some additional lighting from the interior LEDs shining on the ground as well.
and last but not least the video of the lights dimming, something about the camera makes it look like they are flickering but they aren't, they dim just as smooth as the interior lights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d042jeZ9lQg
lets start with a video I shot showing all the floor "punch outs" in the area I ran my LED strips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r05HmSiDTMs
I used window flashing on both top and bottom of the hole create a weather tight seal since I couldn't find a grommet to easily fit there locally, plus the one on the passenger side is a bit oddly shaped and likely would never find a grommet to work, and just to try to give a better surface for the LED's to stick to I ran strips of the flashing along the under body in the area
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSHWIJQnNk4
after I shot that video I added another layer of flashing to the top and bottom of where the wires went through to get as tight a seal as possible
the wires then run under the carpet to the B-pillar and tap into the courtesy light circuit which FYI is the small group of wires toward the front side of the B-pillar, in that bundle you will find 3 wires (Orange, Grey w/ black stripe and Black) the black is your ground (there is also a ground bolt on the B-pillar) the Orange is the reading lights and the Grey/Black is the courtesy lighting positive, tap into the Black (or use the ground bolt) for your negative lead and then tap your positive to the Grey/Black and now the LED strip will fully function with the interior lights and you are free to repeat the process on the other side.
I have installed the LED strip to the body but I still need to route the wiring over to the B-pillar and tap it in, I think I will also alter My earlier plans to use the extra festoons for footwell lighting and add a few shorter strips of the remaining strip to the circuit.
in the 4 attached pics you have one taken around 7:15PM when it was still light outside and then 2 pics showing the spread and brightness at night (trying to avoid the headlights) and the last pic has the driver door open so you get some additional lighting from the interior LEDs shining on the ground as well.
and last but not least the video of the lights dimming, something about the camera makes it look like they are flickering but they aren't, they dim just as smooth as the interior lights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d042jeZ9lQg
Attachments
Glad to see that turned out well man. Real nice write-up with great pics & vids [emoji41]Daniel644 said:
I'm sure more if us will do this mod now that you've found those holes in the floor, makes it a lot easier to run wire from outside. I may do some courtesy lights too now lol
Daniel644
Member
- Feb 27, 2015
- 590
and it's fairly cheap to do too the strip light is about 10-12 dollars, I bought 2 (30') rolls of 16 gauge wire from walmart at 6 bucks each, but 1 roll of 18 gauge would work, provided you can keep track of which wire is which lead, the window flashing roll was 10 bucks from Lowes (and I still have like half or more of it left, I would suggest finding another use for the rest ASAP) so the whole thing could be done for under 30 bucks, assuming you have solder, soldering iron, hot glue gun (used to insulate the connections at the LED strip after soldering) and some method of tapping the wires together, whether it be butt connectors or t-taps where the new wires connect to the existing circuit.Capote said:
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Dome lights, I used impressive camera angles to hide the filth. 
Front is dimmer then the rear, but looks the same because of the tint. The rear is too bright imo.
The first one I did, cargo light
Don't mind the pole.
Mess of chargers.
Still don't mind the pole.
Overall I'm happy, the dim map light when you hit the button is annoying as is the flickering but oh well.
Front is dimmer then the rear, but looks the same because of the tint. The rear is too bright imo.
The first one I did, cargo light
Don't mind the pole.
Mess of chargers.
Still don't mind the pole.
Overall I'm happy, the dim map light when you hit the button is annoying as is the flickering but oh well.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
If I were to do it, I would go with red since it doesn't mess with night vision at all. But with it being a green truck I don't think that would work. I like them, but it makes it difficult coordinating colors.Capote said:
Yeah, gotta have the right colored rig lollittleblazer said:If I were to do it, I would go with red since it doesn't mess with night vision at all. But with it being a green truck I don't think that would work. I like them, but it makes it difficult coordinating colors.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Does anyone have the polarity layout for swb rear HVAC controls? Did it ages ago, but the picture I had as a reference was off an ext, apparently they're not the same in terms of polarity and didn't work, I've been to lazy and forget about it months on end. I'm bored as hell and feel like redoing it
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Don't like looking like Christmas?littleblazer said:If I were to do it, I would go with red since it doesn't mess with night vision at all. But with it being a green truck I don't think that would work. I like them, but it makes it difficult coordinating colors.
Mounce
Member
mcsteven
Member
- Apr 18, 2012
- 6,584
Nope. I've got blue. And some blue for my footwells when I get the chance to install. As far as you mentioned earlier about switchbacks - I'm still using incandescents.Capote said:
Why not look at the green ones? I know the night vision is interrupted a bit with light other than red, but our trucks won't light up too bright with just the individual map lights anyway. I'm running blue and it looks great, is vry bright, and I don't have a problem readjusting to night viewing. The red was no where near the brightness level. Same size and quantity of LEDs in the same layout, so I'm guessing the wavelength of the color.littleblazer said:If I were to do it, I would go with red since it doesn't mess with night vision at all. But with it being a green truck I don't think that would work. I like them, but it makes it difficult coordinating colors.
I've bought from this ebay seller a few times. Never disappointed. If you want stuff faster (coming from China) contact them and pay the $1.99 shipping difference. I usually get stuff in about 8-10 days that way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Green-Car-24-SMD-5630-LED-panel-Light-Dome-Bulb-T10-Festoon-Spring-12V-/390760660368?hash=item5afb267d90
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Red has less density (power... perceived light output?) Then an equivalent in any other color. It also has low reflectivity and doesn't attract bugs. Coast Guard and such use red at night so when scanning the water they can have it on and still see. There was a push to switch to blue, which also doesn't effect night vision but it's so bright and reflects off everything that it does simply by glare. Idk about the green. But I built my panels and it would be interesting to get them out of the housings to put in those. those may work for something else I wanna try though. Thanks for the link. [emoji106]mcsteven said:
I don't really think the blue would look to bad on mine either, I mean they have a pretty decent blue tint to them to begin with. Next is most defiently turn signals though.
Capote said:
I can see just fine at night, and have had blue LEDs literally everywhere in my TB for years.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665