LED Mod Thread

[bluenvoyerob]

I Finished up my LED mods on the HVAC. I'm hoping to post more pictures eventually. Here, I haven't started on the radio yet, but modded everything else. I saw an HVAC color scheme I liked here so I copy a little, haha.

I used 5mm Flat Top White LEDs 20000 mcd with 4.7 Kohm resistors. Using 470 ohm or 560 ohm was too blindingly bring for my liking.
For the colors, I just used regular "dome" shaped LEDs. Only two more steering wheel buttons, the cluster, and radio to go!

For the picture, I dialed down the brightness a tad so the Temp, and Radio readout didn't blind the camera...

View attachment 26929

 

[MikesTB]

Blckshdw when you did your blue led mod on the climate panel I saw your resistors were blue I ordered some resistors that are also 1/4 watt 470 ohm but they are tan color does that matter?

 

[Blckshdw]

Blckshdw when you did your blue led mod on the climate panel I saw your resistors were blue I ordered some resistors that are also 1/4 watt 470 ohm but they are tan color does that matter?

The base colors of the resistors doesn't matter. The color and order of the bands does, that's how you can tell what the ohm ratings are, if they ever get mixed up with some other ones or aren't labelled. There are tons of sites that list what the band patterns are for the different resistor ratings with a quick google search if needed.

 

[Conner299]

Got my LED drivers in the mail today... Didn't quite realize exactly how small they would be!

 

[bluenvoyerob]

Thank you for the pictures and warning Kuchar. I've done a few LED mods so far (Front and Rear HVAC, wiper and 4x4 switches, 2 steering wheel switches, and door switches). I thought I'd tackle this one next. Did you happen to note the polarity of each bulb location? I started to trace which bulbs were linked in series but didn't have a socket small enough to remove the faceplate circuitboard. Is it a 3mm? Thank you!

Today while fixing a solder point on an LED in my stereo I thought I'd take a few pictures that might be helpful to others. Since I am the only one that has done this mod (as far as I know) finding the polarity of the LEDs was a pain in the .

First off this is NOT easy by any means and should be your absolute last LED swap. These are some pictures that I would have been grateful for while I was doing this mod. I say this not because it can be a pain to get to the LEDs, but because the LEDs are wired in series every 4 LEDs or so and once I ripped out all the old LEDs and found this out began to freak out!

There are 2 bolts (circled in red) on the back bottom of the stereo that need to be taken out then you can pop the bottom off, but be careful because there is a module on the bottom case(that you are taking off) that attach to the circuit board that need to be unplugged (circled in blue).
Once you can see the inside like the picture below you can start popping the tabs (circled in purple) around the faceplate. You should be able to pop almost all of them off except one and then you need to get something to push on the faceplate outward (where I circled in green). You will feel it give a little then you will be able to pop off the last tab and wiggle the faceplate off.

Once you have the faceplate off you will see 4 bolts that need to be taken out.
You also need to pull off the volume knob and the tune knob, in order to do this just grab them firmly and pull them off.

Once you have the bolts out you should be able to separate the faceplate and see the LEDs. By looking at this picture you should be able to see how the polarity of the LEDs which was the hard part for me! In order to replace the bulbs in the power and tune knob you have to fully unsolder the knob from the board (which is a pain) in order to change the LEDs in the knob.
Sorry I couldn't get a better picture, but if I would have taken the rubber pad off I probably would have ruined a few LEDs.

Anyone that has the guts to do this just remember to take your time or else you might be buying yourself a new head unit!!

 

[Conner299]

HELP!!!! Does anyone have the polarities for the rear door switches. I figured it would be a filament bulb, and its a square smd led. Can I even put in a regular LED with resistor? Or do I need to get an smd led? Or third, do I just put in led, since there was already an led? AAAARRRGGHHHH!!!

 

[Blckshdw]

HELP!!!! Does anyone have the polarities for the rear door switches. I figured it would be a filament bulb, and its a square smd led. Can I even put in a regular LED with resistor? Or do I need to get an smd led? Or third, do I just put in led, since there was already an led? AAAARRRGGHHHH!!!

The little notch on the SMD notates the negative side. No resistor is needed, there's already an SMD resistor on the board.

 

[Conner299]

The little notch on the SMD notates the negative side. No resistor is needed, there's already an SMD resistor on the board.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU... Oh wise one. Didn't do any research into smd's, so I didn't know. Worked like a charm. Getting ready to do a front door switch now, with a LED driver. I'll let you know how it turns out...

 

[djthumper]

Damn I used to know this by heart! There was a saying to help you remember. I learned it in college(20 years ago).
But I will be darned if I can even remember 1 word of it.

Here is one of the more PC ones that I learned.

Bad Beer Rots Our Young Guts But Vodka Goes Well
Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

 

[Conner299]

Well, my little LED driver experiment ended, unsuccessfully. The Led drivers, I pictured earlier on this page, are a royal PITA to get apart. There are actually two in that picture. Broke one while trying to do this. I installed the second, on a parallel circuit, in the passenger front door switch. It just would not light up. I made sure all my polarities were correct. I double checked all my solder joints. I touched my positive and negative leads to a 9v battery, and nothing. Double checked everything again, and still nothing. The only conclusion I can come to, is I overheated the board and fried it. These things are tiny, and I can see a small amount of heat killing these things during soldering, if one isn't vigilant. Hopefully, Blckshdw has better luck with them, than I did. I have already picked up resistors, to do both door switches, and the driver side is lit-up like a X-Mas tree. Just have to get the passenger side done.

 

[Blckshdw]

Well, my little LED driver experiment ended, unsuccessfully. The Led drivers, I pictured earlier on this page, are a royal PITA to get apart. There are actually two in that picture. Broke one while trying to do this. I installed the second, on a parallel circuit, in the passenger front door switch. It just would not light up. I made sure all my polarities were correct. I double checked all my solder joints. I touched my positive and negative leads to a 9v battery, and nothing. Double checked everything again, and still nothing. The only conclusion I can come to, is I overheated the board and fried it. These things are tiny, and I can see a small amount of heat killing these things during soldering, if one isn't vigilant. Hopefully, Blckshdw has better luck with them, than I did. I have already picked up resistors, to do both door switches, and the driver side is lit-up like a X-Mas tree. Just have to get the passenger side done.

Sorry to hear that Ed, I was hoping it would be an easy mod for you. I found those on a few different sites, looks like they all have the same descriptions verbatim, and I noticed they say to use pliers or have 'strong fingers' to get them apart. I was planning to buy a handful of them, one so I have extra in case I broke any like you did, and two, just to have handy for future mods if things go the way I want when I test them out next month.

Got pics of the board installed? Just for my own curiosity...

 

[Conner299]

I may have just wired them up wrong as well... Who knows? I used two prongs, from trimmed LED's, as my connectors for the LED driver. After this attempt, I was sick of trying to use 14/16 gauge wire. It was just what I had on hand, and figured it would do. I picked up some solid core, 20 gauge copper wire from Radio Shack. Way easier to work with. I also used a hot glue gun, to hold everything in place. All the positive is running vertically, on the left. Negative on the right.

Edit: As for getting these things apart... I ended up using a utility knife, with a new blade. I put the blade in the crease, between each driver, and gently rocked it back and forth. Just make sure to keep a hand overtop of all this, to keep the driver's from flying.

 

[Blckshdw]

I meant a pic of the LED driver installed

I was thinking of using a razor blade on the crease, glad to see I was on the right track. The first time I wired up my door modules, I used thick wire too, just cuz I had it laying around. Gave me issues when putting them back together. Redid them with smaller wire later on and it played much nicer.

 

[Conner299]

Im either missing the joke in that post, or you really didnt see the driver... Its right underneath the lowest LED in the pic, if you did miss it. I think I get the joke there, now. If one was implied. Yeah... I wouldnt go anywhere near those drivers with a pair of pliers. Thats how I broke the first one. Wasnt doing any hard squeezing, or anything. Just figuring out how, and if I could even grip one, with the pliers.

 

[Blckshdw]

Im either missing the joke in that post, or you really didnt see the driver... Its right underneath the lowest LED in the pic, if you did miss it. I think I get the joke there, now. If one was implied. Yeah... I wouldnt go anywhere near those drivers with a pair of pliers. Thats how I broke the first one. Wasnt doing any hard squeezing, or anything. Just figuring out how, and if I could even grip one, with the pliers.

OHHHH!!! Now I see it. And yes, you wired it in wrong, blew your LEDs in the process. It has to be in series with your LED circuit, otherwise the current can just bypass it and plow through your LEDs, sending them to an early

Edit: If that was a load resistor, then yes, it would be wired up correctly

 

[Conner299]

OHHHH!!! Now I see it. And yes, you wired it in wrong, blew your LEDs in the process. It has to be in series with your LED circuit, otherwise the current can just bypass it and plow through your LEDs, sending them to an early

Edit: If that was a load resistor, then yes, it would be wired up correctly

Ahh... I understand now... I didn't realise they had to be wired in a series... So, they basically take the place of whatever resistor is used the series... That was a $5 dollar lesson that could have been avoided.

 

[jimmyjam]

you wired them like the first diag you need to wire them like teh second

View attachment 27091

the current limiter is probably fine, the leds are toast

 

[Showtyme]

Installed cree switchbacks today.

 

[Showtyme]

I also took some video.
[video=youtube;k2MFQ_3YYR8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-4I6SaBwNU[/url] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2MFQ_3YYR8[/video] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-4I6SaBwNU

 

[Showtyme]

Look what I got today.

 

[yodaddy4200]

So im having trouble with my switchbacks. While the car is in park they work normal no problems. When i drive ill pull up to my destination get out and one of the will be off? if i hit the signal for the off side it will either signal and stay on or it will signal and the other side will go out? The wiring procedure was fairly easy and i already double checked the splice points? i dont know what it could be everytime i inspect the lights in the driveway/garage they work flawlessly. Its seems to happen when i drive igues.

Im also having a cruise controll issue as well. If i manually switch my headlights off, CC works fine UNTIL i signal ro turn my lights on?? Do i need to add a resistor to my brake light? Or both of the them?

Ive had these issue since installing the switchbacks. Since then ive installed 6k HIDs, cap mod and quad beams and everything is just the same...

Any help would be great thanks guys!

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

I am not sure for the rear leds (as I have none installed) but I thought I remembered hearing that they needed load resisters or they would mess with the cruise control. Did you use load resisters on the front?

 

[yodaddy4200]

Yup 50w 6ohm and i got the wiring diagram from you!! (Thanks by the way!) Used one for each switchback, i havent had any hyperflashing so i assume their working? And yes sir they get HOT!! lol

 

[Blckshdw]

So im having trouble with my switchbacks. While the car is in park they work normal no problems. When i drive ill pull up to my destination get out and one of the will be off? if i hit the signal for the off side it will either signal and stay on or it will signal and the other side will go out? The wiring procedure was fairly easy and i already double checked the splice points? i dont know what it could be everytime i inspect the lights in the driveway/garage they work flawlessly. Its seems to happen when i drive igues.

Im also having a cruise controll issue as well. If i manually switch my headlights off, CC works fine UNTIL i signal ro turn my lights on?? Do i need to add a resistor to my brake light? Or both of the them?

Ive had these issue since installing the switchbacks. Since then ive installed 6k HIDs, cap mod and quad beams and everything is just the same...

Any help would be great thanks guys!

If the switchbacks work fine when the truck is stationary, and act up when it's moving, then I don't think the connections are tight in the socket. Double check the bases of the bulbs to make sure the contact pins are straight, and lining up well with the pins in the socket. Try to replicate the driving problem, by wiggling the bulbs in their sockets while the turn signals are on to try to confirm.

For the cruise control, I am a bit confused. You need to have your headlights off AND no turn signals in order for it to work? If your headlights or turn signals are affecting cruise control, and not just the brake light functions, then you've got a wiring issue somewhere else that your truck does not like. Since I wasn't there when you wired things up, to troubleshoot, I would remove mods one by one, and test the cruise control function until it operated properly. As a double check, put back any of the removed mods, except for the very last removed mod, to make sure it was just 1 mod causing the problem, and not a combination of them.

Good luck.

 

[yodaddy4200]

I just put my HIDs in friday night, while i had the grille and lights off i did just that. Checked them and they were tight when i pulled them out and when i put them back in.

All this started when i put the switchbacks in and nothing has changed since adding new mods. Im going to add resistors to the brake lights and see what that does. I did read on here also that CC can be affected with no resistors on brake lights so iguess ill look into that more. Maybe both issues are connected...

 

[Blckshdw]

OK, so my LED drivers came in, as well as my variable voltage power supply. So I broke out some LEDs and a small breadboard to do some testing and see what kinda possibilities there are with them. I wasn't disappointed either :wootwoot:


First up, 15V over 6 LEDs in series, with the LED driver in series between the 1st and 2nd LED.

Next up, moved the ground to just behind the 4th LED, almost the same brightness, but easily not near the full potential.

To switch things up a bit, I kept the LED driver behind the 1st LED, then ran 2 sets of 3 LEDs in series, in parallel to each other behind the first one, and dropped the voltage to match our truck. Turned out MUCH brighter than putting them all in series, which is to be expected.

I picked up 5 of these, my plan will use 4 of them, so hopefully I can make a couple of large matrices with one of these at the front of each one, and not have to worry about resistor calculations and shit anymore

 

[Sparky]

I cheat when it comes to those calculations

Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Not completely on topic, but not completely off and you guys knows lights...

My dad wants brake light bar for under his silverado tailgate. I know many of the cheap ones are junk, but I know some guys on here have found good ones for reasonable prices that wont get water in them 15 minutes after you install them. I was thinking Recon was the brand, but my searching has not found me the answer I seek. Can yall help me out?

What is the best decent priced high-value rear light bar?

Thanks

 

[Blckshdw]

It's been a while since I looked into them. I had a Rampage bar initially, which used 3mm round top LEDs in a tube. This is where the moisture issue bites you in the ass, because you've got a cavity that has to be sealed. They have since changed their style to use SMD LEDs with a clear silicone cover (just like the LED strips that are a dime a dozen) so it's water tight across the whole strip.

I've heard good things about Recon bars too, so if the price is in his range, and it has the features he wants, then go for it. Any way your dad decides to go, avoiding the older style with non SMD LED bulbs is key. As far as what's 'best', well you know Roadie's response to that.

 

[Decembersend]

It's been a while since I looked into them. I had a Rampage bar initially, which used 3mm round top LEDs in a tube. This is where the moisture issue bites you in the ass, because you've got a cavity that has to be sealed. They have since changed their style to use SMD LEDs with a clear silicone cover (just like the LED strips that are a dime a dozen) so it's water tight across the whole strip.

I've heard good things about Recon bars too, so if the price is in his range, and it has the features he wants, then go for it. Any way your dad decides to go, avoiding the older style with non SMD LED bulbs is key. As far as what's 'best', well you know Roadie's response to that.

I was sceptical about buying the Rampage after seeing what happend to Carltons but they have changed the design and it works perfect. I bought it last year in June and its still water free and all LEDs still fire.

Rampage

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

still not as bright as I'd like them...but they'll do for now

 

[yodaddy4200]

So today i ripped apart the switchbacks and TRIPLE checked EVERYTHING. I took off the first resistor and the bulb did all the exact same stuff it did with the resistor minus the hyperflash of course. I give up i took em off. I really dont think ill find amber LEDs that are bright enough for the daytime. The switchbacks were not very bright in the day light. Ive got a 3k fog kit going in soon anyways so the amber should look good!!

Ill already posted most of this in the "Post a pic right now" but i wanted to give you guys a little more in depth version and give you all the "data" ive collected

Forgot the pick

View attachment 27464

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

ok, so I looked around and didn't see an answer that satisfied me. I'll ask my buddy tomorrow that's on the local pd and see what he says. BUT...do you legally HAVE to have running lights? (in the front, of course) I mean, headlights-obviously, turn signals-duh, but the bulbs that go in the corner lense and reflector bowl under the headlight bulbs? I kinda like the idea of having the 4 projectors being the only output from my truck at night (from the front)
::not to mention, it'd be MUCH cheaper since I matte'd out the reflector bowl, and was considering VLED's to give me a good output, a bright 60 amber led bulb should be good enough for both of the turn signal bulbs if I don't use white in the others, yea? (even if it's "illegal" haha )

 

[dmanns67]

Were you running the AO or AW switch backs? What issues were you having with them?

 

[yodaddy4200]

Were you running the AO or AW switch backs? What issues were you having with them?

(AW) i believe. Ive looked them up on autolumination.com and the (AO) ones are white while running and only flash amber when you signal.

Mine are white while in running light mode. But alternate white/amber when signaling/hazards. If i get different switchbacks ill get (AO) next time.

 

[Blckshdw]

(AW) i believe. Ive looked them up on autolumination.com and the (AO) ones are white while running and only flash amber when you signal.

Mine are white while in running light mode. But alternate white/amber when signaling/hazards. If i get different switchbacks ill get (AO) next time.

Which model did you get? Were they half/half, how many total LEDs? I got the 60/60s with the dual color LEDs, and mine are pretty bright day or night

 

[Yinger36]

Started to take the plunge into replacing the factory bulbs with LEDs....started out of necessity (Took to the dealership for the drivers door switch recall, got it back with both bulbs in the switch burnt out, figured now was a good time as any to give it a go). In any case, slowly working my way around the dash replacing bulbs but here is what has been done so far:

Headlight switch
View attachment 27495

Transfer Case and Rear Wiper switches
View attachment 27496

The drivers door switch has also been done, but using a pair of Radio Shack 5mm white LEDs...which don't seem to put off nearly the light as the rest so I think those are getting replaced here shortly.

Thanks to all the pioneers on here for the how-to's! More to come as I find time on the weekends.

 

[dmanns67]

(AW) i believe. Ive looked them up on autolumination.com and the (AO) ones are white while running and only flash amber when you signal.

Mine are white while in running light mode. But alternate white/amber when signaling/hazards. If i get different switchbacks ill get (AO) next time.

AW sounds right. I looked at videos of the AW switchbacks, but looked more like a strobe light than a turn signal. AO are the way to go and I have no issues seeing them during daylight hours. They have 60 LEDs, 30 white and 30 amber. I purchased them from V-LEDs.com and I see they also have AOs with 92 LEDs, 46 white and 46 amber. I am sure you would have no issues with light output on those.

 

[Short Bus]

I was wondering about the fitment, 48s seem like they would be too large for the interior lights. I bet the light output is literally night and day.

Here's a 36, there's plenty of room to step up to a 48.

 

[fr34kout]

Shortbus those are 36 3028 led's, idk about Ninjuuh but I bought 48 5050 SMD panels.

The set on the left was one of the "custom" sets from Trailvoy, it only lasted a couple months before rows were going out. I'm guessing it was due to vibrations from my sounds breaking solder joints. Anyways replaced them with the 48 5050 SMD panels on the right.



This was taken in the day time



And they're fucking BRIGHT! I just realized it's been a full year and I still haven't wired up the cargo area to put 2 panels. I just have to add an extra wire to the connector, I should do that this weekend.



I believe they were ~$7 each on ebay shipped, I bought 8. 6 for the interior, and 2 for the license plate lights.