What did you do to your GMT today?

Got my stuck spare tire down off the Silverado. It has only been stuck there since I bought it nearly 2 years ago. The hoist actually still works fine, but the secondary latch is all screwed up (surprise surprise). So, to prevent that from happening again, the latch had an appointment with Mr. Grinder.



In the process of unbolting the hoist, my 1/2" Craftsman ratchet had the dumbest failure I've seen. I get that these ratchets I have are their basic cheap home grade ones, but really?



I need to take all 3 sizes of my ratchets back to Sears. The 1/2" for this, the 3/8" for the release not working properly (sockets tend to get stuck on it), and the 1/4" for tending to spin freely.

I think I need to buy some decent quality 1/4" and 1/2" ratchets as my primary usage ones (I already have a nice long handle Snap-On 3/8" ratchet from a May03 contest a while back), and I'll keep the replacements for these as secondaries when I need another ratchet for something.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I'm about to get some PIAA brand silicone wipers. I guess I'm finally tired of my ratty rubber wipers with little strips of the blade hanging off and blowing in the breeze.

I have my passenger side wiper indexed down a notch (to eliminate the annoying light gap underneath), but the consequence is a little spot that both wipers miss in the middle of the windshield that also annoys me.
I'm going to try out one 24" and one 22" wiper to see if I can finally obtain the ideal™ GMT360 wiper setup.
 
Got my '05 Envoy back from my son-in-law a couple days ago after 5 weeks of what was supposed to be "a few days - a week tops " ( he blew the eng. in his '13 Mazda Speed3 8,000 miles outta warr and they wouldn't do anything for him). Anyways,, I got it back with a hum/ fine vibration from the front and a noticable scrape in the rear bumper. The bumper I'll just live with but I'm gonna have to fix that 'hum' which I'm real sure is a wheel hub. Can someone point me to a good thread on what I can expect to run into doing this job?? Tools I might need to rent? I have most of the usual items. I'm also trying to decide what brand of hub to go with. Thanks
 
Don't need to rent anything except maybe a 36mm axle nut socket if yours if 4x4 and you don't have that size socket. Everything else is regular old metric bolts. It's really an easy swap, it is seriously only 3 more bolts and the axle nut past a full pad + rotor brake job on that corner.
 
Drove it home from the Gov't auction place :woohoo:

But, as soon as I drove it off the lot, ABS and Traction Control lights came on :Banghead:

Scanned it with the Tech2, C0040 (right front wheel sensor circuit) and C0244 (TC PWM issue). Also had a SWPS code. Oh, and the TPMS light is on. Can't scan it with the Tech2 so I have no clue what it is since it's an LS with no DIC :cry:.
 

Mounce

Silver Supporter
Drove her 400 miles north for a week of vacation. Averaged 18-20mpg going 70-80.

Got issues at idle, likes to try to die, figuring throttle body is dirty, been 20-30k miles since it was cleaned when I done the plugs. Also gotta chase some gremlin in driver side fog light, ballast or relay I'm figuring. Will have plenty of time to tinker I believe.
 
Took one of the rusty fake beadlock bolts out so I could take it in to work and find out what size thread it is, but I left it at home. Oops. Try again tomorrow. I'm hoping I can find some stainless replacements, but apparently stainless, metric, flange bolts are harder to find than I thought...I can find them, but I only need 6-10mm long bolts and the shortest I've found for this size is 16mm. Hm, cutting and deburring a total of 64 bolts doesn't sound like a ton of fun.

Emailed the wheel manufacturer to see if they have replacements, the wheels are less than a year old after all. I don't want more coated steel bolts though as they'll just rust next winter!
 
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Capote

Gold Supporter
After over a year of having these filters, I did the cabin air filter mod.
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Checked the front right ABS sensor and figured it was the connector that wasn't clicking in right and was loose. Zip tied it and so far, no lights. Also cleaned and lubed the front brakes. It will need right upper and lower ball joints. Looks like left side were already replaced. Changed the oil as it was due for March 2016 according to reminder sticker.

Next, rear brakes check and adjust parking brake as it's not holding cranked all the way up. Have to get it working for safety.
 
Not today but yesterday, finally got the thermostat and ECT sensor replaced on my TB, so far so good getting a good reading on the dash gauge. But boy, I don't want to be doing that again.... :Banghead:

The thermostat was easy compared to the ECT. I thought it would be the other way around.

So far there are no lights on the dash, and oh my how clean does it look!!! :biggrin:

I know there's a misfire which should pop up soon, other than that also got my OBDII scanner yesterday. Will be trying it out today on the TB. And as promised will be putting up an article on how to change the thermostat and ECT sensor soon! :2thumbsup:
 
Relocated my outside temp sensor, re-mounted my trans cooler (didn't like the way the mech did it), and (over)filled my PS reservoir. :dunce:
Turkey baster to the rescue. :thumbsup:
 
Took out the air bag to tinker with the horn switch, since ever since I did the DIC button swap, my horn hasn't worked more often than it did. Turns out the button wire harness, which technically in it's correct place, was just misaligned enough to prevent the horn switch from closing the circuit.

So I opted to unclip the harness from it's designated spot at the top of the steering wheel, and move it to the bottom, which not only gave me more slack for the buttons, but let me position the wires better for the horn to function.

This was made painfully evident by the number of times the horn sounded while putting the air bag back in place :crazy:
 
Replaced both right ball joints. I hate removing the original lower joints. Always a bitch to get out. Had to heat the A-arm around it to get it to move.

All that's left is the parking brake. Probably will take care of that on Thurs.
 

northcreek

Well-Known Member
Replaced both right ball joints. I hate removing the original lower joints. Always a bitch to get out. Had to heat the A-arm around it to get it to move.
Boy, I hear ya on that...If GM would have put a little more meat around the damn thing you could get a better support for pressing.
 
Relocated my outside temp sensor, re-mounted my trans cooler (didn't like the way the mech did it), and (over)filled my PS reservoir. :dunce:
Turkey baster to the rescue. :thumbsup:
I need to do that to my sensor as well, atm I'm getting my engine temp reading :biggrin:, other than that tested out my OBDII scanner, love the thing. Can't understand why I didn't get it earlier :2thumbsup:
 
I pulled down my spare, cleaned the rim, applied CorrosionX after wire brushing the rim, treated the cable with CorrosionX, cleaned both sides of the tire and treated with Meguiar's tire treatment. Also wired brushed and coated the holder portion of the assembly. Then I (out of vanity) installed new Blue Chrome lugnuts on the 9-7x. RRcloseup.jpg
 

Mounce

Silver Supporter
Drove her 400 miles south back home after vacation. Totaled almost 1,000 miles for the week. No issues other than a fog light ballast going out but I brought spares so no big deal.
 
Stuck my spare tire carrier back on the truck and aired up the spare. Figured I may as well keep it under there since I could use it to limp home if I ever did have a busted tire.
 
Actually yesterday, adjusted the parking brake and cleaned and lubed rear brakes. Did a last once look over and brought it in for the safety. Passed with flying colours. :2thumbsup:
 
Been a bit dull this past week. The weather conditions were really bad. Had sandstorms with winds in excess of 33 Kmph!! I could feel them hitting on the TB!!!! Anyways yesterday replaced the steering wheel cover on my Dads Yukon and today cleaned up my TB, wasn't satisfied with the way it turned out so I went out and bought Megiuars Interior Detailer. Will be using it tmrw hopefully. Other than that I am currently working on a really really top secret mod. So stay tuned for that :2thumbsup:

Will be posting up some pics soon, ohh and the thermostat and ECT sensor change articles should be up by tmrw hopefully :biggrin:

EDIT: Articles up so if guys want you can check it out in the articles section.

Here's the cover I put in my Dads Yukon

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I also forgot that I bought a new sunshade for the TB

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Mounce

Silver Supporter
Cleaned the throttle body in hopes of curing my random idle issues. Was barely dirty after 10-20,000 miles and a years time...

Surprisingly no oil sludge in the resonator like there was the last time I had it off during 100k tune up.
 
My SD card I was using in my Android head unit died, so I used it as an excuse to load a custom image on it from a guy over at XDA Developers. Holy crap I should have done this a long time ago.
 
My SD card I was using in my Android head unit died, so I used it as an excuse to load a custom image on it from a guy over at XDA Developers. Holy crap I should have done this a long time ago.
Which unit are you using, and does it still retain the door chimes and all the good stuff. Have always thought about getting one but then I really need those chimes :bonk:
 
The one I'm using is designed for my truck specifically (matches the dash mounting and everything, looks factory). Yes it retains chimes through a decoder box.

I had a more basic Pioneer in my Trailblazer, but I used a decoder harness (cost about $50) to retain the chimes etc. The harness you need is determined by whether you have OnStar and/or Bose or not (or if you care to retain OnStar, if you don't you can ignore that part).

I found out on my way to work that this custom image somehow reads vehicle speed because it now auto adjusts the volume like the factory radio did. Cool.
 
My truck doesn't have onstar and neither does it have bose speakers, but I'd still like to retain those chimes. Will keep looking into this, cause although I don't want to install a third marker stereo, I've got something else going through my mind. Will be making a thread about that soon :2thumbsup:
 

Capote

Gold Supporter
Oil was a bit below the Full mark on the dip stick. So I stopped by Advanced Auto on the way to work to top it off.
 
Got rid of the intake resonator and replaced with a 3" piece of PVC. Took me 30 mins and somehow I had everything laying around except the couplers I had to buy. Coated my frame rails & side step brackets with rust protector and tinted the reflectors on my reverse lights to match my tails.
No pics.... :biggrin:, how you liking the sound without the resonator??
 
My Saab center caps were faded so I ordered some aluminum replacements from ebay (China) for $6.80 with free shipping. They arrived today so I cleaned the caps and applied the new cap stickers that came with double sided tape, plus they have a film to protect the front during shipping. Applied my customary RejeX let them dry for 15 minutes before wiping them off.
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Upgraded the rear blocks on my truck. Rear sits 1" higher now. With no load in it the truck technically measured almost level but for some reason it just "looked" like it was a bit saggy in the rear. Throw any weight in the back and it was worse. So I pulled the factory 1" blocks out and put 2" blocks in.

The factory U bolt nuts were a bit hard to get off, and 3 of the 4 factory U bolts themselves were all chewed up for some strange reason. It was like the saddle had been shifting around and banging on them, though the saddle holes were not damaged and they were certainly quite tight. Weird.
 
Upgraded the rear blocks on my truck. Rear sits 1" higher now. With no load in it the truck technically measured almost level but for some reason it just "looked" like it was a bit saggy in the rear. Throw any weight in the back and it was worse. So I pulled the factory 1" blocks out and put 2" blocks in.

The factory U bolt nuts were a bit hard to get off, and 3 of the 4 factory U bolts themselves were all chewed up for some strange reason. It was like the saddle had been shifting around and banging on them, though the saddle holes were not damaged and they were certainly quite tight. Weird.
Hahaha, I want to do the exact opposite. I don't like how the TB is a bit raised from the back. I'd like it to be nice and flush! :dielaugh:

Other than that, nothing much, went out with my friends to the beach for a nice breakfast

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:2thumbsup:
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I replaced both front hubs with Timkens yesterday, what an easy job and what a smooth and quiet ride.

I seem to have traded a rotor rubbing sound for the dust shield rubbing in right-hand turns.
I say "the dust shield" singular because I already cut the other three off due to rust, only the front driver's side remains. I should have just not re-installed either side since all the front right one does is acts as a spacer.

What a headache. This is now going on a year and 3 months of various brake noises I can't ever seem to solve. I fix one issue and that causes another noise.
 
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