What did you do to your GMT today?

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FWIW, I ran a 200W Alpine amp driving a pair of 12"s off my rear fuse box supply for 3 years with no issues. I know other members have done the same. It really comes down to how much power you're pulling, so you may wanna determine that first. :twocents:
 
Blckshdw said:
FWIW, I ran a 200W Alpine amp driving a pair of 12"s off my rear fuse box supply for 3 years with no issues. I know other members have done the same. It really comes down to how much power you're pulling, so you may wanna determine that first. :twocents:
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Mine is a 250 watt amp...if that helps. It is model DX250.1
 
Painted A rim


Im dipping the interior of the rim have to tackle that. Plastidip is like concrete after over a year of use on one wheel, other 3 have been problem free. All striped ready for paint except the first one who is haunting me
 
Voymom said:
Mine is a 250 watt amp...if that helps. It is model DX250.1
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That's only about 17 additional amps (watts/voltage). I was a little concerned about hooking my system up that way when I started looking around the OS, cuz a lot of the audio guys said not to do that. Then I saw this post. (carries some credibility I'd say :wink:)

the roadie said:
I think the audio junkies are nuts and posted in another thread about my conclusions. There is 125A of constant 12V available for the rear fuse block, but the secret is (discovered by tracing schematics) that MOST of the fuses back there are not fed by that 125A fuse or the big red wire!

Most of the fuses are fed by other wires in the wiring harness, such as from the ignition switch ACC or RUN circuits, which have their safety fuses in the FRONT fuse block. I've drawn 50 Amps from that stud for recharging a deep cycle battery I use for my expedition fridge. I think the audio guys are right to be cautious if they're putting in 1000 Watt amplifiers that draw 100 Amps peak pulses, but for the typical 30-40 Amp loads like a lot of lights or small amplifiers, the rear feed post should be fine. Just carry a spare Megafuse.

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Blckshdw said:
That's only about 17 additional amps (watts/voltage). I was a little concerned about hooking my system up that way when I started looking around the OS, cuz a lot of the audio guys said not to do that. Then I saw this post. (carries some credibility I'd say :wink:)
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The wattage of amps is tricky. That's "Peak Watts" and many amps can't even push that much power. They are often feel good numbers in the watt wars. Just remember, more watts don't equal better sound, and bigger magnets don't equal shit.

When in doubt, you can always do what I did in my towncar...
tc5.jpg

0 Gauge off 200 amp alt (& 200 amp fuse)
 
FWIW old LT had 650RMS 5 channel run off that stud for 3 months while i waited on back ordered wire not a single issue. *idiot tested and certified by stltrailbss*
 
Just received my items in the mail from parts-express to do the "Big 3" upgrade. Hopefully this takes care of my lights dimming when my sub hits.

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STLtrailbSS said:
Painted A rim


Im dipping the interior of the rim have to tackle that. Plastidip is like concrete after over a year of use on one wheel, other 3 have been problem free. All striped ready for paint except the first one who is haunting me
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Looks great! Good luck!

Should leave the centre cap white and get a black bowtie decal in there! Would look sweet
 
05tbowner said:
Installed new shift knob. Might shorten it a little, but will leave it as is for now to get the feel for it. I hope tomorrow to install my clear mirror signals.
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My mod bug likes this even more looking back at it a day later. Hmm... :undecided:
 
Picked up 2 more dash bezels and 2 more cabin air filter doors. Anybody need a caf door?
 
So today I realized my exhaust smells like eggs :mad: I need some help. Should I wait and change my shocks first or replace the cat. Converter
 
Found this sticker on ebay just now, dont know if you SS guys know about it yet but i like it
 

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"corvette engine" sigh
 
Blckshdw said:
That's only about 17 additional amps (watts/voltage). I was a little concerned about hooking my system up that way when I started looking around the OS, cuz a lot of the audio guys said not to do that. Then I saw this post. (carries some credibility I'd say :wink:)
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I'm running a 1400 watt amp off the rear BCM post for about a year and it hasn't been a problem yet. Its powering a 12" sub that can handle 2000 watt peak.
 
So many people don't seem to understand, the number and size of subs makes absolutely no difference in how much power an amp draws. The only thing that matters is the impedance you wire the amp to, and the gain. If you take the same 1000 watt amp and wire up a single 10" sub at 1 ohm, and then later change the system and wire up 2 15's to 2 ohms on the same amp, the amp will be drawing less power.

Not meaning to be a dick, just a pet peeve of mine. Running more subs or bigger subs makes no difference on the draw of the amplifier unless the impedance is changing.
 
Went to Radio Shack yesterday to buy a temp controlled soldering station (they are on sale btw) and the guy was asking what i needed it for. Told him it was add some LED's to my truck and he asked if it could be done to his. I asked what he has and apparantly he drives an envoy. Told him it could be done and gave him the website info, hopefully he comes around!

Slightly related, you don't realize how easy soldering can be until you have the correct tools!
 
Painted the front 2 rims! Doing the last 2 today!!

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Did it yesterday, but rear hatch glass handle delete...
 
dmanns67 said:
No pics!?
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Nope, I didn't stop to think about pictures yesterday lol. Hubby and I spent about 8 hours gardening, and setting up the pool. We were exhausted by the time we shaved the hatch handle thing. I will grab pictures this afternoon.
 
fr34kout said:
So many people don't seem to understand, the number and size of subs makes absolutely no difference in how much power an amp draws. The only thing that matters is the impedance you wire the amp to, and the gain. If you take the same 1000 watt amp and wire up a single 10" sub at 1 ohm, and then later change the system and wire up 2 15's to 2 ohms on the same amp, the amp will be drawing less power.

Not meaning to be a dick, just a pet peeve of mine. Running more subs or bigger subs makes no difference on the draw of the amplifier unless the impedance is changing.
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Oh I understand it, and agree. BUT, I'm adding 2 more subs, and running a completely different amp. The post probably was a bit confusing, as I have been talking to a couple guys on here about it and didn't give any details in the post that you replied to.
But from a shitty amp pulling 1200w (max rating, couldn't even tell you what the rms rating is) @ 2ohm...going to one rated at 1600w rms at 1 ohm, that's not something I'm taking a chance with by wiring from the battery post by the bcm, that's the message the post was supposed was supposed to get across.
 
Alright there you go, that makes a lot more sense now lol. Make sure you have your big 3 done at least, 1600 is a decent amount of power to run on a stock electrical system.
 
I've been thinking the same. :sadface: these damn trucks don't get any cheaper once you pay them off...lol

Btw, roughly how much would a decent upgrade run? (I'm at work, and dodging the warden of a manager that's working tonight)
 
At minimum I would suggest upgrading your front battery (XS Power D3400, Diehard Platnium G34, something like that) which would probably run you $200-250. Not sure about mainland prices but that's about how much they are locally. They do the Big 3 which can probably be done for $50 or less if you buy the wire by the foot and cut / crimp everything yourself.
 
Replaced two tires :hissyfit: Some jackass decided to slash tires up and down the street last night. Didn't seem to be rhyme or reason to the vandalism. Both my passenger side tires were hit, the guy at the other end of the street had his driver side tires hit. Next door neighbor had both their cars egged. Only have on street parallel parking :( Tires had less than 7,000 miles on them
 
mapanch said:
Replaced two tires :hissyfit: Some jackass decided to slash tires up and down the street last night. Didn't seem to be rhyme or reason to the vandalism. Both my passenger side tires were hit, the guy at the other end of the street had his driver side tires hit. Next door neighbor had both their cars egged. Only have on street parallel parking :( Tires had less than 7,000 miles on them
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Damn man sorry to hear that...people can be a real PITA.
similar situation happened to my friend who is a linebacker...last year. They picked the wrong kid. He sat in his truck the next night and the same guys came by to do it again and actually tried to break in, but instead they got acquainted with all 360 lbs of my friend then the cops showed up :popo:. His dad was an all pro linebacker as well haha
 
dmanns67 said:
Thats understandable. Did you buy your own hardware or get the kit from SS Rear Window Handle Delete Pkg SSRWHD
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Nope, just got some bolts and washer's from my husband's work....cost us nothing lol

I will eventually take the bolts and washers off to paint them pink :biggrin:
 
Voymom said:
Nope, just got some bolts and washer's from my husband's work....cost us nothing lol

I will eventually take the bolts and washers off to paint them BLACK :biggrin:
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Fixed it for ya :raspberry:
 
Got my clear mirror signal lenses in today. Put them on, but the driver side isn't sitting right. Will have to play around with it in the morning.
 
05tbowner said:
Got my clear mirror signal lenses in today. Put them on, but the driver side isn't sitting right. Will have to play around with it in the morning.
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How much did you get them for? Everywhere i look they're around $100 and i dont feel its worth it for a little mod like that
 
05tbowner said:
Got my clear mirror signal lenses in today. Put them on, but the driver side isn't sitting right. Will have to play around with it in the morning.
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Now you need to get a set of TXBlazer's LED mirror inserts! High quality product and much better than a single 194 LED bulb.
 
Ryda55555 said:
How much did you get them for? Everywhere i look they're around $100 and i dont feel its worth it for a little mod like that
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I bought them on eBay for right around $100. Had to buy them individually, so the seller gave me free shipping on one of them, so it was right around $90. The seller only has one set left. There a great mod, and they seem to be getting harder and harder to find.

Oh, and I ordered this afternoon new drilled and slotted brake rotors and new pads. Should be on by this time next week!
 
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