Power steering line removal and replace

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Replacing that fuse won't fix it. If that is a ground wire, it'll just blow again. Trace that wire to where it goes. If it goes to the block, I would connect it to the battery.

That fuse won't do anything for you unless you connect that smaller red wire to it and even then, will only benefit a trailer with a battery for charging.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Well just put everything back together
.and you're right @Mooseman changing the fuse didnt work..i have to touch that wire somewhere on the block..i put it here and it starts but now i have a new problem..this wire here came off and i dont know where this one goes..and im getting p1516 and it'll start but struggles to stay running then shuts off and engine reduction light is on
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
It also works if i connect it to the neg battery terminal..im thinking i just attach it to this bracket here..good thing ive been soaking it in vinegar for a few days..here's the b4 and after..or get one of these top post adapters and put it on the battery
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Can anyone tell me where exactly is the tac module on the 4.2..i did a quick search and saw some info on here for the 5.3..but if anyone knows it would save me some time..im on the clock now..gotta get her done by friday
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
I got these pack of eylets and attached one to the end of the G105 to put on bracket or terminal
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Is the TAC module located on/in the throttlebody?

That is correct. I'd get your grounding issues fixed first. Clear the codes and see.

You have to see where the other end of that fat wire goes. If it goes to the block, then I would assume it needs a direct ground at the battery.
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
There should be 2 wires coming from the battery's ground lug, One going to the fender beside the battery(G101), the second going to a bolt on the firewall side of the strut frame (G106) which continues to the engine at G110.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Stand down red alert..forgot to reconnect the pcv hose and the hose that goes to the brake booster from the intake mani..thats what happens when you work in the dark while tired..reconnected them and ran fine..did stutter a couple times but ill see how it goes on the test drive
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Clear the codes, then disconnect the battery for a 1/2 hour, than take it for the test drive.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
Well just put everything back together
.and you're right @Mooseman changing the fuse didnt work..i have to touch that wire somewhere on the block..i put it here and it starts but now i have a new problem..this wire here came off and i dont know where this one goes..and im getting p1516 and it'll start but struggles to stay running then shuts off and engine reduction light is on
check the ETC fuse... you might have caused some problems while "playing" with the wiring / fuses / box.

...oops forget this post as I see you had a vacuum problem that was found.. maybe although not sure how the posted "solution" helped with the p1516 code. Probably just a loose connection from playing with the intake manifold and stuff.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
And found the connection for that new disconnected wire.. looking back at old pics it looks like was never connected properly anyway..and since that connects to the trailer screw it might be the aftermarket whatever they put in ..im thinking alarm..that would explain the horn behind the grill
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@TollKeeper i had to take out the alternator again to get the pcm bracket back in..i just wanted to do a quick "connect the important stuff and see if itll work" b4 i put everthing back together..so battery is out everything is in just gotra screw down the battery tray and we'll see
 

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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Uhm... That horn... Thats an Air Horn. I would be looking around for a air tank, and air compressor.. That looks like the same ones we use on our Semi-Trucks. Should be NICE AND LOUD!
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Shes running fine..started up 3 times..and didnt evenconnect that loose ground anywhere..it just started up i dont know whats up with that..but back to the original reason for the post and dammit shes leaking power steering fluid
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Gonna take a look see where its coming from..while under there i noticed the lines on the rack itself were really rusty..but its probably where i put those new lines in so might just remove all the stuff there so can get a better angle on it.the the knuckle and coilover..that inspection camera gonna come in handy
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Leaking from the pressure hose side connecting to rack..it must of moved some when i was lining up the hoses to go in thier brackets
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
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I think im good...used the blunt end if this chisel and prybar and hammered it in a little and bent and twisted the hose a bit with my hand..the bracket is back in flush on th rack, the resevoir is full and this pic was taken with the engine running those spots are from what was left on the frame.gonna put the tire on stick in the new abs wire hopefully that gets rid of the abs/brake light..and take it for a ride
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
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Wish i didnt touch that intake mani..everytime i fix something on this thing it causes some other problem..got p0171 now and 5 other codes pending.including the p0017 that i solved before
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
And look at these fuel trim numbers..i have never seen them so high..
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
That's because you're running lean and it's trying to compensate by dumping extra fuel. You likely have a vacuum leak. did you use new intake gaskets?
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Looking at some of the p0171 codes discussions on here.hoping i just forgot to connect a hose somwhere
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
The small hose under the airbox wasnt seated all the way at the point that meets the airbox..pushed it in and fuel trims are back to normal..cleared codes..gonna put in that abs now..didnt get to do it last night..and see whats next
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
All good..drove it up and down a few blocks 3 times and had it idling while i cleaned it out and fixed some interior cosmetics that needed replacing..some door trim,clips cup holder inserts etc. And no check engine light and none pending
 

coolride

Member
Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
It leaks like a small river. I think this is the return line to the cooler (closest to viewer,) and the line with the leak. Obviously that bracket is toast. Can these lines be replaced with flex hose?
ps2.JPG

ps1.JPG
 
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Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
You can if you just want it to survive for a little while longer, though I'd try to put some sort of a flair on the ends so that it'll hold a bit better than just sliding it on the hard line. Even the return side of the PS system does develop some decent pressure when it heats up since there's no vent, and it'll be enough to eventually blow a line off of just a straight cut line.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I've used hard brake line with compression fittings with success. Hard part is getting to clean unrusted old line.
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Only one I could find.. Sticker shock again.. 16 plus 13 ship

 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
If it's the big one on top of the shock tower with the big piece of rubber that retains water and rusts the lines, ditch it. I just zip tie the lines to the remains of that bracket. Eliminates the source of the rust.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
Hard to believe that genuine GM parts are necessary. Can anyone recommend a good after market supplier?
Hard to believe that genuine GM parts are necessary. Can anyone recommend a good after market supplier?
Not really a "high runner" part in terms deployment and design. Unlikely to find much cheaper replacement just because nobody would spend the effort to manufacturer outside of GM and its suppliers. You can try using a "bow tie" like DIY design using the "plumbing hanger strapping" which can be either gavanized or copper based. Basically, have the strap come together in two "U's" with the ends meeting / aligning in the middle where you then pass your bolt thru (pick your length well to align the holes) and thus holds ends AND goes thru the main base portion of the strap and ultimately back into the hole where the frame point is. Probably cost $1 IF you have strapping already or 5-6 $ if you have to buy a roll from HD.
 

coolride

Member
Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Here's a look at the shock tower lines. I've got half a mind to patch the segment that's leaking, but might seriously consider replacing everything, if there was a good quality aftermarket option.
ps3.JPG
 
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