Power steering line removal and replace
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
- Start date
Didnt get anything done today but for good reason..when i tell u i hit the jackpot yesterday..in an attempt to get more organized with my tools i went on craigslist to look for a tool cart..found a moving sale for Saturday.totaly forgot about it since i was working in the lines....remembered yesterday so i figured ill go check it out.when i got there this lady had an entire garage full if unopened ford partts an tons of trans fluid...i inquired about the cart i saw in the corner and lady said "u know what take whatever u want dumpster is coming tnrw its all going in the trash, no money"so i loaded up the envoy and borrowed a van and went back this morning 5hrs later..ive got i think i counted 10 of these torque converters about 200 parts that im gonna have to google the part numbers all in unopened boxes..so if any one needs anything let me know..its all ford though
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Yeah, zip tie makes them stop coming apart when you're trying to get them into the rack. Using a fully threaded bolt instead of the stock one also make the job a lot easier. With the thread started you can use a long thin screw driver to rotate the lines into position, you can probably have a third person do this from the top as you watch and run down the bolt.
Edit because I didn't see the second page: Yeah, those look like the correct cup seals.
xavierny25
Member
Going by the look of the old seals I'd have to say that either the rack &pinion was replaced at some point our there was a leak and the seals got swapped out. My Envoy and the trailblazer SS seals didn't look anything like that on the way out they fell apart on the way out and some pieces stood inside the rack. I had to dig it out with pick tools and a turkey baster to suck the small pieces out.
Well done @Uncleenvoy seem like there's not much more to get done but get them cup seals on lined up and bolted, fluid filled up and air out the system and you'll be good to go.
Gotta say this is one of the more frustraing jobs ive done so far..but im getting there..got the bracket bolt started but since the bolt i bought doesnt have a lip it kept getting recessed into the socket so i stuffed the socket with paper towel and i had the zip tie on the side of the bracket facing the engine but of course that blocked the hole to get the bolt in so took off the zip tie and put one on the side of the bracket facing the rack then put the seals on the hoses cause they kept falling out of the rack..so now gonna put another zip tie back on the engine side remove this one and try to figure a way to manipulate these hoses into place..and wouldnt you know it that was my last zip tie..off to home depot i go
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Tip on the zip tie, put it on above the manifold, tight enough to keep it from coming apart, loose enough you can wiggle the socket onto the bolt head, it's a balancing act for sure.
And yeah, this ranks up there with the trans cooler lines and the alternator on my 00 Cougar in frustration I've encountered.
And yeah, this ranks up there with the trans cooler lines and the alternator on my 00 Cougar in frustration I've encountered.
I think ive got it..used this pry bar to push up on the high pressure one while using my left hand to push down on the other one..didnt take off the zip tie though..gonna cut the zip tie screw it down some with this bolt then put in the original 8mm
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Mooseman
Moderator
The lower one at the steering gear, GM-SI says 29 lb-ft. The upper one at the steering column is 37 lb-ft
This friggin connecetion here nearly gave me an aneurysm..i just couldnt get the thread going..even took the pump back off and put it on while on the ground to make sure i didnt crossthread it or damage it ir something during disassembly..it went in but when i put the pump back in it wouldnt catch..wasnt getting the right angle i guess but i swore i wasnt gonna stop till i got it..thought i was gonna be out here till sunrise..but its in..tmrw put in battery,bleed and test for leaks
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Mooseman
Moderator
Best way to bleed air out is to fill the reservoir, jack the front end and turn the wheel lock to lock without the engine running, refilling as needed. Repeat several times. Bleeds most of the air out without running the pump with air.
Cool..thanks for the tip..i thought the engine had to ne running in order to pump out the old fluid
Gonna do a full flush to get the old stuff out of the rack..this us the first video that came up
Mooseman
Moderator
I guess so. PS fluid might just be tranny fluid with no red rye in it but selling for much more. Or it might have other additives just for PS. All GM vehicles use PS fluid except for my '11 Caprice, made by Holden, that uses Dex VI tranny fluid. In the old days, PS systems used tranny fluid.
It might just be a money grab. It's your call.
It might just be a money grab. It's your call.
I already bought ps fluid plus got about 50 uonopened bottles from that treasure trove i stumbled into so gonna use those..just curious
Ford at least required ATF as a PS fluid starting in like the late 80's IIRC, and if you tried to use PS fluid it would destroy the PS pump seals and make it really noisy and weak. A lot of other OEM's switched to it as well, it was one less separate fluid they needed to stock on the line. Of course, these days most cars and trucks shy of 3/4 ton use Electric Power Steering, which obviously can't leak. Of course, if a rodent gets into the harness it can mess it up. Worst of the worst though are Electro-Hydraulic PS systems, which use an electric motor to drive a hydraulic pump, creating even more failure points while keeping the old ones.
Got it all back together but no start no crank no radio no windows no doorlok..headights work and i got 11.9 vlts on battery... Gotta be this ground wire..looked in the envoy and its connected to this harness here..i was gonna hot wire the starter with paper clip in relay holes in fuse box but decided that might not be too wise not knowing what else might be connected to this ground
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Did you undo any connectors to get to the rubber bushing holding the lines to the strut tower? Given you have no radio or crank I'm inclined to think that it's not an issue of just one ground being off.
Are you also sure that all the connectors are properly aligned in the PDC? Is there power at all the fuses on the PDC and BCM?
I hate to say it, but this is why I'd still do this job from the bottom rather than the top, 12+ year old harnesses that've been exposed to engine bay heat their whole lives are often not the most pliable and durable when being flexed in large bundles.
Are you also sure that all the connectors are properly aligned in the PDC? Is there power at all the fuses on the PDC and BCM?
I hate to say it, but this is why I'd still do this job from the bottom rather than the top, 12+ year old harnesses that've been exposed to engine bay heat their whole lives are often not the most pliable and durable when being flexed in large bundles.
I didnt undo any connectors for the fuse box but maybe when i flipped it up to get to the hoses somthing came loose..ill check that as well
And yes, Body Control Module is under the rear driver seat. It's what controls a lot of functions since it's both a computer and a fuse panel.
I didnt check for power there..figured its not getting any since all those things arent working. Thought maybe that loose wire waa the ground for that
All connections at pdc are fine..ive seen no disconnected connectors here and looking at old pics..the only things disconnected from pdc were the middle red wire ang 2 grounds on drivers side body..but considering the length if this rogue wire and just noticed it has a harness clip its got go somewhere deeper or farther
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Gonna pull it out take it to the dealership act like i want to by a new one and see where its supposed to go and what the other end looks like..hey i might actually need a new one because im sure that loose end just doesnt just stick in like that whereever its supposed to
Definitely the cause of the problem..guy at the dealership didnt even know..he had to call gm..its the engine ground..connects to the back of the cylinder head..put the key in and in the run position and jury-rigged the wire with a vise grip and wire clamp and soon as i did that the truck started making the ping pong noise it usually makes on startup..windows worked and it started..sais that there should be an eylet like the one on this end still on the engine..over time they get corroded or loose..so either im gonna have to find somewhere safe to attach this or im gonna have to dig in there and find the connection..i did valve cover gasket on the envoy once and im not looking forward to having to remove that intake manifold..we'll see..now i know what and where im looking for and at, ill see if i can find it without having to take too many things off..getting dark so tmrw it is
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JayArr
Member
Mooseman
Moderator
