Power steering line removal and replace

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
2006 trailblazer..after disconnecting the power steering pump in order to take out the vvt solenoid for a p000917 p00014 check engine code it looks like ive agitated these rusty power sterring lines..truck was making the classic low power steering fluid whining noise (which it was not making when i drove it after the trans rebuild) checked level and fluid reservoir is completely empty..was about to go buy some fluid but then noticed these lines and how the rubber here is newly wet..which i know wasnt there b4 cause i saw those rusted lines b4 and was wondering what they were for..well now i l know..so here we go..this damn truck damn truck...the gift that keeps taking
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
B4 i get into it..anybody ever use any of those "power steering fix" treatments..is that an option?
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Yeah 4 get it..not an option i found a bottle of fluid that i had..put some in and its gushing
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Got as far as just getting the rubber spacer off last night..
 

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JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
I did mine with the engine out and they were still a pain in the ass. Do some reading of the different posts here, there are different kinds of seals and you need to make sure you remove an old seal that may be inside the line at the rack or the new seal won't seal and it;ll leak and you need to start over.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Looks to be a project, and all that rust is the enemy...

I know they make rubberized power steering hose, and it is cheaper than the OE replacements. But I am not sure how hard of a project this is.
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
The hard part is access to the connection point at the rack, it's not easy to get to or see. There's an octopus of wiring harness in the way and it's at the bottom of the engine bay below the starter. I seem to remember that the old seal will stay stuck in the rack section and you have to use a pick to get it out without nicking the seat of the rack. Some people couldn't see it and incorrectly assumed it wasn't there and when they went ahead and assembled with the new type line/seal and it would leak because the old seal was still in the way. In the end it's not rocket science but it's not easy either.
 

Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
Not to brag, but I'm something of an expert by now.

Things to buy, 2 quarts of PS fluid, at least 1x M6x1x20mm bolt, replacement lines WITH seals

0 Park the truck with at least 6 feet of clearance on the driver side and 2 on the passenger side, put the steering wheel in a neutral position, then loop the seat belt through the wheel and click in place, disconnect battery, pull the battery (2x 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut for support bar, 1x 13mm nut for hold down) and battery tray (like 6x 13mm bolts, two on top into the fender, 2 low in front, and 1 or 2 low on the passenger side of the tray into the wheel well) Pull the air box and washer fluid reservior too (3x philips head screws, 2x 13mm nuts, 2x electrical connections, 2x hose connections) and set it somewhere where it won't leak. Pulling the fan and shroud would definitely be helpful at certain steps too.

1 Jack up the car as high as you can and pop off the drivers wheel.

2 Remove the aeroshield under the engine, 4x 13mm bolts

3 Pull back the flap at the top rear of the driver wheel well and with a 15mm socket remove the bolt from the steering shaft linkage

4 Remove the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles, usually a 21 or 22mm nut, then hammer on the knuckle where the tie rod goes through while lightly prying up on the tie rod, a few good taps and she should pop right out.

5 Remove the shield under the steering rack, should be 6x 15mm and 4x 21mm bolts underneath, and 2x 15mm bolts behind the rack.

5.5 Remove the 8mm bolt holding the lines into the rack and pry the lines out, drain any fluid left in the lines. Hint: Two 4-5" wobble extensions work pretty well for this, it gets you over the CV shaft.

6 Using a 13/16's spark plug socket (the type with a hex on the end) on the nut (forward end of the car) and a 21 or 22mm socket on the bolt, unbolt the two bolts holding the rack in place, pull the bolts and drop the rack. Tip here, drop the passenger side about 5 inches then the rack should come down vertically just fine. With the rack out do NOT touch the steering shaft, you do not want it to move at all if possible

7 Carefully support the rack so it's not resting on the pressure lines, use a flat blade screw driver to pop out the old cup seals, and install the new cup seals by tapping them in with a small hammer and a socket, my horror fright 3/8's socket was just a bit too wide, the 9mm would have been best probably. Reinstall rack in reverse of removal, congrats, you've got the hard part done, some locktite on the steering shaft bolt can't hurt.

Have a drink of water, gotta stay hydrated.

8. Remove the 3x 10mm bolts holding the line to the body, one underneath the harmonic ballancer, 2x on the frame rail. If the ones in the rail snap you can replace the J clips easily enough, but your brackets there are probably screwed up anyway.

9 Remove the return line from the cooler, it's just held on with a clamp. Remove the pressure line from the pump with a 17mm flare wrench, this might've been a 16mm and my set for some GD didn't have 16mm, can't remember. Make sure the o-ring comes out of the pump with the pressure line. If replacing the line from the cooler to the, this is held on with a hose clamp on the back of the pump, be careful with the reservoir, that plastic is brittle.

10 Using bolt cutters just cut off the old lines around where that rubber bushing is that caused them to rust out in the first place, the pull the rack ends up and out, then the pump ends out through the driver wheel well, this will sorta teach you how you need to fish them back in.

11 Fish the pressure line through so that the line crosses under the fan if you didn't remove it. Pry it up and over the strut tower, and leave the rack end resting on top of the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder.

12 Fish the return line in toward the front corner of the car under the frontmost crossmember of the frame, the pry it up over the strut tower.

13 Get the return line into the bracket on the pressure line, then zip tie them together, and feed them down toward the rack.

14 Using the new M6 bolt you picked up, start the threads into the rack and pull the tubes up close to the rack. Before you start touching get a long narrow flat head screw driver and come up from underneath the vehicle with it in your right hand and get it between the pressure line and the bolt, this will allow you to manipulate the angle of the hoses relative to the bracket, then continue to tighten with your left hand. You need to make sure that the hoses go in straight visually, having good lighting is imperative for this step.

14.5 Tightening the manifold to the rack you'll feel it tighten up a good bit, then go slack again, before repeating it, this is the pressure line seal and then the return line seal being pierced, then you'll tighten till it's nice and firm, remember don't go full gorilla on an M6. Note, if you get the "new design" hoses which use an o-ring on the pressure side, this won't be the case, only the return line will need to be pierced.

15 Making sure that the o-ring is on the pressure line, screw the new line into the pump. If you're replacing the line from the cooler to the pump, make sure to transfer over the bracket holding both lines to the frame crossmember, and reinstall that.

16 Reattach the lines at the cooler and fill the reservoir up with fluid.

17 Reattach the washer tank lines and electrical connectors, then bolt it back down, reinstall air cleaner assembly.

18 Reinstall the fan if you removed it, and the battery tray and battery.

19 check that the fluid level is good, top off if needed

20 Unbuckle the belt you put through the wheel, and turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times, check fluid level again and top off if necessary.

21 Start the car for a few seconds, shut it down, check fluid and top off as necessary.

22 Start the car again, and turn the wheel from lock to lock, pausing at full lock, keep this up till the whining goes away, checking for fluid level and leaks as you go.

23 Once satisfied with the sound and fluid level, make sure everything is buttoned up and cleaned, and go have another drink of water. Love me some water.
 

Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
The hard part is access to the connection point at the rack, it's not easy to get to or see. There's an octopus of wiring harness in the way and it's at the bottom of the engine bay below the starter. I seem to remember that the old seal will stay stuck in the rack section and you have to use a pick to get it out without nicking the seat of the rack. Some people couldn't see it and incorrectly assumed it wasn't there and when they went ahead and assembled with the new type line/seal and it would leak because the old seal was still in the way. In the end it's not rocket science but it's not easy either.

To expand on some things hinted at in my above post and mentioned by Jay here;

Pressure side seal always comes out with the line, return always stays in tha rack, F-ing way she goes. Frankly, just pull the rack, not worth it to try to finagle it out. You can pull the rack shield and get an M10 into the seal and pull it out, but then you've already done over half the work to pull the rack out.

Accessing the manifold bolt is best done using a couple of wobble extensions over the top of the CV shaft using your left hand while watching around the other side of the knuckle. Don't bother reusing it, just replace it with a fully threaded M6 bolt of the same length, pretty sure it's 20mm long.
 

Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
It's actually not that bad, once you know what you're doing. I can have the rack in and out in 2 hours now that I've broken all the bolts loose.

In case you missed my other thread, perfectly reasonable to not read EVERY single thread...

My 04 Envoy sprung a leak just like yours, so I grabbed a set of lines after reading one of the threads here thinking it'd be a one day job. Got everything apart okay, but could not get the seal out of the rack, nor the new one in, deciding to put it down for the day I struggled for an hour to get the factory manifold bolt in because it's got 10mm of unthreaded point on it. Jacking it up off the jackstand though the jack squished the rusted out frame and I decided the car wasn't worth the effort.

A few weeks later I pick up my TB, and it too needed lines.

I get those in and out along with other work the car needed, rather fast, pulling the rack like I say above to replace the seals, but at some point, probably tapping in the seals, I must have damaged the pressure lines since the rack wants to rest on those lines, so when I got everything back together it was leaking. So since those lines aren't available I had to replace the whole rack. First rack I get from Detroit axle is damaged in shipping, that goes back, get a reman'd one from Orielly's, that goes in, seals up just fine, I finish the rest of the work, go to get it aligned since I replaced the rack, they say put ball joints on then we'll talk. So I put on most of a front end kit, except tie rod ends which were already new, go to park it and it's got no power steering, can't for the life of me find where it's going, go park it where I can safely find the quart of fluid without getting yelled at, and it's all in the steering shaft boot!


That's what came out the next week when I was putting in the third, and hopefully last rack.

And to add one final insult, the warranty replacement rack came with the wrong inner tie rod end, so I had to dig into that front end kit anyway for one.
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Not to brag, but I'm something of an expert by now.

Things to buy, 2 quarts of PS fluid, at least 1x M6x1x20mm bolt, replacement lines WITH seals

0 Park the truck with at least 6 feet of clearance on the driver side and 2 on the passenger side, put the steering wheel in a neutral position, then loop the seat belt through the wheel and click in place, disconnect battery, pull the battery (2x 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut for support bar, 1x 13mm nut for hold down) and battery tray (like 6x 13mm bolts, two on top into the fender, 2 low in front, and 1 or 2 low on the passenger side of the tray into the wheel well) Pull the air box and washer fluid reservior too (3x philips head screws, 2x 13mm nuts, 2x electrical connections, 2x hose connections) and set it somewhere where it won't leak. Pulling the fan and shroud would definitely be helpful at certain steps too.

1 Jack up the car as high as you can and pop off the drivers wheel.

2 Remove the aeroshield under the engine, 4x 13mm bolts

3 Pull back the flap at the top rear of the driver wheel well and with a 15mm socket remove the bolt from the steering shaft linkage

4 Remove the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles, usually a 21 or 22mm nut, then hammer on the knuckle where the tie rod goes through while lightly prying up on the tie rod, a few good taps and she should pop right out.

5 Remove the shield under the steering rack, should be 6x 15mm and 4x 21mm bolts underneath, and 2x 15mm bolts behind the rack.

5.5 Remove the 8mm bolt holding the lines into the rack and pry the lines out, drain any fluid left in the lines. Hint: Two 4-5" wobble extensions work pretty well for this, it gets you over the CV shaft.

6 Using a 13/16's spark plug socket (the type with a hex on the end) on the nut (forward end of the car) and a 21 or 22mm socket on the bolt, unbolt the two bolts holding the rack in place, pull the bolts and drop the rack. Tip here, drop the passenger side about 5 inches then the rack should come down vertically just fine. With the rack out do NOT touch the steering shaft, you do not want it to move at all if possible

7 Carefully support the rack so it's not resting on the pressure lines, use a flat blade screw driver to pop out the old cup seals, and install the new cup seals by tapping them in with a small hammer and a socket, my horror fright 3/8's socket was just a bit too wide, the 9mm would have been best probably. Reinstall rack in reverse of removal, congrats, you've got the hard part done, some locktite on the steering shaft bolt can't hurt.

Have a drink of water, gotta stay hydrated.

8. Remove the 3x 10mm bolts holding the line to the body, one underneath the harmonic ballancer, 2x on the frame rail. If the ones in the rail snap you can replace the J clips easily enough, but your brackets there are probably screwed up anyway.

9 Remove the return line from the cooler, it's just held on with a clamp. Remove the pressure line from the pump with a 17mm flare wrench, this might've been a 16mm and my set for some GD didn't have 16mm, can't remember. Make sure the o-ring comes out of the pump with the pressure line. If replacing the line from the cooler to the, this is held on with a hose clamp on the back of the pump, be careful with the reservoir, that plastic is brittle.

10 Using bolt cutters just cut off the old lines around where that rubber bushing is that caused them to rust out in the first place, the pull the rack ends up and out, then the pump ends out through the driver wheel well, this will sorta teach you how you need to fish them back in.

11 Fish the pressure line through so that the line crosses under the fan if you didn't remove it. Pry it up and over the strut tower, and leave the rack end resting on top of the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder.

12 Fish the return line in toward the front corner of the car under the frontmost crossmember of the frame, the pry it up over the strut tower.

13 Get the return line into the bracket on the pressure line, then zip tie them together, and feed them down toward the rack.

14 Using the new M6 bolt you picked up, start the threads into the rack and pull the tubes up close to the rack. Before you start touching get a long narrow flat head screw driver and come up from underneath the vehicle with it in your right hand and get it between the pressure line and the bolt, this will allow you to manipulate the angle of the hoses relative to the bracket, then continue to tighten with your left hand. You need to make sure that the hoses go in straight visually, having good lighting is imperative for this step.

14.5 Tightening the manifold to the rack you'll feel it tighten up a good bit, then go slack again, before repeating it, this is the pressure line seal and then the return line seal being pierced, then you'll tighten till it's nice and firm, remember don't go full gorilla on an M6. Note, if you get the "new design" hoses which use an o-ring on the pressure side, this won't be the case, only the return line will need to be pierced.

15 Making sure that the o-ring is on the pressure line, screw the new line into the pump. If you're replacing the line from the cooler to the pump, make sure to transfer over the bracket holding both lines to the frame crossmember, and reinstall that.

16 Reattach the lines at the cooler and fill the reservoir up with fluid.

17 Reattach the washer tank lines and electrical connectors, then bolt it back down, reinstall air cleaner assembly.

18 Reinstall the fan if you removed it, and the battery tray and battery.

19 check that the fluid level is good, top off if needed

20 Unbuckle the belt you put through the wheel, and turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times, check fluid level again and top off if necessary.

21 Start the car for a few seconds, shut it down, check fluid and top off as necessary.

22 Start the car again, and turn the wheel from lock to lock, pausing at full lock, keep this up till the whining goes away, checking for fluid level and leaks as you go.

23 Once satisfied with the sound and fluid level, make sure everything is buttoned up and cleaned, and go have another drink of water. Love me some water.
Why bother pulling the rack? I did it just like the service manual says to by pulling the fuse box and battery tray... wasn't nearly that difficult, just time consuming. Ratcheting wrenches are your friend.....
 

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Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
Well maybe I didn't know that it was an option!

Also, my arms are actually pretty short, and there's still not much room for a hammer down there to tap the new seals in.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
I got the hoses disconnected from the rack and from the cooler and out of the brackets just to see what im dealing with @coolasice thanks bro that pdf cleared a lotta things up..gonna get at the battery tray, pump end connections and front crossmember bracket
 

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coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well maybe I didn't know that it was an option!

Also, my arms are actually pretty short, and there's still not much room for a hammer down there to tap the new seals in.
I have gorilla arms, was easy for me... didn't need to tap the seals in on mine, they just slid right in on the return line... pressure side I used new style hose so didn't need to replace the seal.
And who the hell has a j×××× tool sitting around
if you use the new style hose you just have to remove the pressure seal... 1/4" wrench will pop it out easy.
 
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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Got the one on the drivers side out ..went pretty smooth..took way longer than it should of to get the batt tray out rusted bolt and really miss my air compressor..dark out continue in the morn
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
off topic but anybody know where this ground wire supposed to connect to?it was just loose up in there or maybe it was loosely connected to some thing cause i barely tugged it and no resistance and it came out
 

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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
@Uncleenvoy the one you got out is the low pressure that goes to the cooler connected with a simple spring clamp. The pressure line goes straight to the pump and has the fitting and seal on the end of the line as the rack side.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
That ground wire, maybe for the hood?
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@Mooseman ill look into it..ill check my envoy and check the manuals..if anything new acts up when i put her back together than that ground wire will be the first thing i check
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@Mooseman it attaches to the firewall. Wondwring were the other end supposed to go
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Looks loke im going to have to take the pump out..this line does not want to come out..on it over an hour and only 2 or 3 threads..and it looks like its stripping and now its in a position where i cant loosen it because the pulley stops the wrench and i cant reset to grab it cause the wheel well blocks the wrench
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Look at that..5 mins to take out pump and 1 min to cut hose 2 mins to get this pita out
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
I was gonna buy the new style lines from advance they're 20bux more but looking at the nightmare its gonna be to take out those old seals..im just gonna get the regular style hoses and use the old seals..if it leaks then ill just disconnect the hoses and drop the rack
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Gonna have to go get a long ass 1/4 inch wrench then cause my hands aint getting in there.ill give it a shot..im picking up the replacement hoses right now at advances i dont know if they come with new seals
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
They came with new seals..whats this yellow thing for?doesnt say on the package
 

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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Those are the new style lines, I wish you luck with those. I tried a set on my brother-in-law's SS and it was a nightmare. We ended up getting the original style and those went in with no issue.

The yellow cap was attached just to protect one end of the line. Think it should of came on the line going to the rack as your fishing it to where it needs to be before final assembly.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@xavierny25 are you sure..check advanced if u can for a closer look..the one i got is the $89 one its part #37545 the $106 one is part#37155
 

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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
@Uncleenvoy looking closer and your right the once you purchased are the original style with the cup seals. I saw the green o ring and thought otherwise but thats the side to the pump.:bonk:

Carry on you've got this! :2thumbsup:
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Gonna have to go get a long ass 1/4 inch wrench then cause my hands aint getting in there.ill give it a shot..im picking up the replacement hoses right now at advances i dont know if they come with new seals
i used a short wrench? maybe 5" long? stand on a stool/pail and lean in over the fender, reached no problem? being 6'2" and having gorilla arms can be a perk sometimes.

Those are the new style lines, I wish you luck with those. I tried a set on my brother-in-law's SS and it was a nightmare. We ended up getting the original style and those went in with no issue.

The yellow cap was attached just to protect one end of the line. Think it should of came on the line going to the rack as your fishing it to where it needs to be before final assembly.
what problems did you have? Mine went in no problem, just had a small leak at the rack...
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
i used a short wrench? maybe 5" long? stand on a stool/pail and lean in over the fender, reached no problem? being 6'2" and having gorilla arms can be a perk sometimes.


what problems did you have? Mine went in no problem, just had a small leak at the rack...

Having 2 set of eyes on it and going from underneath on a awd v8 with long tube headers was the real issue. We just couldn't get it to seat right. With the oe style they just landed in place with no fuss. Maybe removing the bracket and pulling down the rack would of been the way to go but after a day and 1/2 of trouble shooting and swapping out the starter on it had us just wanting to get it rolling again.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Got them back in there just gotta bolt everything back in now
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Easier said than done..cant get the hoses line up to go in the rack..gonna zip tie them together at that bracket where it goes in the rack and see if that helps stop the one from slipping out of the bracket.also found plenty of access when approached from under car going at it from left of the front driveshaft..i can probably get the seals out now..try again first light tmrw
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
Hi Uncleenvoy

Take a look at my old thread from when I did this and double/triple check the seals they sent you. This is a hell of a job in it's pickiness you don't want to have to do it twice if you can help it.


The o-ring is for the pump end.

I went and looked under my hood for that ground strap but I don't have it. I have two studs like your pic shows but one of them has never been used. Maybe the ground strap was something someone added later?
 

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