Mooseman
Moderator
PO442
- Thread starter Stuntmanmike1977
- Start date
Well I got the lines off breaking the clips in the process but couldn't figure out how to get it out. So, I just pushed lines back on. Getting replacement clips later. Idk. There was no fuel in liquid form but it had a strong gas smell.
Good Idea... No sense in "Trying On New, High Top Sneakers... While Wearing DIRTY Socks..." By The By... You KNOW this "Pearly Gates Part" of the lecture already... But JIK... NEVER use Pure O2 to Blow Out any Fuel Lines or any Clogged and-or Fuel Soaked Charcoal Canister. For obvious reasons, use Low Pressure Compressed Air or even better, Dry Nitrogen is the Best Choice of ALL. :>)
Last edited:
Thanks everyone. Just got new clips so, putting in the new canister today. Can't really blow out the lines cause I don't really have access to all of them. Let you know what happens at the pump.
First... The Very BEST Video covering the explanations on the differences between the various Fuel and Evap System Lines and the "How To" repair and HOW TO REMOVE THESE DAMNED CLIPS are covered in Post #6 in this Thread:
gmtnation.com
...with THIS Video (Well Worth, Downloading, Saving and Playing at 1/2 Speed to see all of the subtleties in action):
More from GM ...
Broken Evap Line Repair:
Second... The other unique aspects of trying to clear the offending line (probably clogged with Carbon Dust coming from the Charcoal Canister) is covered in THIS excellent On Topic "How To" Video":
Help with fuel line fitting please? I’m dying’ here.
Hey Guys, Two questions about fuel tank removal. I know I have to disconnect a line or two and and an electrical connector, then lower the tank a bit and disconnect some other things before I can drop it down entirely. My first question is can I lower the tank down at all even two or 3...
gmtnation.com
...with THIS Video (Well Worth, Downloading, Saving and Playing at 1/2 Speed to see all of the subtleties in action):
More from GM ...
Broken Evap Line Repair:
Second... The other unique aspects of trying to clear the offending line (probably clogged with Carbon Dust coming from the Charcoal Canister) is covered in THIS excellent On Topic "How To" Video":
Last edited:
The lines are unclipped. The canister itself I can't pry out mainly because the shop that replaced my leaking fuel filter connector ran a regular fuel hose right underneath the canister and curved it around it to a new connector to the filter instead of using a 90 degree fitting or replacing the line itself from the filter to the tank. Got the screwdriver in the slot and twisted it but not far enough to release it from the frame. I don't have much room to work with. The shop wants 200 to get it out. Not paying that. The fuel filter is right next to it so not much room for prying.
Finally got the new canister in. What a pita! Could not blow out the lines though. Will do that when I drop the tank for the fuel pump. Any extra connectors or parts I might want to have on hand just in case something breaks? Only have one chance at this since I'm not doing the job at home. Fittings and or connectors that like to break? If anyone has part numbers by chance would help Immensely. I don't want to do it but, can't find anything else it would be.
Mooseman
Moderator
Sometimes the plastic fuel line connector on the pump gets stuck on the rusty metal fuel line and destroys it when removing it. The plastic ring gets destroyed during removal. You may need to replace it and use a push on splice.
The clips also break a lot.
The clips also break a lot.
Can you open this Image into a Microsoft Paint Program (or similar graphics editor) and after drawing a Red Circle around the parts you are addressing... Post that modified image here?
The Complete Replacement Hose assembly is available on Amazon via this Link:
...and the Evap Canister Purge Line too...
The Complete Replacement Hose assembly is available on Amazon via this Link:
...and the Evap Canister Purge Line too...
Attachments
Last edited:
Can you just run regular fuel injection hose and clamps instead of messing around with the quick disconnect set-up or will it not hold up?
Probably... Especially if your driving motivation here has to be more about economics than about doing things properly.... Necessity is often a "Stone B***h" in such circumstances. But I am reluctant to add my contributions towards doing anything that involves controlling Explosive Fuel Vapors that side-step Normal Repair Protocols by using Non -OEM Replacement Components in lieu of the "Real Deal Parts" that are often called for. If you have to eventually visit an Inspection Station ...and they *Spy* that 'Off- Brand Solution' buttoned up under there... it might draw the wrong kind of attention to the issue... and a Hefty Fine if the Inspector takes a dislike to you... :>(
Last edited:
Mooseman
Moderator
I wouldn't recommend it since it's high pressure fuel from the pump and the metal line at both ends doesn't have a bump or lip to prevent it from slipping off.
Well, unfortunately the new vapor canister did absolutely nothing! Guess I wasted 130 bucks. Pump shut off at 3.6 gallons and came up the fill tube. Before I drive this into the river, does anyone have any more advice for me? The only thing I have not changed out was the solenoid on the side of the engine and the fuel tank pressure switch?
Mooseman
Moderator
Roger THAT ...and while we are on the subject of obtaining an Affordable Bi-Directional Scan Tool... consider visiting THESE eBay Links to the GM VXDIAG VCX NANO Device that will allow for the use of a Laptop Screen and a Program that can "View and Emulate The Tech 2 --- To A "T"..."
Visit THIS link for additional information on the VXDIAG NANO Device:
gmtnation.com
Vxdiag Nano GM for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for Vxdiag Nano GM at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com
Visit THIS link for additional information on the VXDIAG NANO Device:
Additional Tech 2 & VXDIAG Nano Resources
EDIT: On November 11th, 2019, :I created a TOC (Table of Contents) of the Video Files shown consecutively in the following Threads that should help to speed the identification of Specific On Topic Videos vs. having to Read and Watch each one in sequence to locate what the Viewers need. The...
gmtnation.com
Last edited:
You know this operational description already, Mike... But as an FYI for those either "Lurking" or following this Thread as Members... The EVAP Solenoid mounted on the Driver's Side of the Engine activates on Start Up to evacuate whatever Fuel Vapors have been previously accumulated inside of the Charcoal Canister. As soon as the Motor turns over, the presence of that strong vacuuming action of NA (Natural Aspiration) sucks those fumes in through the Throttle Body (Intake Manifold) ...ASAP... and this leaves the Charcoal Canister freed up afterwards, ready to absorb more Fuel Vapors whenever needed.
The Fuel Vapors (AND LIQUID FUEL) will accumulate inside the the Charcoal Canister to EXCESS if that Engine Side EVAP does not regularly OPEN and evacuate or function properly. The Fuel and Fumes that back up will become absorbed by the Activated Charcoal Beads-Pellets inside and whenever there is just TOO MUCH Fuel Vapor left over, the EVAP System will post DTCs as per the EPA CARB Standards and insist that the Vehicle Owner-Driver NOT allow all of that stuff to leak out into the atmosphere.
Whenever the Fuel Nozzle *Kicks Off* prematurely while fueling up at the local Gas Station, its sensitivity is set to Stop The Gas Pump ASAP whenever it determines the slightest resistance to the in-flow of Gasoline or before the Pump Dumps Fuel all over the feet of any absent-minded Drivers. It serves as an Early Warning and Fueling Safety Apparatus built by design to ensure that all of us are maintaining our Closed EVAP Systems up to par at all times... and what better way to do this than by simply... Stopping The Flow of the Gas... and providing us with a cascade of P04XX Codes?
The Fuel Vapors (AND LIQUID FUEL) will accumulate inside the the Charcoal Canister to EXCESS if that Engine Side EVAP does not regularly OPEN and evacuate or function properly. The Fuel and Fumes that back up will become absorbed by the Activated Charcoal Beads-Pellets inside and whenever there is just TOO MUCH Fuel Vapor left over, the EVAP System will post DTCs as per the EPA CARB Standards and insist that the Vehicle Owner-Driver NOT allow all of that stuff to leak out into the atmosphere.
Whenever the Fuel Nozzle *Kicks Off* prematurely while fueling up at the local Gas Station, its sensitivity is set to Stop The Gas Pump ASAP whenever it determines the slightest resistance to the in-flow of Gasoline or before the Pump Dumps Fuel all over the feet of any absent-minded Drivers. It serves as an Early Warning and Fueling Safety Apparatus built by design to ensure that all of us are maintaining our Closed EVAP Systems up to par at all times... and what better way to do this than by simply... Stopping The Flow of the Gas... and providing us with a cascade of P04XX Codes?
Last edited:
As far as the fuel pump change, I don't know exactly what I have as far as connections on the fuel pump. Was going to buy new ends just in case something breaks. Do I need the pinch tab and pull type or the U shaped plastic clip type or does it matter? And is it 1 3/8 connector and 1 5/16?
Given what a PITA it is to access and R&R... replacing EVERYTHING both On Top of... at the Rear of ... and Inside of that Fuel Tank while the doing of it is actually fairly easy... while using only The Best of the OEM Parts and Pieces that are available ...Makes Perfect Sense... Assuming that our Folks' Wallets ...can take the monetary hit.
Last edited:
If you are using just the Fitting Pieces to accomplish a variety of replacement EVAP Plastic Tubing Repairs... The Best Advice would be to "Belly Up at the Parts Counter at Auto-Zone" and after providing the necessry Vehicle Data to the Counter-Person... Ask them to:
"Make a Pile of EVERY Possible Fitting that I might need to use ...AND... Give me a Roll of the Dorman EVAP Tubing for BOTH Sizes... and I'll bring back whatever I have not used for a Refund."
This way... You won't need to make more than Two Trips...One Before doing all of the Necessary Work ...and One Afterwards in order to Return Whatever You Don't Need ... :>)
PS...Ask them if they also have any "Loaner Tools" for Mechanically Inserting those EVAP Hose End Pieces into the Plastic EVAP Tube Sections... and save yourself the Headache of trying to FORCE them all the way inside!
"Make a Pile of EVERY Possible Fitting that I might need to use ...AND... Give me a Roll of the Dorman EVAP Tubing for BOTH Sizes... and I'll bring back whatever I have not used for a Refund."
This way... You won't need to make more than Two Trips...One Before doing all of the Necessary Work ...and One Afterwards in order to Return Whatever You Don't Need ... :>)
PS...Ask them if they also have any "Loaner Tools" for Mechanically Inserting those EVAP Hose End Pieces into the Plastic EVAP Tube Sections... and save yourself the Headache of trying to FORCE them all the way inside!
Last edited:
There are only Two Kinds of Cheap, After-Market, *** Non-OEM Fuel Pumps:
(1) Those that HAVE Failed...
(2) And... Those that are GOING to Fail.
*** Bosch, ( SCRATCH ----> Delphi ) and ACDelco... in THAT Order!
(1) Those that HAVE Failed...
(2) And... Those that are GOING to Fail.
*** Bosch, ( SCRATCH ----> Delphi ) and ACDelco... in THAT Order!
Last edited:
Mooseman
Moderator
Just for future reference, I would remove Delphi as a recommended brand as there have been documented failures of new units here.
Well, I stopped at the pump and shoved 10 dollars in the tank. BAD fuel smell in the cabin. Checked the fuel pressure regulator, lines, filter all dry. Fuel however spilled over leaking down the back driver side quarter panel right near the outside vent in the back of the truck. I'm guessing that's where it's coming from so I covered it with tape. I'm guessing that's it. Turned the heater on and no smell from the vents so. Anything else I can check cause I'm taking it to get the seat fixed in the morning and it's almost unbearable to drive.
Mooseman
Moderator
At this point, I would suspect a problem with the filler neck valve in the tank. Either it's stuck closed or it's missing allowing the tank to get overfilled and spew fuel out the filler. I had that problem on the Avalanche where the valve broke off in the tank, it would overfill the tank and allowed fuel to get sucked into the charcoal canister. I had to replace the tank. For the TB, there are filler neck replacement kits available.
Will try that again. The gas tank was replaced with a new one about a year ago. Replacing all the sensors when they get here and gonna make sure the flapper is still free. And, before I put the fuel pump in should I coat the top plate and the lines so they don't rust or can I fluid film it when the lines are back on before I put it back up?
I need the clips and or connectors that attaches to the lines to the fuel pump. I can't have any leaks. Should get o rings too I guess.
Mooseman
Moderator
I've never replaced the O-rings unless they came with replacement fuel lines. They are special and AFAIK, not obtainable separately. The clips are available from Dorman.
Do you have a part number by chance? And what about painting or coating the top plate of the fuel pump? Can I fluid film that? Sorry for all the questions I'm doing this at someone else's house and theoretically only have one shot at this.
