I'm gonna re-do both wiper arms tomorrow with primer first. I'm used to not using primer because the majority of my painting has been done on parts that aren't smooth to begin with.dmanns67 said:Yeah man I know what you mean. It took me a while to get my side mirror covers perfect.
Auto Zone and Advanced Auto both sell adhesion promoter.
I stopped using Plastidip on a lot of parts a while ago, doesn't hold up well on small pieces that are touched daily, like door handles and etc. I used to have my interior door panels dipped, but that it failed to hold up, so then I just painted it, but now the paint is discolored in various spots from being touched with dirty hands or chemicals. I'm about to say fuck it and buy black interior door panels for all four doors that way I never have to worry about scratches or random discolorationsdmanns67 said:I used it on my front grille and mirror covers. I used plasti dip one my rear bumper step pad, wiper cowl, and wiper arms. No primer needed, just cleaned the surface with some rubbing alcohol.
If the plasti dip does not hold up through the winter, next Spring I am going to use some gloss black paint with a thick clear coat.
djthumper said:The problem with using flat paint is that unless it is a two-part paint it doesn't hold up well to any handling. Oils from your fingers will give it a glossiness. If you paint it a satin and use a clear coat over it then it will handle it much better and maintain its appearance longer. You still need to sand it for best adhesion, this includes the promoter for plastics.
dmanns67 said:Everything I have painted, other than using plasti dip, has involved sanding and clear coat.
I assumed Capote used clear coat on his interior pieces. That might explain why they are not holding up.
Likely not allowing it to dry enough between coats or the paint is not mixed enough... I use to see this with new guys in the shop when they put too much thinner into the paint and trying to put too thick of a coat on too fast.Capote said:The glossiness didn't come from my fingers, after a certain ammount of layers it took on a glossy look, but overall gloss black on the small dash pieces would look better so taking that route now. All the large interior pieces like the pillars, and cargo area will remain flat black. The center console will be flat black too. The cargo area has held up extremely well without any sort of clearcoat, i'm sure a lot of stuff has hit the back door and not a single scratch as of yet i'm glad to inform.
The humidity was the factor I didn't consider today, my usual dry time didn't work out this time between coats, I believe that's why today I havn't achieved desired resultsdjthumper said:Likely not allowing it to dry enough between coats or the paint is not mixed enough... I use to see this with new guys in the shop when they put too much thinner into the paint and trying to put too thick of a coat on too fast.
I painted in the Florida humidity numerous times.Capote said:The humidity was the factor I didn't consider today, my usual dry time didn't work out this time between coats, I believe that's why today I havn't achieved desired results
If you can paint in Florida's humidity, you can paint anywhere.djthumper said:I painted in the Florida humidity numerous times.
Make my car shake.Playsinsnow said:You'll be the one hearing it. If it sounds clean go for it. I like Dmanns fabricated setup for a single sub.
What is your goal with the subs?
And you can?Porkins said:You can't talk to these old ass ladies like that.
Or the muffler pipe right after highway crusin' to see if it's going to fall off.Mounce said:Note to self: don't grab the wrong part of a hot soldering iron.
r1894 said:Or the muffler pipe right after highway crusin' to see if it's going to fall off.