LED Mod Thread

Mektek

Well-Known Member
Some were too bright so I attenuated them by blacking them out with a black marker. Even completely blacked out, enough light gets through. Suggest you try a little at a time. I'm lucky in that I have a spare connector and able to power up the lights. I turned off the lights in the kitchen before calling it good. You could probably do the same using small connectors to the pins.
I used a higher value resistor to set the brightness. When the led was pulling 20ma it was too bright - a larger resistor dropped the current to 10ma and the brightness was perfect.
 
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Blckshdw
Does anyone have the polarity diagram for an auto hvac?Will be doing my dads Yukon by the weekend! Thanks
This can be your assignment for this weekend. You can either use a meter to test for polarity while the module is plugged into the vehicle, or use a resistor soldered to an LED, since it'll only light up when the polarity is correct. Record your findings, and post them here for future members. :thumbsup:
 
This can be your assignment for this weekend. You can either use a meter to test for polarity while the module is plugged into the vehicle, or use a resistor soldered to an LED, since it'll only light up when the polarity is correct. Record your findings, and post them here for future members. :thumbsup:
Also you may want to start a full sized thread for LED mods. Or we could just start a new one in the general forum for all and point back to this one. This thread is getting quite large.
 
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Blckshdw
I am facing a weird issue when trying to wire up my DRL strips. I have them wired as below with red being positive and black negative. When I have them as pictured below nothing occurs. However when I switch the red and black the strips work until the ignition is turned on! Any ideas, I'm stumped 😒

20180418_172930.jpg
 
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Blckshdw
I am facing a weird issue when trying to wire up my DRL strips. I have them wired as below with red being positive and black negative. When I have them as pictured below nothing occurs. However when I switch the red and black the strips work until the ignition is turned on! Any ideas, I'm stumped 😒
The post you connected the black wire to is not a ground, that's your problem. It's supposed to be used to supply accessory power to a trailer. Your current circuit, when the wires are reversed, is using your ignition source as ground, but when you turn the key on, you have 12V on both wires, so no go...

You should have a factory fender ground just to the right of the mega fuse, in this pic. Piggy back your ground connection there, and things will work properly.
 
The post you connected the black wire to is not a ground, that's your problem. It's supposed to be used to supply accessory power to a trailer. Your current circuit, when the wires are reversed, is using your ignition source as ground, but when you turn the key on, you have 12V on both wires, so no go...

You should have a factory fender ground just to the right of the mega fuse, in this pic. Piggy back your ground connection there, and things will work properly.
Thank you!! I thought I was losing it! I wanted to move the ground to there, but I didn't have the right size bracket to open it. Will get back tmrw with more and what I've been working on this week 😊
 
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Blckshdw
I've messed around with putting LEDs in my headlights a couple of different ways. Heat will shorten their lifespan considerably, so you may want to periodically check the strips after you've run this setup for a bit. I expect the LEDs in closer proximity to the projector to fail first. :mad:
 
The ones I used in mine worked fine for the entire time I had them (except one diode did get a little dimmer than all the rest), but they were down in place of the factory turn signal area so thermally insulated from the projectors, and were stuck to an aluminum plate that acted as a large heatsink.
 
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Blckshdw
The ones I used in mine worked fine for the entire time I had them (except one diode did get a little dimmer than all the rest), but they were down in place of the factory turn signal area so thermally insulated from the projectors, and were stuck to an aluminum plate that acted as a large heatsink.
:iagree: When I had the switchback strips as turn signals on the bottom and sides, those lasted until I sold the headlights as well. They were mounted to strips of leftover acrylic. But the eyebrows and demon eyes I've tried didn't have such luck. The demon eyes on the current retro lasted longer, as I had them on front of the foreground limited of the projector, so they weren't in direct HID exposure, but they did get the ambient heat all the same. :frown: