LED Mod Thread

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
I think this would look sick. Relocate the turn signal to the clear reverse part of the lens. Use a switch back bulb to perform double duty of turn signal and reverse light. Replace the turn signal with an additional brake light.
20170618_130207.jpg
So this is the lay out as of now. I've got stock bulbs up top for running and brake 3157 then it's a red 3157 led for turns the lower on which I can't remember the bulb # is a weak as white led for reverse.

I know I can do a quad run brake on the top 2 but the lower I'm alright with the way I wired it into the lower bumper reverse lights. Just want better light output.

I'm looking into spider but I'm still thinking it over.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
I think this would look sick. Relocate the turn signal to the clear reverse part of the lens. Use a switch back bulb to perform double duty of turn signal and reverse light. Replace the turn signal with an additional brake light.
:undecided: I wanna say somebody did this, it was forever ago, and on the OS, but I'm pretty sure someone modded their Voy setup this way after acquiring some Ascender tails.
 

Capote

Platinum Supporter
:undecided: I wanna say somebody did this, it was forever ago, and on the OS, but I'm pretty sure someone modded their Voy setup this way after acquiring some Ascender tails.
It was two members from somewhere in Europe who did the mod because they didn't want to have to use the ugly Amber version of the GMT360 tails.
 

RTTBLT1

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone

Hate to bring this up again but need to upgrade our rear Taillight bulbs since the cheap EBAY LED bulbs I got are already dead.

Looking into a purchase on Superbrightleds.com but need some input/help since I'm confused with all the different LED'S available. What I do know is I need SRCK/CK for the middle Sockets and I don't need any Reverse/Back Up Bulbs as I just purchased and installed some 1200 Lumen JDM's.

According to Superbrightleds.com I should get Red LEDs for the Brake/Parking & Turn Signal Sockets...
Screenshot_20171013-143655.png
But confused since factory, GM installed clear bulbs. Also, there website claims the Red CK Bulbs only produce 46 Lumens...???...
Screenshot_20171014-071447.png
Im just looking to get about 2 to 3 times brighter illumination over stock/factory from the rear Taillights.

So my questions are...

1. Should I get Red LEDS or Clear/White LEDs for the Brake/Parking & Turn Signal Sockets?

2. Do all the LED Bulbs I purchase/install need to be CAN BUS including the SRCK/CK?

3. Can I install SRCK/CK in all the rear Sockets?...or should I just install those in the middle Sockets and get regular 3157's for the others?


Any help and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
SRCK in the middle, regular in the other. Unless you have modded boards like mine and can just run regular in all of them.

I'm going to hit up Kevin for some new ones because I'm currently running 2 different styles...cheap ebay ones took a shit.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
Get red LEDs to go behind red lenses, otherwise you WILL have pink lights, just like the pic you posted. Also, our trucks do not have a CAN BUS system, so that can be disregarded in your purchasing factors.
 

RTTBLT1

Well-Known Member
Ok. So do you guys think the Red LEDS with 46 Lumens will be any brighter than the factory/stock setup?...or should I find a higher Lumen LED?

Also, the reason I was wondering about CAN BUS...once I installed a set of rear LEDs in both the Brake/Parking & Turn Signal Sockets and it made the Turn Signal indicators on the Instrument Cluster stay dimly lit at all times...what causes that?...and that was with the LED LM486 Lighting Control Module installed.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
46 lumens is pretty dim. The bulbs in the picture you posted are basically one step up from the dimmest bulbs made, go with some brighter ones so that people can see your brake lights so you won't get rear ended. The brighter the better.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
once I installed a set of rear LEDs in both the Brake/Parking & Turn Signal Sockets and it made the Turn Signal indicators on the Instrument Cluster stay dimly lit at all times...what causes that?...and that was with the LED LM486 Lighting Control Module installed.
That's caused by back feeding, from the parking signal into your turn signals. I believe this was happening to you through your 194 LED bulbs, as that's where there is a direct connection between those 2 circuits.

The reason the backfeeding went away when you put the incandescent bulbs back in, is because they require more current, and effectively acted like load resistors.
 

RTTBLT1

Well-Known Member
That's caused by back feeding, from the parking signal into your turn signals. I believe this was happening to you through your 194 LED bulbs, as that's where there is a direct connection between those 2 circuits.

The reason the backfeeding went away when you put the incandescent bulbs back in, is because they require more current, and effectively acted like load resistors.
So will this continue to happen with all LED'S?...and if so, how can I get around it without removing the LED 194 Bulbs?

I was just worried it would prematurely burn out the Turn Signal indicator lights on the IC.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
So will this continue to happen with all LED'S?...and if so, how can I get around it without removing the LED 194 Bulbs?

I was just worried it would prematurely burn out the Turn Signal indicator lights on the IC.
Possibly, depends on the LEDs. Depending on if your LEDs don't have built in diode bridges (makes them function without polarity), you could simply flip the bulb around. They would not come on with the parking lights, only with the turn signals. Downside to that, is that during the daytime, your parking lights could flash with the turn signals, although at a much dimmer brightness level.

Now the solution I mentioned before, with the switchback modules takes most of the thought out of the equation. There will be 3 inputs, (turn signal, parking lights, and ground) and 2 outputs for the bulb.

Currently the 2 signals use each other as a ground point, instead of having a dedicated one, which is what the switchback module adds for you, separating the signals from each other.



The challenge comes in determining how you want to physically hook the module up. When I did this mod the first time, I bought the Delphi connectors to go between the 194 harness, and the 194 bulb holder.

They are pretty pricey, so when I went to do it the 2nd time around, I went with a cheaper route, and bought some empty 194 bulb bases, fed wires through the bottom of the base, then filled them with silicone to keep the wires from shorting internally. Fed the wires into a 194 twist lock pigtail (I think they were for a Ford), and used an exacto knife to shorten the rubber twist lock teeth to fit into the headlight. I can't find any pics, so not sure if I took any of that part, but it was WAY cheaper than getting the Delphi connectors. :yes:
 

RTTBLT1

Well-Known Member
Possibly, depends on the LEDs. Depending on if your LEDs don't have built in diode bridges (makes them function without polarity), you could simply flip the bulb around. They would not come on with the parking lights, only with the turn signals. Downside to that, is that during the daytime, your parking lights could flash with the turn signals, although at a much dimmer brightness level.

Now the solution I mentioned before, with the switchback modules takes most of the thought out of the equation. There will be 3 inputs, (turn signal, parking lights, and ground) and 2 outputs for the bulb.

Currently the 2 signals use each other as a ground point, instead of having a dedicated one, which is what the switchback module adds for you, separating the signals from each other.



The challenge comes in determining how you want to physically hook the module up. When I did this mod the first time, I bought the Delphi connectors to go between the 194 harness, and the 194 bulb holder.



They are pretty pricey, so when I went to do it the 2nd time around, I went with a cheaper route, and bought some empty 194 bulb bases, fed wires through the bottom of the base, then filled them with silicone to keep the wires from shorting internally. Fed the wires into a 194 twist lock pigtail (I think they were for a Ford), and used an exacto knife to shorten the rubber twist lock teeth to fit into the headlight. I can't find any pics, so not sure if I took any of that part, but it was WAY cheaper than getting the Delphi connectors. :yes:
Wow, creative!

Just seems like alot to go thur over little pesky 194 bulbs.

What if I purchased new LED Taillight Assembly's like or similar to these...

Check this out at Amazon.com
Spyder Auto ALT-ON-CTB02-LED-SM Chevy TrailBlazer Smoke LED Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005R4KZQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_.544zbVZBVT94

Or would I still run into the same issue with the Turn Signal indicator on the IC staying dimly lit?

Hate to do anyway with the LED 194 Bulbs since they make a HUGE visible difference in illumination. And doubt getting regular Red Incandescent bulbs would help with what I'm going for unless I can find some about double the Lumens of the factory/stock clear Incandescent bulbs :Banghead:...out if curiosity, would you happen to know about how many Lumens the stock/factory Clear incandescent bulbs are that GM installed?
 

RTTBLT1

Well-Known Member
So do you guys think I should...

1. Do away with the front 194 LED Bulbs in favor for LED rear Bulbs?...and try to find a bright incandescent 194 Bulb for the front side markers?

2. Try aftermarket rear LED Taillight Assembly's?

3. Try CAN BUS 194 LED Bulbs for the front side markers?

Just looking to get quality rear LED Bulbs without having to worry about the Turn Signal indicator on the IC staying dimly lit and burning out the bulbs/lights.
 

Mooseman

Moderator

Mooseman

Moderator
Did my HVAC panel since there were only a couple left. Added a splash of colour. I'll put it in the Saab tomorrow. And since the display and dash gauges are green, made them the default colour IMG_20180101_201205.jpg:uhno::stars:
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
Did my HVAC panel since there were only a couple left. Added a splash of colour. I'll put it in the Saab tomorrow. And since the display and dash gauges are green, made them the default colour View attachment 82720:uhno::stars:
Looking great! I wanted to do something like this on my dads Yukon. He insisted we go with the normal 12 V bulbs. Now he regrets it! I'll probably redo his in this same manner once I get back home. His Yukon is the denali trim with green led IC so the same green I want to apply to the Radio and HVAC as well. I'd like to see how it looks at night in the car

:pictures:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Looking at it again, maybe I should have done the temperature dials in blue.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
And those particular ones were harder because I couldn't use the solder sucker to clear the holes. I might try something else. It would also allow me to take pics of the board.
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
And those particular ones were harder because I couldn't use the solder sucker to clear the holes. I might try something else. It would also allow me to take pics of the board.
It's hard the first time due to the bulbs being machine soldered. Gets easier to remove once you've soldered you're own bulbs in. Personal experience 😊
 

Sparky

Moderator
It is also likely lead-free solder which takes more heat to work. I know lead is bad for you, but it is easier to work with and more forgiving.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Redid them to blue. Much better. And I used compressed air to blow out the solder out of the holes. Much easier! And here some pics of the board.

Another thing was an issue with the fan Rocker where the holes for the light was too small. Reamed it out and it works fine. And the Auto/mode switches, you have to get the Led just in the right spot to get even lighting on both.

I'm happy with this setup.
IMG_20180102_104432.jpgIMG_20180102_104457.jpgIMG_20180102_104400.jpgIMG_20180102_104208.jpg
 
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Shaw520

Well-Known Member
Looks good,....but complicated,...never was much good at intricate work as such,....give me a BFH !!
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
Redid them to blue. Much better. And I used compressed air to blow out the solder out of the holes. Much easier! And here some pics of the board.

Another thing was an issue with the fan Rocker where the holes for the lift was too small. Reamed it out and it works fine. And the Auto/mode switches, you have to get the Led just in the right spot to get even lighting on both.

I'm happy with this setup.
View attachment 82723View attachment 82724View attachment 82725View attachment 82726

Yessss!!! I'm going to be doing the same on my dads Yukon for sure. Would like to see it installed in the night to see what's the output 👍🏻
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Some were too bright so I attenuated them by blacking them out with a black marker. Even completely blacked out, enough light gets through. Suggest you try a little at a time. I'm lucky in that I have a spare connector and able to power up the lights. I turned off the lights in the kitchen before calling it good. You could probably do the same using small connectors to the pins.
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
Some were too bright so I attenuated them by blacking them out with a black marker. Even completely blacked out, enough light gets through. Suggest you try a little at a time. I'm lucky in that I have a spare connector and able to power up the lights. I turned off the lights in the kitchen before calling it good. You could probably do the same using small connectors to the pins.
Well I guess it ultimately depends on the type of LEDs you buy. If the ones I am able to get are like the one I put in my IC in the TB it should be a nice and subtle effect. I would not like to have the LEDs blasting through the HU and HVAC while driving at night. What type of spare connector do you use to test your LEDs? The only way for me to test them is to run all the way back to the car, plug them in and then check 😖
 

Mooseman

Moderator
I got a spare one out of my defunct '02 TB. Actually kept all the connectors like that to be able to program modules on the bench.

If you can, get LEDs with resistors already soldered. Saves some work and cost is comparable.
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
I got a spare one out of my defunct '02 TB. Actually kept all the connectors like that to be able to program modules on the bench.

If you can, get LEDs with resistors already soldered. Saves some work and cost is comparable.
Excuse my ignorance, but spare what again?? I'm not bothered about soldering resistors into LEDs, hard to find in Saudi as well
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
He cut off the connectors out of another truck. I've done the same in the junk yards, to make powering things up on my test bench easier.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
Ohhh. I see. But then how are the connections wired to ultimately power said unit? This could save me a lot of time with my LED work 😊
There's no one correct answer. You could be using a battery pack, and just touch the wires from the connector to the +/- sides if they are long enough to reach. Or you could solder on extra wire to lengthen them. If you buy a switchable power source (that's what I prefer), they often times come with power leads with alligator clips, that can be clipped to the wires.

IMAG0573_zps7bf9424e.jpg

Some of us computer guys will use spare PC power supplies, mod some of the connectors so we can use the 12V and 5V lines for testing. Basically you need to be able to supply power and ground to the connections on whatever you're modding. How you accomplish that is entirely up to you. :thumbsup:

For some of my higher powered testing, for my projector retrofits, I've used my portable battery booster to power the HID ballasts in the house so I didn't have to go out to the truck. And when that died after a few years, I used my adjustable battery charger the same way (just had to be near an outlet) :twocents:
 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Well-Known Member
I have LEDs on my brush guard, on the roof and I want to hook a set up in the back for reverse lights. I have them wired to switches in the cabin light console. Is there a safe always on hot spot under the hood or somewhere else I can run them to besides straight to the battery? I don't care for how it looks with wires coming from the pos terminal.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
I have LEDs on my brush guard, on the roof and I want to hook a set up in the back for reverse lights. I have them wired to switches in the cabin light console. Is there a safe always on hot spot under the hood or somewhere else I can run them to besides straight to the battery? I don't care for how it looks with wires coming from the pos terminal.
You could tap into the positive post of the rear fuse block, run them through a relay to your switches. That's how I'd approach it.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Not my Voy but this is my idea for puddle/perimeter light for the Voy.20180125_191407.png
These are the lights I picked up for this mod.20180125_191924.jpg
From what I remember when I installed the Denali boards on the Voy there should be plenty of room to pull this off with out removing anything.

To tie this all together I was hoping you guys could tell me which wire id be tapping into to just have these lights kick on when i open a door or hit the the unlock on my key fob.
Thanks for any info on this.
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
I tapped into the dome light wire bundle running up the passenger side B pillar for my scuff plate lights. For hitting the key fob, thinking back to the power folding mirror mod, get a timer relay, to be triggered off the unlock relay in the rear block, and set it for 30 seconds or something? Join the 2 circuits through a pair of diodes to prevent back feeding, and there you go. :undecided:

Edit: I still want some Denali XL running boards :sadcry:
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
Not my Voy but this is my idea for puddle/perimeter light for the Voy.View attachment 82996
These are the lights I picked up for this mod.View attachment 82997
From what I remember when I installed the Denali boards on the Voy there should be plenty of room to pull this off with out removing anything.

To tie this all together I was hoping you guys could tell me which wire id be tapping into to just have these lights kick on when i open a door or hit the the unlock on my key fob.
Thanks for any info on this.
I am planning to do something similar on my TB. It's probably here somewhere when my mind runs wild. I was planning on doing it with an LED strip instead of what you have (less wiring). Best thing to do is tap the interior lighting which is an orange wire. A quick glance at your wiring diagram will give you a better idea.

Really curious to see how it turns out 😁


I tapped into the dome light wire bundle running up the passenger side B pillar for my scuff plate lights. For hitting the key fob, thinking back to the power folding mirror mod, get a timer relay, to be triggered off the unlock relay in the rear block, and set it for 30 seconds or something? Join the 2 circuits through a pair of diodes to prevent back feeding, and there you go. :undecided:

Edit: I still want some Denali XL running boards :sadcry:
Don't the interior lamps go out after said amount of time?! Would save going through all that trouble with a timer relay IMO 😊
 
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Blckshdw

Blckshdw

Moderator
Don't the interior lamps go out after said amount of time?! Would save going through all that trouble with a timer relay IMO 😊
Yes, the dome lights do shut off after a while. Preventative measure to not drain the battery if the engine isn't running. The timer relay was for the function to have them come on when he hits the unlock button.

So if the dome light override is ever used, or if he pulls up somewhere to pick up passengers outside of a restaurant/airport/apartment building/etc, hitting the unlock button will activate the puddle lights as people approach, before the door is opened. :thumbsup:
 

$ Khalid ! 9130

Well-Known Member
Yes, the dome lights do shut off after a while. Preventative measure to not drain the battery if the engine isn't running. The timer relay was for the function to have them come on when he hits the unlock button.

So if the dome light override is ever used, or if he pulls up somewhere to pick up passengers outside of a restaurant/airport/apartment building/etc, hitting the unlock button will activate the puddle lights as people approach, before the door is opened. :thumbsup:

Ahhh, now I get your idea. Sounds like it would look really ice, especially in your scenario 👍🏻
 

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