LED Mod Thread

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

So I have been itching for a while to get some DRL LEDS on the front of my TB, where would be the best place to mount them, cause I don't think they look really good near the headlights with its design......

Where else.....

Also hoping to get the interior LED strips in the car. Ran out of the strip, still debating whether to get the RGB ones or just plain blue to match my dash!

 

[Blckshdw]

where would be the best place to mount them

We would have just as good a shot of telling you which type of woman you'd want to date, what food will taste good, or what style of clothes you think will fit you best. This is something you'll have to decide for yourself, by trial and error.

 

[Sparky]

Aside from not being bright enough due to the strips I used, I liked the setup of mine. But then, it wasn't exactly an easy thing to do.

Silverado is a whole 'nother matter. The easy route doesn't look great, and the way I think would look good is also looking to be rather hard to do and very expensive lol. Hm.

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

We would have just as good a shot of telling you which type of woman you'd want to date, what food will taste good, or what style of clothes you think will fit you best. This is something you'll have to decide for yourself, by trial and error.

Thanks for that, guess I just needed a little motivation to get it done , on a side not the RGB LED strips have four points to solder, I asked a guy at the shop, on how I would be able to mount this on four different places in the TB, he said four wires running from each strip, but when I asked him if I'd have to use 'different' wires he was confused. So I just walked out saying I will check back later.

Anyways it should be alright if I just used one wire, instead of different colored ones?

I hope that makes enough sense

 

[Blckshdw]

Anyways it should be alright if I just used one wire, instead of different colored ones?

It's general best practice to use different color wires for the connections between components. Imagine how close to impossible it would be if you opened the hood, or went to your fuse block and all the wires were the same color.

Of course there's nothing stopping you from doing that, and it's only 4 wires, but if something doesn't work right, or you blow fuses every time you turn them on, it will be a huge pain to troubleshoot. You'd end up having to trace your wires every single time, to find out which one is connected to where.

I know your mod bug is still growing, and I went through this phase myself when first starting out. You'll quickly learn, it's best not to be cheap and skimp on your mods. Do them right the first time, and it will save you headaches and money in the long run.

 

[Sparky]

I've used the same color wires on stuff before, and marked the ends so I knew which was which (red wires with black rings on the ends, for example). But, that only works to identify the wires at the ends. If you have something wrong in the middle, well... good luck lol.

My extra wiring on my headlights was all done with green and red wires - the only colors I had of any usable length - though the controlling relays were done with many colors to keep things straight. Still was an inconsistent mess and coming back to it a year later left me scratching my head what went where. Next project I have that involves running a bunch of wires someplace will have me buying one of those multi packs of spooled wire from Amazon that has 10 different colors!

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

It's general best practice to use different color wires for the connections between components. Imagine how close to impossible it would be if you opened the hood, or went to your fuse block and all the wires were the same color.

Of course there's nothing stopping you from doing that, and it's only 4 wires, but if something doesn't work right, or you blow fuses every time you turn them on, it will be a huge pain to troubleshoot. You'd end up having to trace your wires every single time, to find out which one is connected to where.

I know your mod bug is still growing, and I went through this phase myself when first starting out. You'll quickly learn, it's best not to be cheap and skimp on your mods. Do them right the first time, and it will save you headaches and money in the long run.

Yep all valid points I've been taught already not to go for the cheapest way and then expect it to be great. another final question I have is if I plan on wiring it to the interior lights circuit, how would four wires meet up with only two

 

[Blckshdw]

Next project I have that involves running a bunch of wires someplace will have me buying one of those multi packs of spooled wire from Amazon that has 10 different colors!

For my power folding mirror mod, I used orange and blue, for the same reason. Royal pain when I had to troubleshoot one of the circuits only going half speed. :banghead: so I ordered that big wire spool pack too!

another final question I have is if I plan on wiring it to the interior lights circuit, how would four wires meet up with only tw

Interior lights as in dome lights, or modules back lit when the parking lights come on?

Edit: I guess it doesn't matter. You can join the positive leads at the same connection point. Ditto with the grounds.

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

For my power folding mirror mod, I used orange and blue, for the same reason. Royal pain when I had to troubleshoot one of the circuits only going half speed. :banghead: so I ordered that big wire spool pack too!



Interior lights as in dome lights, or modules back lit when the parking lights come on?

Edit: I guess it doesn't matter. You can join the positive leads at the same connection point. Ditto with the grounds.

Nothing better than trial and error I guess

On topic though, looking at these for DRLs at the moment

 

[Capote]

Nothing better than trial and error I guess

On topic though, looking at these for DRLs at the moment

View attachment 80854

Those look real rinky-dink man..... Where are you wanting to mount a set of DRL's?

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Pictures are better than a thousand words

 

[Capote]

Pictures are better than a thousand words

View attachment 80863

Your better off putting another set of fogs there IMO

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Your better off putting another set of fogs there IMO

That's actually quite interesting, but there are the tow hooks there......

Also have these available online as well



Not a fan of these really....

In other words I was also researching on ways to actually wire them up and I saw this method of tapping into the fuse box

 

[Capote]

That's actually quite interesting, but there are the tow hooks there......

Also have these available online as well

View attachment 80864

Not a fan of these really....

In other words I was also researching on ways to actually wire them up and I saw this method of tapping into the fuse box

View attachment 80865

Those kind of DRL look ugly when they're not lit up.
Don't wire them up like that, use an "Add-a-Circuit"/"Add-a-Fuse"

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Those kind of DRL look ugly when they're not lit up.
Don't wire them up like that, use an "Add-a-Circuit"

Yep, have a TB in the neighborhood who has them on the bumper, light output is nice, but looks terrible during the day.

If I was to wire them I would go the add a circuit route, I was actually surprised when I saw the method to tap a fuse with the wire, I was like is that even safe. I guess my best bet at this time would be to go to a local store and look at the options and prices etc. and buy one, cause, I know that if it didn't work as expected I can just go and return it without any hassle

 

[Sparky]

Problem with a lot of the cheap add-on DRL units is... they're cheap, dim, overly blue, or a combination of that.

Good ones seem to cost an arm and a leg.

I've been searching for something I can use on the Silverado the way I want, but, the only one that actually fits right is like $300

 

[Capote]

IMO it's better to have a retrofit done with some sort of DRL setup within the headlight housing, for a more "factory" look. Otherwise it looks too awkward, atleast on our trucks.

 

[l008com]

My DRL plan (if i ever do my projector retrofit) is to put some 4500K 3157's in the high beam bays and wire them up to ignition power. For DRLs, they don't have to be super bright, so that should be cheap and very effective.

 

[Capote]

My DRL plan (if i ever do my projector retrofit) is to put some 4500K 3157's in the high beam bays and wire them up to ignition power. For DRLs, they don't have to be super bright, so that should be cheap and very effective.

That'd be interesting to see

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

IMO it's better to have a retrofit done with some sort of DRL setup within the headlight housing, for a more "factory" look. Otherwise it looks too awkward, atleast on our trucks.

I'd planned to get some cheap ok looking del in place until, I get me some new headlights, then go for a retrofit. Its been on my mod list, just really really at the bottom of it

 

[gpking]

I just had both of my brake light bulbs fail (more than 75% of SMD's dead/flickering) within a 3 day period.
When the first failed, I swapped my remaining good one into the opposite socket (to make sure it was just a bad bulb) and now 3 days later that bulb is dead too.
I popped regular incandescent bulbs in so I had taillights on my way to work this morning, and the questionable socket does not have brake functionality (or at least some dude from Louisiana who was smoking in the parking lot where I work said it didn't).

So is this just a coincidence both bulbs failed, or is there such thing as a bad socket/board?
I know our boards were recalled (and mine got replaced under the recall), but do they ever fail?

(I think I jinxed myself by posting in a different thread that I have had no trouble at all with my taillight LEDs in the 2 years I have had them).

 

[Capote]

I just had both of my brake light bulbs fail (more than 75% of SMD's dead/flickering) within a 3 day period.
When the first failed, I swapped my remaining good one into the opposite socket (to make sure it was just a bad bulb) and now 3 days later that bulb is dead too.
I popped regular incandescent bulbs in so I had taillights on my way to work this morning, and the questionable socket does not have brake functionality (or at least some dude from Louisiana who was smoking in the parking lot where I work said it didn't).

So is this just a coincidence both bulbs failed, or is there such thing as a bad socket/board?
I know our boards were recalled (and mine got replaced under the recall), but do they ever fail?

(I think I jinxed myself by posting in a different thread that I have had no trouble at all with my taillight LEDs in the 2 years I have had them).

The boards can go bad, I replaced my driver's side board a few years ago. Even happened on my '97 Yukon as well. Just one of those things.

 

[Blckshdw]

So is this just a coincidence both bulbs failed, or is there such thing as a bad socket/board?
I know our boards were recalled (and mine got replaced under the recall), but do they ever fail?

Check the sockets and see if there's any corrosion on the contacts. If there is, that will cause added resistance in the circuit, which means more heat than usual. Heat kills LEDs, and will eventually melt the plastic of the socket if it goes unchecked.

If you wanna dig deeper, you could split the 2 plastic shells that contains the metal traces and check to see if there are any breaks or problems in there.

 

[gpking]

It must have just been a dirty pin. I moved bulbs around and they're working fine. That eliminates the socket at the culprit. I think both LED's just had life expectancies suspiciously close to the mean.

They lasted 2 yrs/30,000 miles/750 hours (if my math is correct). Not good considering LED should well outlast incandescent.

Any recommendations on good time-tested replacements? CK is preferable, but I know how to modify non-CK bulbs if need be. I just don't want to be replacing brake lights every 2 years.
The bulbs they are replacing were stupid bright, so I'm looking for similar output without breaking the bank.

 

[Matt]

Get in contact with Kevin...@DFWWIZ

 

[Blckshdw]

Get in contact with Kevin...@DFWWIZ

I think it's safe to say he retired from us almost 2 years ago.

 

[gpking]

Get in contact with Kevin...@DFWWIZ

I think it's safe to say he retired from us almost 2 years ago.

Could be gone... But that reminds me, I last contacted him 3/23/15 through email.
(Back then) he said he does group buys of Phillips brand LEDs (not sold in the US at the time?) on the 1st of every month. He claimed to have sold nearly 100 sets of LED headlights at the point when I contacted him and that users were happy with them.
So that at least points me toward a reputable brand.

I just did a quick search of Phillips' 3157 offerings, and the first result is natively CK and non-CK compatible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2D41LE/?tag=gmtnation-20
What really caught my eye is the 12 year warranty.

Any Philips Vision LED light that fails as a result of a product defect in non-commercial application during the 12-year period after purchase is covered by the PHILIPS limited warranty. Register your product by mailing in this form within 30 days of purchase to benefit from our 12-year limited warranty. Jurisdictions in which warranty benefits cannot be conditioned on registration will automatically receive the 12-year limited warranty. Your statutory rights to non-defective goods remain unaffected.

HOWEVER, reviews aren't that great.

For $5 more, I can get a set of JDM ASTAR 3157 non-CK with the best reviews of any bulb in the $20 price range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHUMFEW/?tag=gmtnation-20
Might go with these instead because they look like the bulbs I am replacing.

 

[Mounce]

Could be gone... But that reminds me, I last contacted him 3/23/15 through email.
(Back then) he said he does group buys of Phillips brand LEDs (not sold in the US at the time?) on the 1st of every month. He claimed to have sold nearly 100 sets of LED headlights at the point when I contacted him and that users were happy with them.
So that at least points me toward a reputable brand.

I just did a quick search of Phillips' 3157 offerings, and the first result is natively CK and non-CK compatible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2D41LE/?tag=gmtnation-20
What really caught my eye is the 12 year warranty.

HOWEVER, reviews aren't that great.

For $5 more, I can get a set of JDM ASTAR 3157 non-CK with the best reviews of any bulb in the $20 price range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHUMFEW/?tag=gmtnation-20
Might go with these instead because they look like the bulbs I am replacing.

The bulbs he was getting was Chinese made claiming to use Phillips chips. Not Philips branded.

However those jdmastar bulbs you listed, those use my favorite chips to date and are stupid bright. I use the style like this in my mustang. 6 red in the rear and two switchbacks for the front, if you miss my braking/signaling it's your own fault lol.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JU9LPUU/?tag=gmtnation-20


However those Phillips bulbs you listed I am running in the brake lights or turn sigs (can't remember) and they're good and reliable but not much brighter than standard incan. really.

 

[Matt]

You can get a hold of him through FB. Kevin Hanson. I have had troubles with my front indicators not blinking when the lights are off. Got hold of Kevin and his bulbs simply worked. I didn't do anything but plug them in, so for me, he's the go to guy.

 

[djthumper]

I think it's safe to say he retired from us almost 2 years ago.

View attachment 80946

He hasn't been here in that time but I can tell you he is staying busy and still supporting the products. You don't even need to go on FB to contact him. Though it is very basic you can contact him through http://dfwizleds.wixsite.com/leds

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

I think that's perfect right there!!!! Can't wait till I get the projectors. Might as well stick them on top the headlights for now. Any ideas on how to hide the white 'base' of the led strip? I was thinking about colouring it with a marker after removing the covering

 

[07TrailyLS]

So are you trying to add a led strip on top of the lens? Sorry just trying to figure out what you want to do

 

[Sparky]

They won't last long stuck to the outside, they're not likely weatherproof right?

On my old TB I used black flexible strips instead of white.

 

[Capote]

You're better off hiding them on top of the headlights. If you leave them there the sun will fade the coating over the LED's into an ugly yellow haze. There's not gonna be any decent way to really cover up the white portion of the strip. That's why I always get ones with a black finish. If you peel off the coating that is keeping them weatherproof how're you properly going to seal them back up?

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

So are you trying to add a led strip on top of the lens? Sorry just trying to figure out what you want to do

NO!!! I was just checking how long I should cut the Led strips when I do the retrofit. With the projectors I want that strip going across the same position inside the headlight assembly, as DRLs

They won't last long stuck to the outside, they're not likely weatherproof right?

On my old TB I used black flexible strips instead of white.

They are weatherproof, but if I remove the covering/coating then they wont be waterproof. I will try to find black strips, but again might be really hard to get over here

You're better off hiding them on top of the headlights. If you leave them there the sun will fade the coating over the LED's into an ugly yellow haze. There's not gonna be any decent way to really cover up the white portion of the strip. That's why I always get ones with a black finish. If you peel off the coating that is keeping them weatherproof how're you properly going to seal them back up?

I was thinking since they would be inside the headlight assembly, after the retrofit, shouldn't really matter if they are weatherproof or not right if the headlight itself is sealed right

 

[Capote]

NO!!! I was just checking how long I should cut the Led strips when I do the retrofit. With the projectors I want that strip going across the same position inside the headlight assembly, as DRLs



They are weatherproof, but if I remove the covering/coating then they wont be waterproof. I will try to find black strips, but again might be really hard to get over here



I was thinking since they would be inside the headlight assembly, after the retrofit, shouldn't really matter if they are weatherproof or not right if the headlight itself is sealed right

Ohh well in that sense it'd be fine, you didn't clarify that these would be inside the headlight assembly.

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Ohh well in that sense it'd be fine, you didn't clarify that these would be inside the headlight assembly.

Yeah I guess I could've put it across better

 

[Blckshdw]

I had the same issue when I built switchbacks for my side mirrors. The PCBs were white and I wanted them black, behind the tinted lenses.



So I used electrical tape, lightly over the top, and used a razor blade to cut out the squared shape of the 5050 led. Then pressed the tape down, and here's how they turned out.



If you're up close you can see the LEDs when they're off, and the wires. But once you're a few feet away, you can't tell at all.

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

I had the same issue when I built switchbacks for my side mirrors. The PCBs were white and I wanted them black, behind the tinted lenses.

So I used electrical tape, lightly over the top, and used a razor blade to cut out the squared shape of the 5050 led. Then pressed the tape down, and here's how they turned out.

If you're up close you can see the LEDs when they're off, and the wires. But once you're a few feet away, you can't tell at all.

Yeah I knew someone would've thought about this!!! When I do mine I'll do them this way for sure. Thank you master

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Thanks to @Blckshdw for giving me the led strip idea that got me thinking of doing something to the brake lights. My idea is to use a breadboard, cut it to the shape of the rear tailight circles, put strips of leds from the top to bottom of the board and then wiring them up to the brake light sockets. Comments are welcome