DFWWIZ Cree/Philips LED headlights

TexazReece said:
Are those the one's with the new drivers? I'm currently waiting on mine to come in lol :biggrin:
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Yep! I ordered mine just before the Chinese New Year, so I had to wait a while...
 
Mine are getting installed tomorrow.
 
I wanted to order the 2400 lumens but went on and purchased the 3600 lows/fogs and see how I'd like them. Will adjust the angles at which they point to avoid blinding anyone on the road. I really appreciate Kevin for offering the crees for our trucks.
 
Darkrider_LS said:
Mine are getting installed tomorrow.
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Mine are getting installed tonight... Right after I go through the forums. I will put the DRL killer in tomorrow. I will get it built tonight. :cool:

TexazReece said:
I wanted to order the 2400 lumens but went on and purchased the 3600 lows/fogs and see how I'd like them. Will adjust the angles at which they point to avoid blinding anyone on the road. I really appreciate Kevin for offering the crees for our trucks.
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I just got the 9006 for my low beams for now.

Midnyteryder02 said:
Pics pics pics.. :D
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I just got back from taking the before pics... I will post up after I am done.
 

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Those definitely light up the road better than halogens. You getting flashed a lot or have you not drove much?
 
I haven't driven much yet.
 
Did you put them in as is or were you able to reclock the mounting tabs?
 
I had to clock them to put the CREEs at 9 and 3 O'clock positions.
 
djthumper said:
I had to clock them to put the CREEs at 9 and 3 O'clock positions.
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Hmmm ok...i will prob figure out whats up with mine when im working on them tomorrow. No matter what i tried short of using tools to force it i could not get the ring with the tabs to seperate from the heat sink....The way i understand how they work is there is the center pole the LEDs are on, the ring with the tabs and the heat sink. And that you loosen off the pole so you can rotate the ring with the tabs then tighten it up again sandwiching the ring between the pole and the heat sink. On mine it almost seems like the ring and the heat sink are one piece.
 
Darkrider_LS said:
Hmmm ok...i will prob figure out whats up with mine when im working on them tomorrow. No matter what i tried short of using tools to force it i could not get the ring with the tabs to seperate from the heat sink....The way i understand how they work is there is the center pole the LEDs are on, the ring with the tabs and the heat sink. And that you loosen off the pole so you can rotate the ring with the tabs then tighten it up again sandwiching the ring between the pole and the heat sink. On mine it almost seems like the ring and the heat sink are one piece.
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I will ask Rose tonite if she knows about that. I have had 2 peeps tell me this out of 165 sets.
 
DFWWIZ said:
I will ask Rose tonite if she knows about that. I have had 2 peeps tell me this out of 165 sets.
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Glad im not the only one with this situation. Does anyone have pics of the bulbs after they have been reclocked to show where the tabs should be?
 
Darkrider_LS said:
Hmmm ok...i will prob figure out whats up with mine when im working on them tomorrow. No matter what i tried short of using tools to force it i could not get the ring with the tabs to separate from the heat sink....The way i understand how they work is there is the center pole the LEDs are on, the ring with the tabs and the heat sink. And that you loosen off the pole so you can rotate the ring with the tabs then tighten it up again sandwiching the ring between the pole and the heat sink. On mine it almost seems like the ring and the heat sink are one piece.
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The ring with the tabs did not spin... But I got the post to come loose a little, I didn't have to clock too much. I was thinking the ring would move freely but I didn't want to spin the post too much to get things loose. Maybe I clocked it wrong... :confused:

Darkrider_LS said:
Glad im not the only one with this situation. Does anyone have pics of the bulbs after they have been reclocked to show where the tabs should be?
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They were both slightly different because of the locking ring from each side was slightly opposite.
 
Darkrider_LS said:
Glad im not the only one with this situation. Does anyone have pics of the bulbs after they have been reclocked to show where the tabs should be?
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If you were to be looking at the back side of the headlight housings and have the tabs in position where the small tab is aligned so the bulbe would be pushed into place, the post would be canted roughly to the 11 oclock position. Then when the bulb is twisted in to locked position the SMDs will be pointing left and right or parallel with the ground.
 
DFWWIZ said:
If you were to be looking at the back side of the headlight housings and have the tabs in position where the small tab is aligned so the bulbe would be pushed into place, the post would be canted roughly to the 11 oclock position. Then when the bulb is twisted in to locked position the SMDs will be pointing left and right or parallel with the ground.
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When i look at the bulbs themselves from the fan side (backside of the headlight when installed) one has a slight cant towards the 11 o clock position and the other one is around 1 o clock.
 
Darkrider_LS said:
When i look at the bulbs themselves from the fan side (backside of the headlight when installed) one has a slight cant towards the 11 o clock position and the other one is around 1 o clock.
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On the drivers side the one at 11 was the small one. On the passenger side the one closer to 1 was the smaller one...

I guess I will be taking mine out tomorrow again to double check the clocking...
 
DFWWIZ said:
I will ask Rose tonite if she know about that. I have had 2 peeps tell me this out of 165 sets.
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I was the other one of those peeps. I was able to clock it tho......but not the "correct way" and ive never been flashed btw
 
I went back into my headlights to look at the lock ring for proper clocking. No go, I loosened the post and gave myself almost 1/8" and still cannot spin the lock ring from the heat sink.
 
djthumper said:
I went back into my headlights to look at the lock ring for proper clocking. No go, I loosened the post and gave myself almost 1/8" and still cannot spin the lock ring from the heat sink.
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I had mine completely disassembled at one point and no go. I wound up putting them back as i found them and just installing them as is.
 
Did you do any kind of clocking of the post to line them up?
 
djthumper said:
Did you do any kind of clocking of the post to line them up?
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No, i thought about that idea but i didnt think they would stay in position since the post seemed pretty loose when i tried it. I may still end up taking them back out and clocking them that way then using JB weld to hold them secure.
 
I've skimmed the thread and can't find an answer, so for myself and the others who may want to know, as long as you have either the DRL killer or the cap mod these are truly pnp? If I'm thinking correctly the stock bulb wiring plugs into the driver, and the bulb plugs into that, no extra harness or relays running to the battery, correct?
 
Envoy_04 said:
I've skimmed the thread and can't find an answer, so for myself and the others who may want to know, as long as you have either the DRL killer or the cap mod these are truly pnp? If I'm thinking correctly the stock bulb wiring plugs into the driver, and the bulb plugs into that, no extra harness or relays running to the battery, correct?
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This is correct. I did the cap mod this morning after i finished installing the LEDs and drivers. The more time consuming parts were figuring out where to secure the Drivers after i found out that the plan i originally had did not work lol
 
Umm is there a fuse for the DRLs? I can't find one listed... I did the capacitor mod but have no DRLs. I unplugged the tap ans still no go. :confused:
 
Did you check the fuses for the headlights or are they still working? (Other than DRL)
 
djthumper said:
Umm is there a fuse for the DRLs? I can't find one listed... I did the capacitor mod but have no DRLs. I unplugged the tap ans still no go. :confused:
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Nope, it's a PWM signal from the BCM. Assuming your DRLs worked fine before the cap mod attempt, I'd check the place where you tapped the wire and make sure you didn't sever it completely. Do your normal low beams function properly?
 
My low beams work fine... :hissyfit:
 
djthumper said:
Umm is there a fuse for the DRLs? I can't find one listed... I did the capacitor mod but have no DRLs. I unplugged the tap ans still no go. :confused:
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That is wierd...my DRLs still functioned after i did my Cap mod...which is the point of the cap mod lol...hmmm I seem to recall reading about similar things happening before with HID installs when the Cap mod was used...in fact it was mentioned enough that it was one of the reasons i was wary about messing with the electrical at all in my truck for the longest time...let me see if i can find the thread.
 
djthumper said:
My low beams work fine... :hissyfit:
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Did you shift into drive? Is the park brake off?
 
MAY03LT said:
Did you shift into drive? Is the park brake off?
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LOL, working it alone I decided to have my wife put it into drive when she got home... It works. Now to wait until dark so I can check the aim.
 
Since the capacitor mod never made it over here... Do we want a write-up so that we have it for later and stop the trips to the old site? Not that mine was the cleanest, since I used heat shrink and wiring that I had.
 
djthumper said:
Since the capacitor mod never made it over here... Do we want a write-up so that we have it for later and stop the trips to the old site? Not that mine was the cleanest, since I used heat shrink and wiring that I had.
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It would def help. I can always take a pic of how i did it if it will help?
 
patrick said:
Anybody have pictures of how you mounted the ballasts?
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I havent had a chance to play around with the cree led bulbs yet.. but from what i have saw.. on the cree's they are called drivers, and are mounted right with the bulb.. hids use ballasts, leds use drivers.. :thumbsup:
 
Midnyteryder02 said:
I havent had a chance to play around with the cree led bulbs yet.. but from what i have saw.. on the cree's they are called drivers, and are mounted right with the bulb.. hids use ballasts, leds use drivers.. :thumbsup:
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Thanks. I saw one pic on TBSS that had the drivers mounted just down from the ribber caps, but the OP said some modification had to be done to the headlight mounts.
 
The passenger side I mounted under the HL like the SS was done. I had to change it on the drivers sid and shoved it through the hole and strapped it to a wire bundle for now. If I didn't do that the headlight would not go back in place properly.
 
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