DFWWIZ Cree/Philips LED headlights
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glfredrick
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I like what the LED lights do for light output and reduced current draw, but I am now hearing reliable reports that they run too cold to defrost or deice headlight lenses for those who live in snow and ice country. They may be fine for those who experience most of their winter driving at or near temps of 32F, but for those who often face below zero temps plus snow or road spray that freezes onto everything, they are not the way to go in the winter time! 
My son works at V3 Jeeps in Louisville and they have recently gotten onto the LED bandwagon and he was trying to convince me to run LED in my headlights. Yesterday after a snow event he called and said to hold off -- he said that virtually every customer who installed the LED in their headlight or foglight system were compaining that they simply would not defrost the lamp housing.
I still like the lights and what they do, but I drive for 1/3 of my year in harsh winter conditions where the ability to keep the headlight lenses frost free is the difference between life or death on rural roads with deer, snow drifts, etc.
Just wanted to pass this information along to others who are considering making the jump.
My son works at V3 Jeeps in Louisville and they have recently gotten onto the LED bandwagon and he was trying to convince me to run LED in my headlights. Yesterday after a snow event he called and said to hold off -- he said that virtually every customer who installed the LED in their headlight or foglight system were compaining that they simply would not defrost the lamp housing.
I still like the lights and what they do, but I drive for 1/3 of my year in harsh winter conditions where the ability to keep the headlight lenses frost free is the difference between life or death on rural roads with deer, snow drifts, etc.
Just wanted to pass this information along to others who are considering making the jump.
Midnyteryder196
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glfredrick said:I like what the LED lights do for light output and reduced current draw, but I am now hearing reliable reports that they run too cold to defrost or deice headlight lenses for those who live in snow and ice country. They may be fine for those who experience most of their winter driving at or near temps of 32F, but for those who often face below zero temps plus snow or road spray that freezes onto everything, they are not the way to go in the winter time!
Hmm maybe a spring/summer bulb then? Its not that hard to change out bulbs.. but then again do I want to keep switching bulbs every fall n spring?
SBUBandit
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glfredrick said:I like what the LED lights do for light output and reduced current draw, but I am now hearing reliable reports that they run too cold to defrost or deice headlight lenses for those who live in snow and ice country. They may be fine for those who experience most of their winter driving at or near temps of 32F, but for those who often face below zero temps plus snow or road spray that freezes onto everything, they are not the way to go in the winter time!
My son works at V3 Jeeps in Louisville and they have recently gotten onto the LED bandwagon and he was trying to convince me to run LED in my headlights. Yesterday after a snow event he called and said to hold off -- he said that virtually every customer who installed the LED in their headlight or foglight system were compaining that they simply would not defrost the lamp housing.
I still like the lights and what they do, but I drive for 1/3 of my year in harsh winter conditions where the ability to keep the headlight lenses frost free is the difference between life or death on rural roads with deer, snow drifts, etc.
Just wanted to pass this information along to others who are considering making the jump.
This should also be solved by my plan to run HID low and LED high, w/ Quad beams. THE HID should keep the lenses clear. They'll certainly keep the low beam portion clear and if your in driving snow that sticks to the lenses and have your high beams on... well then you deserve issues since you shouldn't have the highs on in the snow anyways.
I plan to do the same on my Malibu, and no way in hell I'm changing bulbs often in that thing. Gotta remove the entire front bumper to change bulbs.
glfredrick said:I like what the LED lights do for light output and reduced current draw, but I am now hearing reliable reports that they run too cold to defrost or deice headlight lenses for those who live in snow and ice country. They may be fine for those who experience most of their winter driving at or near temps of 32F, but for those who often face below zero temps plus snow or road spray that freezes onto everything, they are not the way to go in the winter time!
My son works at V3 Jeeps in Louisville and they have recently gotten onto the LED bandwagon and he was trying to convince me to run LED in my headlights. Yesterday after a snow event he called and said to hold off -- he said that virtually every customer who installed the LED in their headlight or foglight system were compaining that they simply would not defrost the lamp housing.
I still like the lights and what they do, but I drive for 1/3 of my year in harsh winter conditions where the ability to keep the headlight lenses frost free is the difference between life or death on rural roads with deer, snow drifts, etc.
Just wanted to pass this information along to others who are considering making the jump.
The thing is when I had HIDs in my headlights and fogs they were hot to touch but never melted any snow. It was always covered and iced over
Instrumental
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I've got the headlamp washers, I imagine that should take care of snow and whatnot. We also garage park in the winter, I can't ever go back to scraping ice in the morning, I'm addicted to a snow and ice free car.
Matt
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kjkim93 said:
Yep, low beams. I have a DRL killer, so it's only when the lights are on. I was thinking it was probably the driver having issues.
I've put my old HIR bulbs in there for the time being. I sent Kev and email but haven't heard back from him yet...although I know he's pretty busy with these things selling like hotcakes.
Playsinsnow
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oh05ext said:
Few thoughts...
Drive at night? See better.
Have kid(s)? See better.
She drive it? She can see better.
Longevity? Investment
Vandalism.
(Something's telling me you just have to do it and see if she notices. Easier that way. Will she make you take them out?
)
Playsinsnow said:Few thoughts...
Drive at night? See better.
Have kid(s)? See better.
She drive it? She can see better.
Longevity? Investment
Vandalism.
(Something's telling me you just have to do it and see if she notices. Easier that way. Will she make you take them out?
Easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.
What is there to convince? When I have to replace the low beams it is going to be around $50 - $60 to replace the halogens. To switch to LED is $70 + shipping. Tell her that you have a flaky low beam and this is brighter and safer then running the ones that are in the parts store.
Midnyteryder196
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Just buy the lights, and then get her something she could really get some use out of.. like a new pan set, or mixer. 
.. Haha just joking!
.. Haha just joking!
DFWWIZ
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Ok so Matt swapped drivers to see if problem follows and now he says both are working again. Connections are pretty critical so if they don't click together and you are dealing with 24 volts coming off the drivers and I know the factory is still assembling neg and pos backwards sometimes.
DRLs need to have a relay/harness is what I'm being told now or you can do the capacitor mod which makes full 12 volts to the headlights all the time. I went to Fry's electronics yesterday and bought all their 10 uF 35 volt caps to make some of these little mods up for sale for a few bucks... they install under the rear seat in the BCM from the pink/white stripe wire to a ground.
Also went and picked up the stainless laser cut lighted SS door sills yesterday and will get at those-weather cooperating. The Aero Sills are being sorted out from the drawing and will be cut shortly and I have a buddy looking at several CNC machine shops for me in the making of the billet aluminum door sills and bumper plates.
Yup, I'm a busy guy. 
:wootwoot:
DRLs need to have a relay/harness is what I'm being told now or you can do the capacitor mod which makes full 12 volts to the headlights all the time. I went to Fry's electronics yesterday and bought all their 10 uF 35 volt caps to make some of these little mods up for sale for a few bucks... they install under the rear seat in the BCM from the pink/white stripe wire to a ground.
Also went and picked up the stainless laser cut lighted SS door sills yesterday and will get at those-weather cooperating. The Aero Sills are being sorted out from the drawing and will be cut shortly and I have a buddy looking at several CNC machine shops for me in the making of the billet aluminum door sills and bumper plates.
Yup,
I'm a busy guy. :wootwoot:
Matt
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DFWWIZ said:Ok so Matt swapped drivers to see if problem follows and now he says both are working again. Connections are pretty critical so if they don't click together and you are dealing with 24 volts coming off the drivers and I know the factory is still assembling neg and pos backwards sometimes.
DRLs need to have a relay/harness is what I'm being told now or you can do the capacitor mod which makes full 12 volts to the headlights all the time. I went to Fry's electronics yesterday and bought all their 10 uF 35 volt caps to make some of these little mods up for sale for a few bucks... they install under the rear seat in the BCM from the pink/white stripe wire to a ground.
Also went and picked up the stainless laser cut lighted SS door sills yesterday and will get at those-weather cooperating. The Aero Sills are being sorted out from the drawing and will be cut shortly and I have a buddy looking at several CNC machine shops for me in the making of the billet aluminum door sills and bumper plates.
Yup,
Mine are backwards. The clip can't clip because they are reversed, but they are on tight. I am still getting a little flicker on the passengers side, but will look at it after work this morning and keep you appraised.
glfredrick
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oh05ext said:
Reminds me of why brides wear white... "So the dishwasher matches the stove and fridge..." (Ba-da-bump...
)My wife has learned to listen to me over the years because she too likes to see in the dark while driving. I don't have to "buy her off" to get her permission. Yes, she gripes about the cost of car parts -- until she hears the stories of people at work where they are spending thousands for stuff I'm doing in the driveway for the cost of parts -- and for the record, so do I. I don't like what parts cost any more than my wife, but it takes parts to keep stuff going, including good lights.
meerschm
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djthumper said:
c'mon.
Amazon.com: Philips 9006 Standard Halogen Headlight Bulb (Low-Beam), Pack of 1: Automotive
not sure why you want more expensive lights unless you drive off road or way out in the boonies. where I drive, the real need is to be seen and to see the road. (and not blind the other guys so they squint and cut in front of you)
I don't have any issue with anyone who wants to put nicer lights on the rig, but the default looks to me to be under $15 a pair. ( and my experience is they do not really go as pairs so you could spend half that.)
Sparky
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The whole point IS to see the road better 
Well, mostly. Some people do it "just because" which is fine too lol.
The default is enough to pass DOT standards, and are certainly better than some other cars' headlights out there that I've seen, but nothing stellar either. Always room for improvement
Well, mostly. Some people do it "just because" which is fine too lol.
The default is enough to pass DOT standards, and are certainly better than some other cars' headlights out there that I've seen, but nothing stellar either. Always room for improvement
Darkrider_LS
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IllogicTC
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Sparky said:The whole point IS to see the road better
Well, mostly. Some people do it "just because" which is fine too lol.
The default is enough to pass DOT standards, and are certainly better than some other cars' headlights out there that I've seen, but nothing stellar either. Always room for improvement
Years ahead of a mid-2000s Grand Am. The lights don't do diddly in the dark, even fog lights hardly helped, however with those you could see what pothole you were about 12" from at highway speed if your eyes are quick enough.
meerschm
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if you need the light in the boonies, why not something like this?
Amazon.com: 20" LED -22" OFF ROAD LED LIGHT BAR FLOOD/SPOT COMBO BEAM- 3W LED-120W-7500 LUMEN: Automotive
( I actually have considered such a solution mounted backwards for those folks who come up behind my jetta with mis-aimed lights on the highway.... not that I would really do that.... but have considered it. I usually settle for calling them a J*** **S, much to my wife's amusement.)
Amazon.com: 20" LED -22" OFF ROAD LED LIGHT BAR FLOOD/SPOT COMBO BEAM- 3W LED-120W-7500 LUMEN: Automotive
( I actually have considered such a solution mounted backwards for those folks who come up behind my jetta with mis-aimed lights on the highway.... not that I would really do that.... but have considered it. I usually settle for calling them a J*** **S, much to my wife's amusement.)
Sparky
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Can't really use those on the highway too well
I've been tempted to wire in a switch to manually turn on my reverse lights, so if someone is being stupid behind me I just lightly push the brake pedal enough to turn the brake lights on for a sec, then flip the switch so the reverse lights kick on. I wonder what people's reactions would be
I've been tempted to wire in a switch to manually turn on my reverse lights, so if someone is being stupid behind me I just lightly push the brake pedal enough to turn the brake lights on for a sec, then flip the switch so the reverse lights kick on. I wonder what people's reactions would be
meerschm said:
Have you tried traveling off-road with the standard halogen bulb? And they should be replaced in pairs to keep the lights fairly balanced... Besides with my luck 2 days after changing the one I would be at it for the other side.
meerschm said:
I am actually looking at the 30" version and then lighting for the rear and sides.
Sparky said:Can't really use those on the highway too well
I've been tempted to wire in a switch to manually turn on my reverse lights, so if someone is being stupid behind me I just lightly push the brake pedal enough to turn the brake lights on for a sec, then flip the switch so the reverse lights kick on. I wonder what people's reactions would be
I have seen videos on YouTube with guys who upgraded their reverse lights with HID kits (Made for reverse lights, not headlights) and wired them with a switch and can turn them on while driving down the road to freak out tailgaters.
[video=youtube;N4B5o_YtDwk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4B5o_YtDwk[/video]
meerschm
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Have to say sorry for diverting this thread.
When I was a young airman in the USAF, one of the NCOs told a story of wiring up a landing light from an F-4 in the back seat of his MGB-GT in Hawaii.
the story was as you might expect: dark road, impatient bright-flasher. the lamp turned on for a few seconds, which lit up the countryside like daylight, and when he turned it off, he could see headlights bobbing up and down in the pineapple field.
we all had a good chuckle, and went back to work.
When I was a young airman in the USAF, one of the NCOs told a story of wiring up a landing light from an F-4 in the back seat of his MGB-GT in Hawaii.
the story was as you might expect: dark road, impatient bright-flasher. the lamp turned on for a few seconds, which lit up the countryside like daylight, and when he turned it off, he could see headlights bobbing up and down in the pineapple field.
we all had a good chuckle, and went back to work.
