Looks like you are doing the drivers side? Did you have any problems getting the bolts out? If I remember correctly, the rear bolt on the drivers side can be a royal pain in the ass!
Bought junkyard front differential..was I robbed?
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
- Start date
These came today though..I was gonna go with advanced for the cv axles but I saw Detroit axle had 2 remanufactured cv axles and 2 new wheel hubs for the same price I would've paid at advance for just the cv axles...figured I'll give them I shot..I've been reading some bad things about Detroit axle shaking at 60 and above..we'll see these came today I guess I'll get the axles tmrw glad I got the wheel hubs though the passenger side ones had some play in them
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I have the detroit axle bearings in my Envoy, no problems as of yet, been about 30k miles. When I rebuild the front end, I might end up replacing them again. Dont know yet. I burn thru a bearing about once every 20-30k miles. @HARDTRAILZ I think just makes it a habit of replacing them every year or something. But he is lifted, and his rig is a bit harder on them.
@TollKeeper thats passenger side I'm doing now..had to take out the air intake box thing whatever that's called,the wiper fluid tank and coolant tank..the driver side UCA bushings could be changed but they're not bad I'm gonna leave them for now ..I'm tired..
Nope... 200k miles on mine, still OEM. Even the boots are still in tact.
Luck? LOL I dont know really. I just keep driving the beast, and it just keeps asking for more. I can really see that she is getting long in the tooth. But, the body and the frame look great (no rust, and only minor dings). I love my truck!
Edit: I really have to give credit where its due, and as much as I hate to, its to GM. My truck is still on the original brake rotors, calipers, exhaust, o2 sensors, and a whole slew of other parts that are usually replaced by now. Not this truck. I have had to replace a intake gasket, brake pads, radiator, alternator, water pump, rebuild my sunroof motor, 1 upper control arm, upper and lower ball joints, struts and shocks, and transmission.. You know, normal wear and tear items. For the miles that are on the truck, and for how I drive (with and without a trailer attached), this is incredibly remarkable. The truck has NEVER left me stranded, even when the tranny went out, she was still drive-able, just slipping in the gears.
Edit: I really have to give credit where its due, and as much as I hate to, its to GM. My truck is still on the original brake rotors, calipers, exhaust, o2 sensors, and a whole slew of other parts that are usually replaced by now. Not this truck. I have had to replace a intake gasket, brake pads, radiator, alternator, water pump, rebuild my sunroof motor, 1 upper control arm, upper and lower ball joints, struts and shocks, and transmission.. You know, normal wear and tear items. For the miles that are on the truck, and for how I drive (with and without a trailer attached), this is incredibly remarkable. The truck has NEVER left me stranded, even when the tranny went out, she was still drive-able, just slipping in the gears.
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xavierny25
Member
There practically new I think I ran them for about 3 weeks while I was waiting for my brother to powder coat my aftermarket set.
Detroit axle hubs are decent especially if you take advantage of there warranty. So make sure you hold on to the paper work for them. I think I've been running this set of Detroit axle hubs for the better part of 2 yrs with now issue. My brother-in-law wasn't so lucky with a set so he switched over to moog and we'll see how those work out.
@xavierny25 sweet..what kid of rotors u got there gonna do my breaks soon after I take a break from giving all my money to advanced auto for a few months...just checked out Craig's list there's a guy giving away a some control arms for free in Brooklyn..made me laugh
xavierny25
Member
@TollKeeper there not.There the ones Tony aka NorcalSS teamed up with djm for the lowered SS crowd.
There actually a listing on craigslist for a set. https://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/d/jersey-city-trailblazer-ss-parts/7077563513.html
@Uncleenvoy I'm running the brakemotive on ebay set and I've had no issues. I've got them on my brother-in-laws SS as well and he likes them too.
There actually a listing on craigslist for a set. https://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/d/jersey-city-trailblazer-ss-parts/7077563513.html
@Uncleenvoy I'm running the brakemotive on ebay set and I've had no issues. I've got them on my brother-in-laws SS as well and he likes them too.
xavierny25
Member
@Uncleenvoy when the time comes for you to do the brakes it would be a good idea to step up to the bigger rotors and the brackets for the front end. There's a whole thread or threads on how to do it. I'd also advise you on getting the stainless steel lines up front.
xavierny25
Member
@xavierny25 Friday night/sat morning some jackass decided to stab every car tire on mine and 5 other blocks all in all about 30 cars..the envoy was in the driveway on jackstands but they got my work van and my other vehicle..plus my niece asked me to do her brakes so they got that one too..busy weekend repairing/replacing my own tires and helping out some of the neighbors..smh..I hope somebody caught that jerk on camera..got back to work on the envoy today after finishing the nieces brake job..the new UCA came on Friday
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Can't do anything else still waiting on the cv axles..emailed them they said they're gonna check warehouse and get back to me.
Actually I forgot one thing I have to do is replace swaybar links...got the new ones already.. I tried to get this bolt off but it's spinning on itself...I tried jacking up the truck by that bolt to use the weight to stop it from spinning but didn't work. The end of that bolt has what looks like an Allen wrench indentation in it but I don't know if it's rounded off or if my largest Allen wrench is just too small..gonna take a better look in the morn...any suggestions appreciated..worst case scenario gonna have to remove sway bar and take a circular saw to those bolts
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yes, should be a metric allen key to hold it... be sure to clean out any dirt in it and have a snug fit... otherwise a cutting wheel or nut splitter is your best friend there.
m.mcmillen
Member
These vise grips work really well for sway bar links. I have a pair and they work great. You might be able to find some locally.
Amazon.com: 7’’ Low-profile Sway Bar Link Pliers with Saw teeth : Everything Else
Amazon.com: 7’’ Low-profile Sway Bar Link Pliers with Saw teeth : Everything Else
www.amazon.com
xavierny25
Member
Damn, that is horrible news. I sure hope someone did catch the person on camera and they get him, her or them. Going back 1 month ago similar thing was happening about 2 miles from where I live. Unfortunately they haven't caught anyone or got any video of the area because it's near the shore along the belt parkway so no one ever thought of pointing 1 in that direction I guess.
Just grab a pair of big vice grips, and clamp em down.. At least thats what I did LOL.
@coolasice @m.mcmillen @xavierny25 @TollKeeper the vice grip method worked on the exposed bottom bolt. I tried to cut the link off the top bolt but then I said what the hell go buy the nut splitter tool for 13 bux' I'm probably gonna need it for something else anyway..nope...I'll be returning that piece of crap posthaste...just gonna pull it out and hit it with the cutter tool
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Hammer wasn't working tried that earlier..Tried to take out the sway bar thinking I had plenty of room to slide it out..turns out the only reason I remember having so much room is because the oilpan was out...no way I was taking that thing out again..tapping my inner Mcgyver used the jack to snap off the link..the driver side link was so bad it fell off in my hand after I cut the rubber boot. I think that tool failed because the nut had that lip on the end so it'll prob just exchange it..luckily it didn't damage the threads
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There was a sticker that came with the UCA that said not to torque it down until the vehicle is at the normal drive height...does the same rule apply to the sway bar links or can I go ahead and torque them while it's still jacked up
xavierny25
Member
In your case I'd wait till it's on the ground do the uppers and if you have ramps drive it on to them then torque them down. Use thread locker on the sway bar bolts or like most with that style on here have noticed they tend to loosen up even when torqued correctly.
xavierny25
Member
xavierny25
Member
@xavierny25 nope but while at a junkyard on Thursday looking for a bumper for my work van (buisiness partner rear ended a guy last week) I asked the guy if he had any cv axles and he pulled these out..not bad...splines looked good,no play when I twist them..the Detroit axle ones were gonna be remans anyway so it's not like I was getting new ones so grabbed them for 80 bux he wanted 100 but those lock rings looked a little stretched...contacted Detroit told them to to cancel the order, charge me for the wheel hubs and send me back the difference..tried to put the axles in but of course the lock rings wouldn't allow me to..ordered 2 new rings from dealer on fri 20 bux..they should be here tmrw..the drivers side upper ball joint was looking pretty spent so I changed that b4 I got to work on the work van..if the rings show up early enough tmrw I should be done
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Probably gonna change the rear diff fluid today..maybe transfer case fluid too..depending on how difficult that is...rear diff is easy..I gotta look into transfer case
front diff and transfer case are super easy. Drain plug on both, than fill. Make sure to use the specific transfer case fluid these trucks take
I've seen a lot of people saying it's ok to reuse the old gasket but I'm not liking the the looks of this one at all..plus it's 20 bux on gmparts direct so I'm guessing that's what it would cost at the dealer..hopefully they have it in stock when I go pick up the lock ring clips tomorrow
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Also this doesn't look right to me..that exposed spring there..anybody know anything about this..I did have have an occasional knock when I switched to and from reverse and there's some serious backlash..I can spin the wheel almost an inch before the gears engage
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Mooseman
Moderator
If the oil was never changed, I would consider that amount of fine particles on the magnet as normal.
I can't tell if there anything wrong from your pics as they are kinda dark. Here is what a new one looks like.
I can't tell if there anything wrong from your pics as they are kinda dark. Here is what a new one looks like.
I second that about the particulate the magnet caught. Looks normal, its fine particles, not large chunks. that's how its supposed to look.
I was able to remove some of my end links with vice grips and some with a cut off wheel on the angle grinder. They were not easy.
I was able to remove some of my end links with vice grips and some with a cut off wheel on the angle grinder. They were not easy.
@Mooseman @BrianF thanx for the info I had the truck 7 years and this is the first time I've done it..doubt the previous owner did anything based on how much neglect I've seen doing these repairs I'm doing..moose,I'll spray down the diff with some brake cleaner to get a better look..I see that exposed spring in the pic you sent so I guess that's what's its supposed to look like.
