coolride
Member
Bought junkyard front differential..was I robbed?
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
- Start date
Spray down with brake clean or wd-40, then follow up with a air gun. Most will come out, and what doesnt will be caught in the filter. I would use this opportunity to go ahead and replace the pick up. Its easy while you are here. And its a common enough problem to just get ahead of the gun while you are here.
coolride
Member
@coolasice @coolride ive had the truck since 2013 and I never put fluid in there and I don't know how long that crack was there or if the previous owner put fluid in,So all type of water got in there..those bolts were definitely banging on the housing and getting smashed up..that was part of the noise that caused me to look into it..I thought is was a wheel bearing at first
Here's an oilpan I picked up today at a salvage yard for 50 bux and the junkyard diff I picked up a few months ago..I'm gonna give them both a cleaning tmrw especially the inside of the oil pan, that part on the right was in the oil pan..what's it called? I know what it is and what it's for just don't know what it's called..wondering if it's worth anything, I'll clean it up and sell it.I've got the oilpan soaking in some la's awesome degreaser overnight right now but any favorite or recommended cleaning products would be appreciated
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Mooseman
Moderator
coolride
Member
That appears to be the seal to me, and it will be a problem. The seal is like 18 bucks from the GM dealer (dont get one anywhere else on this one). Most dealers have them in stock.
coolride
Member
@coolride yeah thats the junkyard diff..im gonna follow you and @TollKeeper advice and go check the dealer..got the oilpan and diff cleaned up decent. Gonna give the oil pan a little once over in the morn
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Also after about a half hour of wondering what the the hell am I gonna do to get the intermediate shaft out..I said to myself "hey dummy why don't u take it apart like you did the old one" so I did that and 3 taps with a hammer and it popped right out..question...should these get any sealant/gasket material between the halves when I put them back together? I would think so since there is fluid in there and it doesn't look that watertight to me
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Mooseman
Moderator
Why does that look like the wrong seal... Is that the gasket for the torque tube, or the cv axle side?
There actually MORE expensive to buy from any other parts store that I have been able to find.
@TollKeeper really? Thats odd..probably gonna get new bearings too one has a lot of small pitting on a few of the pins and one has a decent size piece missing on one pin
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Mooseman
Moderator
After reading the work involved to adjust pinion depth, I wouldn't mess with that at all.
@Mooseman..i probably should of just bought a properly refurbished and calibrated one off the internet..if i remeber correctly i think i paid 280 for this one wouldve been worth it...gotta go find the receipt..probably gonna leave it alone then..i wasnt using the 4 wheel drive anyway just started this project to get rid of that horrible noise i was getting and i think what ive done so far will remedy that
Mooseman
Moderator
I never used it because it was broke..it would make even worse noise and jump and jerk and the front wheels wouldn't move at all..now I know why..I've needed it a few times during some of our New York snow storms..I've had to be pushed out of spots occasionally on some of the side streets that have low plow priority...nothing quite as embarrassing as the guy in the Honda Civic getting out of his car to help push your "4x4" out of the way so he can get by..ever since then I just don't go out in it if there's a significant amount of snow
@TollKeeper i didnt replace it jusy gave it real good cleaning..forgot to take the after pick.
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m.mcmillen
Member
@m.mcmillen no I didn't replace the bearings..after thinking about how I hardly use the 4 wheel drive I think I'm done with this job. Oil pan and diff are back in..just gotta torque the pan bolts to spec,put some oil in and Inspect for leaks...was gonna get it all done today but raining like like crazy
coolride
Member
If you ever change your mind and decide to pull the diff again, at least it will be a much easier job. The first time doing a job is always sooo much harder. With all the questions and head scratching, it takes 10X as much time and energy.
Check this friggin disaster out..how the hell did any of us not notice this..junkyard oil pan was broke..i checked the earlier pics and there it was.. so i know i didnt do it..the rear pass side that connects to the transmission...SUM B×××CH..just gotta laugh at this point..they said 30 day warranty when i bought it so heading back to hear their story now
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Mooseman
Moderator
Just an FYI, you're supposed to tighten (not torque) the oil pan to transmission bolts first so it is flush with the tranny. Then you torque down the pan to block bolts and then the pan to tranny bolts.
Wait... What? Gotta remember, I have never worked on a 4.2. But do the tranny pan and oil pan overlap or something?
Mooseman
Moderator
Not the tranny pan but the bellhousing. The tranny bellhousing goes all the way around unlike the V8 which is split. So the bellhousing pattern on the block extends all around via the oil pan.
Got it moose..i will follow that procedure..they gave me money back and sent me to an affiliate to get a replacement same price..this one has baffles in it and the tag said 03 trailblazer (ive got 04 envoy)..looks the same otherwise has any one seen this b4? should i be concerned?
