4.2L I6 Head Removal/Engine Restoration

[OctaneRider03]

Well shut the front door and CALL ME SALLY!! The machine shop is replacing all the valves! They apparently didn't like what they saw in there! They said my springs were fine but it was pretty intense inside the head! Can't wait to see what it looks like once they give it back! I'm going to see if I can get one of the guys over there to get a quick snap of what he can see! Hah! At least I know now that I didn't do all this in vain!

Set cam phasers to stun everyone! LOL! Will update as I get more info!

 

[Mooseman]

That is a good news/bad news thing. At least the head itself is sound. Roadie was kind enough to show the phaser, this is the CPAS. It goes into the head, just under the phaser.

 

[OctaneRider03]

That is a good news/bad news thing. At least the head itself is sound. Roadie was kind enough to show the phaser, this is the CPAS. It goes into the head, just under the phaser.

Well done my friend. I do recall pulling this particular part out two nights before taking the head off. If I recall correctly, my assistant told me that exact same thing you did. They go out. I'll have a new one on order ASAP. Thanks man!

Well, since they're replacing all the valves, I suppose my bill will fire back up. They gave me a discount for removing all the sensors, one of which you've just identified to me, as well as taking the cams out. I think they took off about $150 bucks for doing so. I would imagine I won't be paying $350 anymore due to the valve replacement.

This is fine though, as I have over a grand invested into this project as a safety. Whatever's left will be contributed to GMT Nation, mainly because of all the feedback and support I've gotten from you all!

As the new parts roll in I'll get them all lined up in clear view and post them! Thanks! -Lee

 

[Sparky]

Well shut the front door and CALL ME SALLY!! The machine shop is replacing all the valves! They apparently didn't like what they saw in there! They said my springs were fine but it was pretty intense inside the head! Can't wait to see what it looks like once they give it back! I'm going to see if I can get one of the guys over there to get a quick snap of what he can see! Hah! At least I know now that I didn't do all this in vain!

Set cam phasers to stun everyone! LOL! Will update as I get more info!

Did they take pics? I want to see the gory details

 

[OctaneRider03]

Did they take pics? I want to see the gory details

Negative. I don't think it's procedure for them to take snap shots of their work as they progress, BUT I do plan on putting in a request with one of the guys over there that has it! I'm just as curious as you are to see what they found!!

In the meantime I'd like to focus on what all it could have been that caused those cylinders to fire low. It couldn't have just been the carbon build up. Could it? Take note on everything I've replaced, and still noticing the same signs.. The entire truck would shake, and it became extremely annoying at those stop lights. For a long time I focused on the engine mounts, but after we replaced them I found that they literally had nothing to do with my problem. I took out the Delco iridiums and swapped them with NGK iridiums and replaced every single coil pack. I get my oil changed (for free) when it gets down to 70% with synthetic. I've had my K&N for a while and believe me, after I got my PCM back from PCMFORLESS I had a ton of fun with the over-all pick up I noticed! But all that was done well before the shake came into effect. Hmm..

 

[Sparky]

Well if the buildup is bad enough to keep even one valve from seating properly the compression will be low in that cylinder. Low compression will equal a weak power stroke at best, so instead of having 6 fires BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG you have something like BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-pop-BANG and it will shake because there is no longer an even amount of force per cylinder. Make it worse with a couple cylinders like that, BANG-BANG-pop-BANG-pop-BANG and it'll be even more noticeable.

Hope I made a little sense.

 

[OctaneRider03]

:wootwoot:

Well if the buildup is bad enough to keep even one valve from seating properly the compression will be low in that cylinder. Low compression will equal a weak power stroke at best, so instead of having 6 fires BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG you have something like BANG-BANG-BANG-BANG-pop-BANG and it will shake because there is no longer an even amount of force per cylinder. Make it worse with a couple cylinders like that, BANG-BANG-pop-BANG-pop-BANG and it'll be even more noticeable.

Hope I made a little sense.

Which is exactly what I'm experiencing to the tee bro. Of course I can barley hear the misfire as its occurring, the truck's activity by itself tells me different. The shake is extremely noticeable. When we sprayed those cans of seafoam in it calmed down. For a while I thought it was smooth sailing you know? Hah, wrong!!! If this doesn't solve my misfire issue, the truck's going to meet the Atlantic ocean.

Just kidding!

c309c09e.jpg picture by OctaneRider03 - Photobucket

If you look real close, you can see the sensor MooseMan was talking about! I remember pulling it out but couldn't find a picture of it! -Lee

 

[OctaneRider03]

Alright so I've decided to test something for all of you out there that are interested in seeing EXACTLY what we're doing with my Trailblazer. Here towards the end of this month, we'll have our cylinder head back from the machine shop. I'm going to be broadcasting live over the Internet using an app on my phone called Qik. Maybe you'll want to watch but may be busy (or asleep with the time we usually work on the Trailblazer), that's okay! It records, then uploads to my account online while I broadcast.

I want a way to better connect myself with you guys while we're pushing forward with my engine rebuild!

Here's the link..

http://qik.com/m/octanerider03

My first video to you guys has been posted! Be sure to leave feedback! You can view these videos directly from your smartphones! Stay frosty!

 

[pennywise]

Haven't heard that since I was in Ramadi 8 years ago.

 

[pennywise]

Awesome write up!

 

[OctaneRider03]

Awesome write up!

Thanks man, I try. My goal with this artical is to be as informative as possible for future readers. I want individuals from other forums and even those individuals that aren't apart of any online community to see what I'm doing as well as observe all the feedback I'm getting and use this as their number #1 refrence. GMT Nation abides and there's no way I could do anything without the support I receive from other members here.

Be sure to pass word on this if you should come across anybody scratching their head over similar issues. Also, I've posted a link to my Qik account above. By viewing my videos there either live while I broadcast or even after I'm done broadcasting, you'll be able to follow up with what I'm doing as we progress with things.

Thanks again! -Lee

"Know your target, know what lies beyond your target"

 

[OctaneRider03]

Guys, here's a video that was taken tonight! -Lee

Only seven more days until the head comes back and we push on with the reinstall!

A qik snippet of my life | Richlands, NC | By OctaneRider03

 

[OctaneRider03]

I got a call two or so hours ago (right as I was getting off work) from the machine shop. They said that they're running on schedule and should be almost if not completely done by the end of this week. We hope. He reminded me that the every valve will be replaced, and what their plan is as far as cleaning everything out and checking for cracks/warps.

They gave me permission to come in either Thursday or Friday to take as many pictures as needed for documentation purposes (I told them about GMT ha!) so hopefully I'll be able to get some good ones before they start cleaning!

Be patient guys, it's coming along! Believe me when I tell you not having my own vehical to get to work blows. I mean seriously, my friend is awesome for helping me out in the meantime but I guess I didn't take into full account that everywhere he goes, I go...

Anyway, stay frosty! -Lee

 

[Matt]

Lee,

I'm digging this thread and your patience in getting the truck running at it's optimum again, instead of passing it off to a dealer to sell to someone else.

 

[OctaneRider03]

Lee,

I'm digging this thread and your patience in getting the truck running at it's optimum again, instead of passing it off to a dealer to sell to someone else.

Thanks man, I really appreciate that. I'm doing the best I can with it. I won't sell it just for the pure fact that it's never given up on me. I've had it since I joined the Marines, and it's literally been all over the states with me. It's got a tough little motor, even though it was misfiring as bad as it was, it still continued to press forward and took me wherever I needed to go. You take care of your ride, it'll take care of you. And where I'm from, you don't take for granted something you've worked hard for. Ever.

I JUST got off the phone with the dealership guys. I figure since I've got the motor wide open right now, I might as well replace a few extra parts that have obvious amounts of wear and deterioration. I was told that the cam posistioner actuater valve will run me about $45, and the cam sensor itself will run me about $30. Easy day gents. Stay posted for more word as we continue to progress with the head project guys. -Lee

 

[Mooseman]

Don't forget about the phaser (real name: camshaft actuator), part number for your 2006 is 12580314. GMPartsDirect has it for $103, GMPartsShop, $119, regular dealer list price $174. Ask for the lower price.

 

[OctaneRider03]

Roger - will do... Thanks!

For those of you that weren't able to view my intial video posting using Qik, I've uploaded that same video to Youtube! Will post more once things pick back up again!


[video=youtube_share;l65K-gTanGc]http://youtu.be/l65K-gTanGc[/video]

 

[OctaneRider03]

Hey Nation, I'm posting this right now from the machine shop that has my head! Remember when I said something about them potentially having to replace all my valves? I took what they said over the wrong way! Completely my fault for misinterpreting!

As it turns out, he was pretty much preparing me for the worst! He had not yet at that time taken the valves out yet! SO! As soon as I walked in and he took me to the back of the shop, the first thing he said was "This is by far the cleanest 4.2L head we've seen yet! How in the world did you manage to take such good care of it??" The valves were still in when we spoke over the phone, he was telling me that they usually have to replace all the valves 9 times out of 10 with most of their work! Whoops!

At this point I smiled in pure embarrassment and said "Sea....Foam...?"

Hah! However, he did mention to me that the ports where the intake manifold was were clogged on the inside the further back they went. Lucky for me I walked in during the middle of him cleaning it and was able to record on camera what was still there!

Notes from my visit with the machine shop this afternoon:

I usually add intake cleaners after every oil change! This is GOOD and apparently worked well with my head!

Seafoam DOES WORK, but sometimes it's unable to reach as far back into the combustion chamber (where the other half of my carbon issue currently is) to effectively do its job!

My valves actually ended up being in really good condition, he said he might replace two or three due to them "warping" but as you'll be able to tell from the video I'm about to post, nice and clean!!!

I was asked if I've ever overheated, I told him I came really close to it once before in the past due my brush guard smacking the curb and pulling my radiator mounts in which caused the fan to stop spinning (this was repaired later on though way before the infamous shake came into play). He told me that the one time it did come close to overheating, it may have very well caused a leak with my head gasket and it could have blown somewhere. Good to know now!

My intake manifold needed to be cleaned completely out! I've already done this with carburetor cleaner, so I've got a check in the box there! Apparently those small chunks of oil/carbon/whatever that I pulled out of the intake manifold were surely contributing to our problem!

In conclusion, they're not going to charge me as much as I originally thought for the job AND I've narrowed my cause for misfire down that much more! Can't wait to have it back nice and clean!

Here comes the video guys, stand by.. -Lee

 

[OctaneRider03]

Here's the video! Unfortunately, by the time I hit record the settings didn't kick in so forgive me for it being sideways! You get the gist of it though! -Lee

[video=youtube;CXGqVUs558Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXGqVUs558Y&feature=share&list=ULCXGqVUs558Y[/video]

 

[Mooseman]

Probably the reason the head gets so gunked up like that is the same reason the throttle body does too... the design of the crankcase ventilation system. In the old days, the PCV valve would suck the fumes from the crankcase directly into the intake manifold. It would still gunk up the manifold but at least the carburetor or throttle body would not see these fumes from oil and fuel. Now, on our engines, that hose that connects from the valve cover to the resonator air box (the one on top of the engine) dumps the fumes directly to the throttle body, gumming it up along with the manifold.

Running Seafoam on a regular basis does help. Just maybe have to use the spray can type because the brake booster hose is not in the middle of the manifold and the Seafoam might not reach the farthest cylinder (#1).

 

[OctaneRider03]

Probably the reason the head gets so gunked up like that is the same reason the throttle body does too... the design of the crankcase ventilation system. In the old days, the PCV valve would suck the fumes from the crankcase directly into the intake manifold. It would still gunk up the manifold but at least the carburetor or throttle body would not see these fumes from oil and fuel. Now, on our engines, that hose that connects from the valve cover to the resonator air box (the one on top of the engine) dumps the fumes directly to the throttle body, gumming it up along with the manifold.

Running Seafoam on a regular basis does help. Just maybe have to use the spray can type because the brake booster hose is not in the middle of the manifold and the Seafoam might not reach the farthest cylinder (#1).

Presicely. You've just reiterated a great deal of what the gentleman at the machine shop told me in the video. I was hoping somebody would do that actually because I'm sure some folks won't be able to hear the guy completely..

I'm inches away from getting the head back from them.. When this happens, I go in for the kill and order those important parts you've listed to me previously. Then it's go time.

I'm still very confident that the misfire will cease after the reinstall.. I've got three variables to this equation and all of them are in the process of being solved one at a time.. Those variables are: The amount of build up that was found inside the intake manifold itself, as well as the ports I showed on the video. Remember how loose some of those intake manifold screws were? Could this have lead to a potential leak? Second, the amount of actual CARBON that was found on the surface of my pistons in the combustion chamber.. How did that much gunk get THERE of all places that fast? And last, my engine DID come close to overheating just that one time before.. From the looks of my head gasket, I think there was a small leak or maybe something did blow? It's a good thing I have a new one I suppose..

 

[OctaneRider03]

Here come the goods..

 

[Mooseman]

It could be possible that a misfire could be caused by an intake leak. Could also cause extra carbon buildup when the engine might have been trying to compensate by throwing more fuel into the affected cylinders. Also possible that the near overheat didn't cause a blown gasket at that time but just started it on its way to eventual failure. Pieces of the mystery sure seem to fit.

 

[OctaneRider03]

It could be possible that a misfire could be caused by an intake leak. Could also cause extra carbon buildup when the engine might have been trying to compensate by throwing more fuel into the affected cylinders. Also possible that the near overheat didn't cause a blown gasket at that time but just started it on its way to eventual failure. Pieces of the mystery sure seem to fit.

Yep. It's only a matter of time! In any case, regardless of the topic of my thread, folks will still be able to look at everything I've posted and see images first hand of different motor components that they may be dealing with. I mean seriously, I put up pictures of everything from my old and new head gaskets to videos of me describing certain parts that I've taken off and what all I've noticed with some of them..

If this thread doesn't help people out, I don't know what will hah!

Now if I were to take a look over a Trailvoy and see my artical posted over there, THEN we have an issue.. I put this stuff out there freely because it's a learning experience for me too, not so somebody can steal everything and some forum like TrailVoy can credit for it... Anyway, I'll be posting again soon as we go over a how-to with cleaning my combustion chamber! -Lee

 

[OctaneRider03]

Hang in there, things are moving forward..

 

[The_Roadie]

Now if I were to take a look over a Trailvoy and see my artical posted over there, THEN we have an issue.. I put this stuff out there freely because it's a learning experience for me too, not so somebody can steal everything and some forum like TrailVoy can credit for it...

When we started up, THEY accused US of stealing content. Turns out the original poster of the content MAY repost it anywhere they want, or give permission for reposting, so GMTN had done nothing wrong.

Everybody here can be assured, any content stealing is going to result in GMTNation supporting a takedown notice to any other site who hosts such content without permission. We got your back.

 

[warriorpluto]

Will you have pictures of the old valves?

 

[OctaneRider03]

Will you have pictures of the old valves?

You're looking at them. They were already being cleaned by the time I walked in. Do you see those black and white base plates that have long lines going from bottom to top?

Scroll up to my last set of photos that were posted and look at the top two pictures. There they are.

Surprise.

 

[warriorpluto]

Oh ok i see them now. Had to update my tapatalk. Wasn't showing any pictures

 

[OctaneRider03]

Oh ok i see them now. Had to update my tapatalk. Wasn't showing any pictures

Update: In preparation for the upcoming reinstall this week, I'm currently hovering over my pistons giving them a good cleaning. Tons of carbon build up guys, I don't think carburetor cleaner is enough to get all of it off! I'm in the garage now... -Lee

 

[OctaneRider03]

We sprayed down as much as we could. I noticed that with some of the pistons, when I took my towel to clean off the carbon, they still had a "burnt" color too them. Like, no matter how hard I pressed with my attempts to get it all off, it felt smooth yet wouldn't return to the original silver shine.

We went over what all we'll be replacing this week afterwards. I've already purchased a new water pump (my old one was faulty). I'll be getting a new cam phaser and postioner actuater along with a new cam sensor.. Lots of new parts coming into play here, really excited to hear her roar again and see how she does without all the shaking. We finish this project up completely this week! Stay tuned! -Lee

 

[warriorpluto]

What else did you use besides carburetor cleaner? And to bad they don't have headers for our engine. that would have been the icing on the cake to top off all your hard work with extra power

 

[OctaneRider03]

What else did you use besides carburetor cleaner? And to bad they don't have headers for our engine. that would have been the icing on the cake to top off all your hard work with extra power

I used carburetor cleaner and Seafoam.. I got as much carbon and sludge off as I possibly could without damaging the piston side walls. After I was done spraying down and wiping off the top of the pistons with a clean towel, I used a slick coat of oil to slick down the sides of the piston side walls.

Here's the finished product.. Keep in mind that whatever loose carbon was left from tonight will be drained when we run new Ultra through, as well as being blown out through the exhaust once we fire her up again...

 

[Mooseman]

I'd be happy with those results. It's not a full on engine rebuild so there's no way to get it all off. What's left won't affect compression.

I would recommend an oil change if you didn't already drain it and another one right after the initial run-in. Some of the cleaner and gunk could have run down past the piston rings and into the crankcase.

 

[OctaneRider03]

I'd be happy with those results. It's not a full on engine rebuild so there's no way to get it all off. What's left won't affect compression.

I would recommend an oil change if you didn't already drain it and another one right after the initial run-in. Some of the cleaner and gunk could have run down past the piston rings and into the crankcase.

My thoughts exactly. We'll be draining the oil and radiator fluid on either Wednesday or Thursay night just to be on the safe side with everything.. We've got bottles of brand new Ultra just hanging out over there just dying to be poured in! I think we'll be fine with just one oil change after this one. By the time we drain everything here in a few days, it will have given it enough time to let everything settle down.

Those piston tops gave me hell MooseMan! Question, I noticed two little notches or indentions on the center left of each piston. What are those for?

I looked over at my cams last night and saw the phaser you spoke of.. It did say Delphi and had a part number to go with it! I'll have it replaced by Thursday!

 

[Mooseman]

Those are for valve clearance to ensure the pistons don't contact the valves. I guess only the exhaust valves stay open long enough to warrant them on that side only. Some have them for both, some have none.

 

[OctaneRider03]

Those are for valve clearance to ensure the pistons don't contact the valves. I guess only the exhaust valves stay open long enough to warrant them on that side only. Some have them for both, some have none.

Thanks bud!

Here's a picture I took of the new water pump I got from the dealership this morning! This one goes out to all of you that maybe DON'T know what it looks like!

 

[GCTB1289]

nice write up so far. good job. i'll def be referencing when i rebuild my motor when i get back from korea. Definitely looking forward to the finished outcome.


Sempre Fi brother

 

[NJTB]

Octanerider;
Just curious, what brand of gas do you use?

 

[OctaneRider03]

nice write up so far. good job. i'll def be referencing when i rebuild my motor when i get back from korea. Definitely looking forward to the finished outcome.


Sempre Fi brother

Thanks man! Good looking out! Have fun out there while you can!

You guys can call me Lee! I run 93 Octane from Shell (only because that's what PCMFORLESS recommended after my retune!)

My cylinder head is coming back in three days. Here's what it looks like NOW after the cleaning.. Be sure to look back a few pages in my thread to see what it looked like before they cleaned it!

Oh yeah... Completely worth the investment..