What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

[Mooseman]

Yeah, stuff and people don't wanna work at those temps

Went for a 160km ride. Wasn't supposed to be that long but trail signage is so bad, I got quasi lost and took me out further than I intended. Was a nice day to ride however, once the sun went down, it started getting colder (nothing like northern SK tho ). Even with my handwarmers, fingertips and my right thumb got chilly and was worse when I had to stop and look at my phone to get my bearings on the map. I'm gonna set up and mount my tablet so I can use the mapping app while riding. Also have to carry my muffs with me in case I need them to protect my hands.

 

[Reprise]

Fancy that... I also had a long drive today, that I wasn't planning on when I woke up this morning.

Drove the Voy about 130mi, round trip, to pick up something I've been looking for, for a few weeks now. (Shh... it's a secret, for now. All will be revealed, soon. LOL)
Cloudy & cold, but it was damned good to get out of the house for a bit.

 

[Mooseman]

Oops. I didn't realize this was the WDYDTYGMT thread. I should have specified SLED ride and posted in the WAYDT thread.

 

[Blckshdw]

As for mine, finished charging it. This post could go in the battery thread, but since I hadn't driven it in over a week, probably closer to 2, it didn't have enough juice to start last night. Was going to scout out a park location for a work team outing for this morning, after my shift. Glad I decided to check, otherwise I would have run into that surprise in 30 minutes.

Threw the charger on it and let it run overnight. Peeked in the garage this morning to see the amber light, now a slow blinking green one. Will have to be more mindful when the EXT is gonna be sitting that long

 

[Mike534x]

If you have access to a press, the bearing in the assembly can be replaced. It's a 6303, and available from several sources / manufacturers. Not that the cost for the full assembly is exorbitant (it runs about $20 or so; I was looking for one for my Envoy, which is howling right now, especially if it's not started on the regular.)

But... when I found out the bearing can be replaced, and the rest of the assy reinstalled (no 'new bolt' requirement, etc.) -- and that a bearing costs about $8 for a decent Timken... I decided to order up the bearing and try my luck at replacing it. Got the bearing yesterday from Amazon; once I get the Accord out of the garage, it should take me less than 30min to swap them out (and I'll post back my results).

Amazon sells a two-pack for $16 -- and when I got the order yesterday, I got 2 x twin-pack -- so I have *four* bearings, and only need two (one for each GM truck -- the Envoy now; the Sierra at some point down the road. Net cost: $4 for each bearing.
At that price, you better believe I'll try and just do the bearing replacement.
If I fail, the cost for a new assembly is only $20. But... I won't fail

Wait, you can swap the bearings on these??? I wish I saw this sooner before ordering a new one lol . I may give that a shot actually, I could keep the spare for my Dads Yukon in that case.


Haven't done much recently to the truck, been really paranoid so I keep rechecking the PS Fluid and so far its still full. Downside, its still got a whine to it while running so it looks like the pump is being replaced eventually. I am not looking forward to do the lines after seeing whats involved. Also tried getting in contact with SuspensionMaxx about the end links situation. No response to my emails, and didn't get through to someone when I called. Not exactly happy with how thats turning out, so just kinda juggling if I want to fork over the cash to rebuild them with new bushings and making it a yearly thing or just buy Moogs and get 3 years out of a set each time.

 

[Reprise]

Wait, you can swap the bearings on these??? I wish I saw this sooner before ordering a new one lol . I may give that a shot actually, I could keep the spare for my Dads Yukon in that case.

I discovered it quite by accident, actually. At first, I was just looking for info on a straight replacement. I happened to bump into the bearing info when I was confirming the type of noise I was hearing, etc.

If not for that, I'd have purchased the entire assembly and not thought twice about it.

 

[Mooseman]

Drove the Av to do a few errands with the Mrs. Pretty cold today (-17c) and found that the tire noise now sounded more like a bad hub. It would get worse when I would put on the brakes. Ordered a pair of Timkens on Amazon. Don't want to deal with el-cheapo hubs while towing the trailer later.

Also noticed that the oil pressure is again running on the low side, just over 20 psi while cruising at 120km/h. It's OK cold but as it warms up it drops. Doesn't go down to 0 but it's just uncomfortably low especially once summer heat kicks in. So I'm planning on possibly doing the oil pump in the spring. Although not as bad as on a 360, I still don't want to drop the oil pan. I'll probably first try soaking the pickup tube for a few days in chem-dip and/or acetone after draining the oil. If nothing helps without opening up the motor, then I'll replace the pump with a high volume type.

And, also noticed a brown oil stain in the snow. No idea where from yet

 

[coolride]

Cleaning up the back side of this rocker involved working with a needle scaller and then sand paper. Brushed on 3 coats of Rustoleum primer and 2 coats of high gloss almond. I'll brush on 1 more coat and call it good.


Lots of surface corrosion and flaking paint, but no serious rot. Caught this rust in time.

 

[Sparky]

@Mooseman when I had oil pressure oddities on my 07 it was the oil pickup tube O ring. I honestly didn't find the pan drop that bad to do. Front diff etc comes right out with a few bolts, no stupid embedded in the side of the pan nonsense and plenty of room to work.

 

[cornchip]

Get to diagnose my 5th no start with my TB tonight.....not that I'm keeping score. Same old issue, I hear the starter relay pull in and no crank. It's gotta be a grounding issue with all the snow we've had. I'm not going to feel to bad when I get a new truck.

 

[cornchip]

Get to diagnose my 5th no start with my TB tonight.....not that I'm keeping score. Same old issue, I hear the starter relay pull in and no crank. It's gotta be a grounding issue with all the snow we've had. I'm not going to feel to bad when I get a new truck.

Some good news. Tonight it barely started after 3 attempts.

I going to have to chalk this one up to abuse on my part. Yesterday morning we had a big snow storm, and on my way to work I decided to be the first to open up a concession line that was heavily drifted in with snow. Seems I packed the entire underside of the truck with ice and snow....including the engine compartment.

My next move is to find a way to thaw the TB and see what the damage is. Already I can see the radiator or hoses are leaking and the power steering cooler I added is bent from the force bashing drifts at speed. It was fun.

 

[BrianF]

Replaced my passenger side low beam along with the marker light. Easy enough as it was actually warm out. My wife is taking the tb to the city tomorrow, so she better have lights.

 

[Mooseman]

I used the Avy to pull my sled out of my front yard. It was parked just behind the snow bank and when I went to move it too slow, it hit the bank and sunk the track in the loose snow. Since the sled weighs more than 700 lbs, I knew better than trying to move it myself so the Avy with a tow strap made short work of it. Next time I'll know to just gun it from the start and plow through it.

 

[Mike534x]

This happened yesterday, but got the Envoy stuck trying to leave our alley way. The city plowed and made a wall that was about knee deep. I goofed and let off the gas as I got half way through, took about an hour to get unstuck. Pretty sure the neighbors didn't appreciate the 7 AM wake up call lol. Only evidence left behind were the tiny specks of rubber. Though that little ordeal has been getting me to think about getting a lift kit

Dropped it off at the shop earlier today for an oil change and rotation. They're going to try finding the source of the turbo sound, and the clunking/banging in the rear and whatnot.

 

[Dadwagon]

I filled the cargo area with abandoned/junked outdoor flooring tiles, to be repurposed for spouse's garden walkway. Loving the ability of this truck and not caring about getting it dirty.

 

[Beacon]

changed oil, rotated tires

 

[Mooseman]

Drove the Avy to an appointment. Notice that the left front brakes are grinding. They had been fine since I bought it except that they were rusty from sitting at the auction lot. Used car Dealer was supposed to replace them but never did but they did clean up by themselves and worked fine. So now, along with the Timken hubs, I'll be slapping in ACDelco Pro pads and rotors that I just ordered on Amazon. The rotors were warehouse deals returns so a good cost savings there. Also ordered guide pin seals just in case as some on the rear were torn and didn't have replacements when I did them.

 

[Mike534x]

Got the Envoy back, fresh oil and inspected. Source of my turbo sound is the serpentine belt, there's a small bit that has a sliver missing on the outer edge. So that'll need to be changed later on, and the rattle is the spare tire in the rear. As suspected, the locking mechanism is rusted completely. The tire has almost no air, so despite being locked it has enough play to wiggle around. Found one on RockAuto awhile back, I think its about $80 or something like that for a whole new assembly. In the mean time, I'll just live with it like I have until that's taken care of. The shop also tighened down the S-maxx links a little bit, just enough to get some pressure back on the bushings to eliminate some of the play until I figure out what to do with those. Buddy also got me a can of Mopar CCC that can be sprayed through the intake. Might give that a shot for cleaning the upper portion of the engine, before doing the valve soak with the AC Delco foaming cleaner. Ordered up a spray gun + canister, and small can of POR15. Just slowly gathering what I need to hit spots with surface rust (on the frame/strut area), and undercoat Fluid Film once its warmer.

Oh and one of the shop managers complimented the truck, told me again they don't really see too many Envoys/Trailblazers roll in that aren't destroyed or running solid with 200k+.

 

[TollKeeper]

Got home last night, and as soon as I hit my brakes to wait for the garage to open, I heard a very distinct grinding noise from the rear passenger side. Pulled back out of my driveway, turned around, and backed into the garage. Pulled the passenger wheel off, and the inner pad is completely down to the backplate, but the outer pad is only half way. Before I run off to the parts store, I need to take it apart to see if the sliders are messed up, or??

Cant find anything wrong, sliders are working perfectly, caliper bracket is rust free... I am at a loss. But I did find that the wheel seal is weaping.. So will need to get some bearings and seals ordered.

Go to the parts store, get new pads and hardware, already had some new rotors. Get it all installed, and we are back off and running..

Never took apart a locker axle, so need to see whats all involved with that, before I go digging into it.

 

[Sparky]

Just driving it. I need to load test the battery, it has been really slow cranking again lately. Battery is only maybe 3 years old? AGM from NAPA. could be a tired worn out starter too I guess. It is only 14 years old after all....

 

[Blckshdw]

Sorta in the same boat. After reading through that other battery thread, I bought a bluetooth monitor and hooked it up yesterday. While the truck cranked normally when I pulled it out into the driveway, the device said the battery was low @12.2. My drives are usually less than 10 minutes, and I don't have to leave my neighborhood.

Put the charger on it for a bit until it read full, now will see what it looks like daily as far as discharge goes. I've got the Duracell AGM that's less than a year old.

 

[Reprise]

Never took apart a locker axle, so need to see whats all involved with that, before I go digging into it.

It shouldn't be that bad; being a semi-floater, it'll have C-clips holding the axle housings in. You'll want to do both at once, so have the truck someplace where you have the room to extract both axles. You can tap out the C-clips with the ends facing you (spin / turn as needed), and then fish them out from the pumpkin.

You may have to knock out a retaining pin (thick, so really a 'rod'), but the locker assy / spider gears / etc. shouldn't need to be touched, unless you can see obvious damage (or you wanted to replace it with something stronger).

Probably the worst part of the job is if the axles are stuck / frozen.
Definitely look up the procedure; I'm not covering everything here.

 

[Reprise]

(Mods: I know I'm double-posting, but we can't add quotes to an edited post. Feel free to combine, and I'll beg forgiveness)

After reading through that other battery thread, I bought a bluetooth monitor and hooked it up yesterday. While the truck cranked normally when I pulled it out into the driveway, the device said the battery was low @12.2.

Not sure which one you got, but the one I have reads a little lower than actual (and if it's going to be off, I'd rather have it on the low side than the high). Take a meter and compare, once the battery has been sitting at least 30min from any charging source.
The delta on mine is fairly consistent, so if yours is the same, once you establish that with a couple of readings you'll know when you need to go out and start the thing.

The other issue is that the BT can be a bit weak at times; my theory is that the hood / battery blocks signal a bit. So you may notice no updates for a bit; then when you get into closer range, it starts updating.

Even with those faults, it's cheaper than a new battery.

You can also get the app that lets you track up to four (4) batteries at once -- but there's a charge for that app. I got mine a long time ago, when it was still free.

 

[Blckshdw]

Not sure which one you got, but the one I have reads a little lower than actual (and if it's going to be off, I'd rather have it on the low side than the high). Take a meter and compare, once the battery has been sitting at least 30min from any charging source.
The delta on mine is fairly consistent, so if yours is the same, once you establish that with a couple of readings you'll know when you need to go out and start the thing.

That's the one I bought as well. I did see some reviews that mentioned it read lower than with a DMM, I had the same thought, rather it reads lower than actual, if it was gonna be off.

The other issue is that the BT can be a bit weak at times; my theory is that the hood / battery blocks signal a bit. So you may notice no updates for a bit; then when you get into closer range, it starts updating.

The signal has been pretty good for me so far. Better than the radio anyway. I was camped on the couch watching TV after the initial setup, and started getting alerts about the low voltage., and like 38% capacity. That's what prompted me to charge it, thinking it wouldn't be accurate off the bat like that. I did notice it will disconnect for a few hours, and then randomly reconnect and update the gaps depending on where I am in the house.

 

[Reprise]

I should've stated what the delta was, in my last post - the device consistently shows about 0.2 volts pessimistic (so it's not 'that' far off, but still 'off')

Also, in the 'settings' on the app, you have some control over the frequency of alerts (and can set two thresholds for addn'l alerts, based on 10% discharge increments).

This chart below isn't the exact one I wanted, as I tend to go by the "50%" rule (e.g.; 11.99 volts is the most I like to let a conventional FLA battery discharge). But it's the first one that I found on my HDD, so here you go:

(note: AGMs can discharge down to 30% SoC before they're harmed... and as I look at this chart, you'd think it was geared toward AGM, but it's supposed to be for FLA-type batts)

 

[BrianF]

Since my o2 sensor has been changed, my mileage has been improving. Although temperature has played a big part. 17L/100km doing a leisurely highway drive in -35c to 12.3 at a nice -2 today.

We clocked about 500km today in the tb and she never missed a beat. In celebration of this feat, I ordered some stabilus struts for the liftgate from rock. Their shipping was ludicrous so I will buy an accessory belt locally.

 

[Beacon]

2 days in a row above freezing. time for a wash
Surprisingly, I didn't have to wait in line at the car wash. On a Saturday to boot.

 

[Matt]

Just put mine out in the rain to wash some crud off it.

 

[BrianF]

My liftgate struts came in yesterday, the expected delivery date was the 8th. Way to go what ever postal services were involved!!

Super simple to install and no more smashed heads.

 

[Sparky]

Did not drive it to work. If you recall I mentioned slow cranking recently. Well, battery won't provide more than a bunch of dim lights and when turning the key it just goes clunk and loses power. Dang it. I Bought the NAPA AGM battery 2-3 years ago was intended to avoid this.

 

[christo829]

Driver's side wheel bearing was starting to sing to me on those trips over to my aunt's house, so took advantage of the nice weather last night and changed it out. Seems I bent the shield a little, as I can hear it rubbing, but at least I don't have to turn up the radio to hear over the bearing hum any more! Might get around to doing the passenger's side this weekend, and straightening that shield...

 

[Mooseman]

Did not drive it to work. If you recall I mentioned slow cranking recently. Well, battery won't provide more than a bunch of dim lights and when turning the key it just goes clunk and loses power. Dang it. I Bought the NAPA AGM battery 2-3 years ago was intended to avoid this.

Why not try a desulfator? Most you'd lose is $20.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQ5X91I/?tag=gmtnation-20

Yesterday, took the Avy for a wash despite it having a bad hub and a front brake grinding. Man she was smelling like burning brakes by the time I got home. Probably the other brake is overcompensating for the lack of braking from the other wheel. Just waiting for the weather to be nice enough to do them.

Took the TB for a 45 minute drive to pick up a used RV GPS last evening. Still running like a champ at 163k km.

 

[Sparky]

It is under warranty, let them deal with it.

 

[Sparky]

New battery. 3 year old one tested at 47 CCA. No that is not a typo. No wonder I couldn't get more than a click out of it.

 

[TollKeeper]

Out driving it like a boss in the fresh 30 inches of wet heavy snow. No one else in my street can get out, but I can. G80 for the win. 4 wheel roster tails for the win.

 

[Mike534x]

Changed the oil, had about 3.5k miles @ 33% according to the OLM. Filled it up with Valvoline 5-30W HM semi-synthetic since its getting warmer out. I was going to do full synthetic, but I wanted to see if using the two would make a difference as far as oil burning goes. The rear main seal seems to be getting worse, I'm noticing more "drops" of oil pooling in the same spot when shes parked in the garage. Otherwise, the engine is nice and quiet. I've noticed as the oil gets more use the valvetrain seems to make more noise.

Also dropped her off this morning to have the new cat cut and welded in. So far so good, low end torque feels much better and I'm not easing into the acceleration more to get up to speed. The exhaust tone is a tiny bit louder as well, so I guess my theory on it being partially clogged was correct (aside from the obvious nails in a coffee can raddling sound).

Summer plans are being changed up, I rinsed the frame off and noticed more surface rust appear with heavier stuff popping up around the brackets where the body mounts are. My knowledge of handling restoration is not the best, but I'm going to try cleaning the heavier stuff up and use a metal prep spray to get good adhesion for the POR-15. There's a bit of surface rust inside the frame rails, so I plan on snagging 4 cans of Eastwood Internal Frame Paint, and I think that should be enough to protect the inside. The light surface rust shouldn't be too bad to hit with Fluid Film, or with something stronger like RP-342 and should keep it from spreading or getting any worse without stripping the existing coating off the entire frame.

 

[Sparky]

Drove it to work. Nice strong engine cranking again. Wheee.

 

[Matt]

Nothing as I'm currently driving a Dodge Grand Caravan...in 85° weather.

 

[BrianF]

I put just shy of 1000km on it over the weekend. Visited my parents. So I have some questions about fuel quality in my area. All should be from the same refinery as its the same store.

Fuel from my town was giving me 15L/100km average. Fuel from the same store but different locations netted me better.

Heavy head and crosswind gave me 13.2 at or just below posted limits. A bit of cross wind on the way home but 10k over the limits got me 12.45.

At any rate, the old girl keeps going whenever I need it to.

 

[Mooseman]

Today it got above 5c so tackled the front brakes and hubs on the Avy. Didn't go quite as planned. Started on the left side. As expected, the pads were worn to the metal. Then went to remove the hub and it was welded into the knuckle. It just wouldn't budge. Tried to use the trick from South Main I had just recently seen but there wasn't any flat spots on the knuckle for the bolt to push against. Tried the slide hammer, nada. Dragged out the torches and heated the knuckle in two spots. That and the slide hammer eventually got it out. New one goes in after cleaning out the rust and lots of antiseize. Go to plug the ABS sensor and it's not the same plug! It's the bigger one like on 360's. Checked the boxes and it's the right part number but both were wrong. Right boxes, wrong parts. Basically got the ones for the previous generation truck with the larger plug. Instead of waiting, I just spliced the old connector on it.

Back to the brakes, notice on the caliper a greasy grimy film. Check the inside of the piston boots, one is leaking . Before calling my local parts place, take apart the other side. It's not leaking but the boots are burnt and could smell it. Took both off and got a pair of rebuilts. Not bad at $70 each. I just hope they last.

Get the brakes buttoned up, soldered on the ABS connector and then packed up for the night as it was starting to get cold again. Started at noon, finished at 7:30. I've been spoiled with the ability to do this kind of work quickly on the TB's and the Saab. I've been able to do a hub in 45 minutes in the past. We'll see what surprises await for me on the right side.