That requires the desire to search for the info instead of just asking. I am 73. I am lazy. Case closed.
What are you doing today? [Part II]
- Thread starter HARDTRAILZ
- Start date
Blackstone labs report, compared to Speediagnostix, is not as detailed or thorough. Blackstone is less expensive though. I think by $15. My neighbor across the street has an F150 5.4 that me and my shop owner friend put an engine in about 1.5 years ago. Speediagnostix oil analysis reports for that engine is 4 pages of info. IIRC, Blackstone reports are 2 pages. I have never compared line by line though. You can visit the Speediagnostix web site to compare.
BrianF
Member
I finished up the brakes on our new to us 2020 5th gen Ram 1500. I bled 1.5 litres of brake fluid through it, greased the slide pins, popped the rotors, antiseize on the hubs and a little grease in the hubs. It is functioning great.
Today, I went to change the gear oil front and back. Noticed some weeping from the disconnect actuator. The rubber seal had a slight imperfection so I white trashed it with a little rtv to smooth things out. During this, noticed the driver side cv inner tripot had way to much lateral play. I am part way tearing it out and found the dam shaft splines are seized in the hub bearing. This girl has never been apart from what I can see.
I cycled some heat, penetrant and a hammer. No dice. I left it soaking and will try again tomorrow. Napa had a new cv in stock so I am ready to go.
The front gear oil looked damn near original, so its a good time to swap it out.
Today, I went to change the gear oil front and back. Noticed some weeping from the disconnect actuator. The rubber seal had a slight imperfection so I white trashed it with a little rtv to smooth things out. During this, noticed the driver side cv inner tripot had way to much lateral play. I am part way tearing it out and found the dam shaft splines are seized in the hub bearing. This girl has never been apart from what I can see.
I cycled some heat, penetrant and a hammer. No dice. I left it soaking and will try again tomorrow. Napa had a new cv in stock so I am ready to go.
The front gear oil looked damn near original, so its a good time to swap it out.
BrianF
Member
@movietvet there is no c clip from what I can see. The inner tripot came off the differential stub shaft easy enough but the rest had been a nightmare.
so, an all night soak, cycled more heat and wouldn't even budge with an air chisel. Ok, picked up an 8 pound sledge. Nothing. Began mushrooming the threads. Beat on it more. Nothing at all. Couldnt remove the cv/bearing as one as there is not enough clearance to get the bolts out. Had to beat the knuckle to get the lower ball joint off just to find there is not enough clearance to pull the whole knuckle.
Well, I put it all back together and had to clean up the threads with a grinder to get the axle nut back on. Had to use the 3/4" drive ratchet and a snipe to put the nut on, just for it to strip before fully seating on the hub. Well, piss on you, the rust will hold it together long enough for me to Jam it into a river.
After the long weekend, we'll look for a shop to get a second opinion. On a good note, I got the front and rear gear oil done. Used a left over half bag of valvoline gear oil from the skid steer hubs. Where were these my whole life? Topped the bag off with my favorite group 4 based 75w90 and it went quick.
I still need to pick up a pan/filter, fluid for the 8 speed and figure out what tractor fluid to use in the transfer case. Then start this all over again with the other vehicles we got....
so, an all night soak, cycled more heat and wouldn't even budge with an air chisel. Ok, picked up an 8 pound sledge. Nothing. Began mushrooming the threads. Beat on it more. Nothing at all. Couldnt remove the cv/bearing as one as there is not enough clearance to get the bolts out. Had to beat the knuckle to get the lower ball joint off just to find there is not enough clearance to pull the whole knuckle.
Well, I put it all back together and had to clean up the threads with a grinder to get the axle nut back on. Had to use the 3/4" drive ratchet and a snipe to put the nut on, just for it to strip before fully seating on the hub. Well, piss on you, the rust will hold it together long enough for me to Jam it into a river.
After the long weekend, we'll look for a shop to get a second opinion. On a good note, I got the front and rear gear oil done. Used a left over half bag of valvoline gear oil from the skid steer hubs. Where were these my whole life? Topped the bag off with my favorite group 4 based 75w90 and it went quick.
I still need to pick up a pan/filter, fluid for the 8 speed and figure out what tractor fluid to use in the transfer case. Then start this all over again with the other vehicles we got....
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I can't ever remember that happening on any of my GMT360s. I guess this is on the Ram? 2020? And you're not even in the salt rust belt. That's all I'm sayin' ... 
A large 3 arm gear puller should be able do it. I've seen SMA use an air chisel be able to push it in. If it's really that stuck, a shop might have to heat the hub and will need to replace that as well. At the absolute worse, might have to cut the axle stub still in the hub.
A large 3 arm gear puller should be able do it. I've seen SMA use an air chisel be able to push it in. If it's really that stuck, a shop might have to heat the hub and will need to replace that as well. At the absolute worse, might have to cut the axle stub still in the hub.
I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about having a problem removing at the transaxle. At the hub, there is no cir clip. There may not even be a cir clip at the transaxle.
You can thread the nut back on to where the outer edge of nut is completely flush with the end of shaft. Then use a large dead blow hammer.
I lived in the rust belt before, KC, Mo., and never had one I could not get apart.
HEAT!!!!!!!
You can thread the nut back on to where the outer edge of nut is completely flush with the end of shaft. Then use a large dead blow hammer.
I lived in the rust belt before, KC, Mo., and never had one I could not get apart.
HEAT!!!!!!!
Ilikemy3s
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2011
- Posts
- 410
Helping wife to prepping to make Easter dish and dessert for family gathering on Sunday. Later picking up daughter's ride from shop and swapping rides at her work so I can get my 05' SWB TB back she had to borrow.
BrianF
Member
Yeah, this Ram is a pain. I remember similar but not as severe when working on my 2011 Ram 1500. We do get heavy potash on the roads in the winter but we just don't have the humidity like you eastern boys. Its bad but not Ontario bad.
I am contemplating a large puller and just ripping it all apart. Hell, was even considering pulling the new CV apart and trying to mate the new inner tripot to the old cv........ regardless, I do not like having something that is not serviceable.
I am contemplating a large puller and just ripping it all apart. Hell, was even considering pulling the new CV apart and trying to mate the new inner tripot to the old cv........ regardless, I do not like having something that is not serviceable.
flyboy2610
Member
My favorite penetrating oil is Free All. I've had really good success using it.
I would try soaking it down really well with it, let it sit overnight, then use a large 3-jaw puller with an impact gun. Somethings got to give!
I would try soaking it down really well with it, let it sit overnight, then use a large 3-jaw puller with an impact gun. Somethings got to give!
BrianF
Member
Its still in the shop sitting (lucky to have shop room and a surplus of vehicles) it was soaked with pb blaster. I am thinking of using some version of a large puller, whether a 3 jaw or even a deep axle. Regardless, I would sacrifice the bearing.
BrianF
Member
Round 1..... no dice. Used the puller and the 8 pound. Hopefull it might have budged, just a bit.... almost broke the windshield as a small impact socket I put on the forcing screw went airborne after a sledge strike. Made that nice noise steel makes hitting glass......
Tomorrow, I will go more primal. I have a huge steel breaker bar to lock the wheel lugs and will break out the 3/4" ratchet to give the forcing screw much more than the impact could give.
Tomorrow, I will go more primal. I have a huge steel breaker bar to lock the wheel lugs and will break out the 3/4" ratchet to give the forcing screw much more than the impact could give.
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When that thing breaks loose, stand back/by for a "shot" sound and maybe something flying. I still say heat or remove the entire assembly and take to a press.
BrianF
Member
BrianF
Member
Ok, the truck is booked in with a local heavy duty mechanic. Great guy, by the way. Swinging by the dealer parts tomorrow for a new hub just in case. While the dealer wants to absolve them of this, they at least are offering needed parts at a steep discount. Whatever, you have to pay to play.
I rolled the Jeep in to begin its maintenance. That thing is a fickle bitch. In 10 minutes, thats setup and cleanup, the rear diff was done. Took a while to remove the front splash guard as its an interesting contraption (will be much easier now on) but what a mess for the front diff. Just poor access. The fill is recessed in and you require an ability to contort and a liberal acceptance for gear oil to drip on you. The drain, while easily visible is partially obscured by yet another sort of sheet metal cross member. No, im not messing with another thing. Needed an 8mm Allen to open the drain plug and 8mm hex on a small extension for the fill. Either way, its done.
I found I was low on ATF so I'll do the transfer case tomorrow. Its actually easy to access with nothing to remove.
I rolled the Jeep in to begin its maintenance. That thing is a fickle bitch. In 10 minutes, thats setup and cleanup, the rear diff was done. Took a while to remove the front splash guard as its an interesting contraption (will be much easier now on) but what a mess for the front diff. Just poor access. The fill is recessed in and you require an ability to contort and a liberal acceptance for gear oil to drip on you. The drain, while easily visible is partially obscured by yet another sort of sheet metal cross member. No, im not messing with another thing. Needed an 8mm Allen to open the drain plug and 8mm hex on a small extension for the fill. Either way, its done.
I found I was low on ATF so I'll do the transfer case tomorrow. Its actually easy to access with nothing to remove.
BrianF
Member
Truck is back. He had to torch it out. For fun, he tried the 20 ton press. No dice. The lower ball joint was loose as well, of course nothing local for just the ball joint itself. Napa only carried the complete A arm with it. Great. Oh well, its back in action.
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flyboy2610
Member
Among other very robust Dell Computers I rely upon, the best being my Dell Precision Model #7760...is it's Brother Back-Up Machine, the Model #7720 that carries with it some very serious, high performance hardware that needs to be monitored for ensuring Air Flow and occasionally, pulling off the Cooling Fans and Copper Heat Pipe Vent Assemblies to refresh it with Arctic 4 Thermal Paste, and if needs be, changing out the Green and Blue Thermal Pad Strips, too.
But when you can hear either one or both Fans making ANY kind of Racket, it is NOT the time to just blow out the Dust, slap on the paste and re-tighten down the Mounting Hardware... as it was when as soon as I received a Boot Up F1 Message:
"Warning: Cooling Fan Inoperative!"
So What to do NOW, Right...? I mean THIS is a nearly decade old, fairly expensive Very High End Work Horse of a Machine and finding Top Quality Off-The-Shelf Mike Dell OEM Replacement Server Parts that don't get VERY Expensive is often a REAL challenge, especially any that are "Prepped for Direct to Tech Installation...".
Amazon and eBay Both...? Sorry... They had "Left and Right Fans ONLY..." for over One Hundred Bucks (or $68.00 a Piece) ! So I bailed on them and did a generic DuckDuckGo search and found THESE Dudes down in Texas. THEY had a BNIB (Brand New In Box) Dell OEM PRECISELY THE RIGHT Full CPU-GPU OEM Mounts & Copper Cooler Pipes Kit for Only $25.00 + S&H. They call themselves: The Parts People.
So if you have a Legacy Laptop that is making strange noises and what-not... Keep THESE Folks in Mind via their On-Line Store "Parts-People.com"... and I could not be happier if they sent me Twin Black Kittens! Here are the Goodies and The Dope on The Folks:
PS: Superb Customer On-Line Service, Good Communication and Very Thoughtful Packing, S&H with a 2-4 Day Ground Delivery to Florida.
But when you can hear either one or both Fans making ANY kind of Racket, it is NOT the time to just blow out the Dust, slap on the paste and re-tighten down the Mounting Hardware... as it was when as soon as I received a Boot Up F1 Message:
"Warning: Cooling Fan Inoperative!"
So What to do NOW, Right...? I mean THIS is a nearly decade old, fairly expensive Very High End Work Horse of a Machine and finding Top Quality Off-The-Shelf Mike Dell OEM Replacement Server Parts that don't get VERY Expensive is often a REAL challenge, especially any that are "Prepped for Direct to Tech Installation...".
Amazon and eBay Both...? Sorry... They had "Left and Right Fans ONLY..." for over One Hundred Bucks (or $68.00 a Piece) ! So I bailed on them and did a generic DuckDuckGo search and found THESE Dudes down in Texas. THEY had a BNIB (Brand New In Box) Dell OEM PRECISELY THE RIGHT Full CPU-GPU OEM Mounts & Copper Cooler Pipes Kit for Only $25.00 + S&H. They call themselves: The Parts People.
So if you have a Legacy Laptop that is making strange noises and what-not... Keep THESE Folks in Mind via their On-Line Store "Parts-People.com"... and I could not be happier if they sent me Twin Black Kittens! Here are the Goodies and The Dope on The Folks:
PS: Superb Customer On-Line Service, Good Communication and Very Thoughtful Packing, S&H with a 2-4 Day Ground Delivery to Florida.
BrianF
Member
Well, as things change out here, we decided that we are going to sell our little 2004 Escape 3.0. The wheel bearing I replaced sounds like its going bad. This was an expensive SKF and unsure why but perhaps I erred on install. There is a CEL back on, last I recall it was intermittent bank 2 O2 sensor. The cam seal at the water pump pulley outlet seeps oil as well.
While my youngest likes it and may take her drivers test in it, it will likely be gone this spring. The Trailblazer has been with us from the start and regardless of its issues, it stays.
I start my new gig in about a month as I got the promotion I applied for. I wont have to park in the real shady area of Crimetown so likely I'll commute with my Grand Cherokee. I suppose I have to look the part and not like a rubbie.
While my youngest likes it and may take her drivers test in it, it will likely be gone this spring. The Trailblazer has been with us from the start and regardless of its issues, it stays.
I start my new gig in about a month as I got the promotion I applied for. I wont have to park in the real shady area of Crimetown so likely I'll commute with my Grand Cherokee. I suppose I have to look the part and not like a rubbie.