Agreed, I have reverse LEDs with projectors on them like Garth's, but I'd sure like a pair with SMD's on the sides like those aboveHARDTRAILZ said:
Support Group/Thread For Mod Addiction or MA
- Thread starter BlazingTrails
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Blckshdw
Moderator
The bubbles, are called optics. Some SMD LEDs have them built in, others have multiple optics that can be attached to them depending on the beam pattern you want to achieve, flood vs spot, and some degrees in between.Mounce said:Also have projector-ended leds in my reverse lights on the stang and TB, they're great but there is bettermine cost $15 a pair, if you are willing to spend $30+ there's much better ones with (as I've called them recently) bubble-style chips like what's in cree flashlights and they're hella bright.
Pic of what mine look like:
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I don't know how much brighter they are then the bulbs I have, but some of those are crazy expensive. Mine hit the reflector bowl like a standard bulb would. A little brighter than stock and pure white. I am happy with them so far.
Yours hit the whole reflector housing, but I bet Garth's are way brighter when looking straight at them from behind
- Apr 27, 2014
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Mounce
Member
HARDTRAILZ said:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321233254560&alt=webCapote said:
They've gotten cheaper since I bought them. Also, they gave a supposed cree LED behind the "projector" which you can see in the pics. That's the same seller that I got my two pairs from.
-if you fancy something brighter:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111294916568&alt=web
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Those don't look bad. Aaron need to buy a set so I can see if they are brighter than mine. if they are when he is sleeping I will swap them with mine before he leaves :yeS:
You mocheenur...., that's what I get for giving you my old LED's? For shaaaaaameBlazingTrails said:Those don't look bad. Aaron need to buy a set so I can see if they are brighter than mine. if they are when he is sleeping I will swap them with mine before he leaves
Garth i'm gonna look into those LED bulbs brother
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Good news, Goodyear called me and said they will give me a $160 credit for for my Dunlop tires on the F150 due to the uneven tread wear and dry rot. That was the pro rated amount based on how many miles we had on the tires. Luckily I bought the warranty with the tires.
We are going with the Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrian Adventure 255/70R16. It has very good ratings. 10/10 on wet and dry conditions and 9/10 for snow. Also it is rated for 60,000 miles which is a plus. After the credit and tire shop discount, they are only $167 per tire. Going to get them installed on Saturday.
We are going with the Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrian Adventure 255/70R16. It has very good ratings. 10/10 on wet and dry conditions and 9/10 for snow. Also it is rated for 60,000 miles which is a plus. After the credit and tire shop discount, they are only $167 per tire. Going to get them installed on Saturday.
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Yeah man. We need all the traction we can get with her light 2WD F150. Those Dunlop tires were garbage anways. The tires would spin on wet pavement like they were on ice. These tires should be safer for her. Not a bad deal either. I believe they said regular price per tire is $230.BlazingTrails said:Nice bro!! Nothing like a new set of tires
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I was really exited when I got my wheels. My old tires were shot and I didn't feel safe. Love those nittos they are badass.
Mounce
Member
Okay, this is for you guys that don't believe in anything but soldering (like I've came to be since joining here and actually learning how to solder). Gonna need to solder about ten wires tomorrow and after soldering the 6-hi mod diode chain I realized that it's extremely hard to hold the solder, the iron, and the wires in question at the same time so I made this to act as a third hand, I believe that's actually what they're called too.
And yes, I'm aware that you can buy one of these premade for this purpose but who don't like making tools and saving a few bucks? Used some alligator clamps and one wire coat hanger, should work very well for light wires.
-looks like tapa doubled one pic..
And yes, I'm aware that you can buy one of these premade for this purpose but who don't like making tools and saving a few bucks? Used some alligator clamps and one wire coat hanger, should work very well for light wires.
-looks like tapa doubled one pic..
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- Apr 27, 2014
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That's cool bro, I don't have a helping hand either. I have sever alligator clips that I soldered in different configuration. When I solder wires together I put the iron in a Stand and hold the wires. I enjoy all types of soldering, it is as much a hobby for me as a job
Mounce
Member
No one? Lol I've just never really tried soldering and didn't know the proper technique until I came here and saw that it's Roadie's and many others preferred method for conjoining wires. Did a little research and got familiar with the process and now it's easier than crimp connectors to me because with a crimp connector you've gotta guess on whether the wire is in the right place inside or if you crimped it good enough etc.Capote said:
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
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Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
- 3,446
ok so moving over here from another thread. Just added my 6-hi mod today and had a question on turning off my fogs but after thinking about it I like the way it's hooked up. I like having fogs on with my low beams. Like dmann said if I want them off I can just turn off my lows.
I did everything in the bcm. Just have to make sure I have enough room on the low beam wire to do the cap mod. Prolly gonna wait to get my hids before I do that. No need right now.
I did everything in the bcm. Just have to make sure I have enough room on the low beam wire to do the cap mod. Prolly gonna wait to get my hids before I do that. No need right now.
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Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
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No. I went from fog light wire to low beam wire. If I went from fog to high then I guess I would be able to. I'm okay with it. They stay on all the time now. If I end up getting hids in the fogs down the road I will just flip the switch to the left during the day when I don't necessarily need lights. That would only be once in a while to prolong life of the hids. Right now I have incandescents so if they go out they are cheap to replace.
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It should just give you the option to keep them on. depending on how you did this you should still be able to turn them on/off with the switch, just doesn't kill the power to the switch when high beams are on.......Im Blazed said:
Midnyteryder196
Member
Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
- 3,446
Not really sure. I'm a few credits shy of my electrical degree. Lol. Mounce said if I went from fogs to highs I would be able to turn fogs on/off with the button. Just wouldn't be able to turn them off when my high beams are on.
I saw a few diff posts about it then dmann chimed in and said he hooked up from fogs to lows and he cannot turn his fogs off with button either. Only can turn them off if he turns switch to left which will turn lows off also. That is same for me.
I saw a few diff posts about it then dmann chimed in and said he hooked up from fogs to lows and he cannot turn his fogs off with button either. Only can turn them off if he turns switch to left which will turn lows off also. That is same for me.
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You fogs should be powered by the low beam circuit, so if you do quad beams where your low beams stay on with high beams the fogs will already get power anyway. you should not have to do anything to the fog light circuit for 6 high just link the lows and highs together.....
Midnyteryder196
Member
Hmmmm.. Interesting.. Makes sense too, also this way you should be able to turn fogs off when on high beams..BlazingTrails said:
Mounce
Member
Blazed, no problem with how you have them now if you like it like that, I want control over my fog lights so I did it differently. If you decide you don't like the fogs being on all the time, just switch silver side of the diode going to the fogs from the pink/white wire to the black/white wire.
Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
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When I did the quad mod first, I turn on my fogs with the button, then switched on my high beams to see if fogs stayed on and the fogs went off. I wanted to get all 6 on when my highs get turned on so I added the 2nd diode to keep fogs on when I switched to high beams.BlazingTrails said:
That's probably what I'll do if I don't like it. I just used some quick splices so it will be easier (than to take the tan and gray plugs out of the bcm and then remove diodes from slot with wires which is what I saw on the first thread I looked at. They just added the diodes in with each wire). I didn't want to have open wires (diodes) exposed so I hooked diodes up to a separate wire and connected that way. We'll see though. Only thing is sometimes I like to turn my lows off and then turn fogs on to run during the day. Now that I think about it, I might switch it when the hids get added just to take some stress off the hids, but at least still have some sort of DRL going with the fogs being on. Decisions...Decisions.Mounce said:
You're telling me. I had to look like 10 times when I was connecting the diodes in just to make sure I had the silver end of diode going the right way.Midnyteryder196 said:
Then I had gone back and forth with which wire to connect it to. Everything works fine right now so I am gonna leave it for now. I thought about going in the fuse box but this is all so new to me I was nervous messing with the fuse box under the hood and pulling out relays and sticking wires in and all that. Just worried I would f**k something up some how.
It only took me like a month of reading every single thread I could about this to get a grasp on something so easy. Never been a car guy until I joined the OS. Then I kept seeing people put "go to g m t n a t i o n . c o m (no spaces)"
. At first I was like WTF does that mean...then the light bulb hit 
and I joined over here where the good info is. So thanks to everyone here my automobile knowledge has slightly increased from infant to toddler. 
Mounce
Member
Ya'know, Gerbil said he couldn't get his fogs to work via the bcm coming off of the high beam wire... If it won't work for you when you do it, a few of us (myself included) can tell you how to do it in the under hood fuse box, no splicing into wires like the bcm. If you need help let us know.
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Just my opinion but I find it better to modify the control circuit instead of the load circuit.
Mounce
Member
Aren't the trigger pins of the relay still the control circuit? I understand where you're coming from though, we all have our preferences.
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Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
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BT - how would I modify the control circuit and where is the control circuit? Sorry if it's an ignorant question. I did see a write up for going under the steering wheel column to do this mod. Is that any different?
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basically anything before the fuse panel is control circuit and anything after the fuse panel is load circuit. most of your lighting control is either under the dash or under the rear seat. I would also recommend not using quick taps or T-taps because they always fail in time. soldering or strip+twisting with tape and a small zip tie are the only ways I would recommend making taps.
Sib
Member
- Sep 6, 2014
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Good stuff. Thanks for dropping some knowledge. I guess it is a good thing I used quick connects under the rear seat cuz it'll be easy to remove.
I thought about soldering the wires under the rear seat but in the case I needed/wanted to remove I could easily. I thought about stripping and twisting wires also but didn't have a lot of room to work with and was just pumped to get it done. Plus I have no subs to rattle anything loose so figured I'd be okay. I know that an excuse and excuses are like assholes...everyone has one and they stink. I get what you're sayin tho.
I'll do some more research on the "under the dash" mod to get comfortable. I looks pretty simple but I need to be certain I have all my t's dotted and i's crossed.
I thought about soldering the wires under the rear seat but in the case I needed/wanted to remove I could easily. I thought about stripping and twisting wires also but didn't have a lot of room to work with and was just pumped to get it done. Plus I have no subs to rattle anything loose so figured I'd be okay. I know that an excuse and excuses are like assholes...everyone has one and they stink. I get what you're sayin tho.
I'll do some more research on the "under the dash" mod to get comfortable. I looks pretty simple but I need to be certain I have all my t's dotted and i's crossed.
The point of this mod is to have as much light on the road as possible at night. Maybe its just me, but I do not understand why you would not want your fog lights on with the low beams at night.Mounce said:
I can understand during the day, but I never turn my headlights on until it is dark out. Always turn them off with the switch.
He could not get it to work because he was trying to follow Fletch09's write up on the OS. Gerbil used the bare diodes and jammed them into the wire connector of the harness then tried to wrap the bare diodes around each other.Mounce said:Ya'know, Gerbil said he couldn't get his fogs to work via the bcm coming off of the high beam wire... If it won't work for you when you do it, a few of us (myself included) can tell you how to do it in the under hood fuse box, no splicing into wires like the bcm. If you need help let us know.
I tried this method initially before adding wire to the diodes just to see how it works. The 4hi worked, but 6hi did not work until I added the wire to each end of the diodes.
Whats the deal with the quick splices? Why do you not like them aside from being a master electrician?BlazingTrails said:basically anything before the fuse panel is control circuit and anything after the fuse panel is load circuit. most of your lighting control is either under the dash or under the rear seat. I would also recommend not using quick taps or T-taps because they always fail in time. soldering or strip+twisting with tape and a small zip tie are the only ways I would recommend making taps.