Ryobi Riding Mower Mods Chat Thread

[mrrsm]

For any of those in the "Curious Crowd" still riding the fence because of certain YT Videos mentioning 'sudden, inexplicable stoppages' while Mowing Along on the Ryobi Model# RM480E "RELM" (Riding Electric Lawn Mower)...THIS Video coming from a very intrepid "Aussie" will cover some of his interesting observations and describe some simple solutions if you find yourself facing any of these temporary impediments towards getting your RELM to finish the job of giving you "A Well Manicured, Properly Cut Lawn":

It follows on that in some instances, it will either be necessary to completely remove the Lower Double Blade Cutting Deck to easily perform the R&R of the Twin 20" Blades. If not... then elevating the RELM can become necessary... and... can be a bit tricky if not done with an eye towards caution and care... and risk injuring the Owner in the process. @Blckshdw has already posted his own cleverly conceived AUTO RAMP and Floor Jack solution as a safe lifting arrangement inside of his Garage.

I'm taking his idea a step further by investing in a "MOJACK" which is this Collapsible, Hand Crank-able Heavy Mower Lift that slides under the Two Front Wheels as a Tractor-Mower Jacking Stand that can help whenever changing either the Twin Blades... or the 80W-90 GBO (Gear Box Oil) in that Hard To Access under-belly at the Rear of The RELM.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081B7W6Y5/?tag=gmtnation-20

There IS a Less Expensive Version...Here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKCLGVW/?tag=gmtnation-20

When I ordered this RELM Jack Stand off of Amazon, I added in a Hand-Held Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener that can be dragged along the tired Blade Edges and quickly renew their sharpness... without having to resort to either Grinding or Filing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VTO5N2G/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[mrrsm]

With the occasion of having run over some of those Oddball (Cast Iron HARD) Cypress Tree Root Ball Knots...I managed to Bend a Blade All To Bupkus!...and thus...it was time to Un-Box the NEW MOJACK RELM Lift and try out that Machine in the back yard atop some HUGE Cardboard sections:



Unfortunately... while setting up the Unit and then trying to lower the Lift Body down onto the Deck...I managed to reach a point where it just would NOT go further down. So I puzzled over it momentarily with that Stupid "WTF?!" look & feel of total exasperation.... and then just settled down to inspecting things a bit closer.

I came to realize that of the TWO M8 X 1.00 Extended Tip Allen Set Screws...Only ONE was completely threaded into the upper "Windlass" Chrome Head with Crank Handle that sits over the Case Hardened Steel ACME Threaded Rod Assembly. So the next progression involved getting out my Red Bondhus Metric Allen "T" Handle Tool Kit and trying to just run that Small Screw on home.

Nope. Dammit! And after a much closer inspection...I could see that not only had the OEM Factory Worker managed to mis-align the Two Opposing Allen Threaded Holes... but had also Cross-Threaded the Set Screw in so hard that I broke that Allen Key and then had to order a replacement kit (several, actually since they were fairly inexpensive on Amazon) and this problem also required getting a High Quality NEIKO Tap and Die Tool Set to handle re-threading those M8 X 1.00 Holes found in THESE Locations:





Several days passed before the Tool Kits finally arrived and today I was able to make Quick Work of the Job by using the NEIKO M8 X 1.00 Tap and Small "T" Handle Holder and then run both of the those Extended Tip Allen Set Screws on *home* into their Hollow Insert Positions after applying a liberal coating of Blue Lok-Tite #242 onto their Threads. And so, Now... The "ACME Screw Lift" Machine functions PERFECTLY . :>)

NOTE:

An Interesting Safety Feature is the Auto-Locking Yellow Handle STOP Latch that MUST be manually Held open and OFF of the ACME Screw Thread whenever Lowering the Device and carrying the weight of the Tractor or *RELM* ...as the Locking Pins WILL enter the Holes periodically arrayed along the Outer Edge of the Vertical Support Member to accommodate varied heights of support needing this additional Safety LOCK Mechanism.

 

[mrrsm]

Comparing what happened during "The Last Blade Change" prior to this latest change by Having the Requisite "Specialty Tool and Support Equipment" (Literally!) THIS time... is like comparing a Suffocating Nightmare... to a Perfect Dream!

All during that LAST Episode... It always had to start with unscrewing the Two Electrical Harness Connectors from the Blade Motors hidden below the seat area and then removing the entire Dual Blade Motor Table via difficult process of trying to access the Four Cotter Pinned-In Bolts and then not lose them all. That was followed by having to Wrangle the Blade Tray out from underneath the RELM and then Flipping it over onto its back on top of a protective piece of Cardboard ... like a Heavy, Beached Green Sea Turtle ...

And then... Having to make certain to Prop the Blade(s) into one Hard-2-Find-a-Fixed-Position with a Chunk -A- Wood ---Safely Enough-- NOT to have the Blades Spin back around and Lop off a Man's Hand at the Wrist while applying over 75 Nm of Force and while trying to Break those 15mm Blade Fasteners Loose.

Well... THAT took all of around Two Hours to accomplish those actions, while I was hampered with additional difficulties while using Hand Tools since I am dealing with having "The Vikings Disease' that gives you damaged Hand Tendons.

Nope... You Can't Cut Grass Yet) ...until you've flipped that Damned Blade Motor Tray right side up and then slid it back up under the Mower... lifted it up high enough to secure it and re-installed those Four Pin Hangars & Cotter Keys underneath the RELM ...AND FINALLY... Re-connected the Two Electric Motor Barrell Connectors. Well... Jesus Palomino!...What a PITA!

But... Not THIS Time, Guys...

(1) One Minute to Park, Load & Secure & Raise the RELM Front Wheels on the MOJACK Lift.

(2) Two Minutes to "Lock" & Unbolt the Bent Blade & Securely Re-Tighten on the New Blade.

(3) Done!

Pics taken with the Second New Blade of the Two Blade Set...and that Miracle Holder:

 

[mrrsm]

Now THIS is a Very Interesting "Make an Offer" listing at $1,699.00 over on eBay that should interest anyone serious about getting into having a Battery Powered Lawn Mower that ordinarily Retails for $5,500.00... especially for a Local Pick Up if you are a resident living nearby to this Seller:

Ryobi Tractor RM480e | eBay

This electric lawn mower is a powerful tool for keeping your yard looking great. It's designed to work with Ryobi batteries, and is compatible with the RM480e model. Whether you need to trim your lawn or tackle tougher jobs, this mower is up to the task.

www.ebay.com

Since this Listing is an "OBO" ...it seems worth contacting the Seller...and if it STILL RUNS... Make Him An Offer He CAN'T Refuse!

 

[mrrsm]

Not everyone with a shed like mine: An Arrow 10' X 14' Painted Steel Unit with Wide Double Doors is also going to have it constructed atop Eight - Buried - 10" Wide X 24" Deep Poured Concrete Cylinders along with a very sturdy, 3/4" Steel Bolt Anchored Wood Deck Platform built up underneath that Metal Building.

But... if You live in Sub-Tropical Climes all year round and You want to keep whatever You put inside of that Shed as "Bone Dry as the Gobi Desert..." then You'll consider the Time and Effort designing this layout as a Perfect Plan ...and "The Moolah" that You'll spend in order to make it this way ... will be VERY worthwhile:



However, if you are doing this in favor of Protecting your Long Term *RELM* Investment, just know that since "ALL Solutions... Breed NEW Problems..." Beware of what damned near happened to ME the other day:

I had my Tri-Fold 48" X 60" Aluminum Ramp at the ready and I --- had just casually laid it over the narrow edge leading into the Shed --- and then, while heading up that Steep Angle, I *Gunned* the ACC Pedal to launch the now MUCH Lighter Weight Ryobi RM480E RELM and --- I Just BARELY cleared the edge of the entrance way with the Rear Wheels Churning & Gripping the Ramp "Teeth"--- when suddenly... The entire Aluminum Ramp sections lurched backwards and fell right out onto the ground!



I thought... *Whew.... Boy... You DON'T Get THAT Lucky Every Day...WTF Dude...!!? So...YOU had Better DO Something about THIS!"

Now for the life of me, as fastidious about SAFETY as I usually am... I don't know why I did NOT investigate the design of the leading and trailing edges of the Tri-Ramp a bit more and come up with a SAFER means of Securing their Leading Edges so that incidents like THIS one can be prevented while STILL being able to completely Remove it to clear out Grass and Debris due to its ability to be just Lifted Up from "The Groove" and Folded into a Neat Pile of "Thirds":



Well... it seemed to take forever to finally locate a Locking Aluminum Grooved Plate that can either be mounted upon the Rear of a Trailer, upon a Truck Tail Gate...or in THIS case... upon the outer portion of the Deck Entranceway leading into the Arrow Shed:

Comme ça ...



So I've ordered One Plate and of course... all of the gear needed to properly install it adjacent the Shed Threshold via Amazon...Thusly:

 

[mrrsm]

Since I Try My Best... NEVER To Do ANYTHING "By HALVES"... I took a second look at my Box of 304 S/S T-25 Aluminum Plate Fasteners and opted to search around again for something with a little more "BITE" to them.

These Construction Wood Fasteners are compatible with the 2" X 6" Treated Lumber I used to build my Platform Deck (15' X 11" x 2" X 6" Lumber - 14" On Centers for the Joyce Settings and covered in 3/4" Marine Plywood Decking). Such Fasteners are NEVER CHEAP...

(They Might Tear a Hundred Dollar Bill in HALF for a Full Box)

BUT... if the holes are Pre-Drilled, with a slightly smaller OD and then coating the Screw Thread Lines with a rake across some Bees Wax... then using my Milwaukee M18 Power Tools with the "Makita Impact Grade T-30 TorX Bits", I should be able to Drive home and sink in all 6" of their Length of the 4-6 Sturdy Screws required to ensure that the 60" Long Notched Aluminum Locking Plate will -- NEVER -- Shift or Come Loose with the repeated stresses placed upon the Tri-Fold Ramp ... For as Long as Grass...is GREEN...and Skies are BLUE! :>)

 

[Blckshdw]

while heading up that Steep Angle, I *Gunned* the ACC Pedal to launch the now MUCH Lighter Weight Ryobi RM480E RELM and --- I Just BARELY cleared the edge of the entrance way with the Rear Wheels Churning & Gripping the Ramp "Teeth"--- when suddenly... The entire Aluminum Ramp sections lurched backwards and fell right out onto the ground!

I'm assuming you've got a somewhat smooth ground surface in front of your shed for that to happen, meaning not much grass to bite into. That was always something I feared happening when I first bought mine, so I made it a habit to back my mower into the shed, so the drive wheels would grip and pull the shed floor on entry, instead of pushing off the ramps.

Then again, I've got that soft sandy soil and plenty of weeds for the bottom of the ramps to dig into, so even the old wooden ramps I built didn't budge. The new steel ones I have now dig in a bit deeper, so no worries.

But I fully endorse everyone's mod bug to feed, and be merry.

 

[mrrsm]

Smooth Indeed... "As Smooth as D'Oyley Carte..." as William Shwenk Gilbert of 'Gilbert & Sullivan' was often wont to describe his 'Boss' Business Acumen' at managing the Savoy Hotel and the very famous Savoy Theater:

The Man...Himself (Mr. Richard D'Oyley Carte)


And so too it was in my case, that the ground near to the Arrow Shed was likewise, ---Too Smooth By A Half--- since I previously had to Rip Out about 100 Miles of Wandering Vines in my back yard soil in anticipation of having a Brand New Fence installed around my yard,

This naturally left very little in the way of any solid anchorage for the base of my Aluminum Tri-Fold Ramp to be able grab any solid purchase there upon as the result of the Sandy Soil left behind... A Careless and soon to be obvious Dangerous Over-Sight on my part... But NOT for Much Longer!

**** The G&S Trivia continues with the fact that the Savoy Hotel was the First F*ve St*r Luxury Hotel to have a Bathroom with a Toilet Water Closet and Running Sink Water Plumbing in EVERY SINGLE ROOM... anywhere in the World.

The D'Oyly Carte Family

As for the MOD BUG... It Ravages, Ravenously Onward... :>)

 

[mrrsm]

Well... Way Back In 2021... I decided that in order to deal with the problem of having to rake up leaves falling from my GIANT Pin-Oak Tree, I purchased THIS HUGE 44" Wide "Pull - From - Behind - A - Tractor" Agri-Fab Yard Sweeping Leaf Catcher:





"The Thing" of it is... Ever since it arrived, I have never bothered with even "Un-Boxing" it or trying to use it because of these two Reasons:

(1) The Ryobi RM480E (when set to a HIGHER Blade Tray Level) WILL pick up those Damned Pin-Oak Leaves...and guide them into the Bagger Dual Bag Rear Unit ...with NO Trouble!

(2) The Width on my Single Cedar Wood Back Yard Gate was ONLY 36" Wide.

However, since then (...and apparently happening Only Every Seven Years in Between) My HUGE Oak Tree decided to "Fruit" this last year and consequently, produce an enormous quantity of Acorns that. to this very day, keep dropping from a height of around 75' and peppering our Roof Tops with these Heavy Hard Oval Organic "Rifled Slug" Sized Pellets.

In addition... I have NEVER seen so many Acorns wind up dropping into the Front Yard; so many in fact, that they act like Ball Bearings and will dump anyone not aware of this slippery problem ...right on their A***es! I suspect that having TWO Back-2-Back Hurricanes thrashing things around down here also managed to help to drop more of them down as well.

So for these Two New Reasons, I am going to Un-Box that Sweeper, Assemble it and hook it up to the back of the Ryobi RELM and then Drag it around behind the Lawn Mower with the Blade Tray Elevated as high as possible a few dozen times and see if IT can scoop up all of those Damned Acorns:

(1) My New Tan Vinyl Fence is equipped with TWO Five Foot Wide Gates, which should allow for E-Z Passage around and around both sides of the yard while doing this exercise.

(2) With the advent of having reduced the weight of the Ryobi by 260 Pounds via the Battery Swap from AGM over to the LiFePO4 Batteries, the Ryobi can easily pull that Sweeper around now and not get bogged down in the slightest. :>)

Oh...and Just In Case...it Does -=NOT=- Work... there is always THIS Tool to Handle A Nut Job:



PS... (EDIT: This GIZMO DUZ WERK.... But There was just a METRIC TON of Acorns...and so it turned out to be completely impractical)

The BIGGEST Reason for my taking more direct actions here is that while using my Milwaukee M-18 Weed-Eater... It was picking up those Damned Acorns and while hurling them around...one ricocheted off the Big Oak Tree Trunk ...and smacked me RIGHT in The C*ds!

 

[Blckshdw]

I had been considering getting one of those sweepers. I have a giant mango tree out back, and it always dumps a ton of leaves right behind the house and in front of the shed. They get under all of the shorter trees and bushes, and accumulate along a short run of fencing, so I always have to dig back there with a rake to pull them out. I'll usually bag them, and run them through my lead shredder for free mulch, but I did try going over it with the mower, while the bag attachment was on it.

It did pick up and mulch a lot of it, but it also left a bunch of leaf clippings behind, and since my lawn is in terrible shape, any of the bare patches would be somewhat filled in by shredded leaf clippings, which are impossible to pick up at that point

With my set of yard bags showing their age and starting to deteriorate, I may revisit the idea of getting the sweeper. Just have to make some room in the shed, so it has a protected place to live

 

[mrrsm]

So...THIS is the Kind of Problem ...That Makes Me INSANE!!!

I caught the outer edge of my Double Bagger 38” Wide Plastic Shroud on my West Fence Gate… and wound up Bending THIS “Thing” ...Pretty FUBAR:

Bagger Assembly Lower Frame 120690001



https://www.ereplacementparts.com/bagger-assembly-lower-frame-p-3271503.html

BUT...NONE...of these Places carry that Part either… NOT ONE!!!

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Homelite-Ridgid-Ryobi-Lower-Attachment-Frame-Bagge-p/hm-120690001.htm

https://www.ombwarehouse.com/homelite-lower-attachment-frame-bagger-120690001.html

https://www.partstree.com/models/ac...agging-kit-rev-03-2018-12/general-assembly-0/

https://www.partstree.com/parts/homelite-120686001/

https://www.repairtoolparts.com/ryo...s/ryobi-120690001-bagger-assembly-lower-frame

https://www.repairtoolparts.com/ryobi-parts/ryobi-acrm001-(000997034)-parts-list

So ...it looks like if I cannot “Hammer” this Lower Bracket right back into a reasonable shape and condition, I may have to get the Base Tube and Plate Steel Materials and Weld up a Reasonable Facsimile ….But Jesus Palomino, Ryobi…??? You don’t even “Support -->The Supports” on your $5,550.00 Lawn Mower? COME ON!!! WTF Dudes!

EDIT: I wound up using a Three Pound Sledge Hammer to literally "BTHSRTFOOI" and pound it back into a useful mounting shape that would support the original arrangement.

 

[Blckshdw]

I caught the outer edge of my Double Bagger 38” Wide Plastic Shroud on my West Fence Gate… and wound up Bending THIS “Thing” ...Pretty FUBAR:

I did something similar, caught the corner of the bagger on something, and that curved bracket that holds the top of the frame on the mower got tweaked pretty good. It still holds onto the frame, but one side is stretched out, so the whole assembly can twist a few degrees. I attempted to fix it by placing it in my vice, and hoping to shrink the widest area, but it tried to close the whole radius, not just the part that was bent out of shape, so I left it.

I checked Gardner Inc, who's one of their partner suppliers, they don't have it either, so you may be S.O.L. unless you can fix it yourself.

Gardner Inc. | LOWER ATTACHMENT FRAME BAGGER

LOWER ATTACHMENT FRAME BAGGER

www.gardnerinc.com

 

[mrrsm]

It may be the case that in many circumstances, the use of a Ryobi RM480E "RELM" might be either an -=expensive extravagance=- due to having a minimal amount of Yard... or just plain impractical for folks without enclosed Garages or Roomy Sheds.

Nonetheless, whether just a Patch of Grass or an expansive acreage, it all becomes unruly and all will still require a decent cutting and manicure if one enjoys "The Pride of Place" and the need to avoid the scrutiny of Angry Neighbors and-or diligent County Inspectors. So It follows on that after receiving a TXT from my son asking,

"Say Dad... Can I borrow the Ryobi today...?"

...since I had to get down to the business of finding a better solution, I cautioned him about the underpinning logistics of getting this Mini-Tractor Sized Gear that is the Ryobi "RELM" onto and off of either a Truck Bed or a Tow Trailer and so in lieu of this potential calamity, I offered him yet another more practical solution as an "80 Volt Battery Powered Gift" for this coming 2024 Christmas.

It follows on that by investigating this "In Kind" of Electrically Powered, self-propelled Lawn Mowing Gear... I settled upon getting him THIS Unit:

...and a Canadian's Perspective and Unboxing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VRFN6RY/?tag=gmtnation-20

I also opted to include an additional Dual Battery FAST Charger that can Re-Charge BOTH Batteries in 45 Minutes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C927YHFR/?tag=gmtnation-20

...and One Additional 80 Volt DC Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7WN1YS/?tag=gmtnation-20

Naturally, after he described the modest size of his back yard and reconsidering the other involved difficulties... this alternate idea greatly appealed to him and he thanked "The Old Man" for getting him out of the Dreaded "Get the Gasoline, Change the Oil, Replace the Spark-Plug and TRY to get it to START..." Routine... We settled on this Gear as the Best and Most Practical Solution... well and truly Clean, and Highly Powered by Reliable 80 Volt DC Batteries.

 

[Blckshdw]

With the weather starting to warm up down here, the weeds and dandelions are starting to grow again. Figured it'll be time to run the mower, bag those up and add them to the compost pile, but wanted to try something with the mower before it gets into the swing of summer. I had noticed in particularly tall or extra thick grass, the right side blades would bog down much quicker than the left. Since I recently sharpened the blades, I know that wasn't it.

Decided to pull the cutting deck, and try swapping the blade motors to the other sides. It was in need of cleaning, so scraped out the old wadded clippings and got to work. The arrangement of screws, nuts and bolts were a bit odd. Having some sort of jig to hold the deck in a vertical position would have been a huge help, but leaning it up against my tool box and using my feet to steady it, worked well enough.



After the rainy season starts in a few months, I'll be able to test things out and determine if it's the motor, or something in the wiring. Side note, it's WAY easier working on this thing in the garage, instead of in the shed. More often than not, I find myself wanting one of those little padded roller stools to sit on, as using my creeper isn't as convenient, unless I need to lay down to roll under the EXT.

 

[mrrsm]

While you have the Tray Dis-Assembled...These E-Motor Bearing Replacement Instructions apply and will breathe new life into Ryobi RELM E-Motors impaired with Grinding or having any-In-Out or Axial Shaft Play:

These the the correct Replacement Sealed Bearings from Timken and Pernatex Ultra Gray Silicone Sealer to Guarantee No Water or Dirt Intrusion into the E-Motors after their re-assembly:

Also... Post #'s 362, 365, 366 and 368 of Tool Talk from a while back (2019) are *Spot On* for how to update any Mechanic's Tool Seat as a working Roll-A-Round garage perch and tool tray:

Tool Talk

In other news... Replacing that O-ring on my jack didn't solve my leaky valve issue. I opened the valve slightly when grabbing the handle to move the jack the other day. Went to move it this morning before leaving for work, and again there was a tiny puddle under it. :hissyfit: I know...

gmtnation.com

PS:

I should mention that if you use my Suggested Seat Mods:



... and wind up on any incline whatsoever... You'll have a tendency to fight gravity the whole time you are sitting while working on anything because the Roller Array is virtually Friction Free and NOT Lockable.. The solution necessary was to lay down a Large Section of Fresh Cardboard in the immediate work area(s). Problem Solved.

 

[Blckshdw]

Thankfully there's no odd noises or play involved, but after taking another look at things while it's all taken apart, I think I have a hypothesis to my issue. Do you use the chute on yours? I took mine off and put it up on the shelf and keep the mulching cap on, as the chute makes it too wide to fit in/out of my shed door.

Getting a better look at the shape of the cutting deck, and where the passages are to direct the clippings to where the chute/bagger tube would be, had a moment. Right behind where the chute goes, is a choke point. Between the caked on clippings, choke point, and new clippings without an exit point, that's probably what's bogging down that side of the action when I hit tall or thick grass, which tends to happen when I'm close to the lake. May try to rig up something with some twine that would allow me to raise the chute as needed to fit the mower through the shed door.

I do remember the roller seat mods, not sure I would need that many wheels, although I do have a number of spares that I bought for my Craftsman creeper, so I could do it if I needed to.

 

[mrrsm]

No... I have no Plastic Mulching Plug or Plastic Chute Guide attached...and Yes ...I think You're RIGHT... Just an FYI... The Hobart Company (another source for RYOBI Critical Parts) produces an 80 Volt Version of our RELM Gear and right at the neck of that Opening...they've installed ANOTHER small Electric Motor and Turbine mounted in-line that pressurizes the Vacuum Up Tube leading to the Hopper Bins in back and works to the extent that ...No Clipping ever get caught in that "Bottle-Neck". :>)

 

[Blckshdw]

One of the chute bolts wouldn't grab in its square hole, to let me remove the nut, so I had to get creative. Tried cutting a slit in the head, to get a screw driver into, but it wasn't deep enough to get the right grip, and kept popping out when I ran the impact on the other side, so I ended up having to cut the head off. Fortunately, I had some 13mm bolts and nuts in the tool chest that fit just as well.

Got a little creative with the chute. Drilled a couple of small holes (only needed 1 really) on the end, and grabbed an end-of-life bungee cord. Hooked one hole, and the other end to the seat frame so it was easy to reach and out of the way. That allows me to lift the chute guide as needed so it doesn't get caught on anything and broken off. I thought to wrap the cord around the console, and hook the other end in the 2nd hole, but it turns out the slim gap between the console and the seat is tight enough to wedge the cord and hold just fine.

Since I had the deck apart, went ahead and sharpened the blades again just for the sake of it. This time I also did the mulching area of the blades, which I skipped before. Although the mower was parked in my garage for a week unplugged, I ran it and got the front and side yards done quickly, moved to the back, and got the area right behind the house done, but got the low charge activity when I moved deeper in the back. This will probably be the last summer for these batteries, will have to make the switch to LiFePo4 before next year. 3 of the 4 current batteries are 7 years old, so I've gotten my money's worth out of them. Will be a bit of a pain if I have to do my property in split shifts, but it is what it is...

 

[mrrsm]

Very Nice Fix... And Speaking of "Fixes"... Considering the Long Term Investment Commitments necessarily made by US Lucky Ryobi RM480E Owners... Durable Bargains like THIS One... Do Not Grow On Trees...

Pardon Our Interruption...

This *Thing* is available over on eBay for $399.00 (OBO) with FREE S&H will seldom come along in THIS condition as a Drop-In, Bolt-Up and Wire In Complete with Rear Axles & Hubs, a Central Drive RELM E-Motor and a working Differential Gear Box... So if you even have the slightest *inkling* of trouble back there... Having THIS *Thing* parked upon the Shelf in the Garage would be an Excellent Acquisition.

I'm going to give you some time to think about this before I act upon the opportunity... You and your RELM will be around and working together a whole LOT longer than I will be... so You having "First Dibs" on such things seems very important to me. :>)

 

[Blckshdw]

That's quite the unexpected find! I would imagine it came off a machine that was likely misused/abused, and wrecked in the process, with that being one of the salvageable pieces left. When I was in the midst of my troubleshooting with Ryobi support (and I use the term support very loosely ) When it came down to my problem being either the computer or the drive motor, I asked them if the motor was available on it's own, or if the transaxle had to be bought too, since there was no single part number in their list. They said you had to get both, so I was quite thankful I only needed the computer.

I've had mine for a pretty long time, I think if I had that type of major hardware failure, I'd probably get a new mower, That 80V zero turn would look pretty nice in my shed, and I think that 42" version didn't exist before, it was only the 54" which wouldn't fit for me, so feel free to scoop that up.

 

[mrrsm]

Will Do!



Based upon my impressions of what some "Second Hand Owners" might do to be prompted to just "Part IT Out" as a Relatively Repairable RM480E... My guess for their Motivation?... The Cost of the Replacement Four AGM 100 AH Batteries would most likely be IT. :>)

When you get to the stage of wanting the LiFePO4 Battery R&R Solution... I think we have covered a lot of ground in this Thread that may prove very useful.

If you take what amounts to be the empirical results of the Battery Transition I documented above... along with the fact that the Performance Results have --==More==-- than exceeded my original expectations... Hopefully, Your own experience will turn out to be something just as pleasant as my own continues to be.

PS... Be careful on the INCLINES by the Lake Shorelines if you switch over to LiFePO4 Batteries (Bringing with them between 4,000 to 15,000 Charge-Discharge Cycles!!!) , since you will be shedding over 200+ Pounds of Four 75 AH AGM Lead Acid Battery "Low Center of Gravity Ballast Weight"... The RELM ...WILL...Tip Over More Easily if you are Not Cautious...!!!

 

[mrrsm]

A Brief Follow Up:

Made an Offer on Tuesday, 02/18/2025... Seller Accepted... Then he Thoughtfully Packed and Shipped this Very Heavy Item for FREE IMMEDIATELY and it arrived on Thursday, 02/20/2025 in PERFECT Condition. Found a Spot in "The RELM Shed" for storage and is it now available for any future "Rainy Day RELM" Mechanical Issues with any and all parts involving the FULL Drive Assembly!



eBay --> FTW!

PS... THIS Seller has a LOT of other RM480E Parts and Pieces available for purchase at his eBay Store...

Security Measure

www.ebay.com

 

[Blckshdw]

Was hoping this would be a single day project, but when has that ever turned out to be the case This morning, fitted the new battery in the tray after removing the taped dividers, and got the adjusters moved so they were nice and snug. Crimped some ring terminals to the inputs on the voltage step down module, got it and the main cables connected.



Ran a quick test to confirm the correct voltages in the expected places, before using the included reusable connectors to attach the tank sprayer power line/switch to the module.



There's a bluetooth app for connecting to the BMS, which was the reason I went with this bundle, and avoid the additional wiring of the monitor module, or having to modify the mower further for the more common gauge that many have used.

Niether the Amazon product page, nor any of the documentation that came with the battery actually told you the name of the app, gave a link, or QR code, so it took a bit of web searching to find which was the right app, because of course the name of the app was nothing like the company's name, and doesn't share the same orange color scheme either. Minor annoyance and inconvenience, but once the app was installed, it connected to the battery right away, and I was able to display all the info.




Moved onto the charger mod, and this is where I got hung up. The new connector comes with pins, after confirming which were +/-, I snipped the ring terminals off the new charger, and crimped the Delta Q pins on. Inserted them into the handle, and gave a test fit, and voltage check. No power... Turns out the connector doesn't seat completely into the charge port, because Ryobi is difficult and has a slightly different configuration.

I forgot about this, as I had originally planned to repurpose the old charger handle, but couldn't locate replacement pins. Disassembled the Ryobi handle, transplanted the new wires into it, and gave it a test while still in halves. Plugged in fine, was able to read voltage confirming a good connection. Put the handle back together, but it would not close completely, leaving a tiny lip on the underside. Turned out that was enough to prevent the handle from seating in the charge port

The problem is, I crimped the terminals incorrectly for this setup. They have the double crimps, one for the wiring, and a 2nd for the insulation, so that's how I did them. Looking at the Ryobi wires, the smaller crimps weren't touched, and the bare wires were crimped where you'd normally do the insulated area. This allowed the pins to be inserted further in the handle, as well as clear the 2 screw sockets to fit the halves together.





So I've got a couple of options, Dremel out the plastic lip in the handle that's preventing deeper insertion of the pins, so they clear and let the handle assemble flush, or buy a pack of pins, crimp them to match the originals so everything plays nice. That would also allow me to replace the used pins from the aftermarket handle and return it for a refund.

Would prefer option 2, so I'm back to my original problem of identifying a part number to track them down. Have been able to determine the manufacturer is Deutsch, but so far browsing Mouser/DigiKey hasn't been as fruitful as I'd hoped. Will keep poking around, hopefully I can find a barrel connector with the same dimensions, then that would work.

 

[mrrsm]

Excellent Write Up...!!!

Some Observations and Suggestions:

(1) Before making the first pass to either cut grass or use the sprayer, ALL 16 Battery Segments need to be Fully Charged...even if the Volt-Meter indicates a Nominal Combined Voltage.

(2) Assuming this Battery Pack is of the LiFePO4 Technology... the solution is to install additional Male-Female connectors for EACH Battery and then use a separate 12 Volt DC LiFePO4 Charger Pack on each of the 16 Battery Segments until they are all within 2-4% of each other.

(3) The APP seems clever in allowing these Battery Diagnostics to know which of the 16 Batteries need immediate attention.

(4) While being unfamiliar with this particular arrangement, I faced a similar situation and wound up investing in two separate Chargers that could handle the 36-48 Charging demands... and another that was meant exclusively for the 12 Vols DC "Balance Charging" that needs demand it be done every few months after disconnecting them all from each other ...and "Topping" them off individually.

(5) This is the only *Finicky* aspect of the LiFePO4 Batteries ...but by literally "Starting" Off on the Right Foot... with as perfectly balanced a Full Charge on the Combined Battery Set as possible...You can get anywhere between 4,000 to 15,000 Charges and Discharges which makes the AGM Battery Tech ...pale by comparison with such an enormous endurance. Done well... the LiFePO4 Design and Charge Balancing might work for between 10-25 Years on a single set of Batteries!

(6) Designating a Single 12 Volt DC Battery in the absence of some clever method of pulling off the Voltage in such a manner as to avoid stressing the remaining Batteries in the set is the sticking point. Hopefully the Blue-Tooth App and the Wiring Harness arrangements can overcome this difficulty.

If anyone can work through your present situation and sort things out backed up with having a seriously strong Skill Set... it is YOU, Man!

 

[Blckshdw]

I had my fill with battery balancing the 1st time around. I actually bought a 48V battery balancer to attach to the SLA batteries, but was too late, they were too far gone for it to help. One of my main reasons for getting a single 48V battery, was because the built in battery management system would even out the interior cells on its own. As much time as I've spent with this machine apart, I'd like to reduce my involvement now

The battery was at 50% charge when installed, I currently have the charge handle only half assembled, to allow charging in the garage. Took about 3 hours to get up to 100% before it went into float mode. Those 16 cells are wired in series, so the 3.**V added up, gets you to your 48-52 range.

I haven't had any luck finding the replacement pins, same situation I had with a previous mod where I needed to replace some OEM pins that were non standard. It's pretty frustrating. So I'll likely just dremel out the slots in the charge handle to allow me to push the pins in a little deeper for clearance, then I can secure the 2 halves together.

 

[mrrsm]

So... A few days ago, I encountered a very unusual and unexpected problem with my Ryobi RM480E "RELM" after I had left it "On Charge" with the Certified LiFePO4 Battery Charger for a few weeks, knowing that once charged up, the Charger is a SMART Version that "Knows WHEN to Say WHEN" with pouring in "The Juice".

What happened was.... I turned the Charger OFF, noting that it read "FULL" on the LCD Screen and then lowered the Seat and (I THOUGHT) I had properly "Turned The Key TO THE LEFT as per its adapted use of two other Plug-Ins ....However, I think the mistake I made immediately afterwards was NOT waiting for the "Greg Handley" Protection Device to Kick In via WAITING UNTIL YOU HEAR THE SINGLE CLICK... and instead, I applied pressure to the ACC Pedal prematurely:



The result was that the Service Panel Lights all lit up and just as I was backing down the Aluminum Tri-Ramps... I cleared onto level ground... And... Everything Stopped. No Lights... No Camera... No Action, whether turning the Key to the Left or the Right. Nothing.

Unfortunately, my grass had reached the point in the story where even my most Tolerant Neighbors might have been tempted to "Call The County" and report my place as an "Attractive Hazard-Nuisance".

Since I was not in the mood to FAWI right then and there and knew I would have to come back in and Read THIS Thread to Bone Up on the Dope needed for the fix, I decided to do for myself the same thing I did for my Son and DIL a while back... (SEE Post #53) and get THIS Set Up as a Back Up Battery Powered, Self-Driving (Self-Pushing?) Mower:



..and since they promised "Next Day Delivery" I opted to buy a Second Battery and another Dual Battery Charger as well:



Oh.... and of course...A Back-Up Forged Steel 21" LM Blade, too.



Next...even if it only turns out to be a Blown 2 AMP Fuse that leaped in like Superman to protect the other more expensive Electrical Control Components... Since I NEVER Do ANYTHING By Halves (1/2s) ...I searched over on eBay and found a Replacement Key Console Panel... and a COMPLETE Electrical Harness (and Diagram) so that -= jik =- so that if any portion of that system was Damaged by this exploit... I would have Bolt On Parts and Pieces that would otherwise be extremely hard to lay my hands on when needed:









Next... I watched this linked "Bob The Engineer" Video describing how to overcome the problem of "IN-RUSH" that probably burned out a fuse hidden in the area of where I installed my "Greg Handley" Device as I was backing down the Ramps, but I have not as yet pulled the panel to see if the Damned 2 AMP Fuse has actually burned out (See inside of the Blue Circles):

I also noted that the eBay Vendor was selling a Pair of Front Wheels and tires for around $110.00 (so I made an OBO of $85.00 and won the sale):

Amazon Fulfillment came through --== In SPADES ==-- and the Un-Boxing and Set Up with a Nice ROOMY Drop-In Rear Bagger took less than Five Minutes to complete.

The Unit came with a High Speed Charger and a LARGE 80 Volt Battery that has since used only 2 of 3 Bars after a 1 Hour & 15 Minute FULL Charge prior to Mowing and only 45 Minutes to Re-Charge after that. The Smaller DTK 80 Volt "Cousin" showed up the next day along with the OEM Dual Battery Charging Unit.

I like this Rig a LOT because it is VERY Light Weight (Until the Bag gets STUFFED) and is completely intuitive and automatically speeds up the Blade as soon as it hits the slightest resistance in thicker grass. It has a Lever Controlled Variable Speed Drive Setting and the Mower CAN -=easily=- be used without the Drive being engaged when cutting around any Obstacles with E-Z Push & Pull Motions.

In a few days, after the Switch Console arrives, I'll pull the access panel on the Right Side and CHECK OUT THAT FUSE. I'll also follow "Bob The Engineer's" Video Idea about Placing the Charger back in the LiFePO4 Charging Circuit for a few minutes and then be more careful and patient during the follow-on "LEFT Key Turn" stages to see if things wake up. I'll figure things out eventually... I usually DO... :>)

BONUS FOOTAGE: LiFePO4 Battery Swap from "Rob The Engineer"

(@Blckshdw will get a kick out of How Many Times Rob has to assemble, dis-assemble & re-assemble the Battery Tray Hardware in order to get the New Shunt Operated Gauge installed and operating correctly... In "Switched" Mode)

 

[xavierny25]

It may be the case that in many circumstances, the use of a Ryobi RM480E "RELM" might be either an -=expensive extravagance=- due to having a minimal amount of Yard... or just plain impractical for folks without enclosed Garages or Roomy Sheds.

Nonetheless, whether just a Patch of Grass or an expansive acreage, it all becomes unruly and all will still require a decent cutting and manicure if one enjoys "The Pride of Place" and the need to avoid the scrutiny of Angry Neighbors and-or diligent County Inspectors. So It follows on that after receiving a TXT from my son asking,

"Say Dad... Can I borrow the Ryobi today...?"

...since I had to get down to the business of finding a better solution, I cautioned him about the underpinning logistics of getting this Mini-Tractor Sized Gear that is the Ryobi "RELM" onto and off of either a Truck Bed or a Tow Trailer and so in lieu of this potential calamity, I offered him yet another more practical solution as an "80 Volt Battery Powered Gift" for this coming 2024 Christmas.

It follows on that by investigating this "In Kind" of Electrically Powered, self-propelled Lawn Mowing Gear... I settled upon getting him THIS Unit:

...and a Canadian's Perspective and Unboxing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VRFN6RY/?tag=gmtnation-20

View attachment 115324

I also opted to include an additional Dual Battery FAST Charger that can Re-Charge BOTH Batteries in 45 Minutes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C927YHFR/?tag=gmtnation-20

View attachment 115326

...and One Additional 80 Volt DC Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7WN1YS/?tag=gmtnation-20

View attachment 115325

Naturally, after he described the modest size of his back yard and reconsidering the other involved difficulties... this alternate idea greatly appealed to him and he thanked "The Old Man" for getting him out of the Dreaded "Get the Gasoline, Change the Oil, Replace the Spark-Plug and TRY to get it to START..." Routine... We settled on this Gear as the Best and Most Practical Solution... well and truly Clean, and Highly Powered by Reliable 80 Volt DC Batteries.

Since I was not in the mood to FAWI right then and there and knew I would have to come back in and Read THIS Thread to Bone Up on the Dope needed for the fix, I decided to do for myself the same thing I did for my Son and DIL a while back... and get THIS Set Up as a Back Up Battery Powered, Self-Driving (Self-Pushing?) Mower:

..and since they promised "Next Day Delivery" I opted to buy a Second Battery and another Dual Battery Charger as well:

Never thought I could relate to this thread but I guess I can now.
I've had this greenworks mower for 3 yrs now and I got to say I've had no issues. I bought it as a 5 piece set from bestbuy of all places for a steal. Mower, trimmer, blower, Battery and charger for under $700 on a bestbuy "deal of the day". The deal still does pop up for it every now and again. My local Costco sells the mower alone for $700 with charger and battery. The blower and trimmer are sold separately, aswell with a battery and charger.

I have a small lawn out front and rubber pavers out back by my pool and deck area. When I do cut the grass I always take care of my neighbors lawns to left and right of me. There both a much older household and always appreciate it. The house to the right of mine only a small patch of grass near the curb so it's just a simple 2 passes and trim. There lawn area was replaced yrs ago with lava rock and some brick work. The neighbor to the left has a nice open lawn and a patch by the curb. Unlike me I have a fenced off lawn and a tree on the patch by the street.

I only have the 1 battery at the moment but it has held up and does the work with battery life to spare even after using the trimmer and blower. I find myself using the blower the most when removing water off the car after a wash, in the fall with the leaves even in the winter with snow. Makes quick work of the stairs out front and windshield on the Voy.

 

[mrrsm]

I took some time to peruse that rather perfect "RM480E ANALOG WIRING DIAGRAM" to run down precisely what the 2 AMP Fuse is protecting and I could use some input from @Blckshdw in determining what that Small Finned Aluminum Box is just to the right of the Fuse Carrier encircled in Sky Blue below:



I have not been able to denude the plastic coverings from the Right Side of the "RELM" yet... but prior to going further... I'd like to understand as much as possible about what that "Mystery Box" is that it would be only the Third of Three Fuses protecting this Amazing Machine...and hopefully figure out precisely what went wrong to kill the power completely:



One last mention, after watching "Rob The Engineer" Dremeling out the OEM Power Gauge Hole in the Switch Panel Plate Fascia, I did some more investigating and found a reasonably priced TEMCo Metal Hole Slug Punch Tool Kit:



This is a design that relies upon a Threaded Bolt with a Thrust Bearing, a Carbon Steel Cutter Insert and a Slightly Over-sized Catch Cup opposing it for squeezing down and miraculously and accurately slicing through the area to be excised out large enough to accommodate the New Electric 48 Voltage and Amperage Gauge Switched Power Meter.

This can only happen by using such a Clam-Shell device that inexorably cuts like a "Cookie Cutter" but with an extremely Sharp and Robust High Carbon Steel half strong enough to punch through 1/8" of Stainless Steel Plate.

Since it is modestly priced, I prefer using THIS method to risking exposure of any part of the Ryobi Electrical Control Panel after being showered with Metal Particles coming as cast-off from the Dremel:

Talk about having "The Proper Tool ...for The Proper Job"... this "Thing" will punch out a 2.42" Hole and be just about the right size opening for our purposes:

 

[Blckshdw]

I could use some input from @Blckshdw in determining what that Small Finned Aluminum Box is just to the right of the Fuse Carrier encircled in Sky Blue below:

That's the 48v to 12v converter, for the headlights, and USB power. That's why the fuse on it is so small. I believe I sent you the parts manual PDF a while back, but here's the page with the part identifiers for the items on the harness.

 

[mrrsm]

Sweet! Thanks for this Image...And the Tech Explanation. I just downloaded the Full Parts & Assembly Manual from this Link you mentioned. The only issue... (once I get to removing the Side Cover Panels) is that *IF* that Fused DC to DC Converter 2 AMP Fuse is NOT Burned Out...then WTF caused "The Lights To Go OUT"...? Can't work on this at the moment... but I'll update what I discover... soon:

https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/17/17e1a746-9587-45a6-9b3b-ae040d3d841c.pdf

Hmmm... I just Spotted One Discrepancy already...

In the Image of the side Panel showing the DC to DC Fuse (Post #68) ...it is definitely a 2 AMP Fuse...BUT... @Blckshdw 's Image lists the Part "P" as being a 5 AMP Fuse:



Hmmm ....I just happen to have a Complete Auto Fuse Repair Kit -=handy=- to deal with this situation:

 

[Blckshdw]

I think your focus may be a little too far downstream. That voltage converter doesn't supply too many items, if the whole mower shut down (like power got disconnected), then I'd be looking maybe that main relay.

You referenced some protection device. What does it do, and where is it installed?

 

[mrrsm]

The Protection Device is the "Greg Handley" In-Rush Surge Protection that, if not mediated within the LiFePO4 Battery Control BMS System itself as a "Soft Start" Function... can seriously damage the system due to the imbalance between the Charged Up Batteries...and the Depleted Capacitors in the Controller(s).

Greg's Device takes about 10 Seconds to engage by taking that -=Enormous Current Surge=- and feeding it into a Dual Set of Relays after it passes through a Strong Resistor.

See Post #20 & #26 for the Technical Introduction and Videos and Purchase ...and the Still Shot Images of How the Device is Best Installed. I have already installed one of these $50.00 "Greg Handley" In-Rush Protection Devices on my "RELM".

The "ERROR" I referred to above was that in all probability, I became impatient (or lazy) and failed to wait long enough (3-10 Seconds) for the Final Relay to go *CLICK* before Mashing Down on the ACC Pedal and thus, I may have shorted out the 125 AMP Fuse nested in series on the Battery Cable Harness as the result. But again, all of this still remains to be investigated.

PS..

The TEMCo Tool Kit arrived and Boy Oh Boy... is THIS Thing amazing... It feels like it weighs as much as a Hand-Hammered Spanish Galleon Cannon Ball ...or perhaps something stolen from Torquemada's Torture Chambers:

 

[Blckshdw]

After seeing the video, it seems like you shouldn't be able to operate the mower, until the capacitors have charged through the resistor device, which takes that few seconds. So if you were able to operate the drivetrain, it should have been all good at that point. Unless the device failed and the contactor relay clicked immediately when the key was turned?

I know a couple of times after my swap, I couldn't drive the mower for several seconds after key-on. And the OEM battery display, while it always reads 100%, would happen to be flashing during those inoperable times. When it changes to steady, everything operates as normal. So I assume the built in BMS is performing those same duties and regulating the in-rush current.

 

[mrrsm]

As soon as I can get clear of sorting out an Engine Swap on my Son's Jeep Grand Cherokee... I will get back on this "RELM" Mystery and update this Thread with whatever I manage to figure out.

Thanks for your input and insights!

 

[mrrsm]

While mired in my Son's & DIL's Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Swap debacle... in the background, I had scoured eBay for the requisite R&R Parts and Pieces that may have to play a part in this solution, Ergo:

(1) A Complete Switch and Gauge Panel
(2) A Complete Electrical Harness
(3) A Working Brush-less Blade Motor



...naturally, all meant for the Ryobi Model# RM480E "RELM"...with the idea in mind that should any or all of these components have suffered damage resulting in the cause of the Electrical Cut Off Event... I would have some "On The Shelf" components to just Grab and Install as needed. You really cannot be frugal when trying to find rare supplies for an *expensive piece of kit* like these "RELMS".

 

[mrrsm]

Okay... It's Raining pretty heavy right now, so I can't venture into the backyard and continue on sorting out the Electrical FUBAR just yet... So I thought I'd conduct a "Tool Experiment" with my TEMCo "Metal Cookie Cutter" Slug Tool on ...of all things... A Metal Cookie Tin. What Could Be MORE Appropriate?

Suffice it to say that:

(1) The Tool works sublimely with the Roller Bearing interface (Like A Sharp Saber Through Hot Butter!) with the smallest amount of effort using an 8" Crescent Wrench to Rotate the Through Bolt.

(2) The position the Cutting Head faces IS Directional, such that the Cutting Side should be used on TOP of the Switch Panel in order to leave the slightly folded finished edges facing inwards.

(3) THIS is Definitely a Very Accurate (2 3/8") and Preferred Method to ANY other Hole Cutting Technique... Period!




PS... I used my Drill Press to cut-punch out a Pilot Hole for this Test... NOT necessary when modifying the Ryobi RM480E "RELM" Switch and Gauge Plate.

 

[Blckshdw]

Ran the mower today, as the weeds had gotten pretty tall with all the rain we've been getting lately. Also noted, that I've been mowing weekly in June, and only a couple of times in May. The kicker is, I hadn't plugged the mower in to charge since April when I got the charger replaced, to make sure it worked correctly.

Opened the app to check the BMS and found the battery still had 30% charge left, after about half a dozen runs on my 1/3 acre property. Even when the SLA batteries were new, I could get 2, maybe 3 runs before needing to charge them back up.




Remembering the discussion about inrush current, and not engaging any functions until the batteries stabilized, I decided to do some tests today, as well as last week when I ran it. If I tried to put the mower in gear, or engage the cutting deck within the first few seconds of turning the key on, nothing would happen, and the OEM gauge would flash (I never bothered to disconnect it)

But if I wait between 5 and 10 seconds, and then activate one of the functions, it would cooperate 100% of the time. So the BMS is definitely self regulating, which is pretty reassuring.

I was looking at those zero turn models, and like that they came up with a 42" cutting deck version, along with the 53" that they originally came out with. If/when this mower makes its last run, that's what I'm gonna go with. I did see they also came out with a tractor version with a 46" cutting deck. Those have traditional hitches on back AND front, which would be great for moving trailers and stuff around without needing to get your truck, but I don't need all that. At least, no time soon.