NEED HELP P0300 p1514, engine power reduced, white smoke

[yazan]

I need help please . while driving I feel lose of power .so I slow down and feel bumping and jumping.
After idle for 15 minutes I got the codes.
Used torque pro for misfiring. It shows 2&5.replaced the coils and no more misfiring info in torque bit stillhave the problem .
I reset the codes and drive for while it was fine as long driving in high speed 100km . nothing at all. But when slowing down it start the rought idle and jumping and the white smoke. Also noticed the dash lights is diming and flashing.
So please any advice ?

 

[TollKeeper]

Sounds like you may have a alternator or battery going bad, or even both. The lights should not be dimming.

 

[yazan]

Sounds like you may have a alternator or battery going bad, or even both. The lights should not be dimming.

And the other codes and white smoke is related to alt/batt ?
Today its look like low battery ..the battery gauge is low while engine is off.

 

[TollKeeper]

White smoke could be a couple things. I know I would start with a compression test. I have never heard of the 4.2 blowing a head gasket, but that doesnt mean it cant.

 

[yazan]

Is the p1514 and p0300 related to the same cause? Do bad sparks cause this? Or coils?

 

[Maverick6587]

p1514 is a throttle actuator error: Could be a bad MAP sensor or a bad TB.
p0300 is a random misfire. the computer probably just needs a little longer to figure out which cylinders are misfiring.

If you're not seeing any misfires in torque while you're seeing code p0300. I would pull the fuses for the ecm for 30 minutes to reset the computer. It's fuse 10 and fuse 28, it's best not to unplug the battery unless you need to.

 

[Mooseman]

P1514 is not exactly a throttle actuator issue but a bad correlation between it and the MAP or the MAF (if you have one).

p1514 airflow to TP sensor correlation high

Envoy left me stuck at work last night. brought a scanner today and pulled code p1514 airflow to TP sensor correlation high. it idles like crap for 5 seconds with the rep light and SES light on then shuts it self off. is it a throttle body? I had it out to clean it last month...it was dirty as...

gmtnation.com

IMHO, if there was an issue with the throttle body itself, it would give a correlation error between it and the pedal sensor. It's expecting a certain amount of airflow (or vacuum) according to the throttle angle commanded. So a bad MAP or MAF is possible. Also check for vacuum leaks or loose intake hoses from the air filter to the resonator and throttle body to the intake. Loose intake manifold bolts are also possible.

Is it smoke or steam? Smoke is possibly from an oil leak of some sort. It has a tendency of lingering in the air longer and is thicker than steam. Steam could just be cold engine startup which is normal. If you can, try to smell it (don't stick you nose right in the tailpipe, just standing behind it is enough ) If it has a sweet smell, then it's coolant and could be a major issue. Just a plain steamy smell is likely just condensation burning off. Once fully warmed it should be gone.

 

[yazan]

P1514 is not exactly a throttle actuator issue but a bad correlation between it and the MAP or the MAF (if you have one).

p1514 airflow to TP sensor correlation high

Envoy left me stuck at work last night. brought a scanner today and pulled code p1514 airflow to TP sensor correlation high. it idles like crap for 5 seconds with the rep light and SES light on then shuts it self off. is it a throttle body? I had it out to clean it last month...it was dirty as...

gmtnation.com

IMHO, if there was an issue with the throttle body itself, it would give a correlation error between it and the pedal sensor. It's expecting a certain amount of airflow (or vacuum) according to the throttle angle commanded. So a bad MAP or MAF is possible. Also check for vacuum leaks or loose intake hoses from the air filter to the resonator and throttle body to the intake. Loose intake manifold bolts are also possible.

Is it smoke or steam? Smoke is possibly from an oil leak of some sort. It has a tendency of lingering in the air longer and is thicker than steam. Steam could just be cold engine startup which is normal. If you can, try to smell it (don't stick you nose right in the tailpipe, just standing behind it is enough ) If it has a sweet smell, then it's coolant and could be a major issue. Just a plain steamy smell is likely just condensation burning off. Once fully warmed it should be gone.

Yes its smoke. And heavy with higher rpm.
Btw . iremoved the oil cap for checking . its weird that air inside the engine is some kind of bumping /bububub sound .

 

[Maverick6587]

I don't know if a bad MAP would cause pressure issues like that, maybe someone else does. Can you feel the pressure pulsing against your hand from the oil fill hole?

Did you check the oil on the dipstick for color? Make sure it's not a creamy/milky color.

You might want to see if you hold a piece of paper near your exhaust, if it is only pushed away, or if it is sucked against the exhaust.

Any new codes? Have you done anything to the vehicle lately or noticed any changes before you saw the codes? Can you record the sound for us to hear?

 

[yazan]

This brocken wire is what I found today.. Can this cause this?
The engine oil cap is sucking air strongly.
And The smoke is thick. Its not a steam..
I got today p0340 . I noticed the big actuator near the steering bump is rotating easly by hand !

 

[Maverick6587]

That picture looks like the MAF. That could definitely cause a lean code, as there would be no indication on the initial amount of air flowing into the engine. It shouldn't be bank specific though with a dead MAF, I wouldn't think.

Can you take a picture of the actuator you're talking about?

 

[yazan]

That picture looks like the MAF. That could definitely cause a lean code, as there would be no indication on the initial amount of air flowing into the engine. It shouldn't be bank specific though with a dead MAF, I wouldn't think.

Can you take a picture of the actuator you're talking about?

 

[TequilaWarrior]

This brocken wire is what I found today.. Can this cause this?
The engine oil cap is sucking air strongly.
And The smoke is thick. Its not a steam..
I got today p0340 . I noticed the big actuator near the steering bump is rotating easly by hand !

THis looks like the Intake Air Temperature sensor to me - but I'm unfamiliar with the years equipped with a Mass Air Flow Sensor. I didn't see what year your Trailblazer is.
Obviously, this broken wire needs fixed. I've had success removing pins from plugs like these from the back with precision screwdrivers - I'm sure there are better ways. Hopefully someone can stop in and give good advice on this.

Regardless, it wouldn't hurt to clean this sensor. If it's an IAT sensor, it just pulls straight out - clean it with MAF cleaner as that's the least aggressive cleaner. If it's a MAF sensor - you'll need to remove it from the intake air tube. Again, clean a MAF with MAF cleaner - heavier duty cleaners can damage MAF sensors.

I believe this is the Camshaft Position Actuation Solenoid and it should not spin. Is the plastic part where the plug goes in spinning inside the housing or is the whole housing spinning? It should not spin at all. I thought the housing was keyed so the clamp would hold it in place but it's been a while since I removed mine. I would remove it and clean it. This thread: https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...on-actuator-solenoid-cpas-picture-heavy.2224/ shows exactly how to remove/clean/replace it. If the plastic is spinning within the housing, it's trashed and you definitely need a new one.

What does your smoke ~smell~ like? Is it "fuelly" smelling? That's unburnt gas. Pancake syrup like? That's coolant. I don't know if the CPAS not doing its job would cause a rich enough condition to make white smoke - but I wouldn't be surprised.

 

[Mooseman]

THis looks like the Intake Air Temperature sensor to me

Fixing that is a step in the right direction. If it has a temp sensor, then it doesn't have a MAF as it is integrated to it (and has 3 wires).

P0340 indicates a problem with the camshaft sensor, which is at the very front of the engine just below the oil cap. Check the wires and if necessary, replace the sensor.

The CPAS, the part which you say is spinning, the plastic part should definitely not spin. The whole body can spin inside the head. It's just the way it's made. Unplug it and see if there is any oil in the plug, which would indicate it needs replacement.

A rich condition would produce black smoke. The only thing I can think of that could produce a white smoke from an engine is coolant, which is actually a heavy thick steam. As requested, a smell test of it could help identify it. If it is coolant, that would be very bad news, which means either a leaking head gasket or worse, a cracked head. Has the engine ever overheated? Are you losing coolant? If you could take a video of the smoke, both close and from far back, it might help us identify it. This video shows what it looks like:

 

[yazan]

This video for the engine oil fill cap sucking air .

And iam working on the socket broken wire right now
The spinning cpas is not in the plastic I think in the hole metal thing because the socket is rotating with the metal tube.
Coolant is ok and oil color is dark but not milky or foamy
No overheating at all . I go for round check while using torque app .
Tomorrow I will clean tb while batt is disconnected and clean the iat with contact cleaner .

 

[Maverick6587]

I saw a trailblazer video once, where it was displaying rod knock behavior. Both sounded like it and was pulling paper to the exhaust. The fix was replacing the cpas.

It sounds like your cpas is junk anyway. Replace it and see what happens. I suggest only using ACDelco.

 

[yazan]

Sorry. Model is 2002 ext
I will record video for the smoke.
I think the smoke isn't related to coolant because no overheating and not loosing coolant.
Can be unburned gas? Or burned oil?

 

[Mooseman]

That looks like a lot of suction from that cap. I never had the cap pull before while it's running. And your engine sped up. I don't know all the intricacies of the PCV system on this engine and how the vacuum is metered but I've never seen an engine pull that much in the crankcase. Maybe the valve cover to airbox hose or in the valve cover is plugged? check to see if there is vacuum there.

 

[yazan]

Sorry. i Forget to tell about the brakes became hard… strongly harder to push the pedal in low speeds. !

 

[NJTB]

That may be lack of vacuum to the brake booster.

 

[BrianF]

Just anecdotal but what poor cam phasing can do: work truck is. 2016 f150 with 5 liter. Began running very rough, stalling and the worst smelling exhaust I have ever witnessed. Not using oil or coolant. Just one code for an over retarded cam and just needed a new cpas.

Now for a possible vacuum leak. How were your brakes with the oil cap on? I will check mine today to get a better idea of engine vacuum with the oil cap on or off.

But the biggest issues should be dealt with first and that is the sensor wiring and cpas.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

Sorry. i Forget to tell about the brakes became hard… strongly harder to push the pedal in low speeds. !

That definitely warrants serious investigation. If you've got errant vacuum issues - which pulling vacuum from the oil fill cap is certainly a sign of - then that's what I'd concentrate on: finding vacuum problems. Pull the resonator (which you have to do to get the TB out anyway) and verify that the vacuum line from the resonator to the valve cover is not only installed correctly, but free of blockage. Also check the vacuum line to the brake booster - make sure it's installed correctly and free of blockage. You're pulling a heck of a vacuum and we need to know why. Fix the IAT wiring and clean the IAT (contact cleaner ~should~ be ok, but MAF cleaner is safer. To be honest I've used contact cleaner on it before without issue.). Clean the TB - most people will recommend throttle body specific cleaner, I've used carb/tb/intake cleaner with no issues. Make sure you thoroughly clean every orifice and port on the TB - there is a tiny needle sized hole in the inside of the tb that I believe meters air - make sure that passage is clear as well. If you're hesitant to replaced the CPAS, at least pull and clean it thoroughly - and make absolutely sure it's completely dry before reinstalling it. I usually use carb cleaner on this as well, but have used brake cleaner too (hence the caution about being dry).
I'm very curious to hear about your vacuum lines - check all of them. There's at least one from the valve cover to the resonator box, a smaller one that connects to the resonator box that I believe is for the fuel pressure regulator, at least one to the TB, one for the brake booster, and I'm not sure about the rest. Check every vacuum line and make sure they're clear.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

A thought just occurred to me - does it smoke with the air filter removed? How's the vacuum going into the throttle body with the air filter removed? How's the vacuum at the oil filler hole when the air filter is removed?

 

[yazan]

Sorry for late response. And iam deeply appreciating all the posts up.
So this is what I found today when I started removing tb for cleaning Nd inspecting the vacuum lines.
Coil2 bolt broken while removing . found the spark plug like this. (Image attatched ) I worked on cylnder2 regarding to torque pro android application misfiring readings.
Oil in the tb
Oil in the resonator .
Oil the in the intake manifold ( seen from tb place)
The vacuum hoses / tubes / lines in the tb and the resonator is ok and no damage noticed
Sensor brocken wire fixed
I Replaced the spark plug no2
I will test after installing tb and i will Check the other spark plugs.

 

[Mooseman]

That spark plug is nasty. Just replace all of them so they are all equal.

Yup, clean out all that oil and the TB. Don't forget to disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes while doing it to reset it.
How to clean your throttle body
You should also give the air filter a check and replace if necessary. It looks like it just needs a good tuneup.

Hope you can get that broken bolt out.

 

[yazan]

Do I have to remove the intake manifold out to clean inside it?
Why there is allot of oil every where? Should the oil reach the tb and intake manifold normally?

 

[Mooseman]

Yes and no. Depending on your mileage, if it has a lot of blowby, then you will get more oil in there. It's normal for the throttle to accumulate that gunk however the amount of oil in the resonator should be minimal. My old TB had a bit but it was a high mileage engine so I cleaned it out regularly.

For the intake manifold, it's your choice. You could take it out and give it a good cleaning or you could try using a spray directly into the throttle while someone gives it gas (don't push on the throttle by hand with engine running!). That could clear out most of the liquid oil but most of the gunk will remain.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

Get the oil out of the resonator (black box before throttle body). Removing the actual intake risks more broken bolts - but it's your call. I second @Mooseman 's statement on the air filter and seriously consider just replacing it - they're fairly cheap. My reasoning is this: if the air filter is restricted (don't rely on the indicator for air filter condition) the engine will pull vacuum from wherever it can - including the "no valve PCV" system. If you stated your mileage, I missed it. If this is the first time this throttle body and resonator has been cleaned, I would not be shocked with the oil. Clean out what you can reach. I usually spray out my resonator when I do a TB cleaning with carb/choke cleaner and make sure it's as dry as I can get it. Wipe out what you can get to. Replace every spark plug - those are probably the worst I've seen in any vehicle, oil wise. I'm still concerned you've got some sort of air/vacuum leak in the engine. Check your valve cover bolts. My reasoning is this: if you have loose valve cover bolts and the "no valve PCV" is pulling vacuum via the loose valve cover it could pull more oil than under normal conditions. The PCV is designed to help keep compression numbers up by improving ring seal as well as burn off and blow-by and prevent the engine from blowing oil all over the place. If there is nothing artificially increasing the oil pulled by the PCV, you have a blow-by problem. Let's get those plugs changed and TB cleaned & relearned (the 30 minute battery cable pull that's been mentioned), check the tightness of your valve cover bolts and verify the integrity of your vacuum lines and see how she runs. It might surprise you the improvement you'll get from just plugs & TB. Also, it's probably been mentioned before - but only ever use genuine ACDelco 41-103 spark plugs in these engines, anything else will fail early or just not run right. Do not gap them yourself - they're gapped from the factory.

 

[yazan]

Ok . new spark plugs installed. Its really the worst plugs I replaced . ( I replaced it 6 months ago )
Tb cleaned and iat broken wire fixed and cleaned
Resonator cleaned
Spray little carp cleaner in the Manifold hole and it was really dirty. ( I swaped what i can reach with my hand with towel.)
Cpas and cps sockets are fine and no oil. Cleaned with contact cleaner
Notice what you can see in the attached images is oil in some spark plugs holes, and some coils have some oil that look like water ( I think its water or wet but actually its oil )
Battery was disconnected while doing the tb cleaning and changing plugs.
Dtc set on after seconds of engine start "engine power reduced "and the p1514. And later p0300 set again.
My milage is about 530k km… (329 mile) it's 2002 ext .
The engine oil cap thing is still the same. The rpm rise up and start bubub sound like before .. As you can see in the video in the previous post.
The smoke also is like before.(not sweety . cant figure its oil burning or gas )
No coolant loose.
Some valve cover bolts was not that strongly tightin .so I give it a little tight.
All vacuum lines /hoses ( one from the valve cover to the resonator . and one from resonator to the fule and one is going from the intake manifold to the rear ext ac . and the booster hose… ..all ok and no blockage.
And I just noticed oil leaking in the left side. Image attatched. I cleaned it so I will inspect again for leaking location.

This problem is driving me crazy
Thanks for all of you. Thanks allot.

 

[Maverick6587]

Ok . new spark plugs installed. Its really the worst plugs I replaced . ( I replaced it 6 months ago

what type of spark plugs did you put in when you replaced them?

Is that spark plug number 4 in the picture, that looks like it's flooded with water?

 

[Mooseman]

That is a lot of mileage, the most I've seen or heard about so far for one of these. Before going any further and throwing any money at it, you should do a compression test and/or a leakdown test (preferable). With this kind of wear, it's possible the piston rings are just not sealing well enough anymore, which would explain the pressure in the crankcase/oil cap and the misfires. Normal compression should be around 215psi and the lowest reading should not be lower than 70% of the highest. Had we known about this high mileage, this would have been our first suggestion.

The P1516 could be an issue with the MAP sensor but again, we need to know the overall mechanical health of the engine before proceeding.

 

[yazan]

what type of spark plugs did you put in when you replaced them?

Is that spark plug number 4 in the picture, that looks like it's flooded with water?

Iam using only acdelco 41-103 oem .
No that is oil. No water

 

[yazan]

That is a lot of mileage, the most I've seen or heard about so far for one of these.

I hope its some thing I missed or vacuum problem in the Intake manifold or the exaust . because the bubing sound is higher near the exaust.

When I rise the rpm (pedal accelerating) no dtc and no engine power reduced. No ses. Only with low rpm and idle.
I test running without air filter and without resonator but no different.

 

[Maverick6587]

No that is oil. No water

You definitely have a bad valve cover gasket then. do you see oil pooling up around any other spark plugs. you're probably fouling out that one spark plug if not more with all of that oil in the valve cover. Did you see oil/oil residue in the bottom of the ignition coil (the rubber boot where the spark plug fits)?

 

[Mooseman]

I would still do a compression test. Just yesterday, I opened my oil cap while it was running. No vacuum, no pressure, no noise. But then mine has only 127k km.

For that age and mileage, it's "normal" for a little oil to migrate into the plug wells. It would accumulate over a long time. If you replaced that plug recently, then that much oil is abnormal and your valve cover gasket would need to be replaced. Oil in the plug well would not foul the plug since in itself as the oil doesn't migrate into the cylinder. It could cause a misfire if it is high enough. The fouling and misfire could be caused by a bad coil. Swap #4 to another position and see if the misfire follows the coil. Again, I would do a compression test first before doing anything else.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

That's condensation on the plug boot. I use vaseline on the coil to valve cover gaskets to help keep out moisture. Also use dielectric grease from boot to plug for the same reason. If you're leaking oil into the plug holes, your valve cover is either loose or the gasket is shot.

I thought you said the oil fill cap was sucking vacuum, not pushing air. @Mooseman , if it's pulling vac at the oil cap - would that still be a ring issue?

 

[Mooseman]

I would think it's a PCV vacuum issue. If there was excessive blowby from the rings, I would assume it would create pressure. GM-SI has very little info on the PCV system and all they say is to inspect hoses for any problems with it. The video seems to show vacuum. Maybe a plugged vent hose at the resonator or in the valve cover?

 

[Maverick6587]

Just wanted to make sure we're covering everything so far.

@yazan
*Did you replace the cpas? You said you could spin it and then said it was fine
*Did you replace all of the spark plugs or just 2 & 5
*Did you find any hoses that were causing a vacuum leak, since your brakes are harder to press now
*Did you fix the connector for the intake temp sensor
*Have your or can you do a compression test

I think I got everything, but let me know if I missed something (long thread).

 

[TequilaWarrior]

I very much don't like how the PCV system works on these engines. I also don't "get it".
However, I'm thinking there's a PCV issue as @Mooseman suggested.

I found this image. The topmost circled item is a bit of a mystery to me - but the two in the lower center seem to be part of the PCV.
Are you getting vacuum from the middle one?
What are you getting from the bottom one? I believe the bottom one goes to an airspace in the oil galley - but I'm not expert on this.
I also can't remember where the brake booster vacuum line connects - when you disconnect this vac line from the booster, what do you get at the booster end of the line? Good Vac?

 

[Maverick6587]

The top circled port is for the brake booster hose.There probably is a leak on that line somewhere going to the brake booster. That or the other hose in the middle.

Edit: I would tighten all of those bolts holding the intake manifold as well. Those do come loose if you've never removed it before, 10mm bolts. I think there are 10 bolts holding it on, 11 if you count the one bolt for the pcm bracket.