NEED HELP P0300 p1514, engine power reduced, white smoke

[yazan]

Just wanted to make sure we're covering everything so far.

@yazan
*Did you replace the cpas? You said you could spin it and then said it was fine
No i didn't replace it. Last replacement was 6 months ago. Some say its normal to rotate like this.
*Did you replace all of the spark plugs or just 2 & 5
Yes I replace all and one coil that no2 reagrding to misfiring info in torque app
*Did you find any hoses that were causing a vacuum leak, since your brakes are harder to press now
No
*Did you fix the connector for the intake temp sensor
Yes
*Have your or can you do a compression test
No. I don't have the tools . tomorrow will go to workshop if i can't loan or borrow one.

I think I got everything, but let me know if I missed something (long thread).

 

[Maverick6587]

That cpas is bolted to the engine it should not move at all. Where the cpas connector plugs into the cpas should not move and the body of the cpas should not move at all either. To clarify that when "cpas" is used we are talking about the item in the picture below? And are you saying it moves while it's bolted to the engine or while it has been removed/unbolted?

Any of the auto parts stores should have a compression kit.

AutoZone has a rental for $40: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...ssion&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

Harbor Freights sells them for $26: https://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-8-pc-62638.html

 

[Mooseman]

It's been a while but I distinctly remember that the holding bracket on the CPAS used to be in a groove that went all around the body so it was able to rotate. Looking at all of them at RockAuto, all have been changed to prevent this rotation. If I ever locate that old CPAS, I'll show it. And it worked fine.

Oddly enough, the Delphi shown is not the latest one with retainers on the screens. Most of the others do.

BTW, @yazan is from Saudi Arabia so no AZ or possibly other stores that have tool rentals.

 

[yazan]

I agree with @Mooseman
This video show how rotating is

and its not all the time easy and free to rotate. Some times its harder !!!
The valve cover hole ( that is connected to a black hose and the other side is connected to the resonator) is also sucking air. And when I turn off the engine its start blowing smoke.
Also the brake booster is sucking air to the engine side.
Today installed anew coil in cyl2 and now its a little bit better . but still have aaaaalll the problems. P0300 and p1514… that clouds of white smoke when starting the engine… ..etc

 

[Maverick6587]

Sorry for not noticing where you were located @yazan .

Did you try spraying brake cleaner or soap and water around the engine while it was running to test for vacuum leaks? If not, I would start with that or even try it again. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere.

Then I would start pulling the ignition coils as the vehicle is running to see which one/ones are inactive and do not affect the engine's rpms as it's running. Or, if you have a spark plug tester that has a light that connects between the ignition coil and the spark plug, that would work as well, example attached. You could also just use a multimeter, I'm not 100% sure on that as I'm thinking about the it, worth a shot thought.

 

[Mooseman]

That or monitor the misfire counts in Torque. There may be more than one cylinder misfiring.

The P1514 could be the MAP sensor on top on the intake manifold. Or it's actually working correctly and throwing this code because of the vacuum issues. Makes sense to me. If you can, do a vacuum check with a gauge.

 

[yazan]

Sorry for not noticing where you were located @yazan .

Did you try spraying brake cleaner or soap and water around the engine while it was running to test for vacuum leaks? If not, I would start with that or even try it again. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere.

Then I would start pulling the ignition coils as the vehicle is running to see which one/ones are inactive and do not affect the engine's rpms as it's running. Or, if you have a spark plug tester that has a light that connects between the ignition coil and the spark plug, that would work as well, example attached. You could also just use a multimeter, I'm not 100% sure on that as I'm thinking about the it, worth a shot thought.

Its ok if the Soap and water sucked to the engine?
I noticed The coil was making electric shots to engine body in the coil hole . when little removed from the spark plug up . I don't know if this correct way for testing? .

 

[Maverick6587]

Its ok if the Soap and water sucked to the engine?
I noticed The coil was making electric shots to engine body in the coil hole . when little removed from the spark plug up . I don't know if this correct way for testing? .

You wouldn't be spraying the soap and water into the engine, just around all of the hoses and intake to see where you see either bubble forming or getting sucked into the engine. You would not need to spray very much to see the leak.

That way definitely works for checking for spark coming from the ignition coils! If those are check out good. I would then start swapping out the 4-5 spark plugs that you are not 100% for sure are working, with a known good spark plug, like cylinder 2 and 5, I think you said you replaced.

 

[yazan]

I read somewhere using some kind of spray and spray around the engine and inspecting raising engine sound and rpm . because of the spray is reaching the inside of engine and affecting the firing
but can't remember what kind of spray was.
I will check other coils this way.

 

[Maverick6587]

You could use brake cleaner or propane. Spraying the same way I mentioned for soap and water. With the brake clean and propane you'll just have to wait a few seconds before you spray the next area in the engine.

The spray is going to force the engine rich, because you're putting more "fuel" into the system. So you should hear a change in the rpms for a few seconds. This video below is pretty good at explaining them all along with how to be safe while doing the tests.

 

[yazan]

long time,, been outside my area for some time
i picked up the tb to workshop
they call me and say its a bad pcm ! and maybe bad throttle body
he said the need anew pcm to check , because the pcm is not giving sensors reading and data
i have a 2003 pcm so i give it to the workshop nd waiting for there call
i think its not related the problem , but i will see what will happen

 

[mrrsm]

Lightly on the 'tightening' of those Intake Manifold Bolts here ...if you please... No more than 89" Lbs (that's Inch Pounds NOT FOOT Pounds...) and mind the one fastener that is hidden behind that small Rubber "Elbow" Hose. The two lower Red Circles shown in @TequilaWarrior 's Image show that the upper portion of that "Elbow" plugs right back into the IM... It's presence there allows for the Air Pressure from Piston Blow-By that can build up inside of the Lower Crankcase and allows this stuff to escape through a very tiny port machined into the Aluminum Engine Head.

That small Rubber Elbow Hose-pathway allows for the Blow By Gas to get vacuumed right back into the Air Column leading into the (6) Intake Ports, thereby satisfying the EPA Standards for capturing and minimizing the expulsion of Unburned Fuel and Partially Burned Noxious Fumes out into the Atmosphere and get that stuff "Re-Cycled" right back into the Combustion Chambers. I will admit that seeing a single small hose that gets routed FROM the Body of the IM ...right back TO the IM is bit puzzling to behold.

As for the White Smoke...

If enough Coolant invades into the Crankcase.... it can raise the Oil Level higher than it should be, naturally because the Specific Gravity of Oil is much less than Water. If the stuff can reach the Rotating Assembly down there...it will get picked up by the Crankshaft Counter-Weights and churned into a substance that looks like Brown Pudding. But worse yet is the insidious Chemistry when the Poly-Ethylene-Glycol is ACIDIC and it will eat into the Babbitt Bearings and cause the Crankshaft to Seize.

That stuff has absolutely NO Lubrication Properties and under extreme conditions at higher RPM...can literally ...Get Whipped into a Brown, Bubbly Froth. When that happens... the Froth can NOT be ingested and squeezed by the Gerotor Oil Pump and pressurized to lubricate anything inside of the Engine. The Oil Pump fails due to Cavitation. After these events happen... its Bye-Bye Motor.

Usually... this problem can be discovered by opening up the Radiator and looking for the Brown Pudding under the Oil Cap. Also... if you pull the Dipstick and your Oil Level is about twice as high on the stick as it should be... then you would suspect a seriously Blown Head Gasket. THIS is just how bad the problem can get:

 

[Mooseman]

My gut feeling is that it's not the PCM but if you can find one cheap, it won't hurt anything to try. It is possible that it could be the throttle with the p1514 code but I would be more inclined to be a problem with vacuum.

I think the shop is just attempting to throw parts at it.

 

[yazan]

Lightly on the 'tightening' of those Intake Manifold Bolts here ...if you please... No more than 89" Lbs (that's Inch Pounds NOT FOOT Pounds...) and mind the one fastener that is hidden behind that small Rubber "Elbow" Hose. The two lower Red Circles shown in @TequilaWarrior 's Image show that the upper portion of that "Elbow" plugs right back into the IM... It's presence there allows for the Air Pressure from Piston Blow-By that can build up inside of the Lower Crankcase and allows this stuff to escape through a very tiny port machined into the Aluminum Engine Head.

That small Rubber Elbow Hose-pathway allows for the Blow By Gas to get vacuumed right back into the Air Column leading into the (6) Intake Ports, thereby satisfying the EPA Standards for capturing and minimizing the expulsion of Unburned Fuel and Partially Burned Noxious Fumes out into the Atmosphere and get that stuff "Re-Cycled" right back into the Combustion Chambers. I will admit that seeing a single small hose that gets routed FROM the Body of the IM ...right back TO the IM is bit puzzling to behold.

As for the White Smoke...

If enough Coolant invades into the Crankcase.... it can raise the Oil Level higher than it should be, naturally because the Specific Gravity of Oil is much less than Water. If the stuff can reach the Rotating Assembly down there...it will get picked up by the Crankshaft Counter-Weights and churned into a substance that looks like Brown Pudding. But worse yet is the insidious Chemistry when the Poly-Ethylene-Glycol is ACIDIC and it will eat into the Babbitt Bearings and cause the Crankshaft to Seize.

That stuff has absolutely NO Lubrication Properties and under extreme conditions at higher RPM...can literally ...Get Whipped into a Brown, Bubbly Froth. When that happens... the Froth can NOT be ingested and squeezed by the Gerotor Oil Pump and pressurized to lubricate anything inside of the Engine. The Oil Pump fails due to Cavitation. After these events happen... its Bye-Bye Motor.

Usually... this problem can be discovered by opening up the Radiator and looking for the Brown Pudding under the Oil Cap. Also... if you pull the Dipstick and your Oil Level is about twice as high on the stick as it should be... then you would suspect a seriously Blown Head Gasket. THIS is just how bad the problem can get:

Very good info here. Thanks.
No coolant level drop and the oil is ok. there is no pudding under the oil cap.
I think the white smoke is related to the heavy oil in the resonator. Sucked to the engine.! Maybe

My gut feeling is that it's not the PCM but if you can find one cheap, it won't hurt anything to try. It is possible that it could be the throttle with the p1514 code but I would be more inclined to be a problem with vacuum.

I think the shop is just attempting to throw parts at it.

I agreed .
I have an old "working" pcm that I used before. I give it to him
If the throttle is stuck then the engine is forced to suck air somewhere else. But the throttle sensors won't throw some codes!!

 

[yazan]

Ok. They call me today and say the engine now "run better" but still have major problem. Cyl2 in compression test was dead
Others is low and weak
Thinking now repair? Or replace the engine from salvage / yard. Used engine.

 

[TollKeeper]

Thats why I suggested a Compression test to begin with...

But get a used engine, still lots of options for low mileage ones out there. Just remember there are certain years that are not interchangeable with other years.

 

[yazan]

Thats why I suggested a Compression test to begin with...

But get a used engine, still lots of options for low mileage ones out there. Just remember there are certain years that are not interchangeable with other years.

2002~2005 isn't?
And should I keep the old pcm ? Or replace it with the new engine ?

 

[TollKeeper]

PCM stays with truck, it is VIN programmed for your truck. I dont remember about the engine years.

 

[Mooseman]

The FAQ: Vortec 4.2L I-6 is your friend:
4.2L interchangeability by years

 

[TollKeeper]

@Mooseman thats the thread I was looking for, thanks!

 

[gmcman]

Daggone...I totally missed this thread. I guess it's too late now but if the top port is plugged, then it will surely show high suction at the oil cap.

My guess was the exhaust valves were caked in carbon and not closing which would pull the exhaust back into the tailpipe.

Moving forward, be sure to use high quality synthetic oil and change regularly. I wouldn't personally go past 5K miles but with Blackstone tests you can try to push it farther.

Too many variables in these motors to not perform regular oil changes.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[yazan]

The FAQ: Vortec 4.2L I-6 is your friend:
4.2L interchangeability by years

sorry for asking again , so many info there
then its only swapping with 02-03-04-05 engine only for easier work?

 

[yazan]

Daggone...I totally missed this thread. I guess it's too late now but if the top port is plugged, then it will surely show high suction at the oil cap.

My guess was the exhaust valves were caked in carbon and not closing which would pull the exhaust back into the tailpipe.

Moving forward, be sure to use high quality synthetic oil and change regularly. I wouldn't personally go past 5K miles but with Blackstone tests you can try to push it farther.

Too many variables in these motors to not perform regular oil changes.

Good luck and keep us updated.

i was doing engine oil change with filter regularly .
still have some time, iam looking for a good replacement engine,
you think this exhaust valves cause this problem? and its the reason for the cylinder 2 bad compression test ?
where is this valves located?

 

[TollKeeper]

sorry for asking again , so many info there
then its only swapping with 02-03-04-05 engine only for easier work?

If your truck is one of those years, than that is correct.

 

[gmcman]

That would be one issue and likely a result of what happened. I think the reason for seeing exhaust pulled back into the tailpipe would likely be from the exhaust valves not seating.

As far as why this happened....not sure exactly. What is the service history....ie, oil changes, type of oil...etc?

There is a molded vacuum hose between cyl 3 & 4 on the intake manifold that draws air from the large port on the valve cover. If that passage is blocked, you will have a high vacuum in the crankcase. This is very likely why you had suction at the oil cap.

Is your air filter dirty?

What oil were you using?

Did someone else perform the oil changes?

What were the cylinder pressures for the test?

Has the engine ever overheated?

 

[yazan]

Is your air filter dirty?
no . its good
What oil were you using?
castrol 10w30 or petromin 10-30
Did someone else perform the oil changes?
no . only me, i changed the oil last night before the problem when started , i was driving in the highway , i feel after 250km like i will have a bad ignition coil like always, no dtc , no overheating , no oil loose or coolant level drop , so i feel ok until the codes set as described up
until now i dont have overheating or oil-coolant loose or mixing problem
the worst happen when back to home ... the brakes became harder some times , and BTW as long iam driving in high speed its ok and i dont feel any problem in the engine performance, but when slow down in city it's start the bumping / jumping / white smoke / dtc codes / engine power reduced

What were the cylinder pressures for the test?
i don't have the reading or numbers , tomorrow i will ask the workshop

Has the engine ever overheated?
no . at all
thanks

 

[gmcman]

When I say the passage may be blocked....could be any part of the PCV system. My guess is where the molded hose enters the crankcase..

If the motor has overheated, you could have a warped head and could cause a head gasket failure.

The white smoke kinda points to a head gasket.

One cylinder being dead could be from any valve not seating.

I would personally try to first clear the PCV restriction.

Then I would go to the dealer and get a can of BG EPR and run that in your crankcase per instructions.

Then try a can of BG44K in the fuel tank.

But if its pouring white smoke....then likely a head gasket but make sure first.

 

[Mooseman]

To get a definitive answer as to what failed, a leakdown test is needed. However, is it even worth it? It would be like doing a blood test on a dead body. Might tell you why that cylinder is dead, it will still be dead.

You are correct, 02-05 engine is a direct swap-in. If you do happen to find a better 06-07 engine, the only things you need to modify is the wiring to the temperature sender to go from where it is now above the thermostat to the right-rear and the ignition coils which use different connectors.

 

[yazan]

To get a definitive answer as to what failed, a leakdown test is needed. However, is it even worth it? It would be like doing a blood test on a dead body. Might tell you why that cylinder is dead, it will still be dead.

You are correct, 02-05 engine is a direct swap-in. If you do happen to find a better 06-07 engine, the only things you need to modify is the wiring to the temperature sender to go from where it is now above the thermostat to the right-rear and the ignition coils which use different connectors.

Thanks.
Are you sure its only the temp Sensore? No need for tuning / programming pcm? And the ignition coils connectors
Its better to. Find newer model like 2007 than 02-05

 

[Mooseman]

That and the coils as you keep your existing PCM and wiring. Just remembered that you would also need to swap your current fuel rail and injectors into the newer engine since yours is a return system and the newer ones are returnless.

Absolutely stay away from the 08-09 engines, as another member found out the hard way, they are totally not compatible with the older trucks.

 

[yazan]

Ok .they start swaping today. Bit they don't know for sure what year model that engine
They did the fuel rail swap (with injectors)
The ect location is the same and the coils also

 

[Mooseman]

I think this would be an '05 engine. It had a returnless fuel system, so they had to keep your old fuel rail, and it was the last year before the ECT moved and used the old coils.

Hope they catch that the oil pan in your '02 has a provision for the oil level sensor while the '05 doesn't so they would need to swap the oil pan. If they didn't, no big deal. Just unplug the sensor. In my '02, I had the sensor and it never went that low to activate. Probably why they got rid of it.

 

[yazan]

@Mooseman you are hero .you are the wiki. God bless you .

Is that sensor will let the oil gauge in dash go off?
Or its the "check engine oil. Level" when set in dtc?
Another thing is the resonator in 02 there is hose / tube that connected to something close to the fuel rail.
But in the new resonator there is no plug for that hose. Its closed .

I forgot to check the other hose that go to the back of the engine

Thanks

 

[xavierny25]

Off topic:

@Mooseman you are hero .you are the wiki.

He's more like a wookie. Lol.but I get your point he does know his sh*t.

 

[yazan]

Off topic:

He's more like a wookie. Lol.but I get your point he does now his sh*t.

I mean wiki.. From wikipedia

 

[Mooseman]

Is that sensor will let the oil gauge in dash go off?
Or its the "check engine oil. Level" when set in dtc?

Although I never saw it, it should give a low oil level alert but as long as there is oil pressure, the fake gauge will show fake pressure. Apparently it would just give this message on startup only and go out.

Another thing is the resonator in 02 there is hose / tube that connected to something close to the fuel rail.
But in the new resonator there is no plug for that hose. Its closed .

You should keep the resonator from the '02 for that hose. It's for the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

I forgot to check the other hose that go to the back of the engine

You mean you have a vacuum line that goes towards the rear? That means you have an EXT? That's for the coolant diverter valve for the rear heater core. There should be a nipple at the front of the intake manifold but if the new engine was not from an EXT, that nipple may not have vacuum and may need to be drilled out. This thread talks about it.

What is this connection? (top front of Intake Manifold)

(2006 Trailblazer LT 4.2L 4X4) Backstory - Recently had a P0171 and P0306 and couldn't pass inspection. I changed the air filter, cleaned the Throttle Body (Carb Cleaner), the MAF and MAP (MAF Cleaner - 12hrs + dry time), changed the Intake manifold gaskets and cleaned out the manifold...

gmtnation.com

He's more like a wookie. Lol.

Yeah, he's seen me and he's right but in Canada, we have moose so... And no, I'm not hairy

 

[yazan]

You mean you have a vacuum line that goes towards the rear? That means you have an EXT? That's for the coolant diverter valve for the rear heater core. There should be a nipple at the front of the intake manifold but if the new engine was not from an EXT, that nipple may not have vacuum and may need to be drilled out. This thread talks about it.

Rear heater core.
If its related to rear ac heater. I don't need the heating at all. Can I just keep it unplugged ?
Yes I have ext
So .thanks I understand that the fuel pressure regulator Hose is must to do.
Sorry for the too much questions. The mechanic Sayed the spark pkugs in the new engine is ngk .not acdelco.. Are the ngk ok?
The new engine first test done today and its smooth . and no smoke no ticking sounds. Except at the first start there was some kind of sounds but its go away after minute .they said its first time started since years. I have one month warranty only. So I have to test it good .

 

[TollKeeper]

I would swap out the plugs during your engine swap, and go with the OEM ACDelco plugs.

 

[Mooseman]

If it's the NGK Iridium, you should be fine as they apparently make them for ACDelco. If anything but Iridium, swap them.

You could leave it disconnected but not sure if that would stop circulation to the rear heater core. Maybe the reason the engineers added it was to increase rear A/C efficiency.

 

[yazan]

I pick up the car today and I got p0332 while driving back to home
How bad is that ?