Official post whore thread!!!
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ItsOnVoy
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Fire06 said:
I prob wouldnt do red since I have a black and pewter theme going, but I see what your saying! I am thinking of painting the inside of it but then covering it with something clear so that nothing can get in there and ruin the paint (like snow dirt etc) Just not sure what I can use yet.
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ItsOnVoy said:
I would not sand. Just try to the touch up paint. If it does not stick, then you only lost a bit of time since you can easily remove it all cause it does not stick, but I have seen plenty of epople paint a bit here and there for accents without issue.
07ChevyTruck
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07ChevyTruck
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Good afternoon whores. Once again this work thing is getting in the way of the forums.07ChevyTruck said:Work Day Is Almost Over!!!!
Why not mask up the GMC and use plastic dip? If you don't like it you can just peel it back off.
harmless
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Good evening my whores. (with a Dracula accent)
Re: Painting the wheels.
My two cents: The vinyl may not stick well (or long) because of the movement (spinning) & heat of the wheels. If you're gonna test paint, use a water-based acrylic paint. It'll come off quickly and easily if you don't like the end results. If you want a more permanent solution, tape the area around the lettering and the rest of the wheel off so you don't damage it. Wet sand with 2500 then 3000 grit paper to remove the clear & coloring. Prime and paint the lettering with HI-TEMP primer & paint and a small brush (or air-brush if you're of the talented type). Let dry & cure. Put a second layer on if you like. Unmask the center cap and re-apply a few coats of HI-TEMP clear over the worked area and the center cap, making sure you "wrap" around the edges with it to help mitigate peeling. If you want a more even finish, clean the wheel thoroughly and wet sand the rest of the wheel and re-apply the HI-TEMP clear to the whole wheel.
Keep in mind, these are the musings of a back-yard, amature body-man. The theory hasn't been tested personally. These are the steps I would take if I wished to try the project.
Re: Painting the wheels.
My two cents: The vinyl may not stick well (or long) because of the movement (spinning) & heat of the wheels. If you're gonna test paint, use a water-based acrylic paint. It'll come off quickly and easily if you don't like the end results. If you want a more permanent solution, tape the area around the lettering and the rest of the wheel off so you don't damage it. Wet sand with 2500 then 3000 grit paper to remove the clear & coloring. Prime and paint the lettering with HI-TEMP primer & paint and a small brush (or air-brush if you're of the talented type). Let dry & cure. Put a second layer on if you like. Unmask the center cap and re-apply a few coats of HI-TEMP clear over the worked area and the center cap, making sure you "wrap" around the edges with it to help mitigate peeling. If you want a more even finish, clean the wheel thoroughly and wet sand the rest of the wheel and re-apply the HI-TEMP clear to the whole wheel.
Keep in mind, these are the musings of a back-yard, amature body-man. The theory hasn't been tested personally. These are the steps I would take if I wished to try the project.
ItsOnVoy
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djthumper said:
I would do that, but the problem is that those GMC on the caps are pretty small so it would be take such a long time to tape off and stuff.
harmless said:Good evening my whores. (with a Dracula accent)
Re: Painting the wheels.
My two cents: The vinyl may not stick well (or long) because of the movement (spinning) & heat of the wheels. If you're gonna test paint, use a water-based acrylic paint. It'll come off quickly and easily if you don't like the end results. If you want a more permanent solution, tape the area around the lettering and the rest of the wheel off so you don't damage it. Wet sand with 2500 then 3000 grit paper to remove the clear & coloring. Prime and paint the lettering with HI-TEMP primer & paint and a small brush (or air-brush if you're of the talented type). Let dry & cure. Put a second layer on if you like. Unmask the center cap and re-apply a few coats of HI-TEMP clear over the worked area and the center cap, making sure you "wrap" around the edges with it to help mitigate peeling. If you want a more even finish, clean the wheel thoroughly and wet sand the rest of the wheel and re-apply the HI-TEMP clear to the whole wheel.
Keep in mind, these are the musings of a back-yard, amature body-man. The theory hasn't been tested personally. These are the steps I would take if I wished to try the project.
I am thinking to sand those parts a bit or what I can (since its small and I have bigger fingers lol) and use the touch up paint to paint them like Kyle said. I mean the GMC emblem on the grille I did not sand down, just spray a couple of coats and then a couple of clear and has been holding great!! But there two different surfaces so one can hold better then the other! I have an idea in mind but not sure how well this could work and how messy it could get lol I was thinking of getting that glue the plumbers use the white one that needs a gun to get it out, take some out and put black paint on it and mix it so the white is black and then fill that GMC with black glue. But not sure if that kind of glue would hold?
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Hey Ho's. ...hey they are just rims.. many decades of Concours type work here.(& used car lot exp. Shhhh.)
so I would keep it simple..
Brake clean the rims real good spray bomb a puddle somewhere & use a Qtip it will look like you spent all day masking...lol..& if you don't like the result some quick work with carb cleaner to clean things up.
Just my 2 for you & I semi glossed black the inner edges of my LTZ wheels gave them more depth ...stilll like it...
Should have been factory IMO.
so I would keep it simple..
Brake clean the rims real good spray bomb a puddle somewhere & use a Qtip it will look like you spent all day masking...lol..& if you don't like the result some quick work with carb cleaner to clean things up.
Just my 2 for you & I semi glossed black the inner edges of my LTZ wheels gave them more depth ...stilll like it...
Should have been factory IMO.
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djthumper said:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2xggr3-eEJU/TsFWEGhAzDI/AAAAAAAAAXU/_iCS7mrQYo8/s1600/flies+on+shit.gif
Is this what you meant when you said Shit.
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Beer, shot, beer, shot, shot, beer, beer, shot, shot, shot, beer, then a big ole mixed drink and all will be better.
Reg hope the knee is just banged up. I ripped up the cartilage in mine and have been waiting for surgery which is happening soon. Crazy thing fell off a 2 step ladder, fastening a cradle to the roof of the truck to carry my sons racing shell. When I hit the ground twisted my knee causing all the damage. Stayed on my feet though, just cost me the knee.
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Fire06 said:
Oh I know all about knee damage. I have had work one the left knee twice, right knee once, and have already been told that both need to be replaced, however the VA says I am to young and the won't touch them yet. This is the reason, at least one of them, that I am usually up until 4am most nights. Partial tears in ACL, PCL, and Miniscus; scar tissue build up and arthritis makes for a bit of pain.
Did you forget that I am sensitive
Regulator said:
There is a new method I think pioneered out of California where the Knee is all measured up, I think by MRI and then one is made to you exact measurements. It is then manufactured out of titanium I think and then installed. The usual way I read about is to pick a size that is close to you and then install. Is new method makes one just like yours. I am not that bad yet but in the future who knows. This is my first time for knee surgery
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Regulator
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Fire06 said:
I live in Warsaw, IN which is the orthopedic capital of the world. The big three major manufacturers (Zimmer, Biomet, Depuy) of artificial joints are all located here. The issue is more the fact that the current life span for artificial joints is 20-30 years. I am 35, and still to young according to the docs.
07ChevyTruck
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