My battery is being drained over two night period

Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#1
My battery is being drained over two somtimes one night period

My 97x has a parasitic power drain as if there is a light or something electronic turned on even when engine is turned off?

I had this same problem w/ my van it turned out to be a inertia light that was easy to find.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated I’m not liking to sometimes have to charge battery for ten minutes then never really knowing if it will restart.



SM
 
#2
After a charge, you can try disconnecting the mega fuse in the front block, and then see how much charge it has the next day. If it's drained, then the culprit is powered by something in the front fuse block. If you still have good charge, then the culprit is powered from the rear fuse block. Should cut your troubleshooting options in half. :twocents:
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
#4
Yes sir to both questions. I'd disconnect both sides of the battery first to be safe. Then remove the mega fuse.
I'd also advise you to make sure the hvac system is completely turned off. Although it's going to do its own self check stuff later on when the battery is reconnected and you start the truck up.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#5
I'm suspicious of the blank NAV screen. where is it's fuse located?

Other than turning off power to climate control when adjusting temp. w/ knob I think this also turns on climate control.

another electrical observation unsure if it's normal.after turning engine off seams that either the NAV DVD or CD players drives are still rotating untill door is opened .

image of burn NAV
thanks
 

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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#9
I’ve been reading/researching drained battery

Carltons initial test sounds like a excellent plan.

?1.I assume the mega fuse links the two fuse blocks, will the vehicle start/run/drive w/out the rear fuse block? thinking no because fuel pump is located at the interia FB. I’m thinking the engine FB controls engine stuff an the interia FB controls none engine stuff?

?2.Has anyone here spliced a battery line kill switch it’s kindof tight but would be worth the effort when I know vehicle will be parked unstarted for a few days.

?3. I looked at the interia fuse block cover where is the lift gate module fuse located?



?4.I have a totalley dead battery this morning should I disconnect the battery from vehicle before I start to charge battery?

?5.I think there could be issues w/ the rear window wiper I'd like to pull it's fuse also.

additionalley I should mention that I physicalley removed the OEM air bags not electricalley yet. so I'll pull fuse #1 on engine FB

then the rear hatch I believe it's on the same circuit as the rear wiper #38 on interia FB



Please recommend a decent lithion miniature jump box.

V8 Engine
GMC Envoy mk2 – fuse box – engine compartment (V8 engine)

Fuses
Usage
1
Electrically-Controlled Air Suspension
2
Passenger’s Side High-Beam Headlamp
3
Passenger’s Side Low-Beam Headlamp
4
Back-Up-Trailer Lamps
5
Driver’s Side High-Beam Headlamp
6
Driver’s Side Low-Beam Headlamp
7
Windshield Wiper
8
Automatic Transfer Case
9
Windshield Wipers
10
Powertrain Control Module B
11
Fog Lamps
12
Stoplamp
13
Cigarette Lighter
14
Ignition Coils
15
Transmission Control Module (TCM) Canister Vent
16
Truck Body Controller, Ignition 1
17
Crank
18
Airbag
19
Trailer Electric Brake
20
Cooling Fan
21
Horn
22
Ignition E
23
Electronic Throttle Control
24
Instrument Panel Cluster, Driver Information Center
25
Automatic Shift Lock Control System
26
Engine 1
27
Backup
28
Powertrain Control Module 1
29
Powertrain Control Module
30
Air Conditioning
31
Injector Bank A
32
Trailer
33
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
34
Ignition A
35
Blower Motor
36
Ignition B
50
Passenger’s Side Trailer Turn
51
Driver’s Side Trailer Turn
52
Hazard Flashers
53
Transmission
54
Oxygen Sensor Bank B
55
Oxygen Sensor Bank A
56
Injector Bank B
57
Headlamp Driver Module
58
Truck Body Controller 1
59
Electric Adjustable Pedal
61
Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (StabiliTrak®)
62
Regulated Voltage Control

Relays
Usage
37
Headlamp Washer
38
Rear Window Wiper/Washer
39
Fog Lamps
40
Horn
41
Fuel Pump
42
Windshield Washer
43
High-Beam Headlamp
44
Air Conditioning
45
Cooling Fan
46
Headlamp Driver Module
47
Starter
49
Electric Adjustable Pedal
60
Powertrain

Miscellaneous
Usage
48
Instrument Panel Battery
Rear Underseat Fuse Block


GMC Envoy mk2 – fuse box – rear underseat fuse

Fuses
Usage
01
Right Door Control Module
02
Left Door Control Module
03
Liftgate Module 2
04
Truck Body Controller 3
05
Rear Fog Lamps
06
Blank
07
Truck Body Controller 2
08
Power Seats
09
Rear Wiper
10
Driver Door Module
11
Amplifier
12
Passenger Door Module
13
Rear Climate Controls
14
Driver Side Rear Parking Lamps
15
Blank
16
Vehicle Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)
17
Passenger Side Rear Parking Lamps
18
Locks
19
Liftgate Module/Driver Seat Module
20
Blank
21
Lock
23
Blank
24
Unlock
25
Blank
26
Blank
27
OnStar® Overhead Battery/OnStar® System
28
Sunroof
29
Not Used
30
Parking Lamps
31
Truck Body Controller Accessory
32
Truck Body Controller 5
33
Front Wipers
34
Vehicle Stop
35
Transmission Control Module
36
Heat Ventilation Air Conditioning B
37
Front Parking Lamps
38
Driver Side Turn Signal
39
Heat Ventilation Air Conditioning 1
40
Truck Body Controller 4
41
Radio
42
Trailer Park
43
Passenger Side Turn Signal
44
Heat Ventilation Air Conditioning
45
Rear Fog Lamps
46
Auxiliary Power 1
47
Ignition 0
48
Four-Wheel Drive
49
Blank
50
Truck Body Controller Ignition
51
Brakes
52
Truck Body Controller Run



Thanks SM
 
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#10
1. Try it. The rear fuse block takes care of the "creature comfort" and cabin interior stuff. It might not start if BCM is not getting power but have heard of people with most stuff not working because of a blown mega-fuse and start/running normally. Fuel pump is supplied by under hood box.

3. Check the list you posted. It's under rear seat.

4. Not a bad idea but not necessary. A slow charge of 5~10A will reduce damage to battery.

I think all lithium ion jumpers are the same. Just look for one with a higher rating for V8.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#11
OK charged the battery for one hour she will start and run. my cheapass chinese clips are diffacult to secure to the 8mm battery posts.atl. charging at 14.5V

I;ve dissconnected battery pulled the mega fuse also pulled from interia FB#3 fuse, been reading the rear hatchs module wiring is going to break the orange signal wire and the black ground, piss poor design w/ the cheapest wire GM could find.

I believe I'm missing a ground wire that attaches to the alt. bracket what part of the wire harness would this wire usalley be located at?

so now I'm waiting for tommowor
 

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#12
You need to tighten down the bolt from the battery because it supplies the under hood box. That's the bottom most bolt in your pic.

AFAIK, there is no ground wire at the alt bracket.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#13
yes I have tightened down the battery terminal I dissconnected it before I dissconnected the MF then reattached, if I didn't then the draw wouldn't take effect.

are you saying I need to tighten down the mega fuse terminals bolts even while the fuse is removed?
 
#14
You disconnected/removed the wrong megafuse terminal.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#15
I completely removed the mega fuse. in my image I kindof lifted the MF but then took the whole fuse out, it was a little trickie to remove w/out breaking it's holder. After removing the MF I retightened the MFs attachment bolts, she still starts/runs but windows ect. are none functional. the dash is displaying a outline of a battery in red. So tomorrow I will insert my amp meter into the negative of batterys circuit to see if there is a drain then start pulling fuses.

edit: I have also pulled the rear hatch #3 and onstar #27 fuse's don't ever plan on using onstar. to be continued.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#16
it took less than 5 hours to drain battery will disconnect battery to avoid complete discharge ruining battery. So the drain is in engines FB
 
#17
BTW, did you have your battery tested? Maybe it has an internal short and self discharges. Some might work right after a charge or running but after a while they lose their juice.

If that checks out, pull all the fuses in the front box and check for a drain when you put in each fuse. Would be better to use an ammeter rather than draining the battery overnight.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
#18
This suggestion is a paraphrased excerpt from a SAAB 9-7X Site with FAQs:

http://www.thesaabsite.com/faqs/9-7x/FAQs.html

Electrical Testing for Battery Drain:

In order to Test for Electrical Drains on the Battery, you need to place a Test Light between the Negative Battery Terminal and the Actual Battery Cable, with the two disconnected. Then… Pull One Fuse at a Time until the light goes out. Whatever Fuse ...or Combination of Fuses are causing the Test Light to go out will tell you Where the Drain is Coming From. This will tell you where the problem is and you can address whatever Component or Relay that is causing the issue.

With the Battery Drain happening in only (5) Five Hours... My money is on your Sound Amplifier and/or the 12 VDC Relay servicing it. You could start by pulling THAT fuse after first measuring Battery Voltage and then re-check it an hour later. If the BV has not appreciably dropped by then... You know to either pull the AMP fuse permanently... or ... Just Yank Out that AMP and Relay and start testing things.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#19
update
the battery had a dead cell probablley because it was discharged a few times, it's now replaced and has 12.5VDC

inserted the amp meter into the negative batterys circuit found a 3.3 amp draw.
pulled every fuse one at a time and reinserted each fuse the only fuse that reduced the draw significantly was the
radio fuse #41 interia FB went from 3.3amps down to 1.3amps some other fuses made like 1/2 a amp differcnce I'm thinking still too much of a draw.

I'm using a crumie harbor frieght mulit meter it has the current meter to read amps the POS HF meter the test leads broke right of the first use so I'm holding the leads w/ clips /vice gripes /my hand.
this cheapass crape from harbor frieght the wires are so thin that when in contact w/ 3.3 amps the wires melt however I'm still able to mearsure amps.
will retest every circuit, any advice

Thanks Guy's I'm hoping for reliable transportation
 
#20
I have seen a stock radio draw power like that even when off. I think it's because the 6CD rack inside was jammed and probably constantly trying to eject.

You're on the right track. Keep at it.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#21
OK I don't know if this 97x has a 6CD rack where is it located?

and is the 1.3 amps a serious drain that will continue to ruin batteries? thanks SM
 
#23
It's inside the radio. And yes, that ribbon is suspect.

And yeah, 1.3A is too much. But remember if you open a door, it wakes up the BCM and other stuff like the HVAC temp sensor.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#24
so the CD changer is inside the head unit?

actualley I had both the driver front /rear doors open during testing I didn't see a button/switch to electricalley shut door off like it was closed.
will retest w/ doors closed.
is the ribbon cable the interface connection to the the CD/DVDs rom.? like can I dissconnect ribbon and still have at least a radio? Thanks SM
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
#27
If you have Kids ...and leave loose change laying in the Ash Tray... There have been instances where they will creatively use the CD Slot like a "Slot Machine" and drop coins and/or paper-clips etc.inside that will dead short out the device (and occasionally... the OBD2 Network... so if you wind up pulling it out.. open the cover door and perform 'The Shake Test' to listen for the tinkle/rattle of such things hidden inside.
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#28
no Kids but will perform 'The Shake Test' to listen for the tinkle/rattle just previous to smashing & throwing radio in trash can.

during testing w/ drivers door front/rear open would that be worth 1.3 amps of draw?
thanks
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
#29
It certainly could... and it's funny you should ask the Question because it has only been recent that I started 'reverse-engineering' the PCM, BCM and LGM Modules as regards how the 'single wire' OBD2 Network functions with the GMT360 vehicles and using my "GYMKO" Tech2 Clone for these Diagnostics. But... it got even more interesting concerning what you are dealing with as relating to Basic Electrical Problems. It happened that I ran across a problem with the (LGM) Lift Gate Module that involves Trailblazers and Envoys... but MAY also be involved with your 'Mysterious Battery Killing Drain'.

Have a look at THESE images and please note that the 'chewed', raggedy-ass separated Orange, Black (and other) Wires were caused by the repeated manual use of the Lift Gate as the Cause and Origin of the Very Same Problem; either by being S_T_R_E_T_C_H_E_D ... or by Work Hardening the Copper Innards... or just having them get 'pinched off' between the Lift Gate and the Truck Frame. So it might be well worth your time to Investi"GATE" yours by very carefully pulling the Weather Boot loose and ...Inspect Those Wires with a Bright Flashlight or Back Probe for any Shorts if needed :

LGM1.jpg LGMINSTALLED.jpg LGMTHRUTHEBOOTWIRING1.jpg LGMTHRUTHEBOOTWIRING2.jpg LGMTHRUTHEBOOTWIRING3.jpg LGMTHRUTHEBOOTWIRING.jpg
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#31
not having problems yet. w/ key fob.
curious how much of a drain is created w/ both doors open during my testing? I'll test that next by physicalley closing the doors. but doe's the 1.3amp draw seam high for doors open?
Thanks SM
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#33
update
w/ door open it adds tad more than 1 amp. to readings I am getting erroneous readings I think it could be turning on modules and then these modules take there time to unenergize.

how long should I leave a fuse out? I've been reinserting after 5 seconds it seams like I have been turning the meter off then back on after reinserting the fuses to verify draw amount.

I have only tested /removed the spade fuses haven't removed the square larger fuses or even a radio related relay, actually looked for a radio relay on the printed fuse box didn't see such relay.

anyway my findings are after reinserting fuse except for radio are now mysteriously down to a .14 amp draw I'm thinking is normal for the burglar alarm, that w/ door closed. maybe I cleaned the ternimals when removing and reinserting fuse.

I have also observed that the amp draw takes time to reduce around 20 seconds after I close door.

not sure if I fixed anything except for removing a problematic radio.
Thanks for advice @MRRSM
 
#34
When you have your doors open, are your dome lights on? Or do you press the override button to shut them off? The additional lights being on will add to your current draw, until the BCM times out and shuts them off on it's own. Think that's about 10 minutes IIRC
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#35
"When you have your doors open, are your dome lights on?" no domes are off.

press the override button to shut them off no I haven't pressed anything.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
#36
In the attached link below… Post #22 (look at the Third of the Three attached screen images of the Tech2) and Post #38 might be of particular interest to you as these touch upon “MODULES” in a the GM Automotive Class 2 OBD2 System; especially those that involve the problem of ‘Modules NOT Going to Sleep...”. Unfortunately, this Class 2 Network Design sports a “Single Wire” as the means for all communication and allows for a kind of “Net Neutrality” so that ANY or ALL of the Modules on “ The Net” for OBD2 to affect all of the others in the system… if any one of them becomes FUBAR.

This translates to say… Investigating your (LGM) by simply measuring the Battery Voltage First ...and then Unplugging the Three LGM Connectors Second… and see if that Voltage Drain Disappears. I’m sure that merely suggesting this as a test to be done is a damned side easier to mention than you having to pull screws, panels, etc… while laying on your back and quite uncomfortable… BUT… if that LGM does turn out to be the FUBAR Module… you would need to R&R in a Brand New One anyway and you'll be half way through the repair if this turns out to be the issue. (Assuming of course that the SAAB 9-7X even has a Lift Gate).

When time permits… There is a great deal more information in that Thread about the need for using a Tech2 Hand-Held Scanner in order to be able to *Ping* the Network Modules and actually see if they respond properly during Tech2 Diagnostics. @Mooseman is the Sterling Sage on Tech 2 matters ...and his 'stickies' and information will prove invaluable if you decide to look into obtaining one while they are still available at AliExpress.com for around $330.00 with Free S&H.

https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...ng-of-a-gm-repaired-instrument-cluster.18272/
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#37
my findings are after reinserting fuse except for radio are now mysteriously down to a 1.4 amp draw then I close door 20 seconds later draw is reduced .14 is this normal? or will drain continue?
thanks
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
#38
it is likely normal.... it would appear that your radio (which is what and how is its connected to your truck... adapter harness which can go bad! ... maybe?) is a good candidate for the ultimate battery killing.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
#39
There might be another 'culprit on the network' playing its part, too...

I think this has already been mentioned by other Members in this Thread… But to make it “Official”, this is an excerpt that may cover the last little bit of voltage draw … With recognition noted for “TV” as the source:

http://forums.trailvoy.com/archive/index.php/t-83560.html

Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-007B
Date: November 05, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject:
Automatic Dual Zone HVAC Battery Draw

Models:
2004-2007 Buick Rainier
2002-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
2002-2008 GMC Envoy Models
2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-007A (Section 01 - HVAC).

When diagnosing battery draws on trucks equipped with the automatic dual zone HVAC controls (RPO CJ2), technicians should keep in mind that the control head does not completely "go to sleep" until after 150-250 minutes, or up to 4-1/4 hours, from when the ignition key is turned OFF. This is a normal condition. In these cases, DO NOT replace the control head.

Keep up your very evident diligence, Brother… What you discover will help so many more Saab, TB and Envoy Owners in the future if you completely solve this “Electricity Draining Mystery”. :>)
 
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Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
#40
Update removed radio and it’s fuse #41

Battery has been holding charge at 12.55VDC since 9:00am

Close to 11 hours.



During this time I checked battery voltage several times.



Around 4:00PM w/ doors closed and car off for about 4 hours I inserted the

amp meter back into the negative of battery circuit

Checking if the drain was still there.

This test reveiled a 9 amp drain then it steadily went to a zero drain.



Hopefully the battery will hold a charge. Will report back.



I’ll be needing a radio this looks kindof good. curious if there are plug & play plugs to ease Installation and will it be compatable w/ OEM speakers? will start thread on a new head unit.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-B...1&refRID=624JDKM9BCFXCHWV7ADW#customerReviews
https://jet.com/product/detail/4553...MImLuQ7J_F2gIVxo-zCh0V_QD3EAQYBSABEgJPKPD_BwE
 
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