My battery is being drained over two night period

budwich

Well-Known Member
maybe not so fast..... if its a "stock radio" then your problem maybe be elsewhere. As mentioned, other modules can cause a problem with the data system. One of the "known problems" is when the LGM modules starts "babbling" because of wiring issues.... the "babbling" results in the radio being "waken up" because it is responsible for providing "audible notifications" for things like "open port / door" ( you know those anoying dings)... which things like the LGM might be continuously reporting.... so you do need to check at least that module out... disconnect it and see if you notice a "long term change" in draw.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Yes... The Radio for certain... But every other Module also has "An Equal Opportunity to Independently Fail" on this Network and perhaps some of them require closer looks... Especially those suffering from the greatest amount of Daily Use. Poorly connected Module Plugs, right along with the constant jarring and push-pull happening upon the lift gate with body vibrations induced from daily driving creates dynamics that can cause the wire harnesses to swing to and fro and move around quite a bit. This can result in the Male Metal Blades of the LGM Logic Board to be bounced around and pulled free enough from the Loose Connector(s) to make them Electrically 'Arc' within the confines of their Female Counterparts.

These actions can generate Extreme Electrical Flashes intermittently; while emitting Radio Waves in all frequencies (...think of hearing the static in your Radio Speakers caused by Lightning Bolt Strikes) and generate temperatures hot enough to Weld Metal and Melt Plastic. So in this matter, I agree with @budwich) about the LGM "chattering" (...or 'babbling' as he described these disruptions) can literally turn the LGM Electronics ...Off and On... enabling and disabling the ordinary "0-5 VDC" On-Off Pulse Width Modulation Signals on the 'single wire' used for proper Network Communications to and from the BCM. The obvious results of what happens over time can seen in the attached images of these precisely damaged LGM Electrical Sub-Components. Anyway... If you decide to look into this...If nothing else, at least you'll know what you're looking for and that a very close inspection is necessary here to find such problems that are ordinarily concealed from plain view:

s-l1600E.jpgDSC01483.jpgDSC01478.jpgDSC01466.jpgDSC01472.jpgDSC01462.jpgDSC01460.jpgDSC01459.jpgDSC01456.jpgDSC01458.jpgDSC01451.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
S

Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
update battery went from 12.55VDC last night down to 12.42VDC this morning, over a 12 hour period of time.

hopefully the liftgate will hold off a little while before it ruins another battery.I don't see anyway to physically open liftgate (like the drivers door w/ key) I assume the only way the liftgate can be opened is w/ key FOB.

I only have one key can my key FOB key section be duplicated as a regular none electrcal key?
Thanks SM
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Off topic but a quick answer. You can get a Trailblazer or Envoy remote and use it in your Saab. Just need to program it. The electronic guts are the same.

The key is another story. If you want just a key to open doors, it's cheap. If you want one to also start the engine, you need one with a chip. Most locksmiths can duplicate you current chipped key.

And yes, the Saabs use PK3 chipped keys whereas the rest of the GMT360 universe use no-chip Passlock keys.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
These folks have a Web Site listed at the end of their short 'video spiel' about changing the Battery in the Saab Key-Fob...and they sell the New Key Fobs as well as replacement batteries. More than likely they can help you out via a phone call on how to dupe or copy the GM Programming for your Lone Fob:

 
OP
OP
S

Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
The key is another story. If you want just a key to open doors, it's cheap. If you want one to also start the engine, you need one with a chip. Most locksmiths can duplicate you current chipped key.

And yes, the Saabs use PK3 chipped keys whereas the rest of the GMT360 universe use no-chip Passlock keys.
yes want a (just in case key to unlock and start keep in wallet) I don't see a pellet (builtin resister) on the key like my cars key.

I hope the 97x doesn't have the same problemattic VATS sys. as the car.
thanks SM

These folks have a Web Site listed at the end of their short 'video spiel' about changing the Battery in the Saab Key-Fob...and they sell the New Key Fobs as well as replacement batteries. More than likely they can help you out via a phone call on how to dupe or copy the GM Programming for your Lone Fob:

thanks for link
 
OP
OP
S

Sprung Monkey

Well-Known Member
update on the battery drain after a two night period of time of being unstarted the battery is down to 11.9VDC is this normal or is there still a drain? if yes how low can a battery go down and still be normal?

edit" yesterday which was the beginning of day two I made the mistake of opening the liftgate just to get stuff out then closed right away.
Thanks SM
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
There might be a better way to isolate the individual circuit for testing with your hopefully, Very Sensitive DVOM. The attached link will show you a Kit that has various sizes of Yellow Plastic Fuse Blade Connectors that, while NOT having a Built-In Fusible Link Feature, will still allow you to plug those blades into the individual electrical circuit path Fuses that are strictly handling the component(s) you suspect are causing the drain down problem.

You would simply have to attach your DVOM leads to the two Blade sides... instead of trying to read System Wide Voltage Drops at the battery and keep having to guess where else to look. Those isolated circuit tests might help to pin-point ...or at least narrow down where the problem is, Better yet... Solder on some lengths of 14AWG Insulated Copper Wire with discreet insulated connectors and thus, allow you the more freedom of movement to read the DVOM when say... rolling the window down in the rear Driver's side Door and feeding the wires through to perform the test with all the Doors Closed when investigating the various Fuses in the Rear Fuse Block and the DVOM is resting on your Hood. Just some Food for Thought:

https://www.amazon.com/GTC-CT6100-Fuse-Socket-Connector/dp/B001TCXOTW/ref=sr_1_5/143-7262795-2218743?ie=UTF8&qid=1524251631&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+connectors



612hHKYPuzL._SL1500_.jpg
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
This might seem like a bit of a H/J … and perhaps a bit exotic… but since we’ve been discussing the involvement of the “GM OBD2 Network” and all the weird problems therein involving any/all Modules on ‘The Net’…I thought it might be worth suggesting one other additional diagnostic avenue to investigate by using an OBD2 Break-Out Box to diagnose the Network for any Voltage Spikes or Shorts to Ground or other kinds of Data Interrupts on the Network that can also involve problems with the various Network Splice Packs where the Modular Network Wires converge to meet up with the OBD2 Female Port under the Knee Panel in the Saab. There are many things this device can do, such as help to analyze on the performance of the Battery Charging System as well.

Here is what AliExpress offers as their basic (Probably Best for the Price) OBD2 Breakout Box for around $63.00:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Breakout-Box-OBDII-Breakout-Box-OBD-OBD2-Break-Out-Box-Car-Protocol-Detector-Auto-Can-Test/32813230134.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.1d537672JiuHjf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_10341_10548_5722915_10698_10545_5722615_10697_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_5722715_5711215_10059_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_5711315_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_68,ppcSwitch_3&algo_expid=29968f23-6cfb-4c27-aba3-4f4efbb85814-3&algo_pvid=29968f23-6cfb-4c27-aba3-4f4efbb85814&priceBeautifyAB=0

...and here is the Amazon offering on a similar device for a bit more money:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD2CM5B/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3534659722&pd_rd_wg=g26Dw&pf_rd_r=5KVP4V1YCTHP70KKMPPR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B06XD2CM5B&pd_rd_w=FTJsg&pf_rd_i=OBD+II+data+link+connector&pd_rd_r=3d05f624-d82e-4e91-8438-37e03704f021&ie=UTF8&qid=1524265800&sr=3#customerReviews

Here are some Generic Videos on How this Equipment Functions and to give you an idea of what to do with the basic unit as well for your Network Diagnostics if you decide to obtain one:


 

Mooseman

Moderator
Yeah, a LOT of a hijack! Way beyond the possibility and capability of most.

And it would be like analyzing the power grid as to the reason I have a burnt out light bulb.
 

Jimmy vanwy

New Member
My battery is being drained over two somtimes one night period

My 97x has a parasitic power drain as if there is a light or something electronic turned on even when engine is turned off?

I had this same problem w/ my van it turned out to be a inertia light that was easy to find.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated I’m not liking to sometimes have to charge battery for ten minutes then never really knowing if it will restart.



SM
I replaced my inition When this happened to me and problem was solved. It cost me like 20 bucks for the ignition
 

Online statistics

Members online
12
Guests online
639
Total visitors
651

Forum statistics

Threads
20,065
Messages
589,028
Unanswered questions
1
Answered questions
2
Members
12,914
Latest member
Magicks72
Top Bottom