Members projector retrofits

I'm also eyeing halos (the ones in closeouts..) have them in my cart and everything. Just trying to decide if I want them or new brake light bulbs first. Also considering picking up another set of the 3five bulbs since they're so cheap.
 
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Midnyteryder196 said:
It's a Buick... Lol. Did you really think they would be priced as cheap as the ls tb lights? Haha.
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The Buick lights are still cheaper than the TBLT headlights. Cost me $330 for an aftermarket set of LT headlights. This is a big boy mod for sure. I spent $800 on my retro. I know Aarkon has over $1000. No idea what Carlton has spent.


Tiggerr said:
Yep! That's why I still need them... Lol
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Definitely save money. Buy the headlights first then save up for the retro parts and a HID kit. It will give you more time to research and ask quetions. I did a quick search on HIDP and there was only one thread back in 2005 for the Rainier. Just talking about swapping halogens for HIDs.

For what retro kits/options are out there, check out http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ .

Also for everything HID and projectors, look around this forum, http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/
 
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dmanns67 said:
No idea what Carlton has spent...
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:squint: :jawdrop2: :wowfaint: Don't ask... You don't wanna even know... :bonk: :stars: :hopeless:
 
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Yea. I've been wanting to crack them open again, it's like once you do it you just want to do it more and more. It's a disease for sure, so far I've been keeping the mod bug at bay by planing other mods I see as useful. Like I've been tossing around the idea of installing an inverter and other stuff. But the halos are pretty cheap...
 
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If you don't want LED there's a fella on hidp selling some 70mm ccfl's. (EDIT: he wants $20 for them. End edit)I assume that you know that 70mm is the size for the mini gat shrouds.

I also wanna color mod mine while they're open and maybe get some passive demon eye action going on. :yes:

Gotta mod the mods.
 
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And mods on top of mods on top of mods on top of mods. [emoji13] I should've just done them when I ordered the kit (aka my Christmas present from mo... santa. ) At the time I was on the fence about the look, have no clue why now though lol. If I do it, they will be the drls. I just don't know how to hide the wires, otherwise I have it planned out in my head. [emoji106]
 
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Yeah I felt--and still do--that they MIGHT look tacky. But anyone I've said anything to about them say "aw yeah! Do it!" So idk lol. Might as well cash in when they're half priced anyways lol.
 
Oh I ment the overall look of the projectors on the truck. But yea the halos too. My thought pattern was, if I don't like the look of the projectors,why draw more attention? But I really like the look, and now I kinda want to show it off. I saw one with the eBay projector headlights today. Kinda was curious in the output difference. They don't look bad, but I like mine better. [emoji2]
 
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littleblazer said:
Oh I ment the overall look of the projectors on the truck. But yea the halos too. My thought pattern was, if I don't like the look of the projectors,why draw more attention? But I really like the look, and now I kinda want to show it off. I saw one with the eBay projector headlights today. Kinda was curious in the output difference. They don't look bad, but I like mine better. [emoji2]
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Oh same here lol. And Ebay projectors are made for halogen bulbs so I doubt they'd compare to our minis lol.


-you should see how much brighter the minis are with 55w ballasts. I almost drool on myself. :rotfl:
 
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35w is plenty bright for me, I really wonder how bad the bowl burning is. I'd imagine the eBay ones aren't aimed well either.
 
littleblazer said:
35w is plenty bright for me, I really wonder how bad the bowl burning is. I'd imagine the eBay ones aren't aimed well either.
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Burning the reflector bowl renders them completely useless. You will have to tear open the lights and replace the projectors. Too much ass pain and money for me for a self induced issue.

There are many threads and pics on HIDP about burning the reflector bowl. Its not instant though. Most threads I read said the burn happened in about a year of use.

Like you said, 35w is bright enough. If I need more, I just turn on my hi beams :yes:
 
littleblazer said:
35w is plenty bright for me, I really wonder how bad the bowl burning is. I'd imagine the eBay ones aren't aimed well either.
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It's pretty bad. I did some research before putting 55w in mine and only found one thread showing pics of burnt minih1 bowls and it was the 5.0 or older bowls. Never seen any 6.0 bowls like what we have get burnt.

I knew they were <5.0 bowls because they didn't have the step on the bowl. But I guess most people listen to the majority when they preach to not put 55w in the minis.

For me, 35w was fine...but I craved more and decided to roll the dice. Gotta remember, my ballasts are cheap Ebay ones which I'm quite sure were putting out under 35w because the 4300k bulbs were cooler white than I thought they should be, closer to 5500/6000k. Now with the cheap 55w ballasts, it's a warm white like I'd expect. Maybe a little warmer than 4300k but I like it.

If I burn my bowls, oh well. I can replace them.


And no, Ebay ones can have horrible aiming, I've seen pics where rotation was off about 30 degrees.
 
Mounce said:
It's pretty bad. I did some research before putting 55w in mine and only found one thread showing pics of burnt minih1 bowls and it was the 5.0 or older bowls. Never seen any 6.0 bowls like what we have get burnt.

I knew they were <5.0 bowls because they didn't have the step on the bowl. But I guess most people listen to the majority when they preach to not put 55w in the minis.

For me, 35w was fine...but I craved more and decided to roll the dice. Gotta remember, my ballasts are cheap Ebay ones which I'm quite sure were putting out under 35w because the 4300k bulbs were cooler white than I thought they should be, closer to 5500/6000k. Now with the cheap 55w ballasts, it's a warm white like I'd expect. Maybe a little warmer than 4300k but I like it.

If I burn my bowls, oh well. I can replace them.


And no, Ebay ones can have horrible aiming, I've seen pics where rotation was off about 30 degrees.
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Well. Keep us up with how they work. I also found with the morimoto ballast that the 4300k is whiter than I would've expected, with the highs on the color isn't really close, the hids are like sunlight white while the highs are yellower. The color is perfect for me since the blue annoys my eyes, my friends boat is white with blue led ambiance lighting, you can't see anything, ours is red and that doesn't hurt night vision at all. And my little one is blue, but it's a little higher on the color scale and it also doesn't hurt night vision. Blue just hurts my eyes. Any one know roughly what temperature the cadillac hid in reflectors is? Those are pretty blue.
 
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Okay, already planning passive demon eye by painting the shield assemble red.

How over board would it be to put some red LEDs in there to get even more of the demon eye effect?

I run into the issue of "when should I have the LEDs on so that they can be seen?" Because I'm never really out right at dusk and then after a certain point I'd turn my headlights on and then the LEDs will be drowned out. I'm thinking I'd just run them on my parking lights so they'd always be on instead of trying to decide when to turn them on or not.

I can get a roll of red 5630's for $10 and then I'd only use about 6 LEDs per projector leaving me plenty for other accent lighting.

So, go over board
Or
Don't?
 
:rotfl: I'm just at the point of needing someone to talk me into it. I'll tell myself "forget it, it'll be too much of a struggle" then I get to changing my mind again and wanting to do it.

I've already got it all thought out on how to mount them inside...it'll just take some time.
 
It's like when you're a kid and you first go to a pool. You can either stick your toe in and feel the water or jump in.

I think sticking your toe in makes you not want to do it so I suggest jumping in.

You already did the projector retro so I think this won't be bad for ya.
 
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Let the demons out! If you make them bright enough you can use them as your drls. Then with the halos too, that'll look sweet. [emoji2]
 
I'm thinking I can easily fit about 6 5630's in there, maybe more, so it should be pretty bright.

It'll also have some bleed out so maybe it'll shine through the vents in the shrouds too.
 
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Silicone LED strips and direct HID exposure do not play nice together. When I did this my first time around, I used 5050 strips with 9 LEDs each. After a few months, this is what the ones above the cutoff looked like.

20131229_152905_zpsfqz6f6j3.jpg



These were the ones below, in decent condition.

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The cooked ones, barely worked, if at all. The ones below the cutoff shield were OK.

20131229_153050_zpspnhyk2dw.jpg


20131229_153057_zpsnm7fvefz.jpg
 
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Tried to take a pic of the tiny bit of color flicker....my phone said NOPE! Gonna have to try out the point and shoot sometime..

uploadfromtaptalk1426810712753.jpg


-and Carlton, I was planning to either put a continuous strip wrapping around the outside of the lens holder or fab up some brackets out of some aluminum flashing and attach the strips on the sides, again outside of the lens holder. Even thought about running a strip around the inside of the shroud.

Do you think "waterproof" or "non waterproof" would be better? And will the adhesive on them hold up or should I get some better double sided tape?
 
Water proof shouldn't matter. If you get to the point where water is getting on the LED strips, you've got bigger problems. :ugh:

I replace the adhesive on all my strips with the 3M double sided molding tape. Overkill for sure, but things don't come off, as they have with strips come with just tacky glue. :no:
 
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Just saw that you mentioned "silicone LED strips" so thought I'd ask. Didn't wanna melt the silicone off lol.

I think I'd peel the silicone off anyways if I can find the "waterproof" version.

You got any pics of your demon eyes lit up on the TB?
 
No good demon eye pics. I had the halos set to run along with them as DRLs, and they looked good in person, but the halos were so bright, that they washed out the demon eyes in pics. Probably why it took me so long to realize the strips weren't working right.

The silicone wasn't the issue, all it did was get baked into a hard shell. As you can see, it was still transparent. LEDs don't like heat, it causes them to have a shortened lifespan. The brown bits you see are the white casing of the LEDs, THAT part is burnt.
 
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From up close, or at night, they were visible. I didn't paint my shields though, I'm sure that had a little to do with it. Because of the angles, and lack of paint, the blue wasn't super bright, and the halos did overpower them when you stood at a distance. :twocents:
 
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A little test fit teaser. The other lights they're going in are brand new so no nasty yellow tint. The light output is already like night and day with projectors vs. No projectors. My turn signal lense broke so when the new ones come apart I'll take care of that.
 

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Mounce said:
Looks good. For a second I thought you'd blacked out the high beam bowl but it looks like the bowls aren't even in there.
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No I did black out high beam bowl lol. Both bowls are there. It was just a quick mock up with the stock lights I had. I rarely use my high beams, my projectors are bi-xenon, and I'm more then likely adding led pods for stock high beam bowl.
 
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68impalacp said:
No I did black out high beam bowl lol. Both bowls are there. It was just a quick mock up with the stock lights I had. I rarely use my high beams, my projectors are bi-xenon, and I'm more then likely adding led pods for stock high beam bowl.
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Gotcha lol. Reasonable enough I guess. :raspberry:
 
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Blckshdw said:
I replace the adhesive on all my strips with the 3M double sided molding tape. Overkill for sure, but things don't come off, as they have with strips come with just tacky glue. :no:
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I'm guessing molding tape isn't the same as mounting tape, is it? Lol that's all I've found so far at Walmart..


Edit-found it in the automotive section lol
 
Mounce said:
:rotfl: I'm just at the point of needing someone to talk me into it. I'll tell myself "forget it, it'll be too much of a struggle" then I get to changing my mind again and wanting to do it.

I've already got it all thought out on how to mount them inside...it'll just take some time.
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Just do it!
 
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Okay guys, as you've seen, I got my halos today, there's three input wires. Red, white, and black.

Red and black are positive and negative like you'd expect but then white cuts power when it's connected to positive...what's the white wire for? To make it act like a switchback if it's connected to the turn signal wire?
 
Close but no cigar, that's for the new switchback ones with white and amber. Thanks though, I haven't done a bit of searching yet lol, just thought maybe Carlton or Ryan or someone might know off the top of their head what the deal is since they've had halos.
 
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