07TrailyLS
Member
Members projector retrofits
- Thread starter Mounce
- Start date
07TrailyLS
Member
aaronbtb
Member
- May 16, 2015
- 82
Here is some teaser photos of just the FXR-3 in my retrofit. More to come later. Still need to do some wiring to get the Mini 7.0's working.
Before anyone says they are aimed to high, I parked next to a 2013 F150 with stock HIDs, and a 2010 Audi A4, parked 60 feet away from a wall and aimed mine the same high as both the other vehicles.
Before anyone says they are aimed to high, I parked next to a 2013 F150 with stock HIDs, and a 2010 Audi A4, parked 60 feet away from a wall and aimed mine the same high as both the other vehicles.
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xavierny25
Member
This is a budget projector retrofit but it turned out pretty nice on my voy. Here are shots after I polished up these head lights that came from an 04.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
oster200
Member
Well my retrofit is finally done, its only been about 2-3 months since I got them haha. I don't have them in yet I will do that tomorrow morning. If anyone followed my earlier thread about some basic questions about HID's than you know that when I bought my headlight housing I received one that was damaged. They sent me a new one and told me that I could throw the other away, because there was no need to keep me waiting any longer for a new one to be sent out. I used the broken one to test a whole bunch of things so it became very useful. Later I found out that the replacement was also damaged but not bad enough that I couldn't fix it.
There are some mounts between the back of the reflector and the plastic housing. The first one I had the black ball piece that snaps into the white thing(picture) was broken. The second one nothing was broken but the two pieces where not attached and I couldn't get them reattached. To fix this I drilled a hole in the back of the plastic headlight housing where the screw was holding the white piece on. I removed the screw and screwed in my own bolt and was able to hold it with some washers and a nut so it wouldn't bounce around. With that problem fixed I was finally able to finish the retrofit.
Here are all the pictures, hopefully you all understand what I'm trying to explain. http://imgur.com/a/7KgI6
Now if someone has any questions for me about my experience doing this retrofit just ask
Before I started this project I felt that the hardest parts where going to be taking apart the headlight housing using the oven because I was worried either something was going to melt or I was going to stink the house up, and aligning. When I did this I set the oven to 200*F for about 10 mins. This worked but since I was sealing it back up with TRS rubber butyl, the instructions said set oven to 265*F for seven minutes. I followed them and I didn't ruin the headlight housing or melt any plastic. So if I had to do this again I would just do the 265*F for seven minutes. I also accidentally left one of the HID bulbs in there when I was sealing them up, hopefully I didn't ruin anything but will find out later.
The aftermarket headlight housings that I bought had vertical alignment and horizontal alignment which was awesome. Made it a lot easier to align. This is a link to the ones I bought, and hopefully you don't get any bad ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130661569193?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'm using the morimoto h1 7.0 so to align it I just had to tightened the lock nut a little bit when out to the vehicle move it so it was straight, I than took it back out tightened it so I could barely rotate it, fine tuned it and then put steel stik around it ( I also got it as close vertically and horizontally as I could). After that I put the more liquid JB weld on it which takes about 4-6 hours set time, and 15-24 hours to cure. After this was done I just aligned them a little bit with the knobs.
Those were the two most things I was worried about doing on this and it ended up going just fine. The light output is just CRAZY when I was testing them and am excited to take it for a drive tomorrow night.
There are some mounts between the back of the reflector and the plastic housing. The first one I had the black ball piece that snaps into the white thing(picture) was broken. The second one nothing was broken but the two pieces where not attached and I couldn't get them reattached. To fix this I drilled a hole in the back of the plastic headlight housing where the screw was holding the white piece on. I removed the screw and screwed in my own bolt and was able to hold it with some washers and a nut so it wouldn't bounce around. With that problem fixed I was finally able to finish the retrofit.
Here are all the pictures, hopefully you all understand what I'm trying to explain. http://imgur.com/a/7KgI6
Now if someone has any questions for me about my experience doing this retrofit just ask
Before I started this project I felt that the hardest parts where going to be taking apart the headlight housing using the oven because I was worried either something was going to melt or I was going to stink the house up, and aligning. When I did this I set the oven to 200*F for about 10 mins. This worked but since I was sealing it back up with TRS rubber butyl, the instructions said set oven to 265*F for seven minutes. I followed them and I didn't ruin the headlight housing or melt any plastic. So if I had to do this again I would just do the 265*F for seven minutes. I also accidentally left one of the HID bulbs in there when I was sealing them up, hopefully I didn't ruin anything but will find out later. The aftermarket headlight housings that I bought had vertical alignment and horizontal alignment which was awesome. Made it a lot easier to align. This is a link to the ones I bought, and hopefully you don't get any bad ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130661569193?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'm using the morimoto h1 7.0 so to align it I just had to tightened the lock nut a little bit when out to the vehicle move it so it was straight, I than took it back out tightened it so I could barely rotate it, fine tuned it and then put steel stik around it ( I also got it as close vertically and horizontally as I could). After that I put the more liquid JB weld on it which takes about 4-6 hours set time, and 15-24 hours to cure. After this was done I just aligned them a little bit with the knobs.
Those were the two most things I was worried about doing on this and it ended up going just fine. The light output is just CRAZY when I was testing them and am excited to take it for a drive tomorrow night.
oster200
Member
So I have been noticing this odd thing happening. My radio has static on every FM station, some worse than others. I have found that it only occurs when I have the HID's on. I have looked it up and found people have had the same issue, but I haven't found one that has solved my problem. During the day my radio works fine, but at night I notice when backing out of the driveway that it is static and goes in and out. I turned them off and the radio worked as it should. My first thought is that maybe the ballasts were giving off a frequency that was interfering with the radio. But as I got them kind of hidden away and zip tied ( well the one closest to the radio is hidden away) to the frame I haven't even tried to move it. I have the mini h1 7.0 form morimoto with the relay harness.
For the power source I just come right off the battery and I'm coming off the ground right next to the battery on the frame. All of which are clean. What do you think it is?
For the power source I just come right off the battery and I'm coming off the ground right next to the battery on the frame. All of which are clean. What do you think it is?
oster200
Member
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Mirage
Member
- Feb 23, 2014
- 60
How is your cut off with those lights and leds? I have a similar set and very unimpressed with the cut off.led
Quad beams n bumper led pods
Quad-bumper-roof
I did get better results with HID over LED as far as total output and lack of shadows and hot spots.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
The cutoff is not bad at all, but how did you get HID to work with them? I could not get them not to have a dark spot. I even tried rekeying the H1 bulbs to rotate and it still stayed. I certainly would rather have my HID back than these LED. However the spotting was unacceptable.
I have only used HIDS from venon depot and have not had an issue with radio interference. (I dont have a retrofit, just HID kits)
Just a though and I am sure it has been tried already but have you switched the location of the ground strap to see if that makes a difference?
Just a though and I am sure it has been tried already but have you switched the location of the ground strap to see if that makes a difference?
Mirage
Member
- Feb 23, 2014
- 60
All I did was just installed them and turned them on. I might re-try the LEDs to see if I was missing something on the install with the shadows. Because of the bulbs base size i did have a harder time clipping the retainers in place.
My biggest complaint is the cut off. On both lamps the horizontal line towards the right side of the cutoff turns upwards kind of like someone smirking....I love the look of these lights and i might do retros if it bugs me too much
Blckshdw
Moderator
I think just about everyone I know that bought the first set of off-the-shelf TB projectors has made this complaint.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
It does turn up, but does not bug me personally. I drove mine last night and need to adjust the lights down some I think. Not sure what changed, but they seem to be aimed up higher than I remember. I dont have any non-typical weight in the rear, so not sure why it seems that way except maybe the way the LED shines.
I did hate clipping them in with the base, but they are solid once clipped.
I have pics on here of my HID attempts and the spots left by them. Can you get a pic of the output with your HID?
I did hate clipping them in with the base, but they are solid once clipped.
I have pics on here of my HID attempts and the spots left by them. Can you get a pic of the output with your HID?
Mirage
Member
- Feb 23, 2014
- 60
I don't have any pictures but I will try to take some tonight and post them
oster200
Member
Yeah I have tried switching the grounds, but it doesn't make a noticeable difference. I might try some ferrite choke's on the cables and see if that helps.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Ferrites should go on the HV wires (between ballast and bulb) from what I've read.
I never could get the FM interference from the HID ballasts taken care of on my maxima. I tried ferrite chokes and they did nothing. Run the HIDs off a 12v power supply and there was no interference. Led me to believe the noise was being fed from the power/ground. Car got wrecked before i could try putting a capacitor on the power/ground.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
Mirage
Member
- Feb 23, 2014
- 60
you'll see the cutoff goes up to the right. this is from both lights
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Blckshdw
Moderator
Yeah, that's considered 'normal' for those. one member on the OS took them apart and posted pics. he modded the cutoff shield with razor blades to flatten the area that slopes like that.
Others have gone full retrofit with them.
oster200
Member
I bought some chokes from amazon and I put all ten on since I knew I wasn't going to use them for anything else. A little overkill, but I can now listen to my radio just fine. There are times that it gets a little static but it only last for a couple seconds at the most. I got these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RCYICQ/?tag=gmtnation-20
07TrailyLS
Member
Hey guys. I have been picking out my new retrofit for a few days now. I'm set on the all new D2s series 4s. I also picked out some Iris shrouds and will be painting the inside of the reflectors black like most on here do. I have 9006 morimoto 35w HIDs running now. So I needed to buy the D2s AMP>D2s igniters , no big deal. And I realized I'm going to run bi xenon so I bought 2 high beam 9006 splitters to power the solenoid. I was on my way home from work today and it hit me. How does flipping the solenoid from low beam to high beam actually increase my light output. Does the D2 realize the solenoid has been flipped when I hit the high beam and trigger more power from the amp to heighten the light output? Or am I completely out of the park on how this works? Thanks for the read and the replies guys.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
The shield blockS a portion of the light from being focused through the lens. once it flips down the last bit shines through. the cutoff is essentially a shadow.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Hmm, yeah, you're driving around the parking lot with that one
In bixenon projectors, the shield that gives you the cutoff so your output doesn't scatter everywhere and blind other drivers, has a small movable section in the center. When you trigger the solenoid, it pulls the cutoff shield down. When that additional section allows light to pass through the projector lens, while it's lower in reality, the output is higher, which gives you the additional light in the center of the cutoff.
07TrailyLS
Member
Gotcha. Haven't seen a projector in person yet so I wasn't too sure. But thanks for clarifying guys!!!
07TrailyLS
Member
I guess I'll post where I'm at. I just finished driver side this morning. About 8 hours wrapped up in it. D2s 4.0. Apollo 3 shroud and a lot of trimming. 
07TrailyLS
Member
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
I like that you did the step up to the right. I couldn't decide if I liked it like that or straight better so I left it straight. Nice job.
07TrailyLS
Member
Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I'm trying to do retrofits for the guys over on TBSS owners since you know, money flies pretty far on that site, but it seems 1 or 2 guys beat me to it.
There was a guy on ORTB who was gonna do mine, maybe i'll just hit you up instead when my money isn't tied up. I like how your retro is just simple & black. Nothing chrome (minus turn signal for obvious reasons), I hate chrome.
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$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Do you have a write up on how you did yours cause it's gorgeous! I've been quite interested in a retrofit for quite a while, but funds haven't been able to get me into the project
