I finally decided to order some LED for the Envoy. I hope the brand is good and not bad. There is just so many different T10 and 212-2 options that it hard to pick.
Here is is what I ordered:
Front:
Back:
Yea, that is why it was so hard to decided. There is just too many brand and so many mixed reviews on all the brands that it was giving me a headache ever since thinking of putting LEDs into the interior lights. The other brands that I was looking at was JDM ASTAR and Jtech for the front and Cutequeen for back one.Never heard of those brands, but new ones pop up all the time. Make sure to post pics once you get them installed.
I have a box of 50 of those STILL sitting on my coffee table from when I bought them in November to redo all of mine. Dreading doing the headlight switch and front door modules again.
I think you're the first person I've seen that desoldered the headlight switch circuit board from the face plate.
Ahh, yeah I took the nut off of the knob to remove the whole assembly, didn't wanna mess with unsoldering, or soldering the ribbon. So just pulled my knob off, and there is a nut that threads on to the body to keep it in the face plate.
Considering the title of this thread, you SHOULD be switching to LEDs. Just sayin 
ill go pull them out and also check my eBay history. Ill report back in a few mins Thanks!
i googled srck vs ck bulb and found a picture... My bulb appears to be CK.. I have after market alteeza tail lights... So I'm thinking if i could modify the bulb that would work better i would guess? Thanks for the help i appreciate it!
Yes you are correct. No issue with stock halogens. My bulbs are definitely srck as well...Diodes in series in the circuit will block back feeding, not resistors.
So with your stock park/brake bulbs, there's no issue, but when you put the LEDs in, then the turn signals bleed into the park/brake lights, as well as the opposite side parking light in the front?
If I'm understanding you right, then the bulbs could be faulty. You bought SRCK ones right?
Messing with the multi meter it would appear after all that they are ck. Ill buy a new pair and see how it goes! Thanks again!
I think I posted that in the full size section... I think... since this is the GMT360 section. Maybe I posted it in here. I don't remember. *edit* I have finished pics, no "in progress" pics showing the excessive hot glue usage!
Good call, I do have a hot glue gun around here somewhere. Wish I woulda thought of that.
Time to revive this dead thread! After retrofitting the 4.7mm SMD LEDs into all of my dash modules, I really screwed up my HVAC controller somehow. Not sure if I scorched some traces, or lifted some pads or something, but for whatever reason, the LEDs under the dials would not light up in the truck, and on the test bench, when maxed out at 15.2V, they'd only light up at about half brightness.
Jumpers weren't consistently working, so I opted for plan C. I ordered these LED strip connector adapters. Tinned the pads with solder, for quick and easy connections.
Cut up and stripped some wire to reach the PCBs where I wanted them, and used the slider LEDs (which worked properly) as the power sources.
Soldered in the LEDs and ran a quick test @ 7V.
Wired up the to ther side, and stuck the PCBs to the board using double sided tape.
One thing to note, you may need to use electrical tape if you decide to try this route. The double sided tape on the top, driver's side, refuses to stick to the board, so the top LED won't stay put, causing a 'not so hot' spot behind the numbers.
