LED Mod Thread

Theblackarrow

Member
Feb 1, 2015
95
Mounce said:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301226783358&alt=web


Count how many bulbs you have. Not sure that you'd wanna put these in every socket because it'd be like the sun was inside when you opened the doors lol.


-that's the ones I bought, same as listed above, just a different quantity and come with festoon adapters. You could probably find a festoon adapter cheap on Ebay if you wanna go with the 10 listed above. You'll need one festoon adapter and the rest of your bulbs will be 194/t10 adapters that come with the panels.
ya but still it will only be the sun when you open a door or push the buttons but it's really very bright and it will be really helpful when finding your lost keys under chairs or putting your grocery in the back :biggrin:

The only concern now is the comment from damanns67 last page about taking out the reflectors bowls which i am afraid to damage LOL
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
The reflectors can probably stay in place with the panels. Even if you have to take them out they won't be damaged and you can pop them right back in when needed if you sell the vehicle. The reflectors won't effect the panels output at all though because the panel would completely cover the reflector.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I threw those reflectors away. Good thing about never selling the truck lol.
 
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mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Midnyteryder196 said:
Thanks Kyle. I don't think I could go any color but white for the domes, I like to be able to see things when I drop em lol
I'm not for sure how many you would need to do whole interior. I only did behind the front seats since they are so bright.

These are the ones I bought, but to use them in the cargo, you would need the festoon adapter.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=291177489517&alt=web

They only come with the adapters on the right, I already had the festoon adapter on the left from my previous panels.
attachicon.gif
0225150853.jpg

Mounce said:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301226783358&alt=web


Count how many bulbs you have. Not sure that you'd wanna put these in every socket because it'd be like the sun was inside when you opened the doors lol.


-that's the ones I bought, same as listed above, just a different quantity and come with festoon adapters. You could probably find a festoon adapter cheap on Ebay if you wanna go with the 10 listed above. You'll need one festoon adapter and the rest of your bulbs will be 194/t10 adapters that come with the panels.

Gents - these panels fit without any cutting? So just add the specific adapter, plug it in and stuff the board into the lamp? I'm going through the Autosaver88 store looking for red ones now.
 
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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
mcsteven said:
Gents - these panels fit without any cutting? So just add the specific adapter, plug it in and stuff the board into the lamp? I'm going through the Autosaver88 store looking for red ones now.
Idk if they'd they have red 5630 panels, never seen them before. I know you could find some red 5050 panels though.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Ya'll have bright ass interiors lol
 
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mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
I sent a note to the seller. On the pages it shows all the colors, but I don't see them in the kits.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
SnowBlazer said:
I've had the green & white domes and its not dark at all just VERY green [emoji3]
We were talking about the 5630 panels, not the 5050 194's.




Hopefully they have them Marc. Btw, those panels got from one side of the country to (almost) the other side of the country and into my mail box in about three days. You'd probably get them in 2. Quickest shipping on a Ebay item I've ever had.
 
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Sib

Member
Sep 6, 2014
3,446
So if I do the led strip for some DRLs do I need to get two add-a-fuses and crimp positive wire in and ground the negative or can I crimp both positive wires in one add-a-fuse and then ground the negatives?
 
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Blckshdw

Original poster
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,747
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Sib said:
So if I do the led strip for some DRLs do I need to get two add-a-fuses and crimp positive wire in and ground the negative or can I crimp both positive wires in one add-a-fuse and then ground the negatives?
You can run both strips off 1 add-a-fuse. When I did the eyebrows, I was running both of them off a single 2A fuse.
 
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Sib

Member
Sep 6, 2014
3,446
Blckshdw said:
You can run both strips off 1 add-a-fuse. When I did the eyebrows, I was running both of them off a single 2A fuse.
Nice. Easy enough. Thanks. [emoji106]
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Mounce said:
We were talking about the 5630 panels, not the 5050 194's.




Hopefully they have them Marc. Btw, those panels got from one side of the country to (almost) the other side of the country and into my mail box in about three days. You'd probably get them in 2. Quickest shipping on a Ebay item I've ever had.
They said they don't carry the red ones. I have found some of the red but they are sold individually and are about four dollars each. I'm going to contact them and see if they will combine shipping. They want two dollars for shipping out of Hong Kong. I'm going to look in a few more places. I have yet to check Amazon.
 
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CaptainKD

Member
Jan 13, 2012
31,990
Eastern NC
I failed at installing LEDs in the HVAC control. :sadcry:

View attachment 66032

Is there a polarity diagram? I'm not sure I have the LEDs in correctly. Some are on and some are off. If I reverse the + & - then other lights will turn off or on. There's a chance I could be imagining this though.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
CaptainKD said:
I failed at installing LEDs in the HVAC control. :sadcry:

attachicon.gif
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425271701.642306.jpg

Is there a polarity diagram? I'm not sure I have the LEDs in correctly. Some are on and some are off. If I reverse the + & - then other lights will turn off or on. There's a chance I could be imagining this though.
I think I remember seeing the polarities waaaay back in the beginnings of the LED thread iirc
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
CaptainKD said:
I checked where the others are but couldn't locate the manual HVAC one.
TV probably has it then brother
 
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Aarkon

Member
Nov 6, 2013
5,607
Blckshdw said:
Finally got around to doing a lil documentation of the module polarities yesterday. First up are the instrument clusters, there are a few slight differences between the DIC and non DIC clusters. Of the 4 contact pads per stock bulb, only 2 of them are used. I put the + sign in the corner where the positive pad is, since there isn't one side or the other like all other modules.

Polarity-DICCluster.jpg


Polarity-NonDICCluster.jpg



Driver and passenger door modules. Since I have an LS with the basic options, I don't know if the other trim level modules use the same light source or have additional bulb sockets.

Polarity-LSDDM.jpg


Polarity-LSPDM.jpg



Rear Wiper Switch

Polarity-RearWiperSwitch.jpg



Manual HVAC

Polarity-ManualHVAC.jpg



Headlight switch. I did notice the circuit board is stamped for GMT370s, so there may be differences with the short wheel base versions. I know some have a light under the dimmer knob.

Polarity-HeadlampSwitch.jpg
Here cap this should help if it was auto I have pics of both of mine but never got around to doing old blues hvacc yet
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Aarkon said:
Here cap this should help if it was auto I have pics of both of mine but never got around to doing old blues hvacc yet
I knew it was in here
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584

Blckshdw

Original poster
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,747
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I took down my polarity map of the manual HVAC control because some members pointed out that their's didn't match up to mine, while others did. Didn't want to be the reason people fried traces on their circuit board, and had to run jumper wires.

We did find out later that their are 2 (at least) different circuit board layouts for the manual setups, but the people that had the issues with my map haven't been back to tell us which one they have.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Can use a DMM to test your particular control to find which is positive/negative :twocents:
 
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mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Got my red LEDs (24 SMD 5630s) as well as the white 194s a week ago. Got a chance to install stuff today. I started by testing the 194s. Easy access to the cornering lamps, so I used one of those sockets. Not one worked. I swapped the sides, nothing. I swore up one side and down the other. Called a technically inclined friend to commiserate (half the order was for him) and he says, "Did you turn on your headlights? The cornering lamps don't come on if it's not dark out." I was swearing in my head by then. Went back, they all work. Tested the SMD panels next. They all work and are freakin' bright. I couldn't get them to stay so I used a wire tie around the reflector. Zipped those, plugged in the pigtail, set the lamp in place, presto. I've got the same item as others have mentioned - "low power mode" but if I hit the other light or open the mirror light, they go to full brightness. Something else about them as if you turn it off, then back on, they're still full brightness. It takes a few minutes for them to "reset" back to low power.
 
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mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Since I figured most folks will know what it looks like lit up with color, I haven't gotten images yet of that. I also haven't gotten under the car to do the reverse lights - probably tomorrow.

Here's 2 shots comparing the regular bulb with the LED panel.

My Minion covers up my GPS so it is sort of hidden.
IMG_2680.jpg
IMG_2681.jpg
 

Trkdrvremt

Member
Oct 22, 2014
351
NJ
Hey guys quick question... When doing led in series the resistor should be in front or on thr positive side of the lights correct? Only asking because I was messing with an led calculator and it shows the resistor at the end or negative side.image.jpg
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
I got under the truck yesterday to do the backup lights. I had alreay replaced the cornering lamps, and wasn't thrilled with them. I have the "White 3156 3157 27 5050 SMD LED Turn Signal Rear Light Brake Bulb Lamp." Not really impressed. I like them being more white than the tungsten bulbs, but it seems to me that they don't throw out that many more lumens. Probably just my perception. I was underneath and with one arm to get up or down really, I wasn't thinking about doing the side by side comparison.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Noticed one of my bulbs acting funny Sunday then saw that it completely went out and it didn't work at all yesterday so I pulled it out this morning...

uploadfromtaptalk1427889785431.jpg
Hmm...that shouldn't have came loose like that...

uploadfromtaptalk1427889819500.jpg
Oh, there's the problem...:no:

Already messaged the seller to try out their "one year warranty" so we'll see how this goes...

-tapa strikes again...doubling pics
 

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07TrailyLS

Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
Hi guys.. New to soldering, LEDs and resistors. But not new to electrical and wiring. Basically I just want to replace the smd's in the door and cluster with the 5mm flat top 5000mcd LEDs ... I can't figure out how to use this resistor calculator. If someone could throw out a quick tutorial that'd be great. I searched the forum a bit but didn't really see anything thanks guys
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
There's only a few things that use smd's in the cluster, mainly warning lights. Everything else are little incandescent (or halogen, can't remember what they're classified as) bulbs and I'm pretty sure the door switches use regular bulbs too.


-for the calculator, pick out some LEDs first then look at the listing and find their forward voltage(vf) and power rating (I think that's what it's called, it'll be measured in mA's) then plug those two numbers into the calculator then the other piece of info you need is what the input from the vehicle will be and put that as 14.5 or 15 volts to give yourself some insurance for voltage spikes.
 

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