Blckshdw said:Very interested to see how that plays out. Still have my stock flasher, so if that works, one of my down-the-road-when-I-have-money-to-experiment mods may work without load resistors (Not keen on those either)
kardain said:Here's the pic of the trace to cut (circled in red)... my computer was giving me fits so after a stern lecture... It's reversible with just a dab of solder on the cut section to re-complete the trace.
ConeKilrAutoX said:I did led mod and worked fine followed diagrams etc...service 4wd light is on but the 4wd switch works perfect and car switches to all 4wd/2wd settings fine? Also...my fog light switch now controls whether my leds are on or off haha wtf is going on
Blckshdw said:WTH did you do!!!!
Blckshdw said:Headlight switch. I did notice the circuit board is stamped for GMT370s, so there may be differences with the short wheel base versions. I know some have a light under the dimmer knob.
STLtrailbSS said:IDk what the deal is everything was working great and now my interior dash lights wont come on, my headlight switch its fully functional with, headlights on off fog lights and dome override all work but no dash lights and fully turning the dimmer still turns on the domes everything looks good.
STLtrailbSS said:IDk what the deal is everything was working great and now my interior dash lights wont come on, my headlight switch its fully functional with, headlights on off fog lights and dome override all work but no dash lights and fully turning the dimmer still turns on the domes everything looks good.
STLtrailbSS said:Im going to have to recheck everything I'm blowing fuses like the 4th of July over here
Blckshdw said:I've gotten a number of requests on how to make a polarity changer for the corner switchbacks, so here's the scoop. Someone with an Envoy will have to clarify for me, but your 194 corner bulbs don't flash do they?
Required Parts:
2 x DPDT mini relays
6 x 12V diodes
Optional Parts:
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT2426
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT1324
Here's a mock up of the end result I came up with. I ran the ground connection to the fender grounds on each side. The OEM connectors are only required if you want to make this plug and play, but they are pricey. You could also cut the turn signal and parking wires, and splice the polarity switcher in.
I will say, if you go plug and play, things will be a bit more crowded around the top corner of the headlight, so don't skimp on the wiring going into/out of the relay. You'll need to have enough wire to allow the changer to be folded over and tucked away. I used 'liquid tape' to weatherproof it, but you could wrap it with electrical tape, cover it with silicone, or whatever else you've got on hand.
fr34kout said:Ok Carlton trying to make sure I understand the polarity switcher.
So first off, the 2 prongs off by themselves to the far left are #1 and #16?
As far as the wiring, #1 and #4 to ground with diodes, #6 and #9 is yellow input so that would be the turn signal wire, with #8 and #11 being white input so that's parking light wire? And I tap these both from the 3157 bulb turn signal correct?
Then #16 and #13 has a diode between them, and these are turn signal and parking wire so these get connected to the 194 bulb? Is that correct or am I horribly off lol
fr34kout said:Alright I think I got it now, I'll get to it some time this week. Doing a diff flush on a 93 explorer, trans flush on a 2000 z28, and swapping in a new subframe on my 95 saturn lol. Spring break ftw, I'll find some time in there to wire up one of these relays and see if I can get it working correctly. Thanks for the quick and helpful responses
STLtrailbSS said:Ok So im wanting to do a full led swap but right now im focusing on a bulb for reverse lights that will be BRIGHT i need to see through 5% tint on the hatch.
What do ya think
Amazon.com: Oracle Lighting 3157SPIDER Cool White 30 LED 3157 Spider SMD Bulb: Automotive
STLtrailbSS said:Ok So im wanting to do a full led swap but right now im focusing on a bulb for reverse lights that will be BRIGHT i need to see through 5% tint on the hatch.
What do ya think
Amazon.com: Oracle Lighting 3157SPIDER Cool White 30 LED 3157 Spider SMD Bulb: Automotive
jham said:
fireman4215 said:Which light strip did you use? Where did you run your wires?
fr34kout said:Carlton, I need your help again lol.
Wired up 1 relay today to try to get it to work. Pins 1 & 4 have diodes, then both are connected to ground. Pin 16 for Turn Signal went to the Brown Wire hanging off the bulb, and pin 13 for Parking Signal went to the Blue Wire hanging off the bulb. Now I'm working on the driver side if that makes a difference for the wiring colors of wires.
Now I started off by hooking up pins 6 & 9 to the brown wire coming from the fuse box, and pins 8 & 11 to the blue wire coming from the fuse box. When I did this I couldn't get my parking lights to turn on, and my turn signal was flashing white. Went and switched the bulb and got the bulb to flash orange. Went to the rear fusebox and changed the 10 amp fuse for the parking lights, then started the car up again. Blew the fuse again so I tried to switch the wire for pins 6 & 9 with the wire for pins 8 & 11 and vice versa (basically switched the input wires) and replaced the fuse. This time the turn signal fuse blew, so I replaced that one. Now I have my running lights working with the white LED lit up, but when I go to turn on the turn signal it just lights up a slightly brighter white. What did I do wrong ?
I'll resummarize wires to make it easier to understand. As it sits now, 1 & 4 diode then to ground. 6 & 9 Blue from fuse box. 8 & 11 Brown from fuse box. 13 Blue wire to bulb. 16 Brown wire to bulb. Diode between 16 and 13.
fireman4215 said:Put some LED grill lights on tonight. Got the idea from DJones.
hardly noticeable if ya ask me.Short Bus said:What do the LEDs look like when not hooked up and how are they mounted?
Blckshdw said:The fuse box is not my version of this equation, so I think that's where your problem is. You're essentially backfeeding the signal from the fuse box, back into itself from the turn signal/parking light wiring up front if I'm understanding what you did correctly. That's why your fuses are blowing. Everything is done at the front of the truck. 1 & 4 are grounded, so you have that right. 16 gets the turn signal feed from the brown wire, so also correct. 13 gets the parking signal from the blue wire, also correct. Those are the inputs for the relay to function.
6 & 9 are output to the yellow (turn signal) inputs of the 194 switchback, and 8 & 11 are output to the white (parking signal) input of the 194 switchback, not the fuse box. What will happen is, when one signal comes on, the other will act as a ground, completing the circuit, with the turn signal taking priority over the parking signal when both are to be on at the same time. Hope that makes more sense now.
fr34kout said:Ok I tried again today doing exactly like you said. 1 & 4 grounded with diodes, 16 is getting the brown turn signal wire, 13 is getting the blue parking signal wire with a diode between them. 6 & 9 go to one input on the bulb, 8 & 11 going to the other input on the bulb.
Parking lights are working on all bulbs except the LED, when I turn on the left turn signal it doesn't blink it just stays a steady left turn with the bulb still not lighting up. Also the diode between 16 & 13 is getting HOT as hell, burned through some insulation on the wires. What did I do wrong now >.>