LED Mod Thread

[fireman4215]

I started by locating the wires in the door that controlled the side marker. Green and white wires

Then I ran them through the door and into the cabin. (no pics of my pathway)
I had to drill a small hole in my floor but i got a rubber gromit to put in it.

I ran the wire around the side of the engine bay.

Then tied into the front side marker.

If ya have any more questions just ask Ill help anyway I can.

 

[bigytwotone]

This one in the thurd from the left ??View attachment 18429

 

[fireman4215]

Yes sir 3rd from the left

 

[YOUNG]

Finally did my dome/map lights with leds!
search "36 smd led" on ebay

stock or store bought lights.

HOLY WIRE!- i tucked it in behind the reflector.

stock vs New

New ones!

New lights in the front, Stock lights above second row.

Pictures of them at night. (cameras dont show how bright leds really are)

Window is up, Stock Window Tint.

Through the front windshield

 

[TrailBlazn420]

I just added the load resistors to the rear of the truck, and now I'm getting no FRONT parking lights. My turn signals work fine, but when I put the headlights on, ONLY the head lights and tail lights come on, I get no parking lights up front. I tied in to the BLUE next to BROWN on each of the rear tail light harnesses for the positive and tied the grounds to the black bolt that is visible when you open the rear hatch. No hyperflash on the turn signals, but no parking lights. If you need more info to help me, just let me know!

P.S.: Also (and this is why I usually NEVER do two mods at once) I'm trying to install LED running lights (eyebrow-type) and I'm tapping into the #22 fuse in the front fuse box, and they aren't lighting up.

 

[Blckshdw]

I just added the load resistors to the rear of the truck, and now I'm getting no FRONT parking lights. My turn signals work fine, but when I put the headlights on, ONLY the head lights and tail lights come on, I get no parking lights up front. I tied in to the BLUE next to BROWN on each of the rear tail light harnesses for the positive and tied the grounds to the black bolt that is visible when you open the rear hatch. No hyperflash on the turn signals, but no parking lights. If you need more info to help me, just let me know!

Did you check fuse #37 in the rear block? (front parking lights)

P.S.: Also (and this is why I usually NEVER do two mods at once) I'm trying to install LED running lights (eyebrow-type) and I'm tapping into the #22 fuse in the front fuse box, and they aren't lighting up.

You told us where you tapped power, but where did you ground them to? How did you tap in for power? Did you get an add-a-fuse, or wrap the wire around one of the fuse legs? Did you check for voltage with a meter?

 

[TrailBlazn420]

Did you check fuse #37 in the rear block? (front parking lights)

You told us where you tapped power, but where did you ground them to? How did you tap in for power? Did you get an add-a-fuse, or wrap the wire around one of the fuse legs? Did you check for voltage with a meter?

Fuse #37 was blown, and keeps blowing when I turn on the parking lights. Will it blow a fuse if I have the LED bulbs in my front turn signals reversed in their polarity? FIXED: Bulb was in the wrong way, turned it around and it works fine!

I used a fuse tap to the positive on the eyebrow lights and used a wire tap to a wire that was attached to a bolt near the fuse block. I assumed (I know, bad idea) it was a ground, because it's a wire attached to a bolt that is attached to the inside of the fender/engine compartment. FIXED: My connections where I tied the two positives together was bad. Eyebrow lights work now!!!

LED running lights and LED parking lights now BOTH working fine! I will throw some pics up once it gets dark.

I appreciate the info Carlton! I'll let you know what's up, and post some pics once I get things working.

 

[TrailBlazn420]

Finally got everything working like it should! Thank you to everyone for your help!

 

[kjkim93]

Well i switched most of my lights to led. But i have a question. Can i change the side markers on the mirrors to white led? Its the clear lens.

 

[kardain]

Well i switched most of my lights to led. But i have a question. Can i change the side markers on the mirrors to white led? Its the clear lens.

You sure can.

 

[kjkim93]

You sure can.

Wouldnt there be any hyper flash?

 

[Blckshdw]

Wouldnt there be any hyper flash?

No, not in the mirrors. The dual function bulbs (main park/turns in the head and tail lights) are the ones that would hyperflash without load resistors or an LED flasher module swap.

 

[Boricua SS]

Ok, dummy/noob question here... I received my load equalizers for hyperflash... they just have 2 wires (one set for each equalizer) with one wire coming outta one end, and one out the other... does it matter which side I tie to power (blue wire on the rear harness) and which one I put to ground?

 

[Blckshdw]

Nope, it's just an oversized resistor. It's not polarized.

 

[Sparky]

That's because they are capable of dissipating in excess of 40 watts each, while most resistors don't go above 1 watt.

 

[Boricua SS]

im adding this here and the 3157 reverse light thread...

i have a spare set of the same style lights (24 LED) as others have used for their reverse lights, from V-Leds that i bought years ago for my turn signals (didnt know about load equalizers back then, so i junked them and went back to stock)... so since im in the hunt for the complete exterior LED conversion, i tested these one more time, but for strictly light output purposes... and while these work great for reverse lights... they are absolutely GARBAGE ffor turns and/or brake lights... they did light up the housing.. but no where near as bright as stock bulbs (i left the drivers side turn signal in, and swapped the passanger to do my comparison).. also my tails are tinted.. so that didnt help either.. but i was not impressed.. and im glad i did this, so i didnt buy the same kind for my brake lights... heres a pic of the lights im talkin about... IMOl stay away from these for your turn signals and brakke lights...

also, what do you guys suggest for a good brake light/turn signal.. smd, or standard like in the pic? and how many... the pic is 24 leds, do you think a same style led bulb but with 45 leds would be twice as briight as the 24 leds?

 

[Blckshdw]

also, what do you guys suggest for a good brake light/turn signal.. smd, or standard like in the pic? and how many... the pic is 24 leds, do you think a same style led bulb but with 45 leds would be twice as briight as the 24 leds?

SMD all the way. Just from looking at the bulbs you have there, those are probably 3mm LEDs, usually not all that bright compared the the available alternatives. I think someone else said they had that same bulb, and was equally as disappointed in it.

 

[Sparky]

That, and also they aren't multi-directional.

 

[Boricua SS]

SMD all the way. Just from looking at the bulbs you have there, those are probably 3mm LEDs, usually not all that bright compared the the available alternatives. I think someone else said they had that same bulb, and was equally as disappointed in it.

Yea, 3mm just like my interior soldered ones... so how about a good sized smd then? Something over 40 per bulb? I don't want to get too long of a bulb (96-108 smd) and I think that would look stupid and be too close to the front of the lens, plus prices start getting up there for the bigger bulbs.. I like the 41-68 range...kinda like switchbacks...

 

[Blckshdw]

Most of the common corn cob style bulbs use 3mm SMDs, my 60 LED switchbacks do, and you've seen how bright those are. You can find others that use the 5050 (5mm) ones, which are usually brighter, and a lil more pricey.

 

[Boricua SS]

Most of the common corn cob style bulbs use 3mm SMDs, my 60 LED switchbacks do, and you've seen how bright those are. You can find others that use the 5050 (5mm) ones, which are usually brighter, and a lil more pricey.

yea i do remember your switchbacks... ahh.. decisions, decisions

 

[Blckshdw]

I've gotten a number of requests on how to make a polarity changer for the corner switchbacks, so here's the scoop. Someone with an Envoy will have to clarify for me, but your 194 corner bulbs don't flash do they?

Required Parts:
2 x DPDT mini relays
6 x 12V diodes

Optional Parts:
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT2426
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT1324

Here's a mock up of the end result I came up with. I ran the ground connection to the fender grounds on each side. The OEM connectors are only required if you want to make this plug and play, but they are pricey. You could also cut the turn signal and parking wires, and splice the polarity switcher in.

I will say, if you go plug and play, things will be a bit more crowded around the top corner of the headlight, so don't skimp on the wiring going into/out of the relay. You'll need to have enough wire to allow the changer to be folded over and tucked away. I used 'liquid tape' to weatherproof it, but you could wrap it with electrical tape, cover it with silicone, or whatever else you've got on hand.

 

[fr34kout]

Thanks for then writeup, just went and looked at my headlights. With the blinker / hazards on both the 3157 turn signal bulb as well as the small 194 bulb both flash

 

[SBUBandit]

I've gotten a number of requests on how to make a polarity changer for the corner switchbacks, so here's the scoop. Someone with an Envoy will have to clarify for me, but your 194 corner bulbs don't flash do they?

Required Parts:
2 x DPDT mini relays
6 x 12V diodes

Optional Parts:
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT2426
2 x AC Delco Connectors: PT1324

Here's a mock up of the end result I came up with. I ran the ground connection to the fender grounds on each side. The OEM connectors are only required if you want to make this plug and play, but they are pricey. You could also cut the turn signal and parking wires, and splice the polarity switcher in.

I will say, if you go plug and play, things will be a bit more crowded around the top corner of the headlight, so don't skimp on the wiring going into/out of the relay. You'll need to have enough wire to allow the changer to be folded over and tucked away. I used 'liquid tape' to weatherproof it, but you could wrap it with electrical tape, cover it with silicone, or whatever else you've got on hand.

Maybe its just me or its just that its Monday, but I don't get it. I'll have to go out and look at the wiring on the truck and look into it closer

 

[Blckshdw]

Maybe its just me or its just that its Monday, but I don't get it. I'll have to go out and look at the wiring on the truck and look into it closer

If you want to elaborate on which part you don't get, I'd be happy to try and explain it a lil better.

 

[SBUBandit]

If you want to elaborate on which part you don't get, I'd be happy to try and explain it a lil better.

Looking at the parts list, I see the OEM connectors (big black plugs on each end in the pic) and the DPDT mini relay, which would be the black box in the middle. I also see 2 12V diodes per side. So I guess what is throwing me off is what I can't see through the liquid tape. Its been a while since I had to read electrical diagrams, but if I'm reading this right, looks like the diodes must go from 1 to ground, 4 to ground, and 16 to 13 correct? Guess in the process of typing it up I'm sort of figuring it out.

Might have to get a pair of the switchbacks so I can try this soon. Ought to be a good time, me and the soldering gun are not friends. I'm thinking a trip to the junkyard with some wire cutters would save some money on the OEM connectors to make it plug and play.

 

[Blckshdw]

Looking at the parts list, I see the OEM connectors (big black plugs on each end in the pic) and the DPDT mini relay, which would be the black box in the middle. I also see 3 12V diodes per side. So I guess what is throwing me off is what I can't see through the liquid tape. Its been a while since I had to read electrical diagrams, but if I'm reading this right, looks like the diodes must go from 1 to ground, 4 to ground, and 16 to 13 correct? Guess in the process of typing it up I'm sort of figuring it out.

Might have to get a pair of the switchbacks so I can try this soon. Ought to be a good time, me and the soldering gun are not friends. I'm thinking a trip to the junkyard with some wire cutters would save some money on the OEM connectors to make it plug and play.

Sounds like you understand everything just fine to me

The connectors are also used for other items under the hood, like the ignition coils and a few other 2 wire connections. The couple of junkyards I've hit, those are always snipped off Hope you have better luck.

 

[SBUBandit]

Sounds like you understand everything just fine to me

The connectors are also used for other items under the hood, like the ignition coils and a few other 2 wire connections. The couple of junkyards I've hit, those are always snipped off :sad: Hope you have better luck.

Any reason I wouldn't be able to use the larger plug-in style DPDT relays? I'd kinda like to use a small plastic box and put the socket inside it, wired up and just plug the relay into it. Would take a little longer wires, but I could avoid soldering and if the relay ever crapped out, I could just unplug it and plug in another one. I could either use one small box on each side or one larger one with two relay sockets in it and run it to both corners. Let me knoe if see any issues with that.

 

[Blckshdw]

As long as you can provide the functionality, it would work. You'd just have to accommodate for the size, with placement, which it sounds like you have planned out. I went with these, because I needed some for other stuff, and I got a good cheap price on a bulk order.

 

[SBUBandit]

As long as you can provide the functionality, it would work. You'd just have to accommodate for the size, with placement, which it sounds like you have planned out. I went with these, because I needed some for other stuff, and I got a good cheap price on a bulk order.

Thanks for the help clearing it up. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I actually get around to doing this. Now I gotta go sell some stuff on ebay/craigslist so I can justify spending more money on truck toys to the boss.

Here's kinda along the lines of what I was thinking of using. Maybe not this exact one, but something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coil-Voltage-DC-12V-8-Pin-DPDT-Electrical-Relay-HH52P-/220966055252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33729a6d54#ht_1656wt_1185

 

[Blckshdw]

Thanks for the help clearing it up. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I actually get around to doing this. Now I gotta go sell some stuff on ebay/craigslist so I can justify spending more money on truck toys to the boss.

Here's kinda along the lines of what I was thinking of using. Maybe not this exact one, but something like this.

[EBAY]220966055252[/EBAY]

That thing is freaking HUGE!!! I hope you're able to find one that's a lil more reasonable in size for this application.

You do make a good point about ease of relay replacement. In my original design, I only had 2 diodes, and things worked fine for a couple weeks. Then I started getting a backfeeding issue, so when I turned on a turn signal, BOTH sides would flash Luckily the liquid tape tears and peels off without too much hassle and doesn't damage anything beneath it.

 

[SBUBandit]

That thing is freaking HUGE!!! I hope you're able to find one that's a lil more reasonable in size for this application.

You do make a good point about ease of relay replacement. In my original design, I only had 2 diodes, and things worked fine for a couple weeks. Then I started getting a backfeeding issue, so when I turned on a turn signal, BOTH sides would flash Luckily the liquid tape tears and peels off without too much hassle and doesn't damage anything beneath it.

I agree, its a bit of a monster. Like I said, not definite on that exact one yet, but I do like the screw down terminals and the replaceable relay. Haven't seen very many better options yet. Radioshack has one pretty similar on their site, but again, still pretty massive. If anyone has a better idea along this general line I'm open to suggestions

 

[Sparky]

I've seen relay sockets that while you still have to solder the wires to the relay socket, the relay simply plugs into the socket. A ton smaller too.

 

[SBUBandit]

I've seen relay sockets that while you still have to solder the wires to the relay socket, the relay simply plugs into the socket. A ton smaller too.

That might be something i would consider.

 

[kjkim93]

I'm sorry if this sounds dumb. But I really want switchback for the front? would i need the Load resistors to make them work? Do i just splice them into the OEM harness?

 

[Blckshdw]

I'm sorry if this sounds dumb. But I really want switchback for the front? would i need the Load resistors to make them work? Do i just splice them into the OEM harness?

Yes, and yes. Unless you opt for the LED flasher module, which is plug and play. (see post #56 for a pic)

 

[kardain]

Yes, and yes. Unless you opt for the LED flasher module, which is plug and play. (see post #56 for a pic)

My understanding of the lm487 is that it only works properly if front or rear is changed to LED 3x57 bulbs, not both (at least the four I've obtained from NAPA work this way... Exchanged the first three as "faulty"). Does the rockauto one back on post 56 happen to work for both?

 

[Blckshdw]

My understanding of the lm487 is that it only works properly if front or rear is changed to LED 3x57 bulbs, not both (at least the four I've obtained from NAPA work this way... Exchanged the first three as "faulty"). Does the rockauto one back on post 56 happen to work for both?

Unfortunately, because I have the Depo tails (built in load resistors) I can't confirm that. I just went back to the main thread on the OS, and after reading that, it still looks inconclusive. Since you exchanged your first 3 modules, do you still have the fourth? Did you put stock bulbs back in the front or rear to confirm that's the case? None of the other GMTN members around here are running LED bulbs, or I'd try to do a swap with them and test it out.

 

[kardain]

Unfortunately, because I have the Depo tails (built in load resistors) I can't confirm that. I just went back to the main thread on the OS, and after reading that, it still looks inconclusive. Since you exchanged your first 3 modules, do you still have the fourth? Did you put stock bulbs back in the front or rear to confirm that's the case? None of the other GMTN members around here are running LED bulbs, or I'd try to do a swap with them and test it out.

Oh yeah, I've done the troubleshooting...

The fourth is in mine now and hyperflashes without a 6 ohm resistor or swapping in the stock bulbs in either the front or rear, the stock flasher hyperflashes without a 3 ohm or swapping all turn bulbs back to stock.

 

[kardain]

I was just thinking... it sounds like the flasher module just doesn't have enough resistance to do the job for all 4, and needs some added to it.

Think I figured out the stock flasher enough to go resistorless and not have to get a new flasher (I dislike load resistors if you haven't figured it out by now).... It should just be as simple as cutting the trace on pin 7 of the u643b chip (the bulb out sensor pin). I'll test in about an hour when I go to lunch break. Since I know it hyperflashes on my vehicles, if it doesn't then I cut the right trace (the chip doesn't have a pin 1 marker for reference).