Mine just popped off with a little pressure using a small flat head screw driver. There is a clip/latch on the top center of the lens. Just apply a little pressure to each side and it will pop right off.bUAkronG said:
The stock bulbs on my mirror turn signals are 194s. You can replace them with a 194 (T10) LEDs. I would recommend going with TXBlazer's LED mirror inserts. He has a thread started, you should check them out.mcsteven said:
I was thinking about that. Not sure. When I was considering it, I checked Youtube, etc. and found this:dmanns67 said:
$50 is a good deal IMO. They look much better and are way brighter than a single 194. Very easy install and fit perfectly. The only thing I had to modify was the dust shield cap that goes into the end of the lens. I had to use a dremel to cut it back so it would fit around the insert. There are some guys that run theirs without the dust shield, but with the winters around here, I did not want to chance it.mcsteven said:
I agree it's a good price and I've seen them on Youtube and agree they look great. I was just thinking of something else that I'll have to research a little. Thinking (and if BlckShdw or TXBlazer or anyone else has an idea don't hesitate to post it) of a switchback or type of LED that would replace a dual filament bulb where I could have one color for the turn signal, and another color, steady burn, and connect it to the interior light circuit as a puddle light.dmanns67 said:
Autolumination and exLED are the only companies I know that sell a 194 switchback. I used to have the AL ones in my front corners, they are OK, not terribly bright. I haven't seen the exLED versions in person, but they are cob style, so there are multiple chips. Drawback is you have to either buy their switchback module, or build your own, and theirs looks like it would take up a little too much space to be a convenient install for the mirrors.mcsteven said:
Switchbacks aren't required there. You're probably better off with a run of the mill 194 LED. You just have to pay attention to the orientation of how it's plugged in, and you should be good. If you're resourceful, you can find non-polarized 194 LEDs (I have a pair in my front corners currently) then you'll get both normal functions day or night.bUAkronG said:
well I was originally thinking of just getting these since I work at Advance for a second job, but I don't think I want to spend $10 per bulb, let alone not get an amber bulb.Blckshdw said:
I just figured since I'd be in there anyway I might as well make sure all the lights were working. I dunno if(now that I know it's out) my OCD will let me drive the truck with a bulb out. Especially driving such a long distance. Plus if I replace the burnt out bulb there's no rush for me to put an LED in there right away.Blckshdw said:
sweet jesus, appreciate it man! I was wanting blue though, am I going to need the aditional adapters, as I'm not seeing a set of blue ones including the required adapters.Midnyteryder196 said:
Depends on the interior lighting setup you have. It would be easier to answer with your vehicle profile filled out.CDJuda said:
I'm not exactly for sure about the swb ones.. But the lwb have lights above each door, and then above 3rd row seating.. Mine had a sunglasses holder for overhead console that I exchanged out for the dome light console.. So I have 12 dome/map lights and then the 2 panels in my cargo light makes 14 total lolCDJuda said:
You will need 8 T-10 adapters and 1 festoon adapter. From the size of those panels you may be able to fit 3 of them side by side with a little modification, makes it a little brighter than 2, but you'd need 15 panels. (3 panels is more noticeable in the cargo area when it's the only source of light)CDJuda said:
That link takes me to a repair for a leaky rear heater core... Maybe it's just that I'm on tapatalk... Hmm : confused:02TrailBlazer said:
I tried to warn you man. The sphere of influence my LED mod bug has, reaches far and wide! 
