LED Mod Thread

ncphotographer said:
OK I know I must sound like a real idiot but what do you mean by the "door modules".....and one thing I did test already was putting regular bulbs in.....and it doesn't do it with regular bulbs, it works correctly.
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The DDM and PDM are the switches for the windows and door locks. Since your DDM has the issue of the lights staying on all the time, it's not working 100% properly, so there's a slight chance it could be the cause. I don't know that it sees the brake signal for any reason, but having a known issue makes it worth looking into.

Just to confirm, ONLY the mirror turn signal hyperflashes, not the front or tail light turn signals when your brakes are pressed? Need to make sure we're seeing the accurate picture here.
 
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OK now I understand what you mean by door module.....and I'm no longer having the problem with the door module because I bought one from the junk yard and it works like it's suppose to. And yes you are correct ONLY the left mirror turn signal hyperflashes when the brake is pressed.....EVERYTHING else works like it's suppose to.
 
Got the panels in and installed them and they are VERYY bright lol lights up the whole car and more!
 
Mounce said:
Where are the pictures?? [emoji57]
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its in a non GMT car so I figured no ones cares lol our envoy has all that fun stuff in it already :smile:


Trying convince my parents so I can put some in our yukon but they don't care for them
 
Blckshdw said:
If you're gonna talk about doing LED mods, you might as well post pics, that's what we're here for. :deal:

Do the LED mods on their Yukon anyway. Just use white LEDs, I bet you they'll like them after they are done. :yes:
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Well being its a non GMT car and that there are a lot of ford haters on here I didn't want to annoy anyone posting the pictures but if you insist sure I will post pics lol








Of course pictures never do LED's much justice but an idea. Super bright and looks great!
 
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Blckshdw said:
The DDM and PDM are the switches for the windows and door locks. Since your DDM has the issue of the lights staying on all the time, it's not working 100% properly, so there's a slight chance it could be the cause. I don't know that it sees the brake signal for any reason, but having a known issue makes it worth looking into.

Just to confirm, ONLY the mirror turn signal hyperflashes, not the front or tail light turn signals when your brakes are pressed? Need to make sure we're seeing the accurate picture here.
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OK......Blckshdw......I went back and checked what you said to check......I switched the LED from left to right and flipped it around for each side and it only hyperflahses on the driver side when I push on the brake.....BUT I was wrong, not only does the side mirror turn signal hyperflash but the front and tail light turn signal hyper flashes as well. This is the LED I'm using. Any ideas?

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So when you have an LED in the mirror, hit the brake while the left turn signal is on, the whole side hyperflashes. What about when there's no bulb in the mirror, and you have the same scenario? You said a regular filament bulb results in a normal flash? Or is it just a normal flash in the mirror and hyperflash in the front and rear. Need the whole story.

I'm still suspecting your flasher relay not being right based on what you've told us up to this point.
 
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OK, sorry....here's what happens......

1) with regular bulbs in side mirror turn signal everything works correctly....no hyper flash anywhere
2) with no bulbs or LEDs in side mirror turn signal, drivers side front and rear hyper flashes regardless of pushing the brake pedal or not.....when I put on the hazards the hyper flashing stops...regardless of pushing brake pedal or not
3) with LEDs in side mirror turn signal everything works normal....no hyper flashing.....UNTIL I press the break, then everything on the drivers side hyper flashes.....when I put on the hazards no hyper flashing regardless of pressing brake or not

Hopefully that explains a little more......if you think it's still the flasher relay could you tell me what the correct flasher relay should be so I can compare it to what I have. Thanks again for all the help!!!!!!!!
 
If your right side works properly with LEDs in all 3 turn signals, then I think you have the correct relay, it's just not functioning properly, that's all. For some reason it's dependent on a certain level of resistance on the left side, and having an LED or no bulb in the mirror doesn't have enough. The whole point of the LED flasher relay is to not need to compare resistance to give you the proper flash speed. I would try to get it exchanged.

Another thing to test, unrelated to your issue, does your cruise control work? That's been a long time discussion with using the LM487. Years ago, members who used it, and no load resistors, complained they lost cruise control. My Depo tails have built in load resistors, so my cruise still works.
 
Yes sir....I just drove down the road and checked and my cruise control does work. I'll get my flasher relay replaced and see if that does it. Thanks again for the help!!
 
Blckshdw......I switched out the relay for a new one and I'm getting the same result......any other suggestions? I used the CarQuest version of the relay.....should that make a difference? Is the reason I'm having hyper flash on the left side because there's not enough power from the LEDs I'm using......do they make more powerful LEDs that would work instead? Any help from anyone is greatly appreciated!!
 
Switch something else. Leave the LED in the mirror, and put a stock bulb in the front OR the rear, and see what happens.

Your issue is not power related. LEDs use much less than filament bulbs. It's a matter of resistance that causes hyperflashing. You may need to bite the bullet, install load resistors, and call it a day. :twocents:
 
Hopefully this will be the last post from me about this matter. Today I hooked up my utility trailer to my Trailblazer.....hooked up the lights from the trailer as well....and as I was driving I noticed that the driver side signal lights were no longer hyper flashing.....so I thought, well maybe whatever it was has fixed itself.......got back home, unhooked the trailer and still no hyper flashing.....so great.....whatever it was has fixed itself. So I put my hitch cover back on and plug it in (electric hitch cover light) and the hyper flashing starts again......so it's obviously plugging in the electric hitch cover that makes the drivers side turn signals hyper flash.......and ideas why? My hitch cover has LEDs in it I believe but not 100% sure and the lights on the trailer are regular bulbs. Obviously unplugging the electric hitch cover fixes the hyper flashing and I can live with that, but would prefer to have it working.
 
ncphotographer said:
Hopefully this will be the last post from me about this matter. Today I hooked up my utility trailer to my Trailblazer.....hooked up the lights from the trailer as well....and as I was driving I noticed that the driver side signal lights were no longer hyper flashing.....so I thought, well maybe whatever it was has fixed itself.......got back home, unhooked the trailer and still no hyper flashing.....so great.....whatever it was has fixed itself. So I put my hitch cover back on and plug it in (electric hitch cover light) and the hyper flashing starts again......so it's obviously plugging in the electric hitch cover that makes the drivers side turn signals hyper flash.......and ideas why? My hitch cover has LEDs in it I believe but not 100% sure and the lights on the trailer are regular bulbs. Obviously unplugging the electric hitch cover fixes the hyper flashing and I can live with that, but would prefer to have it working.
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Blckshdw said:
Your issue is not power related. LEDs use much less than filament bulbs. It's a matter of resistance that causes hyperflashing. You may need to bite the bullet, install load resistors, and call it a day. :twocents:
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.:book: :coffee:
 
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Okay quick question.. When using load resistors for led turn, they are hooked to turn n then to ground.. Correct?

Also if there is only led in rear and Incadescent n front, is a 6ohm resistor sufficient? Or do I need a 3ohm?
 
6 ohm with every LED bulb.

3 ohm can be used on front OR rear, if both front AND rear on that side are LED.

Just to help keep myself from getting confused at all I just stick a load resistor with every LED bulb just to sure. So in your case, you'd just need a 6 ohm with your LED bulb in the rear.

Yes, it goes to turn and ground.
 
Sparky said:
6 ohm with every LED bulb.

3 ohm can be used on front OR rear, if both front AND rear on that side are LED.

Just to help keep myself from getting confused at all I just stick a load resistor with every LED bulb just to sure. So in your case, you'd just need a 6 ohm with your LED bulb in the rear.

Yes, it goes to turn and ground.
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Thanks sparky.. I thought was how they went..

I was helping a buddy on his '09 jeep patriot, where he has led in only rear, we wired in a 50w 6ohm resistor, and it still hyper flashed..

Got some more research to do now..
 
Sounds like something wasn't wired right on his Jeep then. Were you using those scotch lock things by chance? Those things are flaky.
 
Sparky said:
Sounds like something wasn't wired right on his Jeep then. Were you using those scotch lock things by chance? Those things are flaky.
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Guilty.. Lol. Yeah scotch locks were used, it was getting late, so he's gonna come back in couple days and we will figure it out then..

Prob gonna solder them in n then should be good..
 
I'd just double verify you got the right wires also. If it was late you could have put the resistor on the running or brake light by accident. No, I've never, ever spliced into the wrong wires, why are you looking at me that way... :whistle: :dunce:
 
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Hey where'd you find my picture?
 
When you look up sparky there is a bunch of the firedog and then you have to search for you...

Or did I look up shocking?
 
IMG_20140624_211532_616.jpg

This is for midnightryder - I only de-blued the battery symbol and it's a night and day difference already. You can see how dimly the gauge looks in comparison. Just want to say thanks again for inspiring me to go back in here!

Also sorry for upside down pic.

IMG_20140624_205106_138.jpg

Sneak peek at something else.

Also thanks agin to carlton for the post about the reverse radio connector. Testing this on a bench is much easier then running back to the truck every 5 minutes. A little pin reconfiguring and testing is a breeze.
 
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MAY03LT said:
Also thanks agin to carlton for the post about the reverse radio connector. Testing this on a bench is much easier then running back to the truck every 5 minutes. A little pin reconfiguring and testing is a breeze.
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I can't take all the credit for that one. When I was directed to a DIC mod thread on the OS, it stated the radio harness used the same pins as the cluster harness. When I looked it up on Ebay, it also looked like the connectors matched (which we obviously know they do) and with Mooseman's wiring diagram, the test bench was born! :thumbsup:
 
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IMG_20140624_221218_675.jpg

Hopefully this pic is right side up. I'm still going to do an smd strip around the perimeter like mrphoenix80 did for maximum coverage.

Aarkon I already get blinded by my TXBlazer LED inserts so it's all good lol.
 
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This is a pic that I posted a while back where I showed how dim the cluster was compared to the headlight switch. Same LEDs, same resistors.



Here's how she sits now. I was too excited to even pop the needles on lol. Cameras and LEDs don't play well together so it might not look like it but the cluster matches the headlight switch perfect. The hotspots are another side effect of the camera.



I did a bulb test with the tech2 to test the cruise light - boss. I use cruise a lot so I used a 5mm flat top for it so I don't get blinded.




So this is what I'm calling the midnyteryder de-bluing mod. I used a heat gun to soften the glue that holds the overlay (not sure if that's the name of it, it's the piece in this pic) to the clear plastic. Once inside, I used q-tips and goo gone to remove the blue paste crap from the overlay. I had close to 3 hours in that part of the process. I left the kph display blued since I don't plan on going to Canada anytime soon lol.

After that, I did the mrphoenix mod and added one smd strip around the perimeter to help fill in the voids. I was going to do 2 passes like he did, but after one pass she was right. There were 66 smds in the length of strip that I used, plus the original 6 so 72 total.

So what I have now is a hybrid midnyterydermrphoenix cluster that matches the surrounding switches and I couldn't be happier with the way that this turned out.

I'm not done LED-ing yet.



I did the manual controller back in '10 and wasn't happy with the alignment of the white LEDs behind the sliders. You can see where they don't overlap well. I figured one day I'd get to it, and here we are 4 and a half years later. I got a strip of white smds to try to help fill in the area a little better.
 
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