Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
Hid kits
- Thread starter yodaddy4200
- Start date
but for real, I could buy two after market LED tail lights for like 160 :x instead of 31.99x4 plus shipping lmao
wesman43
Member
- Apr 30, 2013
- 199
dmanns67 said:
Gotcha okay, I would have to switch a couple wires around on the board and add a resistor to prevent hyper flash, right? I am sorry for asking so many questions I am just verifying my research after you told me about SRCK. I saw that old thread about rewiring the OEM boards with parts from Dorman ones, but that was for non SRCK AND dual park. So I wouldn't need the extra boards I assume just for the non SRCK just switch the wires around
NinjuhhNutz
Member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 720
wesman43 said:
If you are planning on using them as turn signals, then yes you will need a resistor on each side to prevent hyper flash. I think I used 6 Ohm, 50 watt resistors for my front turn signals. I believe May03LT is a vendor dual park boards if that is something you are interested in.
I should create a new thread that's called "GMTNation Plethora of Topics"
DFWWIZ
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 516
wesman43 said:
The Dorman boards are easier to modify to non SRCK because they have wires instead of metal "runners". I was doing the dual park/changing the boards from CK to regular for awhile but interest sort of ran out. I had a good low cost source for the boards at one time but can't remember who it was.
NinjuhhNutz
Member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 720
- Feb 3, 2013
- 350
I dont know what happened to the LEDs but the seller is sending me a return label because i believe they are still under warranty.. well see if they replace
NinjuhhNutz
Member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 720
Are you talking abt the 15w reverse hid's?
3157 is the bulb type that goes in the reverse light housing. There are tons of kits online for it. Honestly, I'd go with the cheapest I could find
it's not like you need killer light output, and that way if you dont like it, or aomething goes screwy, you aren't out of a load of $
3157 is the bulb type that goes in the reverse light housing. There are tons of kits online for it. Honestly, I'd go with the cheapest I could find
it's not like you need killer light output, and that way if you dont like it, or aomething goes screwy, you aren't out of a load of $
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Okay well I placed my order from this place last week, and I just realized I still hadn't received a confirmation of any sort. Their toll free number is constantly "Busy" and there is no support that has contacted me pertaining to my order. My card has already been charged the amount too.
Quality Xenon HID Kits - HID Conversion Kit - FREE Shipping & Best Prices | HidKitXenonLights.com
Quality Xenon HID Kits - HID Conversion Kit - FREE Shipping & Best Prices | HidKitXenonLights.com
I had a similar situation with a company in florida. About a month went by with a phone call and email everyday from me to them and still no contact from the company and they had already charged my card as well. It took me contacting the Better Business Bureau (BBB) and contacting my bank to dispute the charge to get my money back. Sure enough I get a call that same week from the owner who apologized. Very poor customer service.
From that day forward, if I find a product online that I am interested in I will email that company a random question about the product and see how long they take to respond or if they respond just to make sure they are still in business (Excluding amazon, ebay, or other sites I have purchased from before).
I would try to contact them via email or their live chat to see if you can get a response. I would say if two weeks go by with no product or a response from the company, I would dispute the charge with your bank/credit card company just to CYA.
From that day forward, if I find a product online that I am interested in I will email that company a random question about the product and see how long they take to respond or if they respond just to make sure they are still in business (Excluding amazon, ebay, or other sites I have purchased from before).
I would try to contact them via email or their live chat to see if you can get a response. I would say if two weeks go by with no product or a response from the company, I would dispute the charge with your bank/credit card company just to CYA.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Their live support feature is "William" and its him every time. Very poor service. I spoke with him over live service and he said the reason they could not email my confirmation is that my email has a spam blocker that would not let him send the message? LOL.. I have a spam folder. He asked if I had a 'more generic' email (other than my comcast one) to send it to. I gave him my old hotmail email address, not expecting to receive anything but I actually did get it surprisingly. I read one review on the net saying some guy had similar trouble when trying to replace a part under warranty, and a week after his card was compromised. I called my card company and had the card cancelled immediately and issued me a new card number just to be safe. Ugh. These things better work and the lifetime warranty better be legit.
DenaliHD66 said:
That does sound pretty shady. Good call on canceling the card. I would think Comcast email would be as generic as they come. My guess is that they never sent the email at all. Hopefully your kit does not show up like my DDM kit did with a bad ballast and a flickering HID bulb. Worst part about DDM is that their kits ship directly from China, about 30 days shipping time. I just sent the kit back and got my money back.
I checked out their site when you said life time warranty, but I could not find their warranty policy anywhere on their site, only seen the words lifetime warranty. I was just looking to see what they covered and what their procedure was.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Mmm if you click on the returns or refunds section I think it talks about it there. It did cover in more detail somewhere. I dunno though, I'm going to be very cautious in looking at them. And I've been driving with 1 headlight for a month now. Aggravating.
DFWWIZ
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 516
cuban05 said:
You could have gotten Cree/12 SMD 600 lumen bulbs from me and had them in hand by now for a lot less. $24 shipped for a pair-plug them in and no modding, with 2 year warranty. Customer service is lacking with most any big company that has forgotten what that is. You do know that HIDs have a warm up period before they are fully lit? Cree is instantaneous and much simpler. HID for reverse is overkill for how much they actually get used.
My CREE reverse
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Received the lights today. Everything came, surprisingly, and the ballasts look pretty high quality. Box has a very easy install instructions but they are easy to install when you are replacing existing ones.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Yep neither light worked. Hoping to god I am able to return these things. Ugh, shoulda known. Went to Advance and bought a set of silverstar ultras in the meantime. They just aren't HIDs 
.
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Blckshdw
Moderator
DenaliHD66 said:Yep neither light worked. Hoping to god I am able to return these things. Ugh, shoulda known. Went to Advance and bought a set of silverstar ultras in the meantime. They just aren't HIDs
Did you try flipping the plug over, that plugs into the ballasts? On some of the installs I've helped with, the 9006 connector on the ballast was on backwards, so the reversed polarity caused the bulbs not to fire.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Blckshdw
Moderator
The clips hook onto that little nipple on the ballast plugs 1 way, but you can still flip the plug over, so the clips don't hook onto the nipple. I've done this on installs a handful of times, and that turned out to be the problem. Might as well give it a shot, worst case scenario, they still don't fire and you try to return them anyway.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Yeah I guess I could try that. I already sent those guys an email asking to process the return, so we'll see. The install for these is way easier than the install was for my fog lights.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
If this works, then I'll be happy since these are lifetime warranty.
Also, these bulbs have a pink rod next to them. They are [supposed] to be 8000k, and the ones they replace are 8000k and they had blue rods. Not sure if that impacts the color or what they do to the functionality.
Also, these bulbs have a pink rod next to them. They are [supposed] to be 8000k, and the ones they replace are 8000k and they had blue rods. Not sure if that impacts the color or what they do to the functionality.
NinjuhhNutz
Member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 720
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
So my new HID's take several attempts of toggling the light switch and then the highbeams (I have quad-beam headlights wired) in order to get them to fire up. They NEVER come on when I hit my unlock button, or when I put the truck into drive. Also, the right lowbeam is much lower than the left. Not sure how this happened but how can I adjust it? The headlight casing itself doesn't flex very much so its not like it can be propped up from underneath.
Blckshdw
Moderator
DenaliHD66 said:
Unless you did the capacitor mod, if they did come on, they would make a buzzing noise, which is them being damaged by a PWM signal... Not good. If you have a DRL killer, then this is normal.
DenaliHD66 said:
Look for this knob on the back of your headlight. You can find a socket that will fit it. Rotate it one way to raise the beam, the other way to lower it.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Sweet thanks.
And yes my old set were non-digital, and sometimes they would come on when I hit the unlock button on the keyfob and they would buzz. Sometimes they would flicker. So this is actually damaging to them? Also, when I put it into drive and its daylight out, should they come on or not?
And yes my old set were non-digital, and sometimes they would come on when I hit the unlock button on the keyfob and they would buzz. Sometimes they would flicker. So this is actually damaging to them? Also, when I put it into drive and its daylight out, should they come on or not?
Blckshdw
Moderator
DenaliHD66 said:
Slight correction to my previous post, the repeated toggling to get your HIDs to fire, is NOT normal. I was talking just about the unlock and DRL feature. First off, which direction did you go? DRL killer or cap mod?
Stock setup for our trucks, the drls and perimeter lighting (in the low beams) do not get constant, full power. The BCM sends a pulse width modulated signal to them. This is the equivalent to a child flicking a light switch on and off as fast as they can. With stock bulbs, there's a brief warm up and cool down time, and the constant change in state doesn't allow the filament to reach full brightness, or turn all the way off. The result is that constant, dimmer light output.
With HIDs the result is the ballast igniter firing off every time it receives the "on" signal, and you hear this as a buzzing noise. For those who use a relay harness, you will also hear buzzing, as the armature inside the relay is flicking on/off/on/off as commanded by the signal. Unless something is designed to function repeatedly like this, the lifespan is going to be severely shortened as a result.
The cap mod essentially fills in the voltage gaps of the PWM, so it is a constant signal, instead of the alternating one. So if you did the cap mod, then your perimeter lighting, and drls once you put the truck in drive SHOULD come on. If you did the drl killer, then they should not. With mine, I have auto fogs tied in with my low beams, and my driver's side fog usually never fires when the truck starts up in a dark environment. But I only have to toggle my switch 1 time. On occasion a different ballast doesn't fire during startup, but it's the same thing. If the truck is already running, and the auto lights come on, they all fire every time.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Blckshdw said:
I did not do any mods as far as DRL/cap. Just annoys me that when its not completely dark outside I can't tell if I'm running with just one light on, none, or both.