Hid kits

[dmanns67]

5 year warranty is pretty good. Both bulbs and ballasts are covered?

Yes sir, bulbs, ballasts, and relay harness are covered for the 5 years. If you happen to buy the bulbs or ballasts individually, then they are only covered for 2 years.

Some people cannot justify spending $150.00 for one kit when they can buy 3 VVME kits for the same price.

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

quantity vs quality...and tbh, I'd pay more jiat to get parts from the guys a trfs, just because they've gone out if their way to help out when I made a mistake ordering some spare parts. Hands down the best customer service I've ever dealt with, while purchasing anything.

 

[yodaddy4200]

3k lows are in

View attachment 28461

Ill post some night shots later around 9 pacific. I ordered some 5w cree with 12 5050 smd's around the base for running and reverse!!

 

[DenaliHD66]

3k's really make a HUGE difference, especially in rain and snow. It helps aid your depth perception when driving on wet roads at night so you can see where you are on the road.

 

[yodaddy4200]

Night pic up in 5

 

[yodaddy4200]

My tail lights arent working... Im gonna go see whats up with it. Brake lights seem to be working? Ill try and get a pic up still!!

 

[dmanns67]

I am interested to see how the 3ks performs in the low beams. I have always seen them used in fogs, but never in the lows. I have 4300k in the fogs now, still debating on switching over to 3k.

 

[.[dOp].skyLINe]

here is my TB with hid kits from sharphid with lifetime warranty per 140 dlls the 2 kits

8000k 55w with DRL cap mod and relay

[/URL]

 

[dmanns67]

Any night shots of the 3K low beams in action?

 

[yodaddy4200]

Wow five mins turns into two days real quick when you realize your damn tail lights dont work Im sorry guys but here it is. Oh i got the flash of to so they should be decent pics. I also got some badass 7w cree with 12 50/50 smb base!!

Is it me or does this look like the gucci sign??

View attachment 28518

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My 5w cree with 50/50 12 smd base amber running lights should be here in a couple days!! I wanted to get them first but Reverse showed up first!!

The reverse lights are 840 total lumens!!

 

[dmanns67]

Wow five mins turns into two days real quick when you realize your damn tail lights dont work Im sorry guys but here it is. Oh i got the flash of to so they should be decent pics. I also got some badass 7w cree with 12 50/50 smb base!!

Is it me or does this look like the gucci sign??

My 5w cree with 50/50 12 smd base amber running lights should be here in a couple days!! I wanted to get them first but Reverse showed up first!!

The reverse lights are 840 total lumens!!

I have seen your thread about your issues with the tail lights. Hopefully The Roadie can steer you in the right direction.

Those are some bright reverse lights. You say those are the spider lights? Have you been had an bad weather to see how the 3k perform at night in the rain? After seeing your lights, I think I am going to upgrade to 3K's in my fogs!

 

[DenaliHD66]

Both of my low beams went out while I was toggling between my high beams and low beams, and they failed to fire back up, and drove about 15 miles home in the dark on my 3k fog lights. They were plenty of light to still drive 80 mph and on back roads. I'm glad no cops were around to disagree

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

Both of my low beams went out while I was toggling between my high beams and low beams, and they failed to fire back up, and drove about 15 miles home in the dark on my 3k fog lights. They were plenty of light to still drive 80 mph and on back roads. I'm glad no cops were around to disagree

I was about to say...lol
Driving I. The dark with 3k's doesn't quite sound right

 

[Ryda55555]

Wow those are bright!

 

[DenaliHD66]

Well.... my Kensun's arrived today... opened up the shiny little box to find everything disheveled and unpackaged. The "mounting brackets" would not even fit on the ballasts if there was even a legitimate way of using them for mounting, it was missing zip ties, and it came with no other form of mounting the ballasts. They will be returned tomorrow, and my one-eyed-envoy lives on for another week.

 

[dmanns67]

Well.... my Kensun's arrived today... opened up the shiny little box to find everything disheveled and unpackaged. The "mounting brackets" would not even fit on the ballasts if there was even a legitimate way of using them for mounting, it was missing zip ties, and it came with no other form of mounting the ballasts. They will be returned tomorrow, and my one-eyed-envoy lives on for another week.

Thats unfortunate to hear. I honestly did not even use the mounting bracket for my Kensun kit on the wife's F-150. It was actually easier to use zip ties to mount the ballasts. Did you hook the kit up or are you just returning it due to how it arrived and missing items? Have you checked out The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications?

 

[DenaliHD66]

I'm going to return it because I just want the stick pads and better quality parts.

I got these for my fogs and they have been great. Not sure of the wattage on these:

8000K HID Kit [8000K]

I also am looking at these, they have option for 55w:

LOW BEAM: Full Xenon HID Conversion Kit For GMC ENVOY XL 2004: Quality Xenon HID Kits - HID Conversion Kit - FREE Shipping & Best Prices | HidKitXenonLights.com

^^these have lifetime warranty also...

 

[dmanns67]

I would say the 8K's in your fogs would have to be 35w. 55w is too much heat for the stock fog light housing on the TB.

You cannot beat a lifetime warranty. Are you by chance going to use the 55w HIDs in your low beams with a projector? If you are planning on using the stock housing, it will literally look like you are driving around with your brights on. 55w would be good in the high beams, but as you probably know, the warm up time is the only down side.

 

[DenaliHD66]

My fogs are 3k 35w lows. I'm not getting projectors so I'll stick to the regular then. My high beams are the originals---not gonna replace them until they burn out. I'll just get PIAA halogens for them.

The second ones don't come with adhesive pads either. I haven't had any problems with my other ballasts with the stick pads... not sure how I can mount them, I'll probably just use zip ties then.

 

[dmanns67]

I have always had luck with zip ties. I can put my ballasts in the driest place without worrying about the adhesive coming off or drilling a hole for the bracket to secure them.

How are the 3k's in the fogs? Do they make a big difference when driving in rain and snow? I have 4300k now, but thinking about changing to 3k.

 

[Showtyme]

So i keep seeing everybody saying how bad warm up time is for the highs but nobody elaborates on this. So how long is warm up time to full brightness? Is there usable light output before they reach full brightness? Probably not doing HID's real soon but i would like to know before i dive in.

 

[smitty5150]

Don't wanna hijack, but I am a seller of hid kits. I sell Morimoto and a couple of cheap no name brands. For the Morimoto kits, I offer a choice of free shipping or 10% discount for forum members.

 

[dmanns67]

So i keep seeing everybody saying how bad warm up time is for the highs but nobody elaborates on this. So how long is warm up time to full brightness? Is there usable light output before they reach full brightness? Probably not doing HID's real soon but i would like to know before i dive in.

I would not say warm up time bad, but it will be take longer than 35w. I would say on average my Morimoto 35w HIDs take roughly 10 seconds to fully warm up. 55w will take longer.

If you use your brights for long periods of time while driving at night and you have the quad beam mod completed then you should not have any issues as your low beams will still be providing light while the 55w warm up. Without the quad beam mod you will lose some lumens when the low beams turn off and your highs are warming up.

HIDs do not like to be turned off and on quickly, so if you use the flash to pass quite often then that will lower the life span of the bulbs. Now if you go the OEM route with Denso ballasts (Toyota, Lexus) or Matsushita Gen V ballasts (Nissan, Infiniti, Subaru) combined with OEM bulbs Osram or Philips, warm up time will not be an issue and you will have the reliability of OEM parts, but you will reach deep in your pockets for those.

If you look at most vehicles with factory equipped HIDs, they either have HID low and halogen high or have a bi-xenon projector. The projector has one bulb and when the highs are activated a solenoid moves the shield producing a high beam.

I have to say out of all HID kits that I have used, Morimoto has to be the best (As my pockets are not deep enough for OEM Lol). You can buy 2 or 3 VVME/E-Bay kits for the price of one Morimoto kit, but their customer service, warranty, and products are phenomenal. I would definitely take Smitty5150 up on that offer, thats $15 off of the entire kit. The kit also comes with a relay harness and a 5yr warranty.

 

[Showtyme]

I would not say warm up time bad, but it will be take longer than 35w. I would say on average my Morimoto 35w HIDs take roughly 10 seconds to fully warm up. 55w will take longer.

If you use your brights for long periods of time while driving at night and you have the quad beam mod completed then you should not have any issues as your low beams will still be providing light while the 55w warm up. Without the quad beam mod you will lose some lumens when the low beams turn off and your highs are warming up.

HIDs do not like to be turned off and on quickly, so if you use the flash to pass quite often then that will lower the life span of the bulbs. Now if you go the OEM route with Denso ballasts (Toyota, Lexus) or Matsushita Gen V ballasts (Nissan, Infiniti, Subaru) combined with OEM bulbs Osram or Philips, warm up time will not be an issue and you will have the reliability of OEM parts, but you will reach deep in your pockets for those.

If you look at most vehicles equipped with OEM HIDs, they either have HID low and halogen high or have a bi-xenon projector. The projector has one bulb and when the highs are activated a solenoid moves the shield producing a high beam.

I have to say out of all HID kits that I have used, Morimoto has to be the best. You can buy 2 or 3 VVME/E-Bay kits for the price of one Morimoto kit, but their customer service, warranty, and products are phenomenal. I would definitely take Smitty5150 up on that offer, thats $15 off of the entire kit. The kit as comes with a relay harness and a 5yr warranty.

Thanks for answering my question. 10 seconds isnt bad. I thought it was like 30 the way everybody was talking. Money is my main reason for holding off cuz i only want to install them once and dont want to have to fiddle with them on a regular basis. The price for the VVME's is tempting but i would prefer high quality. I will def hit Smitty up when it comes time.

 

[DenaliHD66]

I have always had luck with zip ties. I can put my ballasts in the driest place without worrying about the adhesive coming off or drilling a hole for the bracket to secure them.

How are the 3k's in the fogs? Do they make a big difference when driving in rain and snow? I have 4300k now, but thinking about changing to 3k.

3k's are well worth it. Definite improvement in snow and rain.

So i keep seeing everybody saying how bad warm up time is for the highs but nobody elaborates on this. So how long is warm up time to full brightness? Is there usable light output before they reach full brightness? Probably not doing HID's real soon but i would like to know before i dive in.

Digital ballasts are the way to go. They warm up quicker and shine brighter. You are never going to be in a situation where you need the lights to be full brightness instantly. Unless you are toggling between highbeam/lowbeam, when in that case I don't personally recommend getting HID's for high beams. But if you are driving around for a while with your high beams on, it make take a second or two for the lows to warm back up. Or, you can wire it so your lows stay on (like I have), and see the difference.

 

[Showtyme]

Digital ballasts are the way to go. They warm up quicker and shine brighter. You are never going to be in a situation where you need the lights to be full brightness instantly. Unless you are toggling between highbeam/lowbeam, when in that case I don't personally recommend getting HID's for high beams. But if you are driving around for a while with your high beams on, it make take a second or two for the lows to warm back up. Or, you can wire it so your lows stay on (like I have), and see the difference.

Thanks for the advice. Already planning on doing the 6 HI mod otherwise i wouldnt even consider HID's for high beams.

 

[wesman43]

I have 4.3k Lows in mine, they are super bright white and I love it. Doesn't look as cool but still. I have 55w 6k high beams and they do take a while to warm up. But as said it doesn't matter with quad high beams. I am thinking of replacing the whole system because they were on this car for 3 years before I bought it. They are all rusty, but work.

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

aye yo yodaddy! lol you ever get the tails working? I didn't see anything about a fix for it, or maybe I missed it? idk
After the past couple days of it raining...I'm starting to think that 3k's in some fogs tucked away out of sight would be awesome! I have a 15-20 min drive to and from work, and coming home late at night (especially the weekends) gets a bit tricky in bad weather. I may just look into this

 

[Ryda55555]

here is my TB with hid kits from sharphid with lifetime warranty per 140 dlls the 2 kits

8000k 55w with DRL cap mod and relay

[/URL]

Nice lookin rig you got there,
Yodaddy, you should do your bumper like this!

 

[yodaddy4200]

Thanks Ryda!! I feel weird calling you ryda cause my PSN (playstation network) gamer tag is CMB-RYDER-CMB! ive had it for like 5 years so you can refer to me as Ryder as well LMAO!! Anyways i dont really care for that bumper to much!! It would also be a PITA to mount the projector fogs i have in the stock fog holes!!

Yes ninja gottem workin. Spider lights were fucked. lol

 

[Ryda55555]

Thanks Ryda!! I feel weird calling you ryda cause my PSN (playstation network) gamer tag is CMB-RYDER-CMB! ive had it for like 5 years so you can refer to me as Ryder as well LMAO!! Anyways i dont really care for that bumper to much!! It would also be a PITA to mount the projector fogs i have in the stock fog holes!!

Yes ninja gottem workin. Spider lights were fucked. lol

Hahaha i was talking about plastidipping the bottom part of the bumper black like that, i forgot my psn name lool been too busy with my voy
I think my psn name is rydang5, but next time i go on i'll add you if you dont beat me to it

 

[dmanns67]

Spider lights were fucked. lol

What happened to the spider lights? Over heated, shorted out, moisture?

 

[NinjuhhNutz]

If it's the same thing my dum-dum ass did...lol
After looking into the srck vs non-srck thing extensively, and bottle (or 3) of wine with my gf, I ended up ordering the wrong ones lol
A couple blown fuses, loss of cruise control and fubar'd tail/brake lights later...I figured it out

 

[DFWWIZ]

If it's the same thing my dum-dum ass did...lol
After looking into the srck vs non-srck thing extensively, and bottle (or 3) of wine with my gf, I ended up ordering the wrong ones lol
A couple blown fuses, loss of cruise control and fubar'd tail/brake lights later...I figured it out

Most people don't realize the TB's all have SRCK in the back tails. Blown fuse is the first hint...

 

[wesman43]

Most people don't realize the TB's all have SRCK in the back tails. Blown fuse is the first hint...

So what are SRCK and how do they differ from non, then does that mean you have to find SRCK spider bulbs? Or..?

 

[dmanns67]

So what are SRCK and how do they differ from non, then does that mean you have to find SRCK spider bulbs? Or..?

Here's some knowledge from The Roadie...

I've been annoyed by that question since the first time I saw the acronym. Never bothered to research it until today,and I'm still not totally done.

The "CK" in the acronym seems to refer to the Chevy "C-K" series - full size pickups. Seems the electrical designer changed the assignment of the grounds in a way that incandescent lamps don't care, but it's backwards for LEDs.

More reading: Convert GMC CK Series To LED Tail Lights : How-To Articles

I also found sites that refer to "SACK" lamps as Amber, and "SRCK" as Red.

I haven't totally confirmed that the "S" means "Special", but that's my current prediction. "Special Red C-K".

Insane GM designers strike again, early and often.

View attachment 14964

 

[wesman43]

Edit: answered my own question. New one: Isn't there a way to change it to non srck by just swapping the wires in the board around?!

 

[dmanns67]

Okay, so in order to put spider LEDs in I have to convert it from SRCK unless I can find bulbs already wired that way??:screwy::thumbdown:

With all of the LEDs I have purchased, I stay away from the CK style base and go with standard. I usually buy my LEDs from High Performance LED Car Lighting, Light Bulbs, LED Headlights, Taillights, Turn Signals, and Brake Lights and they have this warning for ck style bases.

IMPORTANT! The CK bulb is designed for special applications commonly found on Toyota vehicles like the Camry, 03-08 Corolla, and all Tundras. If you have a standard socket and try installing this bulb may cause a dead short and blow your fuse or will not light on the parking element.

Check out 3157 Tail Light Brake Light Turn Signal LED Bulbs about a third down the page. They have single circuit (standard) and dual circuit (CK) spider lights in white, amber, and red.

 

[wesman43]

With all of the LEDs I have purchased, I stay away from the CK style base and go with standard. I usually buy my LEDs from High Performance LED Car Lighting, Light Bulbs, LED Headlights, Taillights, Turn Signals, and Brake Lights and they have this warning for ck style bases.

IMPORTANT! The CK bulb is designed for special applications commonly found on Toyota vehicles like the Camry, 03-08 Corolla, and all Tundras. If you have a standard socket and try installing this bulb may cause a dead short and blow your fuse or will not light on the parking element.

Check out 3157 Tail Light Brake Light Turn Signal LED Bulbs about a third down the page. They have single circuit (standard) and dual circuit (CK) spider lights in white, amber, and red.

Yesssss so no fucking with wires until I order interior LEDs lol

 

[wesman43]

Wow they are super expensive. 31.99 each?!?! There is no.way. I am paying the cost of a half tank of gas for one light bulb lol