Bought junkyard front differential..was I robbed?

[Uncleenvoy]

With the front diff out of the car sitting in my drive way if I turn the u joint with my hand (A in picture) shouldn't the intermediate shaft (B in picture) turn accordingly...cause the one I got doesn't do that...GT4 3:73..****one in pic is not the one I bought, just the first pic I saw on google..I've been driving without both front cv axles for months now and I'm ready to put in the replacement front diff..but obviously don't want go thru all that work just to learn I got robbed and it doesn't work

 

[TollKeeper]

It may or may not turn. The leverage you are applying by turning the yoke will follow the path of least resistance. So it may be turning the other end of the diff. Can you turn the intermediate shaft by hand??

 

[coolasice]

Simple test... Stick a CV axle in and turn the yoke. Hold the shaft that turns first and the opposite one should turn instead.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Ok I'll give it a try tomorrow I've been dealing with the disconnect all day...followed some advice on another forum about getting it out but that last stuck in there piece is really giving me the business..anyone have any other suggestions I've gone at it with a drill,a air chisel pry bar screwdriver.

 

[Mooseman]

Classic problem. This should help:
Hard to remove front disconnect

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Thanks moose..that link was the other forum I mentioned in my previous post..I broke my dill making the first hole so I'm going to buy another one in the morn and tackle it again

 

[coolride]

I just removed a stuck disco. I was able to slowly work a chisel under the bottom edge (from under the truck,) while I pulled at the top edge with a slide hammer. It walked out in small steps.

Edit: Sorry, just noticed the picture of the broken disco case.

 

[coolasice]

Classic problem. This should help:
Hard to remove front disconnect

This... Did mine like this... Worked perfect

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Finally got the remainder of the disconnect out..I'm gonna try to separate the diff from the oil pan tmrw..from what I can see so far looks like three bolts and the u joint. I'll be surprised if it's that simple..tips and suggestions are appreciated

 

[coolride]

Pretty sure it's 4 bolts. How you planning to get the diff out of the engine compartment? There's 2 different styles.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

4 bolts. Ok I'll look out for that when I'm under there..thanks...I don't know which way I'm gonna go with the removal yet...one step at a time approach..just want to see if it comes free from the pan first or its seized on there..I see some vids saying u gotta raise the engine some saying u don't..some take it from the top some from the bottom..I don't know...once I get it loose I'll assess the situation..

 

[coolasice]

4 bolts. Ok I'll look out for that when I'm under there..thanks...I don't know which way I'm gonna go with the removal yet...one step at a time approach..just want to see if it comes free from the pan first or its seized on there..I see some vids saying u gotta raise the engine some saying u don't..some take it from the top some from the bottom..I don't know...once I get it loose I'll assess the situation..

Correct, 4 bolts. The bottom bolt under the CV Shaft bearing is a bit of a bugger to get out due to the proximity of the frame. I pulled mine out the top as for me it was easier working in my driveway... Mine was quite seized to my pan... I hammered chisels in between but the final thing that released it was using a hatchet as a wedge and hammering it in between the pan and diff. Many curse words were said.

 

[coolride]

It's a process so just take it one step at a time. Most people prefer to remove the fan, and the water pump and the alternator. Then they unbolt the AC pump (without disconnecting the lines) and set it at the back of the engine compartment. I've never done the job my self but I'm preparing to tackle the job at some point.

That 4th bolt is probably hiding from you, aft of the diff's heart, behind the input shaft. The other 3 are in predictable locations.

The diff WILL come free of the pan. Couldn't hurt to start adding (well in advance) some PB Blaster to the contact areas that you suspect might be seized.

 

[coolride]

Wedges are a great way to go but take it very easy, and be patient. See if you can get the wedges evenly spaced so they don't work one side more than the other.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Coolride...found that elusive bolt..got a socket and ratchet in there but no room to ratchet it ..won't even get 1click on the ratchet..I'm gonna go get a 19mm ratchet wrench or regular wrench tmrw, largest I've got is a 17mm..not sure if there is gonna be enough clearance for the bolt thou (pic A were the red arrows are)
Also how do u get that bolt out next to the u joint..is the drive shaft supposed to just drop when u remove the four bolts and two brackets? Because that suckers is not budgeing I mean no movement at all not even a little wiggle.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Coolasice also..just noticed 2 different cools..I put old girl up on 4 jack stands so I can engage the 4 wheel drive to see if the rotating of the ujoint would give enough clearance for that bolt but no good..Coolasice what did u do to solve this

 

[Uncleenvoy]

I think this might of been the initial cause of failure

 

[TollKeeper]

I usually just take a hammer and beat on the joint itself until the vibration causes it to drop out. DONT HIT THE SHAFT ITSELF!! LOL.,

 

[coolasice]

Coolasice also..just noticed 2 different cools..I put old girl up on 4 jack stands so I can engage the 4 wheel drive to see if the rotating of the ujoint would give enough clearance for that bolt but no good..Coolasice what did u do to solve this

I pried the ujoint out and moved the shaft out of the way.. it wasn't too difficult as i had removed the shaft to replace the pinion seal a few years ago. As for the the difficult bolt... well i used a regular wrench for it... it's a pain in the ass... but doable.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@coolasice....thanks I'll give it a go..I'm going to have to remove and replace the oil pan..just discovered a hole in it after doing an oil change..since both the disconnect and the oil pan are now trash does anyone know if can I pull both out together

 

[coolride]

Oh man. I didn't see that hole in your previous picture. It's early in the morning and I haven't had any coffee yet. But I'd be tempted to patch that hole with JB Weld and then convert the truck to 2WD. (Just thinking out loud.)

 

[Maverick6587]

JB Weld should be fine. I'd change your oil though before you run it. I'd be worried about that large piece of metal getting tossed around in that oil pan and chancing it getting sucked up in the oil transfer tube.

Time involved... I might even think about just grabbing a "new" oil pan from the junkyard. Just cut the cv axles with a reciprocating saw instead of removing them. You'd also be sure to remove that metal piece from the oil pan as well.

 

[TollKeeper]

You can pull the oil pan, disconnect, and differential all out together. Just be careful that you dont catch the plastic bits of the disconnect on something. I think I would still go thru the process of pulling the CV Axles if they are in good shape. You never know if you might need one.

 

[coolride]

@coolasice....thanks I'll give it a go..I'm going to have to remove and replace the oil pan..just discovered a hole in it after doing an oil change..since both the disconnect and the oil pan are now trash does anyone know if can I pull both out together

I might see what happened.

 

[coolasice]

@coolasice....thanks I'll give it a go..I'm going to have to remove and replace the oil pan..just discovered a hole in it after doing an oil change..since both the disconnect and the oil pan are now trash does anyone know if can I pull both out together

dang.. that's an aww F%@# moment. looks like you might have hit it with the chisel or drill bit maybe? If you can get another oil pan you'd probably be better off. Just swap the pan and the diff at the same time. Just make sure the newer pan doesn't have any cracks/holes also.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@TollKeeper @Maverick6587 the disconnect has been removed it's all in pieces..drivers side cv axle is garbage and has been removed but the inner end is currently stuck in the diff..as u can see in the pics earlier in the post.. and passenger cv was chewed up buy the disconnect..I'm gonna go with a "new" oil pan

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Progress...I gotta say this was surprisingly easy..I would of finished removing the oil pan bolts if it didn't start raining on me..wish I did this from the beginning..way less trouble than banging on that disconnect..honestly the hardest part was keeping that rubber boot up and out the way while I tried to get the steering column bolt out.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Question..was this supposed to happen they fell off the joint end of the driveshaft..I just banged on it lightly with hammer to get it loose..barely tapped it really.

 

[coolasice]

Question..was this supposed to happen they fell off the joint end of the driveshaft..I just banged on it lightly with hammer to get it loose..barely tapped it really.

Yep very common, best thing to do when removing joints is get it loose and wrap it with tape. if you didn't lose any of the needles you can clean them out real good and reinstall them with new grease.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@coolasice thanks..I did save the pins I don't know if I got them all but I'll check..if not what are they called can u buy replacements?

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Does anyone if they're any oil pan bolts behind this rubber thing..ive been trying to pull it out to see but its pretty stuck in there and i don't want to damage it in case its something important

 

[coolride]

@coolasice thanks..I did save the pins I don't know if I got them all but I'll check..if not what are they called can u buy replacements?

You might consider buying new bearings. I don't think they're very expensive.

 

[Mooseman]

Does anyone if they're any oil pan bolts behind this rubber thing..ive been trying to pull it out to see but its pretty stuck in there and i don't want to damage it in case its something important

Yes! Definitely pull it out and take out the bolts in there.

 

[coolasice]

@coolasice thanks..I did save the pins I don't know if I got them all but I'll check..if not what are they called can u buy replacements?

You might consider buying new bearings. I don't think they're very expensive.

You can get new u joints, but swapping can be a pain in the ass.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Thanks for the info guys..got the oilpan off yesterday in about 20 minitz but spent the next 5 hours trying to get it and the diff out together..can any one say square hole round peg....just was not happening...sooo one $40.00 harbor freight extended reach cutoff tool later..and voila

 

[Uncleenvoy]

If anyone is interested in seeing what a very bad front diff looks like..look at those bolt heads..geez

 

[Uncleenvoy]

One major screwup on my part here though..I should of put some plastic on the under side of the engine. The fine shavings from the cutting got on the parts up there. The oil pan was aluminum so magnet not gonna help.please tell me that after a major detailed cleaning and wipe down that the oil filter should take care of whatever I don't get out, and I can just get a new filter after a few miles

 

[Mooseman]

I'd spray everything down with lots of brake cleaner and hopefully most of it will dribble out with it. The rest should get picked up by the filter.

And while you're there, check the oil pump pickup for any clogging or gunk.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Thanks moose will do

 

[coolasice]

If anyone is interested in seeing what a very bad front diff looks like..look at those bolt heads..geez

That thing looks like it was ran completely dry for a while. Moisture on the gears with rust and all.