After much aggravation, the compressor has been replaced.
It's very difficult to finagle it and it's bracket to leave enough space for the compressor to clear. Another pair of hands would've been helpful.
I got it all together, new little pulleys, all looks good!
Got the fan shroud and fan back in place (I'm getting good at doing this without disturbing the cooling system) and had every detail and bolt back in place.
NO START CONDITION! No spark!
10PM, I packed it in for the night and had a beer, I deserved it.
A crank but no spark condition on an LS engine is usually the crank sensor. I confirmed this by setting a code, cranking for 8 seconds or more twice.
The crank sensor is COVERED BY THE STARTER.
After removing the chassis sections to get to the starter and shoving it to the side, I unplugged the crank sensor. All looked good.
I discovered the crank sensor wires, starter wires and AC compressor wires are in one harness that passes under the engine. I need to get the wire off the starter to let the entire harness hang down to fully examine what's happened.
Of course it starts raining and I have a family thing tomorrow so my daily driver work vehicle won't be touched by me until Tuesday.
If only that damn pulley came off the compressor....
I decided to work on this after the Sunday family stuff. After removing the little nut from the starter and taking off the ringed start wire, I was able to slide the harness forward to hang down for inspection.
One wire in the crank sensor plug broke right in the plug. There's no way to repair this, it requires a plug with tails on it.
These wires were very brittle, as I moved them around, the insulation was cracking off. This was a ticking bomb, I'm kinda glad it happened in my driveway, not a zillion miles away. These are very thin gauge wires.
As luck would have it, my Trans Am is still without engine and I cut out the plug and installed it. I was gonna solder but considering the heat that builds up here, I used some tiny crimps and filled the ends with Permatex Ultra Blue. I stuffed it all in some OEM grade tubing.
I also wrapped up the start wire a bit where the insulation was cracked off.
I poked it all back into the chassis, got that confounded start wire back on the starter, bolted it up and it started.
Here's the plug and how the harness hangs down after pulling it out. There's just no way to repair this plug while up in the chassis, the starter's gotta be dropped and the start wire needs to come off.
Finished this at 10PM, minutes before the next rain storm. I'll get the chassis stuff buttoned up in the morning.
The threaded studs that the seat feet drop over are welded in from the bottom of the floor pan. Using a deep socket on an extension, I snapped them out and a hole remained. If for some reason I ever wanted to put the seat back in, I can pass new bolts through the holes.
In the rear section mount, there's two bolts that go into threaded holes in the floor pan. I simply left the bolts out.
I glued some plates over these openings from the inside. The next time I have it up on a lift, I'll schemer some Permatex Ultrablue over the holes. That stuff never comes off.
I took a nice long drive earlier this week with some friends up to Cooperstown to visit the Baseball Hall of Fame. The truck ran flawlessly, very nice. One passenger is in her 80's so the music was down. Now I know the rear control arms are a bit noisy.
Got back to NYC, dropped them off in midtown and I headed home.
Exited the midtown tunnel and the engine started bucking badly. The temp gauge was bouncing from minimum to maximum. I thought I was gonna bust my universal joints! Getting off the highway, it stalled, I got it re-started, I barely made it home. I considered myself lucky.
My '99 Trans-Am uses the same engine temperature sensor, I installed it into the truck and all is well again.
I haven't posted in a while. The truck is great as a daily driver. I've only needed to do oil & filter changes and the occasional lube job and screw in a tire.
It very recently developed a missfire. cylinder #5 so today I swapped coils for 3 & 5. Lets see if the problem follows the coil.
I've also had the occasional dreaded "low power mode", which is limp mode. Code reader says throttle position sensor. I got a TPS cap on ebay for $50 with shipping. Easier than I thought to install, let's see if that cures it.
Not seen in the photo are the AC crossover lines that went to the rear HVAC unit, I just removed them. I wasn't even able to locate the sensor with my hands, I think the lines were making it that much more difficult.
I'll do this one more time, I have a TBSS intake I'd like to install.
Hey folks, it's been a while, I've been busy trying to get my Monte going.
This year, I've only needed to do oil changes. But recently I've started doing a few more needed things:
-I did the fuel tank inlet mod so I can fill my tank again;
-I did a transmission service, filter & fluid. LOVE having a drain plug!
-Here's the big one. I was getting the dreaded "zero oil pressure at idle" issue. I opted to change the oil pump. This requires stripping down the nose of the truck. A lift is required. I obtained a Schumann's racing pump, ported, ball relief valve, O-ringed outlet along with a Rollmaster billet timing set, new GM ballancer, ARP crank bolt and a gasket & seal set. This job was a TON of work but very worth it. I now have 45 PSI at hot idle and 60 at highway speed, 70 PSI above 3,500 RPM. I believe the cause of the problem was a broken oil pump inlet O-ring. This engine is ready for another 280,000 thousand miles!
I'll next be doing a steering rack, it leaks like a half quart every three days.