Ascender Limited

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Then, the pulley is supposed to come off fairly easily with a three arm puller.

Not happening. The bearing is welded to whatever it's pressed into in the compressor body. :Banghead:

I gotta replace the compressor. Dammit.:badday:
It's always something, man. I replaced my tie rod ends the other day. One took ten minutes. The other took ninety. I knew there was a reason that I bought that pneumatic cutoff wheel.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
After much aggravation, the compressor has been replaced.

It's very difficult to finagle it and it's bracket to leave enough space for the compressor to clear. Another pair of hands would've been helpful.

I got it all together, new little pulleys, all looks good!

Got the fan shroud and fan back in place (I'm getting good at doing this without disturbing the cooling system) and had every detail and bolt back in place.

NO START CONDITION! No spark!:explode:

10PM, I packed it in for the night and had a beer, I deserved it.

A crank but no spark condition on an LS engine is usually the crank sensor. I confirmed this by setting a code, cranking for 8 seconds or more twice.

The crank sensor is COVERED BY THE STARTER.

After removing the chassis sections to get to the starter and shoving it to the side, I unplugged the crank sensor. All looked good.

I discovered the crank sensor wires, starter wires and AC compressor wires are in one harness that passes under the engine. I need to get the wire off the starter to let the entire harness hang down to fully examine what's happened.

Of course it starts raining and I have a family thing tomorrow so my daily driver work vehicle won't be touched by me until Tuesday.

If only that damn pulley came off the compressor....:hopeless:
IMG_20160729_191828737_zpsimlfhmah.jpg
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
I decided to work on this after the Sunday family stuff. After removing the little nut from the starter and taking off the ringed start wire, I was able to slide the harness forward to hang down for inspection.

One wire in the crank sensor plug broke right in the plug. There's no way to repair this, it requires a plug with tails on it.

These wires were very brittle, as I moved them around, the insulation was cracking off. This was a ticking bomb, I'm kinda glad it happened in my driveway, not a zillion miles away. These are very thin gauge wires.

As luck would have it, my Trans Am is still without engine and I cut out the plug and installed it. I was gonna solder but considering the heat that builds up here, I used some tiny crimps and filled the ends with Permatex Ultra Blue. I stuffed it all in some OEM grade tubing.

I also wrapped up the start wire a bit where the insulation was cracked off.

I poked it all back into the chassis, got that confounded start wire back on the starter, bolted it up and it started. :2thumbsup:

Here's the plug and how the harness hangs down after pulling it out. There's just no way to repair this plug while up in the chassis, the starter's gotta be dropped and the start wire needs to come off.

Finished this at 10PM, minutes before the next rain storm. I'll get the chassis stuff buttoned up in the morning.
IMG_20160731_195314281_zpsnzkz4bf8.jpg

IMG_20160731_210658997_zpsxft1ym0l.jpg
 
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Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Charged it up. Snowing in my truck.

Glad to put this behind me.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
I set aside today to finish the new carpeting install, the rear section.

These non-exact aftermarket carpets always need trimming and the jute is never much good.

I removed the jute backing from the old carpet and Gorilla taped it in place in the truck.

This is done. Rear seats are back in. Another thing off my list.

I think the only things I'm considering is a new starter and a new positive battery cable. Maybe in the far future I'll have a hard look at all my busted exhaust manifold bolts.
IMG_20160806_121414499_zpsqsmqrbgl.jpg


OH YEAH, I sealed up the bolt holes in the rear floor for the third row seat and of course, the new carpet doesn't have holes for them so it all looks nice.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
So you're not putting the third row back in? That's an interesting idea. That should give a lot of cargo room for sure and change the interior look.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
That's correct, when I picked up this truck I yanked the rear seat. 70 pounds!! This truck is dual purpose, work and daily driver. I'm able to fit a 10 foot a-frame ladder inside.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
OH YEAH, I sealed up the bolt holes in the rear floor for the third row seat and of course, the new carpet doesn't have holes for them so it all looks nice.

Kinda hard to tell from the pic, did you have to cut/grind off those rear studs? Or can they unscrew from below? I haven't gone under there to look...

I took my 3rd row out as well, have only needed to put people back there twice in the 7 years I've had it. Much easier to fit beach gear or hardware store goodies back there :yes:
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
The threaded studs that the seat feet drop over are welded in from the bottom of the floor pan. Using a deep socket on an extension, I snapped them out and a hole remained. If for some reason I ever wanted to put the seat back in, I can pass new bolts through the holes.

In the rear section mount, there's two bolts that go into threaded holes in the floor pan. I simply left the bolts out.

I glued some plates over these openings from the inside. The next time I have it up on a lift, I'll schemer some Permatex Ultrablue over the holes. That stuff never comes off.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
I took a nice long drive earlier this week with some friends up to Cooperstown to visit the Baseball Hall of Fame. The truck ran flawlessly, very nice. One passenger is in her 80's so the music was down. Now I know the rear control arms are a bit noisy.

Got back to NYC, dropped them off in midtown and I headed home.

Exited the midtown tunnel and the engine started bucking badly. The temp gauge was bouncing from minimum to maximum. I thought I was gonna bust my universal joints! Getting off the highway, it stalled, I got it re-started, I barely made it home. I considered myself lucky.

My '99 Trans-Am uses the same engine temperature sensor, I installed it into the truck and all is well again.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
I haven't posted in a while. The truck is great as a daily driver. I've only needed to do oil & filter changes and the occasional lube job and screw in a tire.

It very recently developed a missfire. cylinder #5 so today I swapped coils for 3 & 5. Lets see if the problem follows the coil.

I've also had the occasional dreaded "low power mode", which is limp mode. Code reader says throttle position sensor. I got a TPS cap on ebay for $50 with shipping. Easier than I thought to install, let's see if that cures it.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
I replaced the oil pressure sending unit-FOR THE THIRD TIME. This time, I did the remote mod.
intake.jpg
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Did you really have to pull the intake to get it out? I've done it without having to do that.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Not seen in the photo are the AC crossover lines that went to the rear HVAC unit, I just removed them. I wasn't even able to locate the sensor with my hands, I think the lines were making it that much more difficult.

I'll do this one more time, I have a TBSS intake I'd like to install.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
That's right, yours is like an EXT. I did it on my Saab, which is a shorty with just front A/C.
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Hey folks, it's been a while, I've been busy trying to get my Monte going.

This year, I've only needed to do oil changes. But recently I've started doing a few more needed things:

-I did the fuel tank inlet mod so I can fill my tank again;

-I did a transmission service, filter & fluid. LOVE having a drain plug!

-Here's the big one. I was getting the dreaded "zero oil pressure at idle" issue. I opted to change the oil pump. This requires stripping down the nose of the truck. A lift is required. I obtained a Schumann's racing pump, ported, ball relief valve, O-ringed outlet along with a Rollmaster billet timing set, new GM ballancer, ARP crank bolt and a gasket & seal set. This job was a TON of work but very worth it. I now have 45 PSI at hot idle and 60 at highway speed, 70 PSI above 3,500 RPM. I believe the cause of the problem was a broken oil pump inlet O-ring. This engine is ready for another 280,000 thousand miles!

I'll next be doing a steering rack, it leaks like a half quart every three days.
 

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Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Long time update here.

This past springtime, I changed the steering rack. What a lot of work this job was. It’s really difficult to get the steering shaft hooked up, the rack needs be dropped to get it. The lines need to be disconnected at the top and connected to the rack before putting it up and in. The hardline must be cut because it has a bend in it.

I had the dreaded upper windshield gutter rot, water started coming inside during heavy rain. I had my body shop fix it up and replace the sandblasted windshield.

More recently, the exhaust rotted at the muffler inlet and it was laying on the cross member for a while. Open exhaust is pretty loud! I finally got around to ordering a tailpipe with a resonator and I replaced the muffler with a few pieces of three inch AutoZone pipes. With just a resonator, it sounds great! It’s only loud when I really get on it and let the engine wind up.

I’m starting to notice some rust on the frame. The frame joint under the passenger seat has a hole through it. I’m gonna have some plates welded on. Other areas have some rust, including the rear springs. I’ll be ordering springs.

The body bushing washers are starting to rust. The one under the passenger door hinge is gone. I gotta work on addressing this problem.

The engine & trans work great but I’m concerned about the frame rust. And the tailgate bottom edges are rotting. The rest of the body is rust free.

A while back, I acquired a 14 bolt SS rear which I had rebuilt with an Eaton Trutrac diff and 3.73 gears. It sits in the shop.
 

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Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
These came in today, I found them at Amazon for $22.88 each with free shipping. A few hours after I ordered a pair, Amazon raised the price to $35.51 each. I shoulda got more!
bushing.jpg
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Here's an update on these body bushing kits.

These are ONLY for the two front mounts, left & right of the radiator.

All the other mounts have much shorter bolts. The shorter bolt is available from GM, part number: 11518079.

BUT the bushings and other components are the same. SO, if your bolts are in good shape, just swap the bolts.
 
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Salcedo1319

Member
Jan 8, 2020
1
Michigan
Hi Paul, I'm doing a 3 in Body Lift and 6 of my bushings need to be replaced, but GM no longer makes them. Will those dorman's 924-041 work in the back?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
That rust ain't bad.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Hi Paul, I'm doing a 3 in Body Lift and 6 of my bushings need to be replaced, but GM no longer makes them. Will those dorman's 924-041 work in the back?

These bushings are an upper and lower plus the bolt. The Dorman kit is all three components but the bolt is very long for the front locations.

The other locations take the same upper & lower bushings with the shorter bolt.

Are you using some sort of a lift kit offered on the aftermarket?
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
It’s been a while since I posted here but I’m due for an update.

My truck now has about 385,000 miles on it.

It’s had that maddening overheating problem because of the PCM controlled fan clutch. I’d get stuck in traffic and the temps would creep up. Then it runs away and I have to pull over. Even on a cool day, no AC used. Compounded by a mild coolant leak which I checked and topped off daily. The leak eluded me forever-more on that below.

I made the swap to an F-body shroud and fans. I wired them like F-body style, low speed both running in series at half speed, high speed in parallel at full speed. The fan clutch fuse gave me key on power trigger and I have the fans at low speed all the time. The full speed trigger will come off the AC compressor and a temp switch I’ll bury into the radiator. Maybe, eventually, I’ll have the PCM programmed for fan control. Thus far, this has worked out well, no more overheating.

The leak: It suddenly got worse and I could see it pouring from the pump. It was coming out as I added water to the radiator.

While it was a high flow BGW water pump I installed when I got the truck, that was 100,000+ miles ago. The bearings were shot & the shaft wobbled around. I swapped in a new one and a new thermostat for good measure and THAT problem is solved.

About a year ago, I had a body shop repair some rot in the upper windshield gutter and replace the original sandblasted glass. They did a nice job. The rear hatch door has the dreaded bottom edge rot getting worse by the day. The chassis has more rust on it than I’d like to see, I had some repair plates welded in the worst spots.

This truck is my daily driver/work truck and I do love it. I can fit a 10 foot A-frame ladder inside. I had big plans for this truck, I have a freshly built 14 bolt SS rear with an Eaton Detroit Truetrac and 3.73 gears ready to install but with all the rust, this truck is no longer a wise choice for this rear upgrade. The plan was to improve the engine power, etc. but that isn’t happening.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
Sounds like its time, considering your ladder comment, of trying to find a XUV?
 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
Sorry TollKeper, I'm just seeing this.

Yeah, I kinda looked at a Yukon BUT their wheelbase and bumper to bumper length is actually less than the long wheelbase version of these trucks. I don't want a long wheelbase Yukon or Suburban.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
I was suggesting the Envoy XUV, not a tahoe/yukon.

GMC Envoy XUV 2004 - YouTube


 

Paul Bell

Original poster
Member
Aug 16, 2014
460
OH! I need thicker glasses....
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO

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