Ascender Limited

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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#81
Dust collection system hose couplers. I'm using one to make up an LS7 style MAF sensor for the T/A.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#83
I think I have a bad (new) thermostat. While the gauge usually reads 210, sometimes it shoots up to 240/250 then shoots back down.

This may explain my difficulties bleeding the system, it takes forever for the T-stat to open and it's way hot when it does.

I'm looking at the 190 degree unit from Lingenfetler and a tune from my friends at PCM For Less.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#85
I'm not sure what brand it is.

I'm pretty convinced it's bad, I took a long highway drive yesterday and the temps kept wandering between 210 and 240. During steady cruising, it should settle at one temperature.

I've been in touch with PCM For Less and they can do my tune. They'll make it so the PCM calls for the fan to come on at 190.

I also want the transmission to downshift earlier in throttle percentage. It seems to lug a lot and I really need to step on it to downshift.
 
#86
You should also give Jeremy at Lime-Swap a try. He's a member here and has great service for less. His tunes go for just $99.

As for running the engine at a lower temperature, this used to be the standard in old hotrodding days but I don't know if modern engines will react well to a lower temperature, even if tuned. Have you done some research on this? Do you use the truck in winter? That lower temperature will also result in lower heater performance.
 

dmanns67

Well-Known Member
#87
Mooseman said:
You should also give Jeremy at Lime-Swap a try. He's a member here and has great service for less. His tunes go for just $99.

As for running the engine at a lower temperature, this used to be the standard in old hotrodding days but I don't know if modern engines will react well to a lower temperature, even if tuned. Have you done some research on this? Do you use the truck in winter? That lower temperature will also result in lower heater performance.
I know there is a lot of TBSS guys who run a 160* T-Stat on their LS2s. Not sure if the minimal amount of HP gain is worth running at that much of a cooler temp.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#88
Lime Swap looks interesting but they appear to be all about the 4.2L. I'm a long time client of PCM For Less and I support them over at LS1tech so....

I wouldn't run an engine below 180, my Trans Am is setup for 180-thermostat as well as fans. I feel that 190 is good for my everyday truck. Much lower and fuel consumption may increase as well as bad emissions.

Before I crack open my system again, I'm gonna do a Tech II test of the fan to confirm it's being called for when it should and that it's actually engaging. I still think it's the T-stat.

Thanks men!
 
#89
PCMof NC has been the go to of many forum members here and previously on Trailvoy for many years. I would never hesitate to use them again! Still what I consider one of the best mods I have done.
 
#90
Jeremy does do the 5.3L, it's just not advertised and it's at the same price as the 4.2L. I know that he doesn't have any spares as loaners so that might have something to do with it. Hit him up and see what he says.
 
#91
If price actually mattered, but it seems you are staying loyal, then about every holiday PCMofNC does a sale on tunes and some of other stuff, but you likely knew that.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#92
It turns out I have a fan clutch issue. I'll start a new thread in 5.3 performance.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#93
Meanwhile, I did oil, filter & front brake pads. Front pads are a PITA, one side the slider bolt was frozen in the bracket and I BROKE it in the bracket.

I have a tip for you guys: Regardless what Pep Boys or Auto Zone's system says, make sure visually that you get the correct bracket for i6 OR V8 brakes. You'll be unhappy if you have the wrong one :hissyfit:
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#94
I finally found time on a nice Sunday to install the Husky mud flaps I've had for a few weeks. As none were listed for an Ascender, they're for an Envoy. I was a little worried because the Ascender has unique fender flair moldings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSKY-LINERS-Mud-Flap-Guards-02-09-GMC-Envoy-Envoy-XL-XUV-FRONT-REAR-SET-/301717680688?vxp=mtr

The rears worked out well, there' sheet metal under most of the flap and I got some screws of mine to bite good. I didn't use the crappy screws the flaps came with.

The fronts are a different story. There's no sheet metal for bolting, just the leading edge of the lower body side molding. It's kinda soft so any screw driven into it didn't really bite. I ended up loosening the one bolt in the fender well to allow pulling the molding down enough to install some small stainless flat head bolts and lock nuts.

One more thing off The List!




 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#95
This afternoon, backing into me driveway the transmission slipped into neutral and the shifter moved freely when I tried to shift. I assumed the shifter cable end popped off the transmission linkage, I've experienced this before.

Whatever parts that are supposed to be in the end of the cable is gone, now it's just a stepped hole. I drilled and tapped the transmission linkage ball stud for a 8/32 stainless bolt, locked it in and cut it's head off. Put it all back together and installed a washer and nylon insert lock nut and all fixed.

BUT, why the heck was there fuel dripping by the rear end?? :eek: :mad: :crazy: :hissyfit:

My driveway is sloped downwards and I had the nose jacked up. The gas tank is full and is leaking around where the fill tube attached. It appears to have some epoxy or sealant around it, maybe a previous repair.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#96
This is a stock photo but it's the correct tank (from an XL). The ring at the arrow is covered in a thick bead of some sort of sealer. It's wet with fuel.

I suppose I'll try to dig it off and apply some fuel rated epoxy.
 
#97
That is a defect on 2002 and some 2003 EXT/XL trucks. There was an extended warranty that covered this but has since expired. The previous owner of my truck tried to fix it with epoxy but it didn't work. I was lucky and had it done by the dealer just before it expired.

If I were you, I'd scour the boneyards for an EXT with a newer tank.
 

Capote

Platinum Supporter
#98
Paul Bell said:
This afternoon, backing into me driveway the transmission slipped into neutral and the shifter moved freely when I tried to shift. I assumed the shifter cable end popped off the transmission linkage, I've experienced this before.

Whatever parts that are supposed to be in the end of the cable is gone, now it's just a stepped hole. I drilled and tapped the transmission linkage ball stud for a 8/32 stainless bolt, locked it in and cut it's head off. Put it all back together and installed a washer and nylon insert lock nut and all fixed.

BUT, why the heck was there fuel dripping by the rear end?? :eek: :mad: :crazy: :hissyfit:

My driveway is sloped downwards and I had the nose jacked up. The gas tank is full and is leaking around where the fill tube attached. It appears to have some epoxy or sealant around it, maybe a previous repair.
Damn well that was unfortunate brother, at least it occurred in the driveway. I went a week having to crawl underneath and switch gears by hand [emoji58]
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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#99
Capote said:
Damn well that was unfortunate brother, at least it occurred in the driveway. I went a week having to crawl underneath and switch gears by hand [emoji58]
heeheehee, my E-brake doesn't work, I needed somebody to grab my 747 chocks outta the garage. I can't imagine driving around and needing do get under & do it.
Mooseman said:
That is a defect on 2002 and some 2003 EXT/XL trucks. There was an extended warranty that covered this but has since expired. The previous owner of my truck tried to fix it with epoxy but it didn't work. I was lucky and had it done by the dealer just before it expired.

If I were you, I'd scour the boneyards for an EXT with a newer tank.
Yeah, just my luck. I'm not gonna go through all that, I'm gonna let the tank get low, pull the tire, scrape the old gunk off and apply my own new gunk.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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OH the joys of having a flat tire. I'm soo lucky a few months ago I replaced the spare tire hoist.

I've discovered what I'm sure most of you guys already knew-the original bottle jack SUCKS.

Luckily, I was two short blocks from a Pep Boys. I bought a nice scissor jack and a socket that slips over the turning eye. I used this to spin it with my Makita drill. It lifted the truck right up! Why do I even have pump floor jacks in my shop? Who wants them?

My spare-that's another story. It's so rusted by the time I (slowly) drove home like only three miles away, the lug nuts were loose. The lug holes in the wheel just crushed thinner. I'm gonna look for another wheel.

 
We never really think about the spare until we need it. I've seen that happen with rusty wheels. Luckily you didn't have far to go.

Way cool idea with the scissor jack!
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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I wasn't able to make the time (since August) to do the work and wasn't looking forward to doing it on a sloped driveway so I had the same shop that did my transmission swap do the front end work using the parts I bought:

Upper & lower control arms;
Upper & lower ball joints;
Inner & outer tie-rod ends;
Wheel hubs:
Alignment.

It was REALLY bad. Plus one of my hubs had a cracked ABS reluctor that caused the ABS to operate at very low speeds like stop & go traffic.

I STILL have a very annoying MAF issue, P0101 keeps coming up. It'll run great for hours then stumble and barely run. I installed a NEW ACDelco MAF. I found one PCM plug just full of oil and gunk, I cleaned it out real well and figured that had to be it. Nope!
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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My master cylinder went bad. Not a good time, finally wintery here so I turned it over to a shop for the work. While they had it, they welded plates on the L & R chassis just ahead of the front suspension. The rust bulged through the bottom.

I also had them do an oil & filter change, rear rotors & pads and re-did the epoxy on the gas tank fill pipe.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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ANNNDDDD the new master cylinder is bad. This is the first time I let this shop buy the part, I'm sure they used the standard parts house brand. I'm gonna request they now use a ACDelco OEM grade unit.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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UPDATE. Before the shop changed the MC, they went over everything again. They just couldn't believe the unit they got was bad.

Good thing too, they found a leaking line, it crosses near the steering rack. The line was up against a steering fitting and rubbed through.

Now, here's the thing: Sometimes, the line would hold pressure, then it would leak. Then it held pressure again. Weird, eh? All signs pointed to the master cylinder.

All is good now!
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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Hardline. In a tough to get at spot.
 
Just looking at your earlier post about the tank, check with a dealer to see if your truck qualifies for the extended warranty. It was re-issued with an even longer coverage period.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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My truck now has like 240,000 miles on it. Any warranty they offered ends at 150. AND there's no dealership anywhere near me that'll work on this truck.
 

mntb

Well-Known Member
Did you need to have a tune for the new larger intake or did it run fine without a tune? I'm thinking of doing a simular home made intake.
Did you plug the hole when you removed the air silencer thing in the air box? If so, what did you use?
I just can't justify or afford a cold air intake for $100+.
Good work so far. I haven't even thought about the spare. Lol. I'm thinking I should drop it or at least try to, and inspect the wheel/tire and the hoist.
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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No, I didn't do a tune.

Yes, I glued a smooth piece of plastic cut from a Wonton soup container. Always satisfying two hungers!
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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I've had the dreaded and annoying "AC from the floor or defrost vents ONLY" issue with my truck since I got it, going on two years now.

AND, the AC has never blown very cold, despite new hoses and condenser and the refrigerant having been done properly. I assumed the temp mix actuator in the HVAC box was bad.

To do this, I had planned to yank the seats and console to get to the million screws in the console to get to the box and also install a sorely needed new carpet. I picked the coolest day this week to do this project, 80 degrees!

What a pain it is to get the dash outta these trucks! And the HVAC box was still pretty un-accessible.

The floor/dash actuator was bad, I could turn it by hand. New ones can't be turned by hand. BUT, it's gear doesn't seem to mesh or engage the gear on the flapper shaft. I could see the new one turning but as it wasn't engaging the gear on the shaft, it wasn't doing anything.:Banghead:

What's up with this?!?? :badday:

Now, this all was a ton of work, did I mention I'm 53? I don't mind doing jobs like this but after all this, not having done the repair is very frustrating.

Has anybody else done this?
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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Before I did this, using the AC never produced very cold air and the engine temps would climb and not come down until I shut the AC.

This has been cured. It blows ice cold and engine temps climbed only slightly.

I suppose I "fixed" it but the dash vents will forever work. Going to defrost and they still work-but there is some air at the windshield. I guess I can shut each vent if I really need the defrost.
 
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OMG.:wowfaint: What did you do to the poor truck. I am currently dealing with the same problem with the air blowing through the vents on the dash and floor. I only took out the knee panels below the steering wheel. Not sure I would go through all that for the actuators only. But I hope your hard work pays off :2thumbsup:
 
Been there, done that and ripped the T-shirt. I had to replace the A/C evaporator so the whole HVAC had to come out.

But, IIRC, there is only one actuator that is partially blocked by a metal brace, which can be cut out to allow the actuator to be removed. don't remember which one but it's on the passenger side. I would not have gone that far for an actuator. Evaporator I had no choice.

Engineers. Hate them!
 
Been there, done that and ripped the T-shirt. I had to replace the A/C evaporator so the whole HVAC had to come out.

But, IIRC, there is only one actuator that is partially blocked by a metal brace, which can be cut out to allow the actuator to be removed. don't remember which one but it's on the passenger side. I would not have gone that far for an actuator. Evaporator I had no choice.

Engineers. Hate them!
Not all Engineers I hope. Planning to become an engineer :2thumbsup: :rotfl::rotfl:
 
The ones that don't talk to each other that put a part or bolt that's inaccessible because of some lame brace or frame piece. Or the ones that hollow out a compressor bolt mount that allows water and salt in to rust it there solid (Honda).
 
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Paul Bell

Paul Bell

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While the AC has been working great, the compressor bearing started screaming. My local shop quoted "could be a grand..." I decided to do some researching.

I discovered the pulley bearing could be changed without removing the compressor from the vehicle or disturbing the refrigerant. There's a full write up on a site with pics. The bearing itself is TWELVE BUCKS at AutoZone. No brainer, eh? :2thumbsup: While I'm at it, the little pulleys screech when cold so I got the two tensioners and one pulley.

I had to dig out the fan and fan shroud. No prob, we do this all the time, right guys? 30 minutes and I was looking at the compressor.:biggrin:

The bearing is real bad, with a mirror, I could see the balls stacked up on one side.

There's a snap ring that was a huge bitch to get out-one full hour of cursing.

Then, the pulley is supposed to come off fairly easily with a three arm puller.

Not happening. The bearing is welded to whatever it's pressed into in the compressor body. :Banghead:

I gotta replace the compressor. Dammit.:badday:
 
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