NEED HELP AC cool not cold

MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
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New York
Hi guys,
I’d really appreciate some help, I have a 2006 trailblazer LT 4.2 Engine with 96,000 miles , I can’t get cold air out of the air conditioning to save my life, all lines are cold with condensation and no ice on anything , the compressor is kicking on and off and seems to be working fine ,fully charged with 134 and no leaks, can’t get anything lower than 55° at the vents, have to run it wide open pretty much continuously to just be fairly comfortable, I think next I will shoot for the orifice tube but would hate to drain everything if not necessary, any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,358
Ottawa, ON

MPB

Original poster
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Feb 26, 2023
24
New York
check your vent actuators.
That’s one of the first things I tested, the actuators are all opening and closing properly, it switches between defrost floor and Vents like it should, it blows nice and hard it’s just not getting cold enough
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,358
Ottawa, ON
Maybe try relearning the actuators. With the key off, pull the HVAC-B fuse for 10 seconds, put it back and turn the key to RUN. Let it do its relearn without touching anything.
 

MPB

Original poster
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Feb 26, 2023
24
New York
Maybe try relearning the actuators. With the key off, pull the HVAC-B fuse for 10 seconds, put it back and turn the key to RUN. Let it do its relearn without touching anything.
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B?
 

MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
24
New York
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B?
What are the symptoms of a plugged or partially plugged orifice tube? Would it ice up the dryer or what?
 

mrrsm

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If the Refrigerant Level is Low ... The smallest amount of Moisture contamination passing through the Expansion Tubes just ahead of the Dirty Filter Screen - Orifice Tube can FREEZE SOLID inside of the Tiny Evaporator Tubes as the Hot Liquid Freon expands suddenly and has a premature Phase Change as a "Flash Over" from a Liquid to a Gas... and FREEZE that Moisture into a solid plug or pellet that can block the small nested tubing beyond the Orifice Tube.

The Evaporator will Ice Over on its Fins in the Cab and a Cold Fog will exude from the Air Vents until that Solid Ice Pellet finally sublimates gradually back into Water Vapor on the Low Pressure Vapor Line return side of the system. The A/C will not function again until the Evaporator Thaws Out the Ice made from Water Vapor collected from the Cabin Atmosphere... and then, only cool briefly before the whole Vicious Cycle repeats itself.
 
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MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
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New York
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B?
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B
If the Refrigerant Level is Low ... The smallest amount of Moisture contamination passing through the Expansion Tubes just ahead of the Dirty Filter Screen - Orifice Tube can FREEZE SOLID inside of the Tiny Evaporator Tubes as the Hot Liquid Freon expands suddenly and has a premature Phase Change as a "Flash Over" from a Liquid to a Vapor... and FREEZE that Moisture into a solid plug or pellet that can block the small nested tubing beyond the Orifice Tube.

The Evaporator will Ice Over on its Fins in the Cab and a Cold Fog will exude from the Air Vents until that Solid Ice Pellet finally sublimates gradually back into Water Vapor on the Low Pressure Vapor Line return side of the system. The A/C will not function again until the Evaporator Thaws Out the Ice made from Water Vapor collected from the Cabin Atmosphere... and then, only cool briefly before the whole Vicious Cycle repeats itself.
Well none of that seems to be happening so I guess my orfice tube is not plugged, no ice or fog anywhere, all lines and evaporator nice and cold with condensation like they should but it’s not blowing out ice cold in the cab just cool.
 

mrrsm

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"Pick Your Poison" from this selection of Freon Gas Detectors and then look for a Refrigerant Leak of R-134A coming from the Evaporator. Leave the Fan setting "OFF" so that there is no movement of air. Remember to resist the urge to *Test the Tester* by exposing the delicate Sensor Bulb inside the unit to a direct blast of Pure Refrigerant... or it will instantly Burn Out:

 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,358
Ottawa, ON
Which fuse box is the HVAC – B fuse in, under the hood or under the backseat? Is it labeled HVAC -B?
Rear seat. It is labelled HVAC-B
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,358
Ottawa, ON
what gages are you using to determine your operating levels?
Yes, you need to use a proper set of gauges to assess proper pressures. I know that an overcharged system will not cool well.
 
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MPB

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New York
Maybe try relearning the actuators. With the key off, pull the HVAC-B fuse for 10 seconds, put it back and turn the key to RUN. Let it do its relearn without touching anything.
So is it actually safe to pull that fuse? Someone told me that they get dry and brittle and they can break and then you’re screwed, if I pull that fuse and relearn them it should not screw up anything correct? Also I only have a low side service port gauge and it’s at 38 psi in the green zone, it’s been holding that same charge for over a year, I also just tested the system with black light and die and there’s no leaks, I stuck a thermometer in the middle vent and while idling it’s blowing 42° not in recirculation mode, when I’m driving 55 miles an hour with recirculation on it gets down to 39°, that’s with a ambient temperature of 75°, that doesn’t seem cold enough does it to you? Thanks
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,358
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Here's the deal. You're already having issues with the A/C. The actuators will do a relearn which will take them to both ends of their travel until they stop. If they are good, there will be no issues. If they are borderline from failing, they will likely break from the relearn but they would have broken anyway sooner or later. Just yank that band-aid.
 
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budwich

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Jun 16, 2013
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kanata
you don't have good enough information from a single "can gage". You need to at least know what the compressor is doing. You stated "fully charged" but how was that determined? Again, a "low side" measurement means little unless you know for sure how much weight of 134 is in the system.
 
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Mooseman

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mrrsm

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Nominal A/C Low and High A/C Manifold Gauge Pressures:

NOMINALACGAUGESETREADINGS.jpg

Refer to HVAC.PDF, HVAC2.PDF and HVAC3.PDF ...All Excerpted from the 2002-2005 Trailblazer OEM Sub-Manuals after you Download the OEM Digital Manual at the Link Below for the Ambient Temperature vs. In-Line Pressures vs the expected Cool Air Temps Exiting the Center Dash Console Areas for more Information:

 
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mrrsm

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Inquire about the Location of the High Side Service Port from other HVAC SMEs.... The Diagrams for the 2006 may vary from the Early Model Trailblazers & Envoys... The Low Side is ON the Accumulator for feeding in VAPOR ONLY from the Canned R-134A and so... Avoid Slugging the Low Side of the A/C Compressor with PURE LIQUID Refrigerant by Tipping the Can UPSIDE DOWN or more than at a 3:00 O'clock Tilt. The Compressor is designed to move Refrigerant as a VAPOR ONLY... Just Sayin'.
 
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jsinga

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Jan 5, 2014
38
GA
does the compressor cycle if rpms are at 1800? if it does it's still a little low on R134a. I doesn't take much to keep the temp from cooling down.
 

MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
24
New York
Hence also my suggestion. A gauge set is like $40-50 on Amazon and HF.

So I’ll be buying a set of manifolds next week, I do have another question, I have the automatic climate control, I push and hold the auto button in to put controls of both sides onto the driver side, when I turn the driver side climate control all the way to the left into the blue I noticed it only brings the fan speed up 3/4, in order to get the fan speed to run on high I have to use the fan speed arrow up button manually to get it to go the rest of the way up to high, is that normal? I would think if you turned the dial all the way to the left into the blue it would run the fan speed all the way up to high? if not normal could that also not be turning the temperature all the way up also? also if you take it out of driver side control the passenger dial does the same thing and only takes the fan speed 3/4 of the way up. Just a thought thanks
 

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Chevy Trailblazer climate control reset instructions:​

If the climate control system in your Chevy Trailblazer is broken, it could be the result of potential problems like electrical malfunctions, refrigerant leaks, or even a faulty air compressor. Those are the most common reasons for a Trailblazer’s HVAC system to turn haywire—and depending on the root of the issue, you may need more professional assistance.

But before you rush to your nearest mechanic, it’s worthwhile to run a climate control reset first. If you suspect the HVAC issue in your Trailblazer is electrical, a system reset can correct minor bugs and restore your HVAC to working order. Below are the steps to follow to re-calibrate your HVAC actuator in a GM vehicle:

Step 1: Turn off the car. When dealing with electrical fuses in your car, it’s best to make sure the engine is off first!

Step 2: Disconnect the battery for one minute. Alternatively, you can remove the HVAC 10 amp fuse in the fuse box, which is typically located in the engine compartment. This can vary by model year, so be sure to check your owner’s manual to confirm the location of your car’s fuse box.

Step 3: Reconnect the battery. If you chose to remove the HVAC amp fuse instead, reconnect it.

Step 4: Start your engine. DO NOT touch the A/C controls yet! First, let the car run for one to two minutes.

Step 5: Turn off the Ignition for 10 to 20 seconds, then restart your engine and test the A/C controls.

Following these steps should reset your Chevy Trailblazer’s climate controls automatically. But if the A/C’s still not working, it may be time to do some more troubleshooting.

Early Chevy models climate control reset instructions​

If you own an older Trailblazer model released in the early 2000s, you might have to try a different method to reset your climate controls. Upgrades to the Trailblazer’s HVAC controls over the years have made the process of resetting newer systems slightly different than in older ones. If you own an early 2000s Trailblazer, try these steps instead:

Step 1: Park your vehicle outside (or keep the garage doors open) and turn on your key
. All in all, re-calibrating your A/C will take about 5-7 minutes and require you to run your car for at least two minutes.

Step 2: Set the A/C on auto control. Even if your system isn’t working properly, let it automatically take over for now while you continue with the reset.

Step 3: Turn the ignition back off. Make sure the A/C is still set on auto; when your car starts again, it should automatically turn on the A/C too, which is necessary for recalibrating the system.

Step 4: Locate the fuse box. Keep your engine off for this part! Most of the time, you’ll find your fuse box in the engine compartment beneath the hood, toward the driver’s side. Sometimes, it will be labeled as the “Fuse and Relay box.” Its exact placement can vary by model year, so you may need to consult your owner’s manual for the exact location in your Trailblazer.

Step 5: Locate and remove the HVAC battery fuse. Once you remove the cover, you’ll notice markings inside the lid that serve as a diagram of your fuse box, and you can use it to figure out which fuse is the HVAC battery fuse. Look for a red 10-amp fuse.

Step 6: Inspect the HVAC battery fuse. If it’s blown, now is the perfect time to replace it. If it’s not, wait 60 seconds before reconnecting it. Your HVAC ECM needs at least a minute to reset itself. After a minute, you can reinstall the fuse; this should restore your car’s A/C back to factory mode.

Step 7: Start your engine. Your A/C should automatically start blowing—and it should also be automatically set at 74 degrees. This is the original temperature at which your A/C was set in the factory and a sign that your system is resetting itself. DO NOT touch your A/C controls for at least 60 seconds.

Step 8: Shut off the engine for 10 to 20 seconds. Make sure you don’t leave it off for longer than 30 seconds, or the reset may not work.

Step 9: Start your vehicle and test the A/C.

If all your A/C needed was a quick calibration, your system should be back to functioning like normal. If not, the problem could be related to something else.

Other reasons your Chevy Trailblazer A/C isn’t working:​

Re-calibrating your Chevy’s A/C can solve simple electrical issues with your climate controls… most of the time. But if your reset attempt fails, you may be dealing with a different issue. Here are a few other reasons your Chevy Trailblazer’s A/C could be failing:

Refrigerant leak​

Refrigerant leaks are a common problem when it comes to A/C malfunctions. Without adequate levels of refrigerant in your HVAC system, your A/C loses its cooling capacity.

Luckily, it’s an easy fix—just refill the refrigerant levels and you’re good to go! Just make sure that you find and seal any leaks to prevent the problem from recurring.

A/C Compressor Failure:​

If it’s not a blown fuse or refrigerant leak, the issue could be with your A/C’s air compressor. The A/Cr compressor is central to your A/C: it works together with your condenser to cool the air that’s blown out of your car’s vents. When your A/C Compressor—or the relay that powers it—stops working properly, so does your HVAC system. In this case, you’ll need an A/C compressor replacement.

Dirty Cabin Air Filter:​

Replacing your cabin air filter is a regular part of Chevy basic car maintenance —but if you haven’t cleaned or replaced yours in a while, you may start to notice a dip in your A/C’s performance. A dirty cabin air filter will result in reduced airflow and ventilation—and the added strain on your A/C and engine could lead to lower fuel economy if left alone. Most manufacturers recommend replacing your cabin air filter every 10,000-20,000 miles or so, but cleaning it regularly may help it last a little longer.

Bad Blower Motor:​

A loss of A/C airflow in your Chevy Trailblazer could be the result of a bad blower motor. If yours is broken, you’ll have to replace it entirely.

Faulty Blend Door Actuator:​

If you notice a clicking or light tapping sound coming from beneath your dashboard, a faulty blend door actuator could be to blame. Blend door actuators help control airflow in your Trailblazer’s cabin, but if yours is on the fritz you may experience a problem with controlling your A/C’s temperature—such as only getting hot air and no cold air, or the other way around. To fix it, you’ll need a mechanic’s help.

How to Diagnose a Chevy Trailblazer climate control malfunction

The problems above are just some of the potential reasons your Chevy Trailblazer’s A/C could be malfunctioning. But they’re not the only potential causes of A/C malfunctions—a dirty or clogged condenser, dirty evaporator, or even a wonky wiring harness could be behind the issue.

Before you address your A/C malfunction, it’s important to know what’s at the root of the problem before attempting to make a repair. If you have an onboard diagnostics (OBD) scan tool, you can get an

OBD code or trouble code to help narrow down the source of the issue. Alternatively, you can bring your Chevy to a local mechanic for more professional assistance. If you choose the mechanic route, be sure to work with someone that’s Trained and Certified in HVAC repairs, since working with A/C refrigerant requires additional expertise.


Source and Credit to:


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budwich

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Jun 16, 2013
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kanata
I don't believe "auto" causes the fan to go to max regardless of where the temp is set. Your problem is more likely to be a poor charge of 134 than anything else.
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Ottawa, ON
Ditto. I had a 2002 and 2006 with auto HVAC and neither would go to max fan on their own. Had to use the fan control.
 

MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
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New York
Ditto. I had a 2002 and 2006 with auto HVAC and neither would go to max fan on their own. Had to use the fan control.
Mine does, i’m doing it right now, if you’re on auto with the air conditioning on and you turn the driver’s temperature dial left into the blue the fan speed picks up, if you turn that same dial to the right into the red the fan speed slows down, my problem is when I turn the temperature dial all the way to the left into the blue, the fan speed only goes 3/4 of the way up not all the way.
 

MPB

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Feb 26, 2023
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New York
Ditto. I had a 2002 and 2006 with auto HVAC and neither would go to max fan on their own. Had to use the fan control.
Now if I touch the fan speed up or down button it takes it out of auto and then the Dials do not make the fan speed go up and down, only when it’s in Auto
 

budwich

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Jun 16, 2013
2,053
kanata
Mine does, i’m doing it right now, if you’re on auto with the air conditioning on and you turn the driver’s temperature dial left into the blue the fan speed picks up, if you turn that same dial to the right into the red the fan speed slows down, my problem is when I turn the temperature dial all the way to the left into the blue, the fan speed only goes 3/4 of the way up not all the way.
I don't think you are understanding what was said. IF you set your AC to auto, the system will NOT put the fan its highest level regardless of the temperature setting that you want to adjust to. YES, it will select a HIGHER speed "automatically" IF that is required in the "auto" program BUT that is not the HIGHEST speed for the fan. You can only select the highest speed by using the fan speed adjust as you have found. AND you have found that touching the fan speed takes it out of "auto"... that is expected since you have decided that you want control, not the "auto" program.... "AUTO" is not just a temperature control.... in fact, that is what the temperature knobs are for. The "auto" program is there to let the system find its way to the temperature setting is a form that it decides (ie. as programmed by GM).
 
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MPB

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New York
I don't think you are understanding what was said. IF you set your AC to auto, the system will NOT put the fan its highest level regardless of the temperature setting that you want to adjust to. YES, it will select a HIGHER speed "automatically" IF that is required in the "auto" program BUT that is not the HIGHEST speed for the fan. You can only select the highest speed by using the fan speed adjust as you have found. AND you have found that touching the fan speed takes it out of "auto"... that is expected since you have decided that you want control, not the "auto" program.... "AUTO" is not just a temperature control.... in fact, that is what the temperature knobs are for. The "auto" program is there to let the system find its way to the temperature setting is a form that it decides (ie. as programmed by GM).
OK gotcha, so when I turn the temperature dial all the way to the left into the blue it doesn’t supposed to take the fan all the way to high when it’s in auto, I thought it was being said if you turn the temperature dial one way or the other the fan speed will not increase or decrease and that it was only used to set the temperature, Well that’s good to know because it answers my original question, if you turn the temperature dial all the way to the left does it supposed to take the fan speed all the way to max, so now I know the answer is no, thanks
 

mrrsm

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Since you are just getting yourself a Brand New A/C Manifold Gauge Set... Watch Paul "Scanner" Danner covering practically EVERYTHING involved with Basic A/C Leak Detection, Repairs and Re-Charge Diagnostics with some very clever ways to move this process along... useful for everyone facing A/C Issues... and a Good Procedural Tune Up for those of us who don't regularly perform their own HVAC Work:

 
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