- Dec 8, 2011
- 1,179
same..and I wouldnt want it to backup and have pressure causing a leak or the stick to fly out (like some ss cobalts have had happen from oil pressure)
ConeKilrAutoX said:same..and I wouldnt want it to backup and have pressure causing a leak or the stick to fly out (like some ss cobalts have had happen from oil pressure)
jimmyjam said:if you've got a money tree, check out comp oilless turbos
limequat said:I vote for drilling the pan on the vehicle over a scavenge pump. Many people do this, and if you're careful you'll have no problems.
Here's a method that I haven't seen anyone try, but I think it could work pretty well:
1) Over fill your engine by 3-4 quarts.
2) Drill hole
3) Over filled oil pushes shavings right back out the hole you just made
4) Drain completely, refill
Even if you do get shavings in your pan, the pickup screen will catch most of it. Anything small enough to fit through the screen won't damage your engine. Besides aluminum from the pan is softer than almost anything you could be concerned about.
ConeKilrAutoX said:i will definitely keep that in mind. that just scares me without being able to take oil pan off because id like to weld the inside and outside of the return bung. how long was your return line in the supra?
limequat said:Probably about 14". It's a straight shot, but the turbo is mounted kinda high.
gmcman said:I don't think the dipstick tube would work especially with cold oil, likely too small.
The fill cap may be a bad idea also since I have tried to pour oil through a funnel too fast and it wouldn't keep up in the cam cover.
One option is to tap the cam cover in front or the side and this way you can guarantee the scavenging pump would not back up. I would also install some type of gauge that reads low pressure near the pump to monitor if the pump fails.
I think if you tap the pan you could use a vacuum and suck the shavings hoping to catch as much as you can and when you poke through, after you finish, take a pipe cleaner, make a right angle and wipe the bottom of the pan through the drain hole. May draw some shavings towards the drain.
Just a thought.
ConeKilrAutoX said:great info. Yes I have officially given up on the oil pump. too much failure risk both mechanically and electrically. I will tap the oil pan using all the suggestions I have received so far and I will just externally weld a bung to the pan for my return.
thanks all.
would a 115v lincoln electric mig do the trick? without gas?
I have heard of Jb quick weld but I dont know about that on something so important.
also I have heard no 90 degree bends but I would need a 90 degree 10 an fitting to return the to the pan
ConeKilrAutoX said:great info. Yes I have officially given up on the oil pump. too much failure risk both mechanically and electrically. I will tap the oil pan using all the suggestions I have received so far and I will just externally weld a bung to the pan for my return.
thanks all.
would a 115v lincoln electric mig do the trick? without gas?
I have heard of Jb quick weld but I dont know about that on something so important.
also I have heard no 90 degree bends but I would need a 90 degree 10 an fitting to return the to the pan
limequat said:some of those "90 deg" A/n fittings actually have a decent radius to them.
You're not gonna have good luck welding al with a mig. I would suggest tapping the pan with 1/2" NPT then threading in a nipple. No welding. Gop some silicone on the threads and it will never leak.
limequat said:some of those "90 deg" A/n fittings actually have a decent radius to them.
You're not gonna have good luck welding al with a mig. I would suggest tapping the pan with 1/2" NPT then threading in a nipple. No welding. Gop some silicone on the threads and it will never leak.
ConeKilrAutoX said:perfect thats what I like to here. no welding lol I will be doing this for sure. Thanks...your ALWAYS saving my a** haha
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perfect thats what I like to here. no welding lol I will be doing this for sure. Thanks...your ALWAYS saving my a** haha
limequat said:Lol, I got plenty experience with NPT and silicone sealant when trying to adapt the supra oil pressure sensor to the 4200. Messy! But no leaks!
ConeKilrAutoX said:great! works for me. 1/2 in npt tap?
limequat said:ish. You might wanna check and see what's available for fittings and taps. As a general rule of thumb, your drain should be twice as big as your feed.
ConeKilrAutoX said:thats what I was thinking. I no on my old zx we used a 10 an I found a 10 an male to 3/4 npt male that I would screw into the tap. my drain can be 10 an because I still have a few parts left over from the zx build/demo lol
here is what I have and is this the tap I should get?
View attachment 11161View attachment 11162
limequat said:some of those "90 deg" A/n fittings actually have a decent radius to them.
You're not gonna have good luck welding al with a mig. I would suggest tapping the pan with 1/2" NPT then threading in a nipple. No welding. Gop some silicone on the threads and it will never leak.
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some of those "90 deg" A/n fittings actually have a decent radius to them.
You're not gonna have good luck welding al with a mig. I would suggest tapping the pan with 1/2" NPT then threading in a nipple. No welding. Gop some silicone on the threads and it will never leak.
scorpio1 said:This is completely spitballing a suggestion for the return and it may not help with dropping the pan issue..... but...
When turbo-ing the L61 Ecotec Engine in the Cavaliers and sunfires, there is an issue with tapping into the Oil pan because it was pretty shallow where the best location to tap was, and people were worried about the oil pressure building back into the return. (Like you worried about.)
Long story short, the solution was to drill down through the block at an angle, just above the oil pan, and down into the pan, essentially creating a drain passage through the block into pan.
Like I said, this doesn't save the dropping the pan issue, and I don't know if its feasible on the 4.2, as I haven't had my TrailBlazer long enough to even change the oil yet, let alone get under it... But if feed angle, length or whatever is an issue for the returns location, this may be an option.
Hope that helps or inspires something for ya to think about, if not, free thread bump.
Love the build, and I'll be following along, look forward to reading more posts.
scorpio1 said:This is completely spitballing a suggestion for the return and it may not help with dropping the pan issue..... but...
When turbo-ing the L61 Ecotec Engine in the Cavaliers and sunfires, there is an issue with tapping into the Oil pan because it was pretty shallow where the best location to tap was, and people were worried about the oil pressure building back into the return. (Like you worried about.)
Long story short, the solution was to drill down through the block at an angle, just above the oil pan, and down into the pan, essentially creating a drain passage through the block into pan.
Like I said, this doesn't save the dropping the pan issue, and I don't know if its feasible on the 4.2, as I haven't had my TrailBlazer long enough to even change the oil yet, let alone get under it... But if feed angle, length or whatever is an issue for the returns location, this may be an option.
Hope that helps or inspires something for ya to think about, if not, free thread bump.
Love the build, and I'll be following along, look forward to reading more posts.