4.2 Envoy Turbo Build

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Hello all,
Does anyone know where I can find the 3 connectors for a 2006 PCM?
I have the 2004 pcm and I am doing a swap to the 2006. I bought a 2006 pcm already and I just need the connectors so I can pin out the old one into the new one.

Thank you!

 

[ScarabEpic22]

Ive been wanting someone to do this! Ive got a few P12s at home and a P10 Ive hacked apart to do this, just didnt buy the connectors and wires yet (started this back in 0 :doh.

Email the guys at EFI Connection, LLC - Welcome to www.eficonnection.com, their prices aren't cheap, but neither are factory GM connectors.

 

[Sparky]

What's the reason for the PCM change? Also, aren't there several sensors and such that changed in 2006? Or is that programmable for the older style?

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

What's the reason for the PCM change? Also, aren't there several sensors and such that changed in 2006? Or is that programmable for the older style?

Well I need the 06 pcm because I am installing a garret turbo in the envoy and the 04 pcm that I have HATES boost and goes into reserved power mode but the 06 Pcm loves boost I am having it tuned on hptuner for that, 80lb injectors, and timing retarding when in boost and a cobalt SS MAF.

I will be matching up the pins and wires from my current 04 harness to the 06 and what ever doesnt match I will figure something out.

I am still in the early stages of the build... i expect to have it done by January as it is my only daily driver and most of the piping and welding will be assembled outside the vehicle for the most part and then I will fit in when I take off 2 weeks of work.

 

[Mooseman]

Get in touch with Limequat. He's swapped a turbo'ed I6 into a Supra.

 

[oh05ext]

have you tried finding someone parting out a totaled truck on craigslist or to pull it salvage yard???

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Get in touch with Limequat. He's swapped a turbo'ed I6 into a Supra.

he is doing my tune and supplying me with the injecrors

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

have you tried finding someone parting out a totaled truck on craigslist or to pull it salvage yard???

I have been trying and as of now no luck yet but im going to do some serious searching after work today

 

[limequat]

Go to gmpartsdirect.com, punch in these numbers, get these prices:

C1 - 88953346 - $31.52
C2 - 88953274 - $18.82
C3 - 88953347 - $6.56

These do not inlcude terminals, but you'll get everything else. I've yet to find a source for pins, but I'm 90% sure you can use your P10 pins in the P12 connectors. Eficonnection.com will sell you P10 pins and probably send you to a dealer for connectors.

Two of the above connectors can be found in pick-n-pulls from 2005+ cobalts/ions. I've personally confirmed that they fit the P12 PCM, but you'll have to do some re-pinning. Given gmpartsdirect.com's pricing, you're probably better of getting them new.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Go to gmpartsdirect.com, punch in these numbers, get these prices:

C1 - 88953346 - $31.52
C2 - 88953274 - $18.82
C3 - 88953347 - $6.56

These do not inlcude terminals, but you'll get everything else. I've yet to find a source for pins, but I'm 90% sure you can use your P10 pins in the P12 connectors. Eficonnection.com will sell you P10 pins and probably send you to a dealer for connectors.

Two of the above connectors can be found in pick-n-pulls from 2005+ cobalts/ions. I've personally confirmed that they fit the P12 PCM, but you'll have to do some re-pinning. Given gmpartsdirect.com's pricing, you're probably better of getting them new.

Awesome thanks. I will be checking that out and also if theres a vehicle being parted out

 

[AtlWrk]

Mouser.com and terminalsandconnectors.com have stock of C1 and C2

C1: 15452125 ($11.19 Mouser)
C2: 15452126 ($12.21 Mouser)
Terminals: 15359541 ('obsolete' but plenty of equivalents available on mouser)

Neither site seems to have C3 in stock but there may be an equivalent or sufficiently similar one available.

EDIT: The above part numbers are OEM part numbers. I'm not sure if they include the extra hardware (terminal locks, etc.) that the service parts do. I just ordered them and will know for sure in a few days.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Mouser.com and terminalsandconnectors.com have stock of C1 and C2

C1: 15452125 ($11.19 Mouser)
C2: 15452126 ($12.21 Mouser)
Terminals: 15359541 ('obsolete' but plenty of equivalents available on mouser)

Neither site seems to have C3 in stock but there may be an equivalent or sufficiently similar one available.

EDIT: The above part numbers are OEM part numbers. I'm not sure if they include the extra hardware (terminal locks, etc.) that the service parts do. I just ordered them and will know for sure in a few days.

great info. Thanks! Definitely shoot me a msg when yours come in please and I will order mine from there too if I have no luck finding a salvage.

 

[AtlWrk]

My order arrives tomorrow but I think what I ordered is just the connector itself. GMpartsdirect.com may be the way to go though if they include all the little extras and have C3. You can still order the terminals from mouser or elsewhere. I didn't need C3 so mouser's prices made more sense.

For the sake of completeness, here's the full list for OEM (still no source for oem C3):

C1
15452125 - connector (15452125-B in very low stock)
15357161 - secondary terminal lock
15357160 - wire dress cover

C2
15452126 - connector
15304720 - large terminal
15357143 - secondary terminal lock
15357144 - secondary terminal lock (large terminal)
15357142 - wire dress cover

C3
15437820 - connector (non-stocked)
15357161 - secondary terminal lock (same as C1)
15357160 - wire dress cover (same as C1)

Common parts:
15356825 - empty cavity plug (as/if required)
15356827 - terminals (small)

Good luck.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

My order arrives tomorrow but I think what I ordered is just the connector itself. GMpartsdirect.com may be the way to go though if they include all the little extras and have C3. You can still order the terminals from mouser or elsewhere. 15356827 - terminals (small) Good luck.

thanks for that list. that was helpful. I hope to hear from you once your order is in

 

[AtlWrk]

What I got was just the connector. No secondary locks or wire dresses. These will never leave my workbench so that's all I really needed. I was bending pins just having loose terminals on the PCM

It looks like a lot but all of those little extras are very inexpensive so don't let that turn you off.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Well I found a complete wiring harness for sale, but if it falls through i will go piece by piece for aure. Thank you again for the info! I cant wait to start this project

 

[Spalding1028]

Trying to stay on topic of the thread, but what will you be doing as far as spark plugs go when you turbocharge it?

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Trying to stay on topic of the thread, but what will you be doing as far as spark plugs go when you turbocharge it?

No worries. I already have upgraded them and new wiring

 

[Spalding1028]

upgraded? whose and what p/n did you use for them if you don't mind me asking. I've been doing some occasional snooping and have been trying to find a colder plug for our trucks with no luck.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

upgraded? whose and what p/n did you use for them if you don't mind me asking. I've been doing some occasional snooping and have been trying to find a colder plug for our trucks with no luck.

I dont mind at all. I got NGK plugs but then switched back to the AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs because the quality of bosch and ngk have gone downhill. 'a few of my friends had used ac delcos in their nitrous'd / boosted / or supercharged applications with no pre-detonation problems.

but really, since I have not installed the turbo yet, I personally cannot confirm that they are sufficient but I will once everything is done and installed in Feb.

 

[Spalding1028]

Well keep us updated on this. I work for Autolite (I've got a set of autolites in my tb right now and they work great) and if this actually goes somewhere and there's a demand, I'll speak with engineering about the possibility of making a colder plug for our trucks if one is needed (depending on how much boost, you might be able to get by with the standard heat range). i myself am interested (and depending on how hard it would be to get parts) I'd like to look into possibly doing something like this myself.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Neat! I will definitely keep posting updates. Yeah, if you havent seen the 4.2 i6 swap that limequat did to his supra check it out. (Im mobile right now at work so i cant post a url) but i will after work tonight.
I will be running 8psi of boost, new injectors, the p12 swap, intercooled, hks ssqv iii bov, all hooked up to my current custom exhaust..so yeah it will take a while to get all the parts together and I am waiting until after winter to install it being that my area gets over 100+ inches of snow in the winter haha. Very excited though

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Well I got my 06 Engine Harness in today with the pcm connectors and all !

View attachment 22095

NOW ANOTHER QUESTION...do I need to pin out the connectors OR can I splice the wires to my current 04 wiring? thanks!

 

[Spalding1028]

Well I got my 06 Engine Harness in today with the pcm connectors and all !

View attachment 8341

NOW ANOTHER QUESTION...do I need to pin out the connectors OR can I splice the wires to my current 04 wiring? thanks!

How much did that run you? I think i saw one on ebay for $100

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

How much did that run you? I think i saw one on ebay for $100

125 shipped! And with some extra wiring. I got it from a tow company/ junk yard in Ohio

 

[Turbodriven04]

Subscribed

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Well....today I got my 06 Trailblazer PCM Turbo tuned and ready to go back from Limequat and yesterday I got my HKS SSQV III Blow off valve (finally) in the mail from Japan. I have been looking for the 06 PCM pin outs and 04 Pin outs and have been matching up and labeling the 06 engine harness to fit on my 04 engine.
I almost want to have this done before winter instead of FEB, but money is holding me back. I did buy a Lincoln Electric MIG welder so I can do it all my self and save some $$$.

View attachment 22117

Still have yet to buy and or make:
- 2 Tial 35MM Wastegates
- Downpipe flanges/gasket
- Greddy Electronic Boost controller
- 60 LB ~800cc injectors
- T3/T60 Turbo
- Boost gauge
- MAF sensor
- Intercooler
- Intercooler Piping
- Oil Cooler
- Oil return/feed lines for the turbo
so....its still looking like spring time it will be getting installed and back on the road. just giving the update

 

[Turbodriven04]

What are you going to use as far as your fuel system, ie: boost a pump, FPR, in tank pump?

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

What are you going to use as far as your fuel system, ie: boost a pump, FPR, in tank pump?

Stock pump should support my fuel needs @ 8psi. If not, yes ill get a new in tank pump for sure

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

THE TURBO IS IN !
godspeed Gt45 cloned intake/exhaust housing (VERY STRONG) but internals are not, so I gutted internals/wheels
had Garrett GT45R internals (comp and turbine wheels) installed and the whole setup balanced

SPECS:
Intake: 4 inch
Outlet: 2.5 inch
Compressor trim: .70 ar
Compressor Wheel diameter: 66.71 /84.20
Turbine wheel diameter : 63.56 /73.60
Exhaust trim: 1.00 ar !
Turbine flange type: t4 flange
Downpipe flange type: 3.25" v band flange
oil cooled only*
Horsepower rating: 400-600hp+
Capable of 38 PSI I will only run about 7 psi / 8psi max to play it safe.

View attachment 22648
View attachment 22649

View attachment 22650

up next is relocating the battery to where the back seats used to be, then the washer fluid reservoir needs relocated somewhere...

 

[infamouz]

Badass project, goodluck with it. Hope it turns out good.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Badass project, goodluck with it. Hope it turns out good.

Thanks me too! Itll take time but its worth it

 

[Turbodriven04]

Can't wait to see that thing bolted and puttin down some numbers. What are you using for a manifold?

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Can't wait to see that thing bolted and puttin down some numbers. What are you using for a manifold?

thanks me either! I am going to keep stock manifold on and just bolt a 180 degree piece of pipe (like a header) back up into the exhaust. I will use a 2.5in exhaust to T4 turbo adapter plate and weld mounting/support brackets for both the piping and the turbo. I couldnt see dropping $800+ on a new custom manifold especially with how much of a b!tch the stock ones are to get off without snapping bolts.

I turbod two other cars (both of my friends 300zx's) with these method and it worked quite well with NO leakage. I am just about done pinning out the PCM and after my normal repairs and inspection are done oct1 I will be buying the injectors/inj harness and MAF system I need so I can actually swap to the tuned pcm before Nov. and have less to do in the spring

At least I am having a blast learning a ton of information about our vehicles and how they are wired and how they work. haha its crazy :wootwoot:

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Well I have been getting parts in every week and working out issues I am coming up with.

NEW since last time.

View attachment 25387
View attachment 25390

- CNC custom machined 3" pipe to T4 turbo flange adapter
- 4" cone air filter
- 2006 TB MAF sensor + brand new 4" Aluminium MAF housing
- New pcm tune by Limequat (on the p12 06TB pcm waiting to go in in the spring) for my new MAF sensor in 4" housing to read up to 12psi of boost
- 1/0 gauge USA MADE welding wire for Battery location (10' power 2' ground)
- Misc battery terminals and lug connectors
- Oil feed for the turbo + restrictor to limit the oil flow going into the turbo to avoid blowing the seals
- 2.5" welded flange (welded to a piece of 2.5 aluminium piping) for my HKS SSQV III blow off valve

PROBLEM (solved)
Ran into a MAJOR issue with the oil return line for the turbo ALMOST called off the build.
traditionally a gravity fed return line from the turbo carries oil to the oil pan (tapped and drilled and welded) or to the block. I looked up how to remove our 4.2 oil pan and the first picture I saw was the frame and engine on the ground an the truck body in the air. My heart sank. but luckily I talked to Lingenfelter and some guys at LS1 tech and they told me about scavenge oil pumps that can pump return the oil up hill to the oil cap. So that is what I will have to do because I AM NOT removing the engine or entire body just to drill out the oil pan.
SO now that the issue is resolved I am feeling much better and things are moving forward and have acquired all the parts I needed to relocate the battery to the inside (in a box). Just need to save up for injectors, 2 38mm Tial wastegates, all the piping, the intercooler, the scavenge pump, and a few other random parts and pieces and then I just wait til spring.

 

[Spalding1028]

You're going to make a kit, correct?

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

I would love to write down everything for anyone who is crazy enough and has enough patience to do this haha.

most of this is just custom fabrication I wish they made anything like a kit for these.

I had NO idea when I started how involved this would become. its worth it for me but I think I caught myself wishing I would have just bought an SS but I always wanted a turbo since i used to have a 300zxtt.

 

[Turbodriven04]

With the return line issue, couldn't you have piped into the dipstick tube somehow? I haven't really looked at it lately but that was the first hole in the block I was thinking of. There is also a tool we used to rethread the ford 4.6 and 5.4 spark plug holes that pulled the shavings out with the tool as it worked. Can't remember the name right off hand, but something like that might work for you on tapping the pan.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

With the return line issue, couldn't you have piped into the dipstick tube somehow? I haven't really looked at it lately but that was the first hole in the block I was thinking of. There is also a tool we used to rethread the ford 4.6 and 5.4 spark plug holes that pulled the shavings out with the tool as it worked. Can't remember the name right off hand, but something like that might work for you on tapping the pan.

thanks for the dipstick idea. I will look into that one! as for the pan, I would rather use a pump than rely on gravity drain. but thanks for the other idea. How do you think I could secure the return line on the dipstick under pressure without leaking?

 

[Sparky]

Cut a hole/weld a nipple on it/clamp return oil feed hose to it?

Only issue I really see is that dipstick tube isn't very big, and the dipstick itself is going to be taking up space in the tube.