07 Silverado lifter or spark knock

Mooseman

Moderator
Definitely better than MOTS (more of the same) manifolds and at a lower cost. Definitely need to use OEM gaskets as those included are prone to leaking.

As far as short vs long tubes, that depends on what you're going for. Shorties are better for work and tow trucks with lower end grunt whereas the long tubes are for higher RPM power. A dyno tune either way would take full advantage of them, especially the long tubes which would affect the AF ratio greatly.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
MRRSM, you had a great point about eliminating the rust, and the stainless steel shorties look great! Ok wanted to make sure about the fit, is there anything else I need to double check on before I order?
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Mooseman,

The silverado is my work truck, use it back a forth everyday to the hospital powerhouse! I do a little towing nothing big just a 10’ trailer and 17’ fishing boat so I wanted to follow up about using the direct fit shorties MRRSM posted, they are pretty sharp!!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
And the shorties would be a direct swap. I'd be going to those.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Yes… Here are "An Even Dozen Things" for EVERYONE to Consider when performing this Task:

(1) ALL Exhaust Manifold and Headers Installation require PLANNING THINGS OUT… FIRST. Observe and unfasten EVERYTHING THAT STANDS IN THE WAY of getting the Old Exhaust Manifolds OUT and the New Headers IN ...without Beating the Living Hell Out Of The New Stainless Steel Tubes!!!.

(2) DO NOT WASTE TIME WORRYING ABOUT SNAPPING OFF ANY OF THE THREE COLLECTOR PIPE FASTENERS (Xs 2 Sides). You will essentially wind up removing Two Useless, Heavy Cast Iron Boat Anchors when you're done… so Don’t Angst over breaking them ALL off if needs be with a Sturdy Impact Gun. You want to get them out with the least amount of effort possible and THAT is all that matters.

(3) Follow the Written Installation Guide Lines to Install EVERYTHING LOOSELY FIRST and then Gradually Tighten down ALL of the Fasteners on BOTH Banks...Just a Little at a Time. KEEP YOUR GASKETS ALIGNED AND DO NOT DAMAGE THEM DURING THE INSTALLATION!

(4) While this Shorty Header R&R takes place on a “Roomy” 5.3L LS Header R&R inside of a Silverado, for anyone doing this on a Trailblazer of Envoy and you will NOT have as much room to work in within the Engine Compartment being much tighter spaces. Nevertheless, the Methods and Techniques THIS VOP (Video Original Poster) uses are worth watching:

Part I:

Removing the OEM Exhaust Manifold using Techniques to Avoid Breaking Off any Remaining Fasteners:



Part II:

How to Install the New Stainless Steel Headers Stressing the Need to Pre-Fit them FIRST before the actual installation to ensure that No Additional Flange Drill Outs are Necessary:



(5) Unlike the R&R of the Collector Flange Three Fasteners...you WILL need to be VERY Careful NOT to get anxious and rush through the removal of the Exhaust Manifold Fasteners. GO SLOWLY AND TAKE YOUR TIME. Avoid Breaking Off the remaining existing Hardware. The Less of a Mess you make when taking them out… the quicker you will be able to finish.

(6) When the Installation is finished...WIPE AND SPRAY DOWN ALL SHINY HEADER SURFACES WHILE THEY ARE STONE COLD TO REMOVE OILS, FINGERPRINTS, ADHESIVES, LABELS OR RESIDUAL CLEAR AND SOLID TAPE...or else their Images will get PERMANENTLY BURNED INTO THE HEADER PIPES!!!

(7) NEVER SPRAY BRAKE-KLEEN OR ANY SOLVENT ONTO ANY HOT ENGINE INCANDESCENT SURFACES OR EXPOSE THAT STUFF TO AN OPEN TORCH OR FLAME…. EVER. Burning These Solvents will instantly create clouds of Phosgene Gas. One Whiff of that awful stuff will be enough to KILL YOU!!! Do NOT Start the Engine until ALL of the Solvent has Evaporated.


(8) Once EVERYTHING is carefully installed and cleaned up… Start the Engine and allow it to Idle for only around 10 Minutes. Then Shut it Down and allow the Headers to Cool Down. When the Engine is Stone Cold… Go around and re-tighten all of the Fasteners on the Engine Head up to 15 Foot Pounds...AND NO MORE. Then Start the Engine and allow it to Idle again for another 15 Minutes. Listen for Leaks, Pops or Weird Noises and Repeat these same Procedures until things Quiet Down.

(9) NEVER TIGHTEN OR LOOSEN ANY FASTENERS (ESPECIALLY SPARK-PLUGS) EITHER ON THE ENGINE BLOCK OR ON THE ENGINE HEADS IF THE ENGINE IS HOT.

(10) Use Your Head…. Safety First. Using Common Sense and Caution should lead you to Never be HASTY or Thoughtless. Do NOT Start this Project if you are either Tired or Fatigued. This Work is Physically Demanding and trying to RUSH anything along will only Guarantee that you will make mistakes and SNAP OFF NEW FASTENERS .

(11) The Engine will SMOKE a bit after the Header Installation. Only Run the Engine Out of Doors and NEVER in a Closed Up Garage or in any Confined Area. Take care to re-install EVERYTHING you had to previously remove... and ALWAYS Use the Factory Torque Specs at ALL TIMES.

(12) After the Headers have been firmly Fastened and Heat Cycled, revisit Both sides of the "Y" Pipe Collectors and make sure that their Fasteners are Still Tight. Avoid Over-Tightening Them. Since they are No Longer Using Studs... you might need to use a Box End Wrench and a Ratchet & Socket Combo on their Upper and Lower portions to ensure they are all tight and resistant to Exhaust Leaks.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for ALL your excellent and I mean excellent work and advice! Shorties are ordered, going to take a few days to get here but that’s fine.
It’s gives me plenty of time to break things down and not get in a hurry! That seems to be the key factor!
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I forgot to make mention of My Absolute FAVORITE Video on "How to Remove Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts on the LS Engines..." just in case you find some that are Broken Off and difficult to remove:


One last word or two....After some Header Installations...Vehicle Owners might detect a sort of "Tinkling or Ringing Noise" that was NOT present when the Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds were installed. THIS sound is Perfectly NORMAL... it is caused by the presence of the Thinner Stainless Steel Header Pipe Material that will be transmitting the sounds of the Valves and Exhaust Stream vibrating the Tubes at lower RPM like "Brass Bells".

That noise was ALWAYS present before the R&R... it was simply noise that was being Absorbed and Quieted down by the Thicker Cast Iron Manifold Material. This sound will also be more pronounced if a Radical, High Lift Cam has been installed due to the accentuated syncopation (Lope) caused by having a Low LSA Valve Overlap of the Intake and Exhaust events coming within moments of each other at Lower RPM. This phenomena does NOT indicate anything is either wrong or loose with the Valve Train.
 
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MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Merry Christmas, Brother... :>)

Take a Few Minutes to go over all of the Welds and Flanges and Tap the Thick Flanges with a Plastic or Dead Blow Hammer and then... SHAKE THE HELL OUT OF THE HEADER PIPES... You will NOT be surprised to find that there may be some Machining Dross, Metal Flakes, and S/S Corkscrews with some occasional TIG Welding Wire segments Falling Out. Avoid Striking The Tubes!!!

Those are the things you want to pick up and toss in the trash BEFORE YOU STEP on them with Bare Feet... and prevent from entering and damaging the Catalytic Converter Ceramic - Rare Earth Metal Honeycombs over time... BEFORE you Bolt them Both up against the Engine Heads.
 
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Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
One last word or two....After some Header Installations...Vehicle Owners might detect a sort of "Tinkling or Ringing Noise" that was NOT present when the Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds were installed. THIS sound is Perfectly NORMAL... it is caused by the presence of the Thinner Stainless Steel Header Pipe Material that will be transmitting the sounds of the Valves and Exhaust Stream vibrating the Tubes at lower RPM like "Brass Bells".
Thanks for this info. If I ever wind up getting headers for the Sierra, I'll wrap them (or have them ceramic coated) to try and mask that sound, as I don't think I'd like hearing it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Thanks for this info. If I ever wind up getting headers for the Sierra, I'll wrap them (or have them ceramic coated) to try and mask that sound, as I don't think I'd like hearing it.
Do not wrap headers. This has been known to make them fail prematurely. Ceramic coating is much better although it probably won't make much of a difference for that noise but would help in controlling underhood temps. I have long tube headers on the 6.0L Caprice and the noise is barely noticeable. On shorties, it'll probably be even less. If it's still a concern, I'd use a blanket type covering instead of wrapping individual tubes.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Well tomorrow will tell, I’ll double check to make sure there are no surprise goodies inside the pipes! However the welding was top notch!
 

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