07 Silverado lifter or spark knock

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, can I hit you guys with another question....do I have to have a C or can it be a V etc. or is there a table that I can reference too.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
OP
ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hello guys!
I just wanted to say Happy New Year and Thank you for all the help this year! Mooseman,MRRSM,Reprise,tollkeeper wanted to let you know I haven’t turned any wrenches on the 4.8 yet as Hospital duty had/has me slammed. Rest assured that when I get started again I’ll be reporting in! Owe you guys special thanks for all you’ve helped me with! Take care more to come!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Thanks for all you do and stay safe brother!
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone
I have an update!!! Found a motor and it’s on the way! 93,000 miles!
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
So did you get a 4.8 or go with something bigger?
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Mooseman,

Sorry for the delay, stuck with the 4.8 Vin C. I saw the Ebay listing with the 93,000 miles and runs great and free shipping and decided I’d give it a shot. Still cost me though $1375 but that not bad according to the prices I’ve seen.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
GMorning everyone,
Wanted to pickup some parts or get them ordered today, but needed some advice on a couple things can you guys help me out? On the yard motor I wanted to follow thru with some of the things MRRSM recommended.
1) Rear seal, but do I really need the alignment tool? Also should I get the new plate with bolts and gasket or just a seal kit?
2) Transmission front seal, no problem it’s cut and dry.
3) Pickup tube o-ring, that’s calls for several things to be disassembled but it’s not a problem, however 93,000 miles is it necessary. Just curious what you guys would do.
4) New Valve cover gaskets, should I pull the covers to inspect/clean?
5) I figure new water pump
Any advise highly appreciated!
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Motor came in yesterday at quitting time.
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hello Everyone,

Update: finally able to start on the swap. It’s back to the regular job tomorrow but Sunday I hope to pull the motor.
 

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gmcman

Well-Known Member
Rear seal, but do I really need the alignment tool? Also should I get the new plate with bolts and gasket or just a seal kit?

Yes, and likely yes.


The seal is in the rear cover. The tool is to center the cover to the crank. You don't want to do this again after the trans is bolted back up.

As far as the bolts, not sure but any replaceable gasket I would change.

I would also change any lines you could with the engine removed, like the power steering and maybe the brake lines.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Thanks gmcman, got the rear seal kit today but looks like I’ll have to look on the web for the alignment tool. Also picked up a new front seal for the trans. Appreciate the advice!
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone
Quick update the 4.8 is out now! Sure would like to break things down to find out what happened but for now I’ll continue with the swap. Here’s a few pics.
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
So I bought a Sac city Align-it tool for the rear seal install to make sure it’s centered on the crankshaft. The seal kit I got from the parts house is a Dorman kit and after looking around on the web I noticed Dorman has their own alignment tool #635-000 so I’m wondering now if I ought to get their tool. Any advice guys?
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

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Mooseman/MRRSM

Please help guys If you can, I changed the front seal in the transmission and measured the distance from the torque converter to the edge of the bell housing before I took the converter out (1”). I replaced the seal and installed the converter with spin CW and CCW until it seated. I rechecked my measurements and I had the 1” again so I felt like it was back in as before.
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Then I started reading about it! Ugh! When you install the torque converter and these 3 clunks your suppose to hear and feel....and measurements from 1” to 1-1/4 so now I’m second guessing myself😬 can you guys give me some solid advise. Before I took off to work I spent a few minutes and spun and pushed a little just to make sure the converter was as far as it work go. Am I good with the 1”?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
If you don't have the converter in properly, you can destroy the pump in the tranny. I saw the measurement thing on YT today but it was for a 6L80E however they also mentioned 1". The important thing is when you mate the tranny to the engine slowly, there should be a little movement from the TC back and forth to the flexplate, like 1/8-1/4". If the TC is tight against the flexplate, back off the bellhousing bolts and spin and push the TC.

I think you're fine. Sometimes you might have one or two things aligned when you first put it on the shaft so you might not get the three clunks.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Thanks Mooseman! I will take my time and slowly mate the block and Tranny together making sure I’m not jamming anything. I also watched a couple YouTube’s where 1” was mentioned also not being able to slide your fingers behind the TC too.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
You s/b good with your converter; Moose described exactly how it should look / feel, when you go to join it to the flexplate.

It's probably a good idea to use new bolts to join them together, and not reuse the old ones. If you removed the flexplate from the crank, you *must* use new bolts there. Obviously, you're interested in and taking care to do the job right, so figured I'd mention the bolts.
Good move on your part to measure the distance between converter <> front lip of the bellhousing, before removing it. A lot of people wouldn't have thought to do that.

You mentioned the oil pump seal - yes, I'd replace it, since you're there, as it's cheap insurance. Fel-pro's is well-regarded, as is Melling's (the fel-pro is easier to find at retail.)

If your new engine has more than 80-90K on it, give thought to a pump replacement (although you'll have to pull the balancer, so if that's a concern, you can leave it in place, and just remove the pickup tube to get to the seal.) Do your homework on the proper seal (type and color; GM made revisions!) and when you join the tube back to the pump, you should feel a pretty snug connection between the two. Otherwise, you'll have no oil pressure at startup.

The nuts that hold the pickup tube to the engine are OK to reuse (they're not stressed, or fastening the end caps to the crank). Their light torque spec is indicative of that. While you don't have to remove the windage tray behind it, if you do, you'll get to see the crank & rods in all their glory, if that sort of thing interests you. You can also (mostly) see the condition of the cylinder bores; if they're in good shape, you'll likely see the crosshatch hone marks on the bores - if so, that's a good indication the piston rings are still in good shape; good to know.
If you turn the crank to move the pistons, take out the spark plugs first! Also remember that the crank *always* turns clockwise, as you face the front of the engine & turn it. It can move CCW, but you shouldn't do that.

If you do remove the oil pan, it would be best to join the trans / engine back together beforehand, and reattach the bellhousing cover, before removing the oil pan. The alignment on those matter, as they are both stressed members of the engine, believe it or not.
Finally, remember that the two longer thinner M6 bolts at the back of the pan do NOT get the same torque as the others. If you forget, you'll snap them off. So don't forget... LOL

OK... that's enough for now. Plus, my thumbs are tired. 😫
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Reprise I would have blew it!!!!! I had no idea that the flex plate bolts had to be new! I’ve been using the Chilton manual and following it pretty closely. I will also use new TC bolts too. Medium loctite on F Plate and TC bolts right. Yes the oil pump pickup o-ring, brittle breaks no oil pressure Ugh!!! 93k on the motor. Sounds like it’s highly recommended!!! Ok after work tonight it’s the rear main oil seal replacement I have the Dorman plate with seal installed and 2 alignment tools! The Dorman guide tool 635-000
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
And the Sac City Alignment tool, I’m tossed on that too! The Dorman tool is like a guide more than a alignment, the Sac City I would have to remove the seal from the new plate and insert the tool in the plate to get the proper alignment than torque the bolts and re-install the seal with the same tool. Sure could use some tips regarding this!
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys I had to shift gears a little to coloring Easter eggs with the grandkids!!! Heck it’s High Tech now!!! Put your egg in a machine that spins it and color away!!! Tomorrow it’s the ole fashion way!

Happy Easter everyone!
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Hey Everyone
Made a stop at the parts house on the way home from work and picked up a Fel-Pro rear main seal gasket set (no plate). I already had the Dorman complete kit with seal installed in the plate but I’m tossed about using it. Read several places on the web that gave Fel-Pro great recommendations so I decided to pick it up. With that set I can use the cleaned up old cover and the Align-it tool and re-install correctly.
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Not that I know of. Pretty much all high torque bolts are TTY.
 
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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
Got the motor in over the weekend still lack the converter bolts, intake and few other things.
 

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ggmurray

ggmurray

Well-Known Member
The original is on the stand. When I get the other up and running we will tear down the original and find out exactly what happened! I’m ready for some answers!
 

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