What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

Zaab said:
Ughh, tried to replace front low control arms for cluncking noise when go over pothole, nope, the front control armmbolt, which is 21mm, fused solid into the frame. Even a 1150 ft lbs impact wrench cant remove it. Too bad!

But otherwise, changed transfer case fluid and front diff oil. Now no clanky sound when giving heavy throttle at stop light.
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I found despite having a heavy duty impact, its not always enough to break stubborn bolts free. I started using CRC Knock'er Loose (sprayed everything a week ahead of time), and again while using a MAP torch and it made the job easy....aside from my least favorite part of removing/installing the struts.
 
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I can't see why not. Is yours smelly?

BTW, GMT360 didn't come stock with a cabin filter.
 
I just happened to see the video on YouTube and thought it was an interesting product. I did end up cutting and adding the cabin air filters to my 2005. I just taped it up as I did not cut the door outline so well. AC does have a slight odor at times.
 
Was thinking of trying to repair the door card with some glue again. What products have others used for this fix?
 

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Had a little misadventure last night. While on the way to meet up with some friends for dinner, and then go to Howl-O-Scream, I noticed the truck feeling a little off at times. After making a turn and getting on the gas, I thought "It almost feels like a miss..." (CEL comes on, and starts blinking at me) :lipsrsealed: :hissyfit:

No time to do anything about it, so I just light footed it to my destination, then to the theme park afterwards, and back home. Checked Torque to confirm, and cylinder 2 was the culprit.

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I usually keep a spare coil pack, but hadn't replaced the one I had swapped out a couple years ago.
:duh: So off to the store first thing this morning. Hadn't realized how expensive these things had gotten, I was tempted to get the 6 pack, but the budget won't allow for that, especially after replacing the tires unexpectedly.

Swapped in the new coil right there in the parking lot, and now she's running nice and smooth again.

krunal88 said:
Was thinking of trying to repair the door card with some glue again. What products have others used for this fix?
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One of mine is like this too, I'll be interested to know if whatever you decide to go with, works well.
 
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I flushed the brake fluid in the TB. It was green and tester showed it had high moisture content. I used a 12V oil suction pump and it worked great. No pedal pumping. And with the wheels off, took a look at the brakes and other stuff. All looked good.

Then replaced the coolant in the Caprice. AFAIK, it was original from 2011 so yeah, it needed it even though it looked mint. The Caprice has a radiator drain plug that is easily accessible from under through an existing hole in the lower plastics. I didn't drain the block itself but I recovered about 8 litres of coolant just from the radiator drain. I used a vacuum refilling system I got from Amazon and I don't know how I ever did this before without it. Uses compressor air to create a vacuum in the empty system down to about 25hg, close the vacuum valve and then open the valve to the container of new coolant and it just sucks it in. No burping, just a little topping up the radiator after. I used a suction gun to get the coolant out of the overflow tank since it's buried down in the fender. Idled up to temp and took it for a ride, temps were perfect.

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Nothing much for the old girl. I ordered some ball joints for it from Rockauto. Going to try the Delphi ones, which look to be Turkish made Deeza's. Perhaps better than the commie Chinese stuff? We shall see..... when I do those, she will get the fall maintenance as well. Grease all the points, rotate the tires and adjust the parking brake shoes.

It is currently at 11,000km on the oil so that will wait. I am likely going to drive it more this winter and park the beater Sunfire.
 
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Catch up post...

So I bought an oil extractor for transmission fluid drain and refill. Pan drop is just too much hassle and risk my fragile exhaust. The oil extractor works great but can only get 3qts a time instead of 6 qts. but it is indeed much easier and way less messy.
 
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Did an oil change... I think my LH6 is not doing so well.
Good news is had an oil change as rinse cycle after driving some miles and oil is more promising, no shining film and much less practicals. I hope it is an one time event or Valvoline R&P dislodged a large chunk of wear materials produced under previous owner. Now running 10w40 and plan to do another oil change at 100-150mi marks to confirm no more extensive wearing.

Meanwhile, getting quote from rebuild shop.
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I sure hope you don't find any more forbidden glitter
:frown:
 
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Started the TrailBlazer and let it warm up a while. Hasn't been started in quite some time, maybe months.

Discovered I have a poor connection at the engine coolant temperature sensor. This is what a bad connection there looks like when graphed in Car Scanner. It settled out when I manipulated the harness connector.

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Did oil changes on both. Put a Wix filter and ACDelco 0W20 in the Sierra for the winter and a Fram Ultra Synth filter with Kirkland 5W30 for the TB. Was cold though. 0c and a breeze going on so I got chilled. Now I don't have to worry about it for the winter.
 
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Made some progress on the Trailblazer today. Greased up the end links, u joints and tie rod ends.

The driver side e brake shoes took a large amount of adjustment and look to hold well now. The passenger side adjuster was seized but gained movement easy enough. There was a pile of brake dust in there so it appeared it somehow tightened up, perhaps the cable lever was partially stuck. It now works better but not perfect. Ill work the brake a bunch and recheck that side later.

Tightened up the transmission pan bolts. I had noticed there was some ATF sweating out and had not touched those bolts since I did that fluid exchange and pan drop in 2014.

Now, the big project of ball joints. There was some play but actually nothing crazy. Just did the passenger side tonight. Other than using an assortment of cups, a small and large press and a few sockets, it went ok. The lower one seemed stuck, hitting the metal around it on the a arm seemed futile. I gave the press a good smack and it gave out like my back when the weather changes. Nothing to report on install.

What went wrong? typical things for old Brian.... the one castor on my little wheelie mechanic chair gave out. Fine, I'll sit on the ground. Then my garbage 4 in 1 snap ring pliers proved totally useless on installing the snap rings. I will pick up a decent set tomorrow and button up that side up.
 
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Finished the ball joints today, which was rhe driver side. Both had play with the upper being beyond toast. Its grease was like plasticine and plenty of slop. The top came out with minimal pressure and a few taps of the hammer. The lower... was... well.... I bent the cup as those two little tabs were not enough to distribute the force. I got no movement with the press.

I resorted to the old hammer and marginally limp wrists. I supported the control arm and used an old impact socket on top. I used some heat and it eventually broke free. Installing the new joint was easy. I froze the ball joint and as I installed it, smacked the control arm. It went in quite well. While not a complex job, one has to have some tools and be resourceful.
 

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BrianF said:
Finished the ball joints today, which was rhe driver side. Both had play with the upper being beyond toast. Its grease was like plasticine and plenty of slop. The top came out with minimal pressure and a few taps of the hammer. The lower... was... well.... I bent the cup as those two little tabs were not enough to distribute the force. I got no movement with the press.

I resorted to the old hammer and marginally limp wrists. I supported the control arm and used an old impact socket on top. I used some heat and it eventually broke free. Installing the new joint was easy. I froze the ball joint and as I installed it, smacked the control arm. It went in quite well. While not a complex job, one has to have some tools and be resourceful.
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For the lower one, do you have to remove the brake to get enough space for ball joint and press?
 
Rust proof. This is WIP!
Spray under the truck is harder than I think! Can hardly control the spray can. Lot's of run down and far from ideal. But it's better than not doing it and now is protected. I use rust oleum rust reformer + rust oleum stop rust paint. I also ordered two internal chassis spray from Eastwood. They are expensive! Hope after I treated frame inside out, I can buy my 9-7x a few extra years of life...
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@Zaab I removed the brake, in fact, I had the whole knuckle removed. Gives the best access and its pretty much removed anyway.

The passenger side i went as far as removing the wheel bearing. The driver side I left it on but had the caliper and rotor off. I found it easier to remove the ABS sensor from the bearing to free the thing.
 
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BrianF said:
@Zaab I removed the brake, in fact, I had the whole knuckle removed. Gives the best access and its pretty much removed anyway.

The passenger side i went as far as removing the wheel bearing. The driver side I left it on but had the caliper and rotor off. I found it easier to remove the ABS sensor from the bearing to free the thing.
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Ahhhh I wish I knew it earlier. When I first got the car I need new brakes all around. Then two months ago, my wheel bears are shot so I replaced them. Should carry on and replace both lower ball joints at that time. Now I have to disassemble everything again for ball joint replacement.
 
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