SOLVED! Trailblazer not starting please help

[TJBaker57]

if I do try to jump start the starter like the video says and nothing happens is there any chance that it could be the security system locking the car down or no?

Short answer...NO.

The security can stop the engine from actually starting up by disabling the fuel supply. But if you connect the jumper wire as the video directs, with 12 volts at the relay as he demonstrates with the test light, the starter will crank the engine. If it doesn't crank the engine then either there is a bad connection, the starter is bad, or the battery is too weak to crank the engine.

 

[MBS1994]

Different folk have different ideas of what "crank" means. (I can be an old crank but that is another story) Among mechanics "cranking" means the starter is spinning the motor. "Tries to crank" to me means the starter engages and attempts to spin the engine but maybe the battery has not the power to get it really turning. Is this what you mean here?



I do not understand the "now when it's locked" part. What is locked?


When you say "has gas" do you mean has gas in the tank, or do you mean you can hear the fuel pump running?



These warnings will not affect the starting in any way

I did the wires down into the starter relay and it tried to start just like in the video you shared but still can't get it to do anything with just trying to start it as normal. No fuel pump sound just thinking how it's all fuel, air, and spark so start so just pointing out there is gas in the tank but no I do not hear the starter. What about the warning about the coolant/oil being low?

 

[MBS1994]

Short answer...NO.

The security can stop the engine from actually starting up by disabling the fuel supply. But if you connect the jumper wire as the video directs, with 12 volts at the relay as he demonstrates with the test light, the starter will crank the engine. If it doesn't crank the engine then either there is a bad connection, the starter is bad, or the battery is too weak to crank the engine.

It tries to start by doing the jumper wire but that's the only time

 

[MBS1994]

It tries to start by doing the jumper wire but that's the only time

Oh and TJ so what I meant by when its locked is key out and using the fob to lock the car it stays on the dash. When I try to start it with my key the lock isn't on the dash

 

[TJBaker57]

tries to start by doing the jumper wire but that's the only time

OK. This helps a lot. It cranks with the jumper so that tells you the starter is OK.

Earlier you said the starter relay in the fusebox clicked when you turned the key to start? Is this happening now??

 

[TJBaker57]

using the fob to lock the car it stays on the dash

I think I maybe figured out what you mean!! Are you talking about the instrument panel symbol that looks like a padlock?? Not talking about an actual lock?

 

[MBS1994]

OK. This helps a lot. It cranks with the jumper so that tells you the starter is OK.

Earlier you said the starter relay in the fusebox clicked when you turned the key to start? Is this happening now??

I'm not sure, I didn't have a helper last night but I can have my wife go with me up there and work the key while I listen.

 

[MBS1994]

I think I maybe figured out what you mean!! Are you talking about the instrument panel symbol that looks like a padlock?? Not talking about an actual lock?

Yes. Sorry between all the work at the job and working on two cars I've been out of it.

 

[TJBaker57]

work the key while I listen.

In addition to listening, remove the cover and put a finger on the starter relay to be certain that is the one you hear. You should feel it click.

Edit: and if the relay clicks when you turn the key tonstart but the starter doesn't crank then we need to look at the relay socket in the fusebox. Because if it cranks with a jumper wire but with the key it only clicks it is likely the relay socket has been buggered up by some previous owner sticking things down in the socket holes to test them. This is exactly what my TrailBlazer was lime when I bought it. Sticking a jumper wire down might make a connection that the relay is not making when it is set in there

 

[MBS1994]

In addition to listening, remove the cover and put a finger on the starter relay to be certain that is the one you hear. You should feel it click.

If it does click and I can feel it what's my next best step?

 

[MBS1994]

No ground request on starter relay. Tried looking through the diagrams but not sure which one I need to look at since there is 177 and listed as a Buick Rainier so not sure if vin coding is the same

 

[MBS1994]

Click under fuse box comes and goes. Can't feel it on the relay when it does click

 

[MBS1994]

My EAP relay is the click #49

 

[budwich]

with your key just turn to ON (not trying to start) and left in that position ("for ever'... ie. for a bit), what lights are on your dash (post a picture may help).

 

[TJBaker57]

No click from starter relay brings back possibilities of bad ignition switch, security, crank fuse and park Neutral switch

 

[TJBaker57]

My EAP relay is the click #49

The EAP relay should click when the key is turned to ON and it should stay "clicked" when key is turned to START This relay stops you from adjusting your Electronic Adjustable Pedals when the key is on and the transmission is not in park or Neutral.

 

[MBS1994]

with your key just turn to ON (not trying to start) and left in that position ("for ever'... ie. for a bit), what lights are on your dash (post a picture may help).

I got called in for my job so I will once I get done with all this

 

[MBS1994]

No click from starter relay brings back possibilities of bad ignition switch, security, crank fuse and park Neutral switch

Can I go through and test all those with my test light? Not the ecu but everything else? Oh since the starter and crank relays are the same can I just swap them around and see if that does anything

 

[MBS1994]

What about no ground on the starter relay socket?

 

[TJBaker57]

starter and crank relays are the same can I just swap them around

There is no "crank relay". There is a crank FUSE. #17. The test light should light up when connected to the top of this fuse only when the key is to turned to START. (#17, hook the test light clip to ground and use the probe on the top of the fuse where the metal shows in 2 places)

If the crank relay does not get 12 volts when the key is in START, look to the ignition switch for trouble

 

[TJBaker57]

What about no ground on the starter relay socket?

The ground is supplied by the PCM when it decides everything is OK to start up. That is how the PCM controls things, power is run to one side of the component (relay or whatever) and the PCM supplies the ground as needed.

 

[Gmcdude]

I had the exact same problem last year on my GMC Envoy. I replaced both the ignition switch and the starter. I was careful to put the new ignition switch in the same position as the old one and still nothing. I ended up having it towed to a shop and they told me the ignition switch was installed incorrectly. It has been working well since they fixed it.

 

[TJBaker57]

I am wondering if @Kelly@PCMofNC can enlighten us in regard to what was altered in your PCM regarding VATS etc. Such as does the PCM now still need an OK from the BCM before starting and so on. Anything that might make troubleshooting this no crank issue easier, so we don't chase things that are no longer there.

 

[Mooseman]

If it's anything like my tune, with VATS disabled, the security light constantly flashes but it still starts and runs.

 

[MBS1994]

I just got to my car. I'm testing the switch now and the yellow loses power when it gets turned to crank

 

[MBS1994]

Messed with the switch now brown and the darker yellow on the switch only have power at crank and the rest are always hot crank or on

 

[Mooseman]

It should be 12v+ at crank and nothing any other time. What's the red wire showing? It should be 12v+ all the time (BAT). Did you check the 40A IGN A fuse? Not sure if it was already posted but here's the schematic.

 

[TJBaker57]

I just got to my car. I'm testing the switch now and the yellow loses power when it gets turned to crank

Sounds like a bad switch or something about the switch install went south. I cannot say I know anything about the switch other than I have a new one in my glovebox just in case

 

[MBS1994]

First is and second is

 

[TJBaker57]

This screenshot shows all of the ignition switch wires. It can be seen in this image which wires should be hot at varying positions of the switch.

White, Orange, Brown and Pink should be hot in RUN.

White, Yellow, and Pink should be hot in START.

 

[MBS1994]

It should be 12v+ at crank and nothing any other time. What's the red wire showing? It should be 12v+ all the time (BAT). Did you check the 40A IGN A fuse? Not sure if it was already posted but here's the schematic.

Thank you very much. Which should he at 12v at all times? I only have a test light but red was lighting up when I was there. Yes the ign a is good I swapped it with my functioning blower fuse and it was fine. Should I start at the ignition and go from there? I keep assuming to start at the starter relay based off watching the test video on it and that's what he did

 

[MBS1994]

This screenshot shows all of the ignition switch wires. It can be seen in this image which wires should be hot at varying positions of the switch.

White, Orange, Brown and Pink should be hot in RUN.

White, Yellow, and Pink should be hot in START.




View attachment 91322

Thank you. I will check that again soon. My phone died shortly after getting there

 

[MBS1994]

Brown is not hot in start

 

[TJBaker57]

Brown is not hot in start

This is correct

Also Orange should not be hot in START

 

[MBS1994]

This is correct

Also Orange should not be hot in START

Checked again. All wires are reading right on the ignition switch and I kept adjusting tooth by tooth but that didn't do anything either. Attached is my dash but add in the security lock after it sits in run for a good while

 

[budwich]

Checked again. All wires are reading right on the ignition switch and I kept adjusting tooth by tooth but that didn't do anything either. Attached is my dash but add in the security lock after it sits in run for a good while

confirm that this is a picture of the dash with the key in ON only. IF so, your problem is that the PCM is not happy as there should be a check engine light on when your key is in "ON" and the engine not running. You need to ensure that the proper voltages are appearing as per the posted diagrams... both at the ignition switch and at the PCM.

The first post of this thread doesn't give one a warm feeling about the ignition (install or otherwise) as turning the ignition switch without a key is not likely to produce a good result at any time. :-(

 

[TJBaker57]

After the ignition switch the yellow wire leads back to fuse #17 in the underhood fuseblock. You need to see 12 volts on both sides of that fuse when the key is turned to START. Should have no power there in RUN, only power when in START. Leave the fuse in place, just test with test light at the top of the fuse where the metal shows. This usually needs a helper to turn the key.

 

[TJBaker57]

As @budwich said....there should be a check engine light on. It would be where I circled in the attached picture. Ever seen that light on?

 

[Mooseman]

You should connect a code scanner and see if you can communicate with the PCM. Even a really basic one should tell you of there is no communication when you try to read codes. This could take us in a whole new direction.

 

[MBS1994]

confirm that this is a picture of the dash with the key in ON only. IF so, your problem is that the PCM is not happy as there should be a check engine light on when your key is in "ON" and the engine not running. You need to ensure that the proper voltages are appearing as per the posted diagrams... both at the ignition switch and at the PCM.

The first post of this thread doesn't give one a warm feeling about the ignition (install or otherwise) as turning the ignition switch without a key is not likely to produce a good result at any time. :-(

Definitely no check engine light but I have seen it in the past for varying small codes. It shouldn't have a check engine light though where the battery was dead since that clears the ecu till it cycles right? So test light probably needs to be put aside right since it reads between 6 and 12 volts but doesn't tell me an exact?