Sway Bar Links Clunking

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I have moogs on my truck. Good stuff.

I do have to brag a little bit though - I bought my mounts in 2010 when I got my truck, from Amazon, for some stupid crazy sale price of something like $5-10 each :wootwoot:
 

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
DenaliHD66 said:
[SOLVED]

Upper strut mounts were bad. Ordering new ones and getting them installed next week.

Gonna buy these MOOG ones, except from Amazon where they are $36.94 each, unless someone knows of a better set around to get?

Moog K6702 Shock and Strut Mount | Auto Parts Warehouse

Not solved. Replaced the strut mounts today with the Moog's. The old ones were completely shot, but the same clunk going on. I'm starting to think the poly bushings for the front sway bar that came with my Hotchkiss sway bar were too big for my front bar. Gonna get the mechanics to put some special tape around the bar where the bushings are and see if that solves the problem.
 

TB2k4

Member
Dec 4, 2011
134
Howdy all, long time. Been having a problem with a rear end clank recently. Started about 1 week ago. Driven through a blizzard and taken the truck 4 hours up north now but have a better understanding of when the noise occurs... The clank only comes with rocking or anything that requires some sort of suspension action (backing out of the driveway, uneven terrain, pothole). Can I get a diagnosis?
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Sway bar end links and mounting brackets, shock mounting bolts (not to likely), loose spare tire and pan hard bar are all possibilities.
The first two are the usual suspects.
 

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
Haven't gotten around to it but I suspect the sway bar bushings. I've already replaced everything else. Haven't examined pan hard bar, but the bulk of the noise comes from up front anyway..
 

Denali n DOO

Member
May 22, 2012
5,596
DenaliHD66 said:
Haven't gotten around to it but I suspect the sway bar bushings. I've already replaced everything else. Haven't examined pan hard bar, but the bulk of the noise comes from up front anyway..

I'm having a hard time to find that horrible clunk that seems to be getting worse. I spent a couple hours yesterday looking. I had the back and front up on ramps and end links all seem tight, then jacked up each front side and ball joints seem okay. The only thing I thought might not be right is the upper control arm bolts, can someone tell me if there should be play (front to back) on the upper control arm or should that be super tight? Any advise on other stuff to look at? What is a panhard bar?
 

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
Denali n DOO said:
I'm having a hard time to find that horrible clunk that seems to be getting worse. I spent a couple hours yesterday looking. I had the back and front up on ramps and end links all seem tight, then jacked up each front side and ball joints seem okay. The only thing I thought might not be right is the upper control arm bolts, can someone tell me if there should be play (front to back) on the upper control arm or should that be super tight? Any advise on other stuff to look at? What is a panhard bar?

My noises all occurred at the same time, and there is a right/left/front/back noise. The front two are most distinctive. If the left front wheel hits a bump, that side clunks, and vice versa with right side. For both control arms to go bad at the same time is kinda rare, and it alternates (the clunk noise) so that's why I think the sway bar bushings (came with Hotchkiss sway bar). Apparently some front sway bars on our trucks are different sizes, even though I ordered the one specific to my model and year.

Panhard bar is the bar that keeps the rear axle from moving forward and backward (coil spring setup). Google it, its a universal setup.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
The pan hard bar keeps the rear wheel centered side to side.

The rear upper and lower control arms keep the axle centered in the wheel well.
 

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
Who knows the size for the 2004 Envoy XL front stabilizer bar? I'm wondering when I got my hotchkiss sway bar set with front bushings if it maybe came with a different size. I know there are a few different sizes of front sway bars that came with our trucks.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
If you don't have a set of the Harbor Freight $15 digital calipers, just use metric wrenches as diameter gauges.
 

LikeEnvoy

Member
Apr 17, 2012
128
Winnipeg, MB
My 2007 Envoy (164000km) started a 'clanking' or 'clonking' sound a few months ago; from the rear, when going over bumps or rough roads. It was nice and quiet before then.
It sounds a bit like two wine bottles clonking together, or two axle stands knocking together; also, when I jack up a rear wheel and pull in and out, that end-play sounds similar - tubular steel clonking. It's a single clank on a simple bump but on rough roads (like most of this town) usually several clanks as if several bottles are clanking together in a box
However, others on forums have already said the end play is normal so I passed that over. Is this sound I describe what the sway bar bushes or links sound like?

I tried by hand to move all links, shocks, sway bar, stabiliser arms etc. and found no free play and could not reproduce the sound (except by pulling the wheel in and out as above).

The sway bar does move side to side slightly in its bushings if I give it a hefty pull/ push but does not reproduce the clonking axle-stand sound.

The end links can be rotated slightly with a firm hand but are not really loose and I cannot make a clonk or knock like this.
 

LikeEnvoy

Member
Apr 17, 2012
128
Winnipeg, MB
Just saw this topic: http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/10778-rear-clanging-still-after-rear-endlinks-and-bushings-replaced/
and that description of the sound is probably similar to my description- so I will assume my problem is like these. I will try sway bar bushings at rear first, then front (others seem to find front causes a lot of the problem too).
If still noisy then I will try end links, even though I can't get these to clank when I move them by hand.
I also noted the points about panghard bar bolts, although nothing seems to move with my hand when I am under there.

Very interesting about the Bilstein shocks too- RE BuckeyeEvan's statement: "...I too lost the sway going into my driveway and bounce over highway bumps" i n (http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/11156-ride-improvement/) I do notice a sway when I enter the driveway, and when turning on some bad roads at higher speeds It seems to skip sideways across thwe road- very unnerving. So I will keep the Bilsteins in mind. Thanks to all who have posted in these threads.
 

LikeEnvoy

Member
Apr 17, 2012
128
Winnipeg, MB
Got the bushings today from Napa auto parts. I went prepared and measured the front bar (1.34" on my Envoy SLE 4x4 4.2 front sway bar) but they only had one part number for the front bushings anyway (265-2632). The rear ones were 265-2378.
May try to fit them today as the temperature has gone up to -3°C.
 
Apr 26, 2014
53
I had phantom clicking and popping noises from my suspension. After trying many things I retorqued the trans, crossmember bolts -all of them. It fixed the noise and it was free.
 

warriorpluto

Member
Apr 12, 2012
215
I know this is an old thread, but my truck has started clunking like an old hoopty over small bumps.I'm going to order the smaxx end links. Anyone have a part number for the sway bar bushings? What other bushings need to be replaced back there besides those?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Moog PN is K200768, AC Delco is 45G0903.

I never have replaced my bar bushings actually, just the end links.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
There are different sizes for the bushings. IIRC, there are 14 mm and 16 mm sway bars. Filling in your trucks info may help.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
14mm and 16mm were the tie rods in the front. Sway bars didn't change any.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
You're right about the 14 mm and 16 mm being for the tie rods, but there are 2 different sizes listed for sway-bars on RockAuto for the 2003 Envoy. 1.72" and 1.80" diameter.
 

rolix4

Member
May 26, 2015
1
Hey guys, new to the GMTNation forums.

My question is which brand of end links have worked best for everyone? I plan on replacing them on my 02' TB with 156,000 ASAP.
Ive read many mixed reviews, so I'm in a pickle on which ones to purchase! :no: :confused:
Thanks in advance guys!
 

Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
rolix4 said:
Hey guys, new to the GMTNation forums.

My question is which brand of end links have worked best for everyone? I plan on replacing them on my 02' TB with 156,000 ASAP.
Ive read many mixed reviews, so I'm in a pickle on which ones to purchase! :no: :confused:
Thanks in advance guys!
I used the moog links. They're easier to remove next time since they have a regular nut to hold them instead of an Allen key. Plus grease fittings. Hopefully keeping them greased will help the poor design.
 
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Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,035
I had SMAXX on the rear for about 5 years but they both broke within a couple of weeks of each other. I changed them out for MOOG's because of the grease nipple. I'm going to do the two fronts in the next couple of weeks with MOOG's as well.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I've had Moog and also have had another brand. Honestly the factory ones lasted the longest. I've only gotten a couple years tops out of replacements before they started rattling again.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,900
Ottawa, ON
Only problem with the stock ACDelco is that damn Allen key hole setup on the end. It just strips when taking them off. I have yet to find any aftermarket one that lasts more than a couple of years.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
OEM links are one time use I figure. If you have to take them off you just have to cut them.

Whoever thought using allen keys on the end of threaded shafts like the links and the top of shocks needs to be shot as that setup just totally sucks!
 
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Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,900
Ottawa, ON
I personally don't like the Moogs because they don't positively seal the boot to the body, same as all their other suspension and steering components.
 

Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
Mooseman said:
I personally don't like the Moogs because they don't positively seal the boot to the body, same as all their other suspension and steering components.
TRW is the only one I remember that did that effectively. Haven't seen TRW chassis parts in years though. Not really a big deal if you grease regularly though. Then the old dirty broke down grease has a way out of the joint. Even back in the day when OE parts were greaseable they weren't sealed tight for that reason. Least that what my father told me years ago. He's been a mechanic since the 60's. I've been greasing and working on them since the 70's.

I've personally had good experience with Moog over the years. As well as TRW and NAPA chassis. Mevotech too, what little I've used of theirs. Just put one of their hubs in my rainier a couple weeks ago we'll see how it does.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,900
Ottawa, ON
Mevotech is cheap Chinese junk IMHO. Had a tie rod out of the box with a crack and lower ball joints with boots that wouldn't stay put. Called them, they didn't care, even the crack.
 

Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
Mooseman said:
Mevotech is cheap Chinese junk IMHO. Had a tie rod out of the box with a crack and lower ball joints with boots that wouldn't stay put. Called them, they didn't care, even the crack.
Had their LCA's and hubs on a Malibu we used to have. Had no issues. Got lucky I guess.
 

LikeEnvoy

Member
Apr 17, 2012
128
Winnipeg, MB
Update on my clunking from the rear... by the time spring came along it went quieter and smoother on most roads so I left it alone.
As soon as Fall came around the noises started again! Darn it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,900
Ottawa, ON
Time to get wrenching...
 

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